My First DIY Speaker

kcnanand

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Punjab
My very first DIY mini floor standing speaker attempt. Based on the Alto II design i found on the Internet. Speaker cabinet size 800x230x240, 19mm MDF. 30L. 45Hz. crossover 2500 hz.
Using Peerless Fabrikkerne TL25SN Tweeter and SM16IH-8 6.5 inch woofer. Wanted to use the S16NI-8 but was shipped the SM16IH so settled for that.
Did the cutting gluing shaping etc on my own.

Cutting the panels on Circular saw diy table saw :p


Jenga block for initial support :D


Speaker cutout


Minimal bracing. The cabinet is small enough to not need much bracing.


Carbon fiber pattern vinyl for the front


Noob attempt at the crossover. Values from various online sites. with speaker impedance and L Pad. The tweeter polarity is inverted.


First Run. The Port is 45mm dia and 4cm length. A pillow worth of stuffing in each box


Wood vinyl etc. Adjustable screws at the speaker bottom and resting on rubber pad.


The setup sounds good with the SM16IH providing very open midrange and the box providing the Bass. Does really well with the Country, Rock and Classical genres that i listen to. :)
 
The speaker cabinet design. My speaker depth was 240 instead of 230.


The crossover design i made for the S16NI-8 but now using on the SM16IH-8. The values was rounded off to the closest parts i can find on the market. I cannot make out any need for changing during trials so stuck to it.
 
They are looking Beautiful, Your hard work and dedication towards DIY can be seen in those Pics. And trust me if this is your first attempt then you have done it very well.

Next time please take care on the Edges. By looking at the Photos i think the edges are rounded with the help of Planer & then sanding it to make a round, OR if they are rounded by Router then you need a little Practice to use your tool.

Enjoy your listening.
 
They are looking Beautiful, Your hard work and dedication towards DIY can be seen in those Pics. And trust me if this is your first attempt then you have done it very well.
Next time please take care on the Edges. By looking at the Photos i think the edges are rounded with the help of Planer & then sanding it to make a round, OR if they are rounded by Router then you need a little Practice to use your tool.
Enjoy your listening.

Thanks. the router plunge mechanism was rough due to dust and put a small dent on the edge. so i planed it and sanded the rest.

Beautiful speakers! Congratulations! Very advanced DIY workshop by the standard of our country.

terrific mate...loved your effort

Great Excellent Build >>>>>>>>>>

Thanks for the encouragement. :)
 
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The crossover design i made for the S16NI-8 but now using on the SM16IH-8. The values was rounded off to the closest parts i can find on the market. I cannot make out any need for changing during trials so stuck to it.

Looks like Xover pro is it? how accurate it is?
 
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the s16IH is about 3 dB less sensitive right, so did you adjust the L pad for the tweeter?
or was it added because of it ? (because I dont see any BSC)
 
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@kcnanand Great job mate ! Very skillful carpentry as well.

I am also planning to build a bookshelf using SM161H peerless 6.5" woofer and a ND25FA dayton 1" tweeter.

I am unable to calculate the volume for a ported box since Vas is not mentioned for SM161H in the datasheet.



Can someone help ?
 
Clean and good work / finish.

I was wondering if this is a vented enclosure? I would suggest to remove the port (if possible) and stuff the entire box lightly. This could make a good mass loaded TL as the port is at the bottom. Just a suggestion if you would like to experiment with the lows & mids.
 
hi
kcnanand.

very neatly build,this cannot be called a first time diy approach.

few queries of mine, since me to building boxes for my 7.1 ht,it will be my
first diy approach.

1. where you bought your working tools, table saw,router (black & decker)
planer,sander etc,, what price.
2. by cutting the mdf sheets with table saw does the mdf sheets need planning on the cut side.
3. how did you calculate the inner diameter of the driver for cut out.
4. router bits used.
5. table fence how did you construct and set it and also what table size you have.
6. what type of clamps used to hold the mdf sheets
7. circular jig i can see the plywood sheet being used,how do you set the depth of the router bit to flush mount and also marking the center point on the jig.

thanks.
rajesh.
 
the s16IH is about 3 dB less sensitive right, so did you adjust the L pad for the tweeter?
or was it added because of it ? (because I dont see any BSC)

Used 1ohm in series and 7.4 Ohm in parallel. Think i will have to remove the old crossover pic and upload the one i finally used.

