Nikon D5100 SLR or Nikon P500 Bridge

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Hi Sam,

Before you make the purchase, please get hold of a dslr from a friend or rent it for few days. Since you already know what a point and shoot can do, you can easily identify why a dslr scores over a typical point and shoot. Even-if you use the dslr in Auto mode, you will come to know the differences in speed and quality. Don't just fall for the zoom value as others are suggesting here as it doesn't have much significance in slr world.
We have rental services in Bangalore Photography Equipment Rentals - Toehold | Travel & Photography, not sure what you have in Delhi.

Thanks
 
sam9s;314626 ... [B said:
@anm[/B] I know what aperture literally mean ... :D, What I meant was the figures that discribe it and how do you come to know what figure lense to apply under what conditions ...:)


Hi Sam,

The f number is the ratio of the maximum diameter of the aperture of the lens to its focal length. A maximum aperture diameter of 25 mm when applied to a 50 mm lens would mean a maximum aperture of f2 (or f 1:2). The f number or ratio is determined by dividing the maximum aperture i.e. 25 mm by the focal length i.e. 50 mm(1:25/50 which comes to 1:2). The reason why the f number or maximum aperture of zoom lenses varies is that the ratio of the maximum aperture diameter to focal length changes with change in the focal length.

Of course the aperture of the lens can be reduced or stopped down. The variation in the amount of light passing through is in geometrical proportion to the f number. In the series of apertures or f numbers 1, 1.4, 2, 2.8, 4, 5.6 etc. the amount of light is halved with each increase in f number.

I hope I have been able to throw some light on the vexed issue of f numbers.

Regards.
 
^^ Man I hope you know whom you are suggesting ... Most of the things you said were french for me ... :D ......

@anm I know what aperture literally mean ... :D, What I meant was the figures that discribe it and how do you come to know what figure lense to apply under what conditions ...:)

Speedlight (flash)..just point the flash to white ceiling and you get beautifully lit pictures.

120520_121.jpg

My daughter's dora kitchen..
ry%3D400

HDR - Same scene with multiple exposure merged so that the shadows get enough light
hdr-8.jpg


Polarized filter - Cuts off reflection
polarized3.jpg


ND Filter (Neutral Density) - Helps you to avoid underexposing landscape when the sky is bright.
220px-1000x_ND-Filter.jpg


Note: Except the Dora kitchen picture..the rest is not mine.. :eek:hyeah:
 
man ?? i saw this thread now...... comparing a D5100 to nikon P500.
well first to start with..
the top notch SUPERZOOM cannot match the quality of the basic DSLR. (as mentioned) the sensor is like puny in front of dslr. lesser details.
second. P500 seriously ??? the worst of all superzooms of 2010..
you look for a P&S of 2011.. look forward for FUJI HS20, SONY HX100v , Pana FZ 47 or the old FZ-40 , FUJI X-S1, pana FZ-150
all of em might not be 32x but till whatever zoom they go they are pretty sharp. you would not want a 810 mm zoom will blurry pics/hazy pics.
sony's and fujinon lens did an amazing job getting the clarity even to the far end.
i did not included canon in the superzoom list for the colour ..purple fringing.

P500 hell no..

720p .. all the cams mentioned can do 1080p and few of them even high speed movies. and are around 20-25k you save 15k (get yourself a cpl of filters and a good ball head tripod)
now coming to dslr.
d5100 as mentioned carries the same sensor as the d7000 thats one hell of a camera.
if you look forward for a decent 8x10 print and no pixel peeping. geT yourself a p&S . (condition 1 )
you will be using the camera on auto settings.
dslr (dead investment )
get a sony or panny (fuji excluded ) works best with manual modes.auto is decent but does not uses the complete capacity of the camera.
you want DOF (depth of field)
you can get a fraction of those amazing photos with max tweaking on a P&S.
get a dslr with a prime lens 1.8 and you have all of em.
you want loads of zoom.
dont even think bout dslr if you wanna keep that 40k intact for the next few years.
you want to try astrophotography with moving stars and like slow shutter night shots.
get a dslr.
if people in the family will be using it too... get a P&S.
as D5100 is not weather sealed you gotta be cautious about the handling.
lens are delicate. sensor gets dust or moisture and there you go for a service.

regarding the aperture question.. the more the aperture will open the shorter the number gets. you can get wide lens of say 18mm with aperture 1.8 and that will give you good DOF.

for landscape photos you would need anything between 4.5- 16
depending on the light and situation.

this is all that came to my head as of now. will add more if something comes soon.
i do not own a dslr though but i have used quite a few of them.
adding are few pics and experiments done with a fz-40 and my HS20.

