Shoes

[Nikhil]

It looks like I might be tumbling down another rabbit hole!

Just got my second pair from Oblum today.
Dark Green Longwing Bluchers in Argentinian crust leather.
Double sole with the tapered heel.

Had spoken to Oblum about this shoe for a while and it took some time to get the shape I had wanted. I had requested them for a more rounded shape similar to my earlier shoe. I just had to wait as they were busy with the festive season earlier. My shoes were ready for a fitting a couple of days ago following which I was keen on trying out either a dark green or navy blue colour. After having a chat with Tarun I went with the dark green. The fit and finish of this shoe is absolutely superb.

 

[Nikhil]

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[Nikhil]

Posting an update on my Bridlen Derby pair that I had posted about earlier.

Due to an unfortunate mistake I had ordered the pair a half size large. Bridlen was very gracious in getting the shoes resized at no charge. The resizing was done with the kind help of their team who have been a pleasure to deal with. Unfortunately for me though, the shoe design had proportions that created a poor fit in the resized shoe. There was an overly boxy toe shape and a heel area that was too tall and resulted in heel slip. I had pretty much resigned myself to having a botched up pair of shoes.

In the meantime I had made a couple of shoes with Oblum and decided to ask Tarun if he would consider relasting the pair for me. This pretty much meant redoing the entire shoe. To my surprise Tarun was happy to do it and since they already had my measurements it was a matter of about 7 - 10 days before I got the shoes back. To say that I am pleased with the result is an understatement.

Leaving some pictures on here of my relasted Derbys ...




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[Nikhil]

From the World Championship in Bespoke Shoemaking 2024

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[arj]

From the World Championship in Bespoke Shoemaking 2024

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I am curious if these shoes will fit the majority of Indian shoes. I have a friend in the shoe business ( was with Nike) who says our feet are wider especially around the toes due to most of us, across cultures/states walking barefoot a lot ( at home) unlike most other cultures where one is always wearing a shoe

 

[Analogous]

The new Indian shoe sizing system “Bha” will not only consider the length of the foot but also the width to create a more comfortable fit for individuals across various age groups.​

In December 2021, the Department for Promotion of Industry and Internal Trade (DPIIT) collaborated with the Central Leather Research Institute (CLRI) in Chennai to develop an ‘Indian footwear Sizing system’ that caters specifically to the needs of Indians. Recently, a pan-India survey was conducted to determine the system’s effectiveness, and a report was submitted to the Bureau of Indian Standards (BIS) for approval.
Proposed to be named ‘Bha’ (भ) to represent Bharat, the initiative aims to revolutionise the way footwear is manufactured in India. Bha is expected to replace the existing UK/European and US sizing systems by 2025

https://www.bis.gov.in/wp-content/uploads/2021/02/footwear-circular-modified-1.pdf

The assumption may be that all the diversity of foot shapes and sizes in the subcontinent can be standardised

 

[Nikhil]

I am curious if these shoes will fit the majority of Indian shoes. I have a friend in the shoe business ( was with Nike) who says our feet are wider especially around the toes due to most of us, across cultures/states walking barefoot a lot ( at home) unlike most other cultures where one is always wearing a shoe

The shoes on display are made for competition i.e. not necessarily wearable. Shoemakers sometimes make a special shoe for the show with exaggerated design features to display their workmanship. But bespoke shoes are just the thing for those with non standard shoe sizes.

This was a shoe made by Ken Kataoka for last year's competition - a very special showpiece.

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[Nikhil]

World Championships of Shoe Patina 2024 and World Championships of Shoemaking 2024​

Award Ceremony from the event held recently in London.

World Championships of Shoemaking 2024 - Call for Competition
(for a little background on what went on before hand that culminated in London)

World Championships of Shoemaking 2024 - Call for competition - Shoegazing.com

We now open up the fifth edition of the World Championships of Shoemaking, where the final takes place during the London Super Trunk Show on May 4 2024.

shoegazing.com

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[Nikhil]

The winner for 2024

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[Nikhil]

The Youtube channel of 2024 winner Ken Hishinuma is really good.
Here is his video documenting all the work and details that went into his effort.

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[Yogesh]

The assumption may be that all the diversity of foot shapes and sizes in the subcontinent can be standardised

But, won't the effort fetch better result than using standardized US/UK sizes for all the diversity of foot shapes and sizes in the subcontinent? At least standardization would be as per local diversity rather diversity of far off islands of altogether different human race.

 

[Analogous]

But, won't the effort fetch better result than using standardized US/UK sizes for all the diversity of foot shapes and sizes in the subcontinent? At least standardization would be as per local diversity rather diversity of far off islands of altogether different human race.