@kcnanand Great job mate ! Very skillful carpentry as well.
I am also planning to build a bookshelf using SM161H peerless 6.5" woofer and a ND25FA dayton 1" tweeter.
I am unable to calculate the volume for a ported box since Vas is not mentioned for SM161H in the datasheet.

Can someone help ?


Thanks. I did not calculate Vas. Just went with the Alto II design specifications that i found when searching google for a mini tower design for 6.5 inch speaker. There is a Alto I design in the website for a ported book shelf.
[url]http://www.visaton.de/en/bauvorschlaege/2_wege/altoi/index.html


Looking superb. Very elegant indeed. Congratulations!

Thank you.

Clean and good work / finish.

I was wondering if this is a vented enclosure? I would suggest to remove the port (if possible) and stuff the entire box lightly. This could make a good mass loaded TL as the port is at the bottom. Just a suggestion if you would like to experiment with the lows & mids.

Thanks Mr Hari Iyer. Will certainly try that. have saved the cutoffs that will fit perfectly inside the port tube.
Stuff the entire box... do i leave some space directly behind the woofer? I would like to tighten up the bass if possible. I do get a bit of boominess at volume. the room is slightly large (L-shape sitting+dining)
Suggestions welcome.

hi
kcnanand.

very neatly build,this cannot be called a first time diy approach.

few queries of mine, since me to building boxes for my 7.1 ht,it will be my
first diy approach.

1. where you bought your working tools, table saw,router (black & decker)
planer,sander etc,, what price.
2. by cutting the mdf sheets with table saw does the mdf sheets need planning on the cut side.
3. how did you calculate the inner diameter of the driver for cut out.
4. router bits used.
5. table fence how did you construct and set it and also what table size you have.
6. what type of clamps used to hold the mdf sheets
7. circular jig i can see the plywood sheet being used,how do you set the depth of the router bit to flush mount and also marking the center point on the jig.
thanks.
rajesh.

Thanks Rajesh.
I am a compulsive tinkerer and have purchased these items over a period of time from local market and also online. (Tolexo dot com/amazon dot in)
Table saw+fence is diy with circular saw.
Please check PM for other details.
 
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Thanks. I did not calculate Vas. Just went with the Alto II design specifications that i found when searching google for a mini tower design for 6.5 inch speaker. There is a Alto I design in the website for a ported book shelf.
ALTO I

Thanks for your suggestion. I was able to measure the Vas ~ 21 ltrs for SM16IH. But considering the Qts = .57, it would require a box volume Vb = 65 Ltrs which is way to big for a bookshelf speaker. I might go for some other woofer instead :)

Btw, the bonsai looks very pretty too :clapping:
 
Thanks Mr Hari Iyer. Will certainly try that. have saved the cutoffs that will fit perfectly inside the port tube.
Stuff the entire box... do i leave some space directly behind the woofer? I would like to tighten up the bass if possible. I do get a bit of boominess at volume. the room is slightly large (L-shape sitting+dining)
Suggestions welcome.

If you could let me know the height, width & breath could suggest you stuffing required. You actually should stuff more near the woofer and lighter when you go downwards and not other way round. You are not damping the fundamental freq but only the higher harmonics from 3rd onward. The even harmonics anyway will be at the closed end.
 
If you could let me know the height, width & breath could suggest you stuffing required. You actually should stuff more near the woofer and lighter when you go downwards and not other way round. You are not damping the fundamental freq but only the higher harmonics from 3rd onward. The even harmonics anyway will be at the closed end.

Cabinet Internal dimensions = 800x190x204. around 30L volume.

Updated crossover for the speaker. SM16IH and TL25SN. Adjusted the Tweeter attenuation. Sounds more open and tweeter has become lively.


Input the values into xover software and got the following graph outputs


Stuffed some more damping and sealed up the box. no more tinkering :)

 
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