Oh man is p500 that bad, I have used Nikon L120 thats the smaller brother of P500 and I found it to be pretty good, hence the decission. But you people are the boss in this field so I am gonna start readin on FUJI HS20, Sony I dont like.

HS20 is 30x which still is pretty good. Gonna read more on it. Thanks for suggesting these.

For DSLR .... I am not gonna take out prints at all. I view all my images on my 47" LCD or my 24" DELL monitor. No prints at all.......or may be a couple of my kid when he get his new room... :D, thats it .... But in general no prints only viewing would be on my 47" LCD.

Auto settings .... " well depends on the situation, like in Bdays, marriages, general scenarios, where you dont have time to keep changing settings.

Manual Settings .... while holiday trips, family trips, landscapes etc , I can try manual settings as I will have all the time I need.

Out of the two former would be more common and regular I suppose.

DOF I am ok even if I get fraction of it, I dont want professional looking DOFss

No astrophotography at all, but yes I do love to take snaps under moon light, or street lights. natural photos

No one from the family would be using it except me....

Now what do you say .... looks like Bridge should be the right choice.

Though I will give a thorough reading for the models you have suggested, if you have to choose, which one will it be between FUJI HS20 and FZ-47 ..??

Thanks again for an actual worthy suggestion .... :)
 
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fs40slowshutter.jpg

By theironhorse at 2011-12-05 slow shutter with fz-40

fuji1.jpg

By theironhorse at 2011-12-05 fast shutter with HS20 fuji

fuji2.jpg

By theironhorse at 2011-12-05 low light with HS-20 handheld but with noise..


fuji3i.jpg

By theironhorse at 2011-12-05 lil DOF with fuji HS-20 simple formuls. zoom in and focus.. else zoom pretty close and use macro.

slowest.jpg

By theironhorse at 2011-12-05 slow shutter with FZ40



i have posted these images so you can get the idea of capacity of a superzoom bridge camera. these were experimental shots done by me with diffrent camera
just to see the low light performance and diffrent modes when handheld...


the slow shutter were done on the roof of the car.
 
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i can post more examples with better DOF from a superzoom but that needs tweaking if you want to acheive the target but by no means assume that you can get the BOKEH (japanese word for shallow ) effect that beautifully from the P&S .. why ? smaller sensor and aperture are the main reason. i am adding more pics for the zoom so you can get the idea of the zoom of these lenses.... few moon shots from hs-20 and FZ-40.


again by no means i am trying to deviate you decision but i would always want you to get somethin that you will be able to utilize completely and save some cash if possible.


again as suggested borrow camera from friends, relatives p&s and dslr if any and give them a hands -on.

another important thing that people always forget is to get the camera in your hand and check how it feels if you are comfortable with it or not..

you get the best camera but it feels small or big or uncomfortale in your hand.. you would never get the desired results.


moon shots HS-20.. - Steve's Digicams Forums these are the moon shots by me HS-20 handheld.


birds around - a set on Flickr few evening shots for reference. brids in action.

Vizag n aruku - a set on Flickr daylight pics by HS-20.. check the beach pics and good colour reproduced. few pics are dark as i was using a CPL (circular polarizer) can be corrected later.


oh by the way.. thats me ... http://www.flickr.com/photos/theironhorse99/6005234348/in/set-72157627338445228


http://www.flickr.com/photos/theironhorse99/6001048613/in/set-72157627338445228 low light with tripod in cave. 2 sec shutter.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/theironhorse99/6001738934/in/set-72157627338445228 out of camera..no edit. must see for fuji fans.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/theironhorse99/6001738782/in/set-72157627338445228


rest if you think that you will go ahead and jump into photography and give it sometime every weekend then go for a DSLR. if its gonna be used only for trip photos and once in a while do not make it shine on the shelf.

20-25k you can get the best of superzoom + rest 15k use on the following.

add a good camera bag (novapro/tamrac/crumpler) 16/32GB class 10 high speed card (maybe eye-fi for wireless transfer) a good ball head aluminium tripod.
cpl/infra-red/uv filter. and a set of eneloop batteries if the camera takes AA/AAA.
if you want more reach.. get a oly TCON 1.7x in the end for the extremes...
 
