My Miniref amp

Abhinavas ,

A easy front can be done by fitting acrylic .
The holes you can make by melting small in size and round file .
you can get it screen printed for 150Rs too adding some labels
 
If you want to use acrylic, have it laser cut. Make proper design on Coreldraw, or even with pencil-paper, including exact dimensions, and letterings. If you want to use special fonts which are not part of the regular Windows font set, take that font with you and ask the laser guy to install it on his computer (speaking from experience here:)).
 
Hi,

Received V1.04 Kit on last monday and posting the image of bare PCB. Later I'll post the image of LF02 module and updates on progress.

xx4lhni4d


4kbn1jql1
 
After receiving the kits, yesterday I manage to get some free time and soldered all the resistors and diodes except R3 & R53 (will soldered it later). Also L1 need to short.

Image of MiniRef V1.04 (With Resistors):
2v0bgc8.jpg


Also Posting Bare board as it was missing in my las post...

Image of MiniRef V1.04 (Top):
29zppn5.jpg


Image of MiniRef V1.04 (Bottom):
f28tg9.jpg
 
They should be perfect for a DIY HT amp

Thanks, they're suitable for 2-channel small bookshelf setups as well as multichannel HT setups (with 2, 3 or more 2-channel boards), except for the sub-, which can be an active sub- with built-in plate amp.
 
Here are a few pics of my miniref. When I built it a few months ago, I had an idea to use this old VCD Player. This cabinet has a few nostalgic memories . Those where the days when the chinese made look alikes of branded cd players.Looks like a bird nest inside, but works well.
Planning for a custom made professional AV reciever like cab in my future.

Excellent Job..,:clapping:
 
Hi

Ive completed the kit earlier last month and tested in a stock 8 ohms 6 YP Speaker with the source from my Galaxy Note 2 mobile. Sound was really awesome; its very clean and natural even with this kind of cheap driver. There was no noise or humming present even without the proper grounding (star grounding I guess).

Though there was some problem initially but rectified it based on the Linuxgurus suggestion. I really appreciate his support and guidance throughout the process and I would like to thanks Linuxguru for everything he has done for me.

Initially Ive ordered a non-premium kit, but destroyed it along with major components. Then again Ive ordered another premium kit and after listening to the accident he quoted me a lesser price without some components like TDA2050, Relay, Power Capacitors and some other small components which Ive saved from the previous kit.

But I was really surprised after receiving the kit as there was everything including a pair of LM1875 (except the relay). Initially I thought that it might be mistakenly packed with all these components which he wasnt supposed to send as Ive not paid him for that. But when I was conveyed that, he said it was intentionally packed with all those components, even he denied to receive any further amounts for those extra components. He had also sent me a good potentiometer with the kit as I was unable to source it locally.

Here are some pictures of the completed kit

5OeXLPe.jpg


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EdzJ3Ud.jpg


n5Kfrrc.jpg
 
Great pics of both the board and cabinet, and amazing work on the cabinet! The jointing, inserts, slots, rectangular cutouts, angular profiles, etc. are way beyond my capabilities with wood (at best, I can make a wood front panel with a few drilled holes). This will look great when varnished and a few metal knobs and switches are installed. There should not be a heat issue with MiniRef, since it's only Class-AB, 2x 20W maximum, and the metal bottom plate should be enough to take care of it.
 
Great pics of both the board and cabinet, and amazing work on the cabinet! The jointing, inserts, slots, rectangular cutouts, angular profiles, etc. are way beyond my capabilities with wood (at best, I can make a wood front panel with a few drilled holes). This will look great when varnished and a few metal knobs and switches are installed. There should not be a heat issue with MiniRef, since it's only Class-AB, 2x 20W maximum, and the metal bottom plate should be enough to take care of it.


Thanks Sir.... But it wasn't me... The entire work was executed by my carpenter. I've just given him the idea, made a rough plan, done the precise measurements and supervised the entire job as that was a totally new and unknown kind of job for him.

The bottom plate is a 1.5mm thin aluminium sheet pasted on a 6mm plywood.

And thanks again for your encouragement as you always do...
 
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Back panel plan:

Rzfpevj.jpg


Source Selector & Chanel Swaping:

KhyIm21.jpg


I've planned to use a simple DPDT switch for input selection (between 2 source); another DPDT switch to swap between the source signal (L&R) and also join all the signal ground together.

I've also need your suggestion for varnishing/polishing etc. Should I go for a natural finish or make it a bit darker i.e. wallnut type finish?

Regards
 
I would keep the left and right signal grounds separate if possible (it eliminates one small ground loop between the source and the amp, if kept separate). However, you can try combining them, and if there's no audible hum, it may well work fine.

Regarding the finish, I prefer the natural teak finish without staining. A coating of Sheelac or similar should suffice. Personal preferences vary, so YMMV.
 
I would keep the left and right signal grounds separate if possible (it eliminates one small ground loop between the source and the amp, if kept separate). However, you can try combining them, and if there's no audible hum, it may well work fine.

Thanks for your suggestion. Do I also need to seperate all the ground for Input 1 & 2! then it will be a dificult job with simple DPDT switch.

Regarding the finish, I prefer the natural teak finish without staining. A coating of Sheelac or similar should suffice. Personal preferences vary, so YMMV.

My personal preference is always natural finish. All my furnitures are also done with natural teak finish. But in this case i need to add some tint to the cabinet to match the top as both of them are not from the same sheet. So lets see what could be done...
 
Yes, the top is the perfect shade so you're right, you'll need to stain the rest a little. I love a walnut look. Make sure you sand the exterior surfaces a lot. Don't skimp on the sanding. You're very close to making a wonderful cabinet.
 
Yes, the top is the perfect shade so you're right, you'll need to stain the rest a little. I love a walnut look. Make sure you sand the exterior surfaces a lot. Don't skimp on the sanding. You're very close to making a wonderful cabinet.
Sure sir... I'll do my best. I've also planned to final polish with laquar e.g. Asian Paints' Touchwood etc.
 
Hi thekingstallion,

Nice Cabinet.. where did u get those 0.18J100 Caps were they locally available in your area? I also needed them for my Crescendo Amp. Can you PM me your cell no so that i can call you & discuss with you regarding few components.

Sadik Bhatkar
 
Wharfedale Linton Heritage Speakers in Red Mahogany finish at a Special Offer Price. BUY now before the price increase.
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