Shoes

i don’t think they are the same .. one needs to be careful with saphir rénovateur as in some cases it will cause the paint/polish to come off .. usually they recommend applying a little on the portion on the counter above the heel to check .. also if you notice in the herring website , they advise you against putting this on shoes made by Carlos Santos of Portugal… .. the mink though less advertised is known to be more versatile if used infrequently in small dabs .. you may want check some good advice here too ..
Thanks! Will read up more.

With regards,
Sandeep Sasi
 
i don’t think they are the same .. one needs to be careful with saphir rénovateur as in some cases it will cause the paint/polish to come off .. usually they recommend applying a little on the portion on the counter above the heel to check .. also if you notice in the herring website , they advise you against putting this on shoes made by Carlos Santos of Portugal… .. the mink though less advertised is known to be more versatile if used infrequently in small dabs .. you may want check some good advice here too ..
Hi @moktan,

I completely missed the warning about the Renovateur on the Herring Shoes website. Based on the product description on the Saphir website and various reviews, the Renovateur first seemed to me to be magical shoe care product that can condition as well as polish leather. Anyway, I cancelled the Renovateur and requested them to replace it with a Saphir horse shoe brush which they did.

By the way, the mink oil lotion also contains beeswax. So, is a separate polish like this really necessary?

And, how often do you recommend using the mink oil lotion and the polish (if it is needed)? Some write-ups say that a nourishing oil/cream need to be used before polishing only if the leather appears too dry and otherwise, only periodic polishing is enough.

At least to a novice like me, the Saphir catalog seems a bit confusing as I find an overlap in the composition as well as the purpose mentioned in the description of their various products.

With regards,
Sandeep Sasi
 
Hi @moktan,

I completely missed the warning about the Renovateur on the Herring Shoes website. Based on the product description on the Saphir website and various reviews, the Renovateur first seemed to me to be magical shoe care product that can condition as well as polish leather. Anyway, I cancelled the Renovateur and requested them to replace it with a Saphir horse shoe brush which they did.

By the way, the mink oil lotion also contains beeswax. So, is a separate polish like this really necessary?

And, how often do you recommend using the mink oil lotion and the polish (if it is needed)? Some write-ups say that a nourishing oil/cream need to be used before polishing only if the leather appears too dry and otherwise, only periodic polishing is enough.

At least to a novice like me, the Saphir catalog seems a bit confusing as I find an overlap in the composition as well as the purpose mentioned in the description of their various products.

With regards,
Sandeep Sasi
There are two product lines by Saphir - the more expensive mèdáille d’or and the beauté d’cuir. The mink oil ( which is perhaps the only thing that is needed for shoe care, the wax can do the polishing ) can be used as and when required( perhaps once every six months ). Some friends feel the less expensive lotions from the second category , especially the ones for oiled and waxy leather are more suitable for the Indian monsoons.
In any case , you cannot go wrong with the milk oil ( huile de vision ) and the wax polish.
 
There are two product lines by Saphir - the more expensive mèdáille d’or and the beauté d’cuir. The mink oil ( which is perhaps the only thing that is needed for shoe care, the wax can do the polishing ) can be used as and when required( perhaps once every six months ). Some friends feel the less expensive lotions from the second category , especially the ones for oiled and waxy leather are more suitable for the Indian monsoons.
In any case , you cannot go wrong with the milk oil ( huile de vision ) and the wax polish.
Hi Moktan,

Do we need to use a polish remover like this before each round of polishing, to remove previous wax buildup (as mentioned in this blog)?

The product description of the Saphir Reno'Mat itself says that it is "powerful" and a few other blogs I came across advise against its frequent use. Saphir also has a similar product for removing wax buildup which they advertise as a bit "gentler."

There is also a shoe care routine on Tricker's website where they don't mention about removing wax buildup at all :). They just talk about applying one round of a cream polish, followed by a round of wax polish.

With regards,
Sandeep Sasi
 
Hi Moktan,

Do we need to use a polish remover like this before each round of polishing, to remove previous wax buildup (as mentioned in this blog)?

The product description of the Saphir Reno'Mat itself says that it is "powerful" and a few other blogs I came across advise against its frequent use. Saphir also has a similar product for removing wax buildup which they advertise as a bit "gentler."

There is also a shoe care routine on Tricker's website where they don't mention about removing wax buildup at all :). They just talk about applying one round of a cream polish, followed by a round of wax polish.