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Oh man is p500 that bad, I have used Nikon L120 thats the smaller brother of P500 and I found it to be pretty good, hence the decission. But you people are the boss in this field so I am gonna start readin on FUJI HS20, Sony I dont like.

Now what do you say .... looks like Bridge should be the right choice.

Though I will give a thorough reading for the models you have suggested, if you have to choose, which one will it be between FUJI HS20 and FZ-47 ..??

Thanks again for an actual worthy suggestion .... :)


am not a sony fan either but sony is really surprising the world these days. hx100v has really caught the attention and their dslr's have been declared the best of this year, guess the a77. alpda dslr.

again for the question.. between fz-47 and hs20.

i use hs-20 and fz-40. day light pics at pixel level. hs-20 is a tad better.
night pics again HS20 has got more capable hardware but at auto mode its a tad lower than fz-40 but thats only in auto mode.

fz-40 can do 1/2000 fastest and hs20 does 1/4000 fastest.

hs-20 does 30 sec slowest and fs-40 does guess 16 sec or around same.

fz40 is a CCD based cam and HS20 is CMOS similar as dslr but smaller.

now i like the HS20 more for experimentation. if no time just snap / auto users/friends/family. hand them the fz and they will be happy.


as far as review goes fz-47 has been performing better than the renowned brother fz-40..

another issue... i had to wait for 3 months for the HS20 to get to india after its world wide release but i got warranty..

the latest model panasonic india will have will be a fz38 (2009 model) for 29k

while fz40 from ebay shud be around 19k

fz47k 23k..

fuji hs20 for 20k so for pana dont even waste ur time trying it at panasonic or any other shop... order online..

for fuji yes its available on shops..

sony again 20k..

canon sx40HS... big brother of sx30is.. 35x zoom.. 26k .. but canon superzoom i have mentioned the problem.. colour bleed at telephoto and purple fringing.
 
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Hi sam...
There are only two simple options.... If you want best quality images and ready to spend more on lens go for DSLR (like D5100, D7000, D700 etc.,.) If your budget is restricted, go for SLR-like bridge camera (like P500, Fuji X-S1, Canon SX 40 HS etc.,). I'm using D7000 with 18-200 VR II lens and Sigma 105mm f2.8 Macro. My hobby is nature/wildlife photography. My first lens was Sigma 170-500 with D70 and later on changed to Nikon D200 with 80-400 VR lens and not satisfied with the lens and sold my entire kit and upgraded to D7000. Planing to buy my dream lens 300mm f2.8 VR (may cost 2.8 lakhs !!! :eek:).
shashi
 
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It looks like your mind is made up, but I will throw in my two cents because I was in the same boat as you a few months ago, and got to a point where the technical details started drowning me.

My sincere suggestion: Please get an entry level budget DSLR unless you want to do street photography. Like you, I wanted to take good low light photographs, and the only combination that works at this price point is an entry level DSLR with a bright (f1.8 or below) prime lens. In my case, I bought the Canon EOS 1000D which was on sale in Bangalore for about 23k. I later bought the f1.8 50mm prime lens for $100 from Amazon, bringing my total cost to under 30k.

I have got more joy and value out of this combo that I ever got from the couple of P&S I previously had. Why? The DSLR has enough dedicated buttons in the back that I can do trial and error and tweak settings in manual mode very easily. No, I haven't read any technical books and have only a smattering knowledge of photography fundamentals. But it doesn't matter. There are buttons to be pressed and dials to be turned, and the picture quality changes dramatically with different combinations of these settings. Plus, a DSLR has a large enough sensor which can be combined with a cheap prime lens to take better photographs than you would probably have ever taken.

After I got my DSLR and started playing around with it, it took me a few minutes to figure out how to get to the manual mode, and a few more minutes to figure out the various other buttons and dials like ISO, white balance, f-stop, and aperture speed. Most importantly, I figured out how to turn off the flash. After an hour of taking 30-40 shots of a plate of food with different trial and error settings, and with only a bulb providing lighting, I was finally able to take a good photograph without flash that looked like I had taken it in bright daylight. I cannot describe the sheer joy I felt at that moment. It felt like something I created with my own hands, not just pointing the camera at something and clicking a button. I pestered my wife to praise my photograph so many times that she thought I was going bananas (I was).

