NHT - Tweeter repair

[keith_correa]

Can't seem to view the pics.

Fixed now. Sorry about that.

 

[reubensm]

Looks pretty generic, all you have to do is open up the 4 mount screws on the tweeter face plate and carefully separate the faceplate with dome, from the magnet assembly (assuming that your manufacturer has not glued these together, usually they are not glued). On separating these, you'll be able to view the voice coil and its connectors (please handle with nimble hands and be very careful). You can now run your checks as described by me earlier.

 

[keith_correa]

Looks pretty generic<snip>

What looks "generic"? The tweeter? The faceplate? The mounting?

 

[keith_correa]

Looks pretty generic, all you have to do is open up the 4 mount screws on the tweeter face plate and carefully separate the faceplate with dome, from the magnet assembly (assuming that your manufacturer has not glued these together, usually they are not glued). On separating these, you'll be able to view the voice coil and its connectors (please handle with nimble hands and be very careful). You can now run your checks as described by me earlier.

So instead of trying to pull the whole faceplate upwards are you saying that I should pull one side upwards so that the other opposite side is leveraged for pressure?

Should I expect the faceplate [with voice coil and the connectors] and the magnet assembly to come apart fully?

 

[reubensm]

What looks "generic"? The tweeter? The faceplate? The mounting?

The entire tweeter (which includes the face plate and mounting)

 

[reubensm]

So instead of trying to pull the whole faceplate upwards are you saying that I should pull one side upwards so that the other opposite side is leveraged for pressure?

Should I expect the faceplate [with voice coil and the connectors] and the magnet assembly to come apart fully?

Keep the magnet stationary and lift the faceplace (very carefully, do not attempt to pull if it is glued). Also while lifting the faceplace, do not lift one side or move it side-ways, lift the entire face plate, straight upward. The faceplate assembly will include the dome, voicecoil and connectors.

 

[keith_correa]

Keep the magnet stationary and lift the faceplace (very carefully, do not attempt to pull if it is glued). Also while lifting the faceplace, do not lift one side or move it side-ways, lift the entire face plate, straight upward. The faceplate assembly will include the dome, voicecoil and connectors.

Thanks! Can you then explain what the upward and downward arrows in your pic meant? Was it to indicate that the faceplate [upwards] would be separated from the magnet assembly [downwards]?

 

[keith_correa]

The entire tweeter (which includes the face plate and mounting)

What does a "non generic" dome tweeter look like? Curious.

 

[GeorgeO]

This is how a typical dome tweeter looks like-generic look of a dome..

 

[reubensm]

What does a "non generic" dome tweeter look like? Curious.

Here are some examples of the standard (generic) types and the non standard types. Was referring to the differences in housing and mounting, not the concept and logic of design and functionality.

 

[reubensm]

Also, while working with such components, its not a bad idea to use a star screw driver with a new head and let it enter your speaker screw head through a soft piece of cloth (wrap this around the screw driver shaft, covering the head). Also ensure that the driver head does not slip in/over the screw head. This will ensure that the cosmetic aspect of your speakers will be taken care off (which in my opinion is also very important)

 

[keith_correa]

Here are some examples of the standard (generic) types and the non standard types. Was referring to the differences in housing and mounting, not the concept and logic of design and functionality.

Then, I consider myself lucky that my tweeter is "generic". Imagine my plight if it was not generic like that pic you posted. Ugh!!!

 

[keith_correa]

Also, while working with such components, its not a bad idea to use a star screw driver with a new head and let it enter your speaker screw heads through a soft piece of cloth. Also ensure that the driver head does not slip in the screw heads. This will ensure that the cosmetic aspect of your speakers will be taken care off (which in my opinion is also very important)

Hey - "Great minds think..."!!! Before coming in to work, at home, I already opened one screw the same way you described ["let it enter your speaker screw heads through a soft piece of cloth"]. But then it was time to leave for work so the deflowering of the tweeter will be done tonight.

 

[reubensm]

Hey - "Great minds think..."!!! Before coming in to work, at home, I already opened one screw the same way you described ["let it enter your speaker screw heads through a soft piece of cloth"]. But then it was time to leave for work so the deflowering of the tweeter will be done tonight.

All the very best, lets hope that the voice coil is not burnt. If it is not, you'll have an excellent chance of saving your tweeter (assuming your soldering skills are top-notch. I've been using a soldering iron since I was in standard IV).

 

[keith_correa]

All the very best, lets hope that the voice coil is not burnt. If it is not, you'll have an excellent chance of saving your tweeter (assuming your soldering skills are top-notch. I've been using a soldering iron since I was in standard IV).

Then if I need soldering work on this, my tweeter is going to be shipped to Trivandrum

 

[reubensm]

Thanks! Can you then explain what the upward and downward arrows in your pic meant? Was it to indicate that the faceplate [upwards] would be separated from the magnet assembly [downwards]?

Yes, Faceplate upward, magnet assembly can be held stationary

 

[reubensm]

Then if I need soldering work on this, my tweeter is going to be shipped to Trivandrum

You're very welcome Keith

 

[GeorgeO]

Look at this link and click on a few of the tweeters you will get more info. I thought I needed to get a voice coil on a ScanSpeak D2905/9500 and researched it carefully-Mark at Meniscus Audio had repiared two of my SS mids. In the event it was a loose contact and it making sweet music for me.

In my case this is what I read from their site:

Description
Replacement voice coil for the Scan Speak, D2905/9300 or 9500 tweeter.

They are easily replaced by first removing the face plate screws and exposing the dome. Remove the plastic trim ring and gasket. Next, de solder the lead wire from the terminals and then pry out the bad coil / dome assembly. Replace with the new dome/coil assebly, re solder, and replace the plastic trim ring and gasket before re attaching the front plate.

If you don't feel comfortable doing this repair, send it to us and we will charge just for the coil and return shipping.

 

[GeorgeO]

Sorry here's the link:

DIY Speaker Components | Replacement Speakers | and Speaker kits from Meniscus Audio Group

 

[reubensm]

This is what you are likely to see on the other side of the face plate once you separate it from the magnet assembly. The inside of the dome is clearly visible in this photograph.