Possible.
I would wait for definitive evidence that the diverse and heavily mixed gene pool we have in the subcontinent has a standard foot shape and size variation justifying this. (Kashmir to KK, Kutch to Kohima and everything in between)
It’s a big decision that should not be based on beliefs or political considerations. I would wait to see the Pan India foot survey- study first if it’s not deemed a secret.
After all it’s about the comfort of our feet

 

[Yogesh]

The point here is we were happily using/suffering a standardized shoe sizes of alien lands of alien people. For all the diversity of foot shapes and sizes in the subcontinent,

Now if an effort is being made to switch to a standard measured on people from Kashmir to KK, Kutch to Kohima and everything in between, Wouldn't it be an switch to a more compatible system? Even considering the diversity, provided that in current system, this diversity is not considered at all.

 

[moktan]

Interesting video on some polishes and shoe creams …the shoeshine expert is passionate and knowledgeable …sadly from experience, I tend to agree with his critique of the Saphir pommadier shoe cream polish ..

 

[moktan]

A Justin Fitzpatrick single monk , called the Martel, which I bought this winter …

 

[sandeepsasi]

Tricker's Heath Golf Derby Shoes in Marron Antique, sized UK9.5 and purchased from Herring Shoes. Built on Tricker's 4497K last (bump toe version of the popular 4497S last), they come in Ridgeway Rubber Soles (manufactured by the Harboro Rubber Company, better known as Dainite after their studded rubber soles) and with all Tricker's goodies like calf leather uppers, storm welted construction , bellows tongue, etc. The last pair available was selling at 50% discount, so couldn't resist. Got them shipped to Dubai, UAE where the landing price is only 20% higher (after customs & CIF) compared to about 72% in India right now and a friend later hand-carried them to India. The shoe trees in the pics are made by Pro Premium Care.





With regards,
Sandeep Sasi

 

[Nikhil]

And I thought audio was a deep enough rabbit hole. Here is another pair of shoes made for me by Oblum Shoes, Hyderabad.

After getting into the bespoke shoe "hobby" (thanks to Moktan), I came to know of a very highly sought after leather type called Shell Cordovan. Google is your friend for those who would like to know more. In short it is the tissue that is located under the horse rump that is used in making a variety of items - shoes and wallets being some. There are a few leather manufacturers that specialize in shell cordovan. One of the oldest and widely respected is Horween Leather Co. in Chicago.

I was in Downtown Chicago in September. The Tannery Row in West Chicago is the exclusive outlet for Horween Leather Co. operating almost as an extension of Horween but also has a wide variety of offerings from other tanneries. They were located about 15 mins from my hotel in Chicago. I picked up some Shell Cordovan in what is known as Color 4 which is a brown color shell. Shell Cordovan is an entire subject by itself and I will leave it at that. But will be happy to share more if there is interest.

Back home in Hyderabad, I went over to meet Tarun Oblum to make a pair of shoes for me and I asked for them to made in what is known as a Long Wing Derby or Blucher. Enclosing pictures of my brand new pair of Shell Cordovan Long Wing Derbys.

 

[arj]

One of the oldest and widely respected is Horween Leather Co. in Chicago.

I was in Downtown Chicago in September. The Tannery Row in West Chicago is the exclusive outlet for Horween leather operating almost as an extension of Horween but also has a wide variety of offerings from other tanneries. They were located about 15 mins from my hotel in Chicago. I picked up some Shell Cordovan in what is known as Color 4 which is a brown color shwll. Shell Cordovan is an entire subject by itself and I will leave it at that. But will be happy to share more if there is interest.

Very Cool ! how do you know the amount of leather to buy for a Shoe or boot ?

 

[Nikhil]

Very Cool ! how do you know the amount of leather to buy for a Shoe or boot ?

I had asked my shoemaker for an estimate but the leather supplier will also know.
For these shoes I had to use two "shells" which were about 1.9 sft and 1.45 sft each.

Note: This doesn't really matter when using regular leather as those are available in large sheets.

 

[moktan]

And I thought audio was a deep enough rabbit hole. Here is another pair of shoes made for me by Oblum Shoes, Hyderabad.

After getting into the bespoke shoe "hobby" (thanks to Moktan), I came to know of a very highly sought after leather type called Shell Cordovan. Google is your friend for those who would like to know more. In short it is the tissue that is located under the horse rump that is used in making a variety of items - shoes and wallets being some. There are a few leather manufacturers that specialize in shell cordovan. One of the oldest and widely respected is Horween Leather Co. in Chicago.

I was in Downtown Chicago in September. The Tannery Row in West Chicago is the exclusive outlet for Horween Leather Co. operating almost as an extension of Horween but also has a wide variety of offerings from other tanneries. They were located about 15 mins from my hotel in Chicago. I picked up some Shell Cordovan in what is known as Color 4 which is a brown color shell. Shell Cordovan is an entire subject by itself and I will leave it at that. But will be happy to share more if there is interest.

Back home in Hyderabad, I went over to meet Tarun Oblum to make a pair of shoes for me and I asked for them to made in what is known as a Long Wing Derby or Blucher. Enclosing pictures of my brand new pair of Shell Cordovan Long Wing Derbys.


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Welcome to the cordovan club….my Carmina , Bridlen and Alden Cordovan shoes…the Bridlen cordovan is from Shiniki while the other two are from Horoween…..