Sorry, I will never ever go back to a P&S again, and I don't see the point of buying a "prosumer" camera that costs as much as an entry level DSLR but doesn't allow us to change lenses or give full manual control. Then, it just becomes a tool or a utility, not something we can derive pleasure out of. Yes, many prosumer cameras come with extensive manual controls and some have great lenses but it still doesn't let us change the lenses and still has a small sensor which shuts the door on low light photography.

For example, in my case, the transformative moment was when I bought the prime lens. It was cheap enough that I was able to buy it on a whim, and the improved low light performance it gave was like night and day (pun unintended). Most superzoom bridge cameras or even most superzoom DSLR lenses such as the Canon 55-250 or 75-300 are great value for money ($200-$300) but also have other drawbacks that people overlook, like lack of dedicated buttons, and poor f-stop performance at both ends of the zoom which means that it lets in very little light so that it can zoom better. This may be perfectly okay for say wildlife photography in bright daylight but it won't work for me. Or at least, with my limited knowledge, I don't know how to make it work for me.

I want to caveat this by saying that I don't mean to offend anyone who has a different viewpoint. I'm speaking about cameras purely from my personal expectation and viewpoint and I'm far from being a knowledgeable user. I just wanted to say that it is not necessary to know too many technical details to have fun with the camera. An analogy I can think of is playing the guitar. We can learn the proper scales and music theory in the beginning but it is an intimidating way to learn and often, most casual hobbyists get disheartened. A better way, IMHO, is to simply learn the 3-4 most popular chords, and start playing songs, then learn the next 3-4 most popular chords, and so on.

Lastly, I had read about this, but am only now experiencing the fact that it is all about lenses. While a good body has many pro level features, real money should be spent on lenses not on the body. Even an entry level DSLR has "enough" features and full manual controls with dedicated buttons to keep casual hobbyists occupied. This single fact alone makes me recommend a DSLR over a fixed lens camera. It is also interesting to note that entry level DSLRs are nowadays cheaper than many superzoom fixed lens cameras.
 
again for the question.. between fz-47 and hs20.
i use hs-20 and fz-40. day ligh pics at pixel level. hs-20 is a tad better.
night pics again HS20 has got more capable hardware but at auto mode its a tad lower than fz-40 but thats only in auto mode.
fz-40 can do 1/2000 fastest and hs20 does 1/4000 fastest.
hs-20 does 30 sec slowest and fs-40 does guess 16 sec or around same.
fz40 is a CCD based cam and HS20 is CMOS similar as dslr but smaller.
now i like the HS20 more for experimentation. if no time just snap / auto users/friends/family. hand them the fz and they will be happy.
as far as review goes fz-47 has been performing better than the renowned brother fz-40..
another issue... i had to wait for 3 months for the HS20 to get to india after its world wide release but i got warranty..
the latest model panasonic india will have will be a fz38 (2009 model) for 29k
while fz40 from ebay shud be around 19k
fz47k 23k..
fuji hs20 for 20k so for pana dont even waste ur time trying it at panasonic or any other shop... order online..
for fuji yes its available on shops..
sony again 20k..
canon sx40HS... big brother of sx30is.. 35x zoom.. 26k .. but canon superzoom i have mentioned the problem.. colour bleed at telephoto and purple fringing.

looks like HS20 it is ..... check out this details review and lets see what you have to say about the cons ...

Fujifilm Finepix HS20 EXR Review - YouTube
 
It looks like your mind is made up, but I will throw in my two cents because I was in the same boat as you a few months ago, and got to a point where the technical details started drowning me.

My sincere suggestion: Please get an entry level budget DSLR unless you want to do street photography. Like you, I wanted to take good low light photographs, and the only combination that works at this price point is an entry level DSLR with a bright (f1.8 or below) prime lens. In my case, I bought the Canon EOS 1000D which was on sale in Bangalore for about 23k. I later bought the f1.8 50mm prime lens for $100 from Amazon, bringing my total cost to under 30k.

No asliarun ... I have not made up my mind believe me. else I would have stuck and gone with P500 specially when I had used the little bro L120. Along came theironhorse and change my openion and I was now interested in HS20, as the reviews looks promising. So its not like that. As I said I just need enough logical reason to convince me other wise, and then I read few reviews online and make up my mind.

mmmm so you say entry level DSLR is the one I should go for. Well then Nikon D3100 is the one I should go or you have any other model in mind.

HS20 is around 20-22K, D3100 with the basic kit will be 26-28K I guess. Also mind you I am not gonna take prints. I will only view pictures on my 47" LCD. I am about to have a trip abroad in Europe (which would include Rome n Zurich), so I am in need of a good camera that can provide excellent snaps on AUTO mode, coz during the trip I might not have time to change setting after every snap, and then retake it if not satisfactory, hope you are getting my point here.

If I do go with 3100 then I have to spend on lenses as well, another investment and on a decent flash like nikon, SB-40 right. Which lenses would you suggest to go for apart from stock kit 18-55mm. D3100 also has a poor 240K dot screen. (even L120 has 920K amazing LCD). I dont understand when they make these expensive DSLR why do they omit these few nitty gritties)

This is the review I followed.

Nikon D3100 - best entry-level DSLR? - YouTube

PS :: Also the reason I was interested in a super zoom was not because of being a peeping tom, but it really makes it easy to get closeups of faces and things, without being walking close to the subject .... (personal experience with L120)
 
Ok I went again on youtube and found, this pretty detailed review, images were really sharp and clear, however the reviewer kept mentioning taken from 14-24 (the band pics) and i assume he is referring to the lens. now thats what I dont like about DSLR. The default kit has 18-55 I guess (absolute no idea about the difference), but would I be changing lenses in my trip all along, that is something I would not like to do .... irritating. Plus look at the lens the reviewer has while taking hocky snaps, amazing still snaps, but then would I be carrying that huge lens snapped across my neck on a family trip with my kid and my wife ......... things to consider ....... whats your take.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RNLhqI0DKS8
 
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No asliarun ... I have not made up my mind believe me. else I would have stuck and gone with P500 specially when I had used the little bro L120. Along came theironhorse and change my openion and I was now interested in HS20, as the reviews looks promising. So its not like that. As I said I just need enough logical reason to convince me other wise, and then I read few reviews online and make up my mind.

mmmm so you say entry level DSLR is the one I should go for. Well then Nikon D3100 is the one I should go or you have any other model in mind.

HS20 is around 20-22K, D3100 with the basic kit will be 26-28K I guess. Also mind you I am not gonna take prints. I will only view pictures on my 47" LCD. I am about to have a trip abroad in Europe (which would include Rome n Zurich), so I am in need of a good camera that can provide excellent snaps on AUTO mode, coz during the trip I might not have time to change setting after every snap, and then retake it if not satisfactory, hope you are getting my point here.

If I do go with 3100 then I have to spend on lenses as well, another investment and on a decent flash like nikon, SB-40 right. Which lenses would you suggest to go for apart from stock kit 18-55mm. D3100 also has a poor 240K dot screen. (even L120 has 920K amazing LCD). I dont understand when they make these expensive DSLR why do they omit these few nitty gritties)

This is the review I followed.

Nikon D3100 - best entry-level DSLR? - YouTube

PS :: Also the reason I was interested in a super zoom was not because of being a peeping tom, but it really makes it easy to get closeups of faces and things, without being walking close to the subject .... (personal experience with L120)

Yes, I agree. The one thing that really sucks about a DSLR is its bulk which is why I said earlier too that it is not a good camera for street photography.

Considering your requirement, can I suggest a different alternative? Why don't you go for a micro four thirds system like the Panasonic Lumix DMC-GF2? Flipkart is selling it for about 30k. It gives you the best of both worlds - a large sensor combined with a compact body and with interchangeable lenses.

The way I see it, in the pre-digital days, people had 3 options, they either bought a cheapo plastic body P&S camera or they bought a bulky DSLR or a few bought "rangefinders". This category almost became exctinct but I have found this category fascinating - a Leica is a ultra high end example of a rangefinder. Rangefinders derive their name from a different focusing system, but I use the term to talk about cameras that had a compact body that was ideal for portability and for street photography, had interchangeable lenses (predominantly wide angle lenses though), and had full manual controls like a DSLR. Look at this old school Voigtlander Bessa for example which is a cheaper Leica. There is something incredibly appealing about these cameras.

Anyway, I digress. Although the micro four thirds like Panasonic GF2/GF1/GF3 or the Olympus Pen EPL1/2 etc and other mirrorless interchangeable lens cameras like the Sony NX5 or NX3 are not really rangefinders, their form factor and controls seem to suggest that they belong to the same category. I think this category of cameras are incredibly practical and enjoyable. The GF2 sells for about $400 in Amazon and there are a good number of lenses that you can buy separately like this 45-200. Note that this body will take any lens made for any micro four thirds system camera. The body and lenses are also much more compact compared to DSLRs.

To your point about the Nikon D3100, I don't know enough about Nikons except that in the entry level, they are far better than Canons. In my case, I only bought the Canon because it was incredibly cheap. In retrospect, I might have bought the Nikon D3100 myself. Yes, the display is low res but my camera has the same res and I haven't faced any problems. Please remember that with a DSLR, you will use the viewfinder to compose your shot and not the display screen. The display screen is only used to read/change settings and to see the picture after it was taken. For this purposes, this display is not suer awesome but it is sufficient and hasn't caused me any frustration so far.

Regarding lenses, from what little I know, Tamron makes some good budget lenses that also have a good zoom. Nikon makes lenses too of course, but they are usually more expensive but also usually better built.
 
Don't get lost in all the numbers jazz. below are few principles

1. Everything depends on the amount of light. the best shots are shot late afternoons.

2.Most people just click junk photos with no head or tail about the content,angles or what they want the pictures to tell.

3. All good pictures you see on the net are shot in good light. heck ! even my kodak will do that. Low light is very difficult, even if you use flash its not even close to studio quality even with a dslr. you may get frustrated.

4. SLRs may be cheap but their decent quality lens are very expensive and big sized. Buy only if you are keen in photography as a long term hobby.

5. Carrying bulky cameras like big super zooms and SLRs gets very inconvenient after the initial euphoria wears out, at social events people may giggle at you.

6. Recommendation : Buy a compact which has around 10x or more zoom with SLR type settings, you can experiment and learn everything about photography with these. Once you are comfortable...upgrade :clapping:
 
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^^ Why do you need super zooms in social events. I am very comfortable in using my 35mm f1.8 in social events. It all boils down to the interest. I had my share of super zooms..Canon S2IS, Panasonic Lumix ZS3..They are great for outdoors..very convenient to use. Very usable picture quality. It is in indoors and low light situations is where they perform terribly.
 
What thread size does the 35mm 1.8 lens use for filters?
I was planning on the D5100 myself. I already have 52mm CPL and ND filters for my Lumix.

--G0bble
 
What thread size does the 35mm 1.8 lens use for filters?
I was planning on the D5100 myself. I already have 52mm CPL and ND filters for my Lumix.

--G0bble
gobble :

these are dependent on mounts... canon and nikon and olympus had diffrent lens mounts that are proprietry .... incase you want to add another filter to the lens or hood.. nikon generally works on 58 mm threads.. canon are 62 and so..now you can either buy lens of nikkor for nikon, canon for canon or thirs party that makes lenses for compatible mount of nikon/sony/canon..

few companies are tamrom/samyang/lens baby and few more... tamron being the most wide spread...and cost effective too...




sam9s :

canon eos / rebel x-s were the base model with no video..

yeah.. you dont need video.. but sometimes u need it .. you reallly need it..

would you wanna plonk another 20k to get a decent camcorder and carry it along ?

yes entry level dslr : no doubt d3100... dont take the base kit..

just take the body...select your lens..

also i did not wanted you to look into only HS-20 thats one array of camera's.

you dont need bulk but a quality of dslr.. look for the micro hybrid camera.

panasonic gh1/gh2 and so.. around 40k ..

if you dont need zoom at all just discard the base lens. pick the body and get a fast prime lens and you are good... these are fxed lens..

by 18-55 you mean at widest angle its 18mm and telephoto it can go max 55mm.

these all calculations are done on basis of a 35 mm full frame sensor...

you can get a fast prime lens and pick a 70-200 nikkor VR for zoom. that should do the job..


another point to be noted.. most of the amazing pics posted over the net are not starights out of camera. they are taken in RAW...(format ) its a pure raw dump of sensor data . you get more editing options in layman language.

worked by photoshop /silkypix ..etc etc and then posted....


day time any camera would do good. any decent point and shoot can come close to a dslr.. low light pics ? yes you need a dslr but dont expect magic you need to fine tune it and use manual .. just that the hardware is more capable and you will be benefitted out of it...

my point is if you need stereo dont invest for a 5.1..


if you need a 5.1 go for it....
 
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