With regards,
Sandeep Sasi
I personally wouldn’t use anything other than wax and elbow grease to get the shine and an occasional rubdown with the mink oil to condition the shoe.
With use , the cork on the footbed of your Trickers will mould to the shape of your feet making it fit like a glove and the patina of time will make the leather look lovely. You are simply going to love your boots like an old , faithful friend. The only caveat is the sizing as Trickers sizing is tricky, so let’s keep our fingers ( or toes crossed ) till you actually try it. The upside is that it will most probably be a little loose which is preferable for a boot as it allows one to wear thicker socks — not a prospect you may relish if you live where the summers are scorching — but wonderful for cold weather.
Also, the Grenson website has some great made in UK boots and shoes if you are interested . Grenson says they will pay the duty too so that makes the prospect even more inviting. Though one is recommend to order just their made in UK shoes.
 
I personally wouldn’t use anything other than wax and elbow grease to get the shine and an occasional rubdown with the mink oil to condition the shoe.
With use , the cork on the footbed of your Trickers will mould to the shape of your feet making it fit like a glove and the patina of time will make the leather look lovely. You are simply going to love your boots like an old , faithful friend. The only caveat is the sizing as Trickers sizing is tricky, so let’s keep our fingers ( or toes crossed ) till you actually try it. The upside is that it will most probably be a little loose which is preferable for a boot as it allows one to wear thicker socks — not a prospect you may relish if you live where the summers are scorching — but wonderful for cold weather.
Also, the Grenson website has some great made in UK boots and shoes if you are interested . Grenson says they will pay the duty too so that makes the prospect even more inviting. Though one is recommend to order just their made in UK shoes.
Thanks, Moktan.

Herring Shoes just had one pair of Tricker's Burford sized 8.5UK left. I measured my feet several times in the evening before placing the order and, sometimes, the readings crossed the 267mm mark by a few mm (267mm is the recommended foot size for shoe size 8.5UK on the Tricker's website for the particular last for the boots I ordered). It could very well have been due to a large error during measurement. But if it wasn't, in a way, I'm banking on the fact that the Tricker's will offer some headroom.

Just checked the Grenson website. I liked the collection, but I'm out of budget for more shoes (and I think I'll be for many years :)).

I personally wouldn’t use anything other than wax and elbow grease to get the shine and an occasional rubdown with the mink oil to condition the shoe.

By the way, a typical, regular polishing routine talks about applying a cream polish followed by a wax polish. So, you skip the cream polish (like this one) completely? Since you also mentioned that the mink oil lotion is only applied once every six months or so, is that enough to keep the leather conditioned? Since I have fewer pairs than you do, my usage will be much more frequent. Hence, the question!

With regards,
Sandeep Sasi
 
Thanks, Moktan.

Herring Shoes just had one pair of Tricker's Burford sized 8.5UK left. I measured my feet several times in the evening before placing the order and, sometimes, the readings crossed the 267mm mark by a few mm (267mm is the recommended foot size for shoe size 8.5UK on the Tricker's website for the particular last for the boots I ordered). It could very well have been due to a large error during measurement. But if it wasn't, in a way, I'm banking on the fact that the Tricker's will offer some headroom.

Just checked the Grenson website. I liked the collection, but I'm out of budget for more shoes (and I think I'll be for many years :)).



By the way, a typical, regular polishing routine talks about applying a cream polish followed by a wax polish. So, you skip the cream polish (like this one) completely? Since you also mentioned that the mink oil lotion is only applied once every six months or so, is that enough to keep the leather conditioned? Since I have fewer pairs than you do, my usage will be much more frequent. Hence, the question!

With regards,
Sandeep Sasi
Yes i think the cream can be skipped. The Saphir mink oil is like liquid Gold for leather ( not just shoes) and you get a deep shine with it. It smells great too.
You perhaps want to invest in some cedar shoe trees too. The Lify ( think I got the brand name correct ) trees available on Amazon are ok but the screw comes undone easily. There was a Russian guy in Dubai who sold good shoe trees at very reasonable rates. I can share his contact if you have someone there who can bring it for you.
 
Yes i think the cream can be skipped. The Saphir mink oil is like liquid Gold for leather ( not just shoes) and you get a deep shine with it. It smells great too.
You perhaps want to invest in some cedar shoe trees too. The Lify ( think I got the brand name correct ) trees available on Amazon are ok but the screw comes undone easily. There was a Russian guy in Dubai who sold good shoe trees at very reasonable rates. I can share his contact if you have someone there who can bring it for you.
Thanks a lot, Moktan!

I did get these cedar shoe trees made by PRO, but have no idea about their quality though. I have a few friends in Dubai and I will get in touch with you when their visits are around the corner.

With regards,
Sandeep Sasi
 
I'm a fan of sneakers, it's the most convenient shoes, e.g. asics, I use these for pickleball. They work great and provide plenty of comfort and support for all of the stop and go required. Kind of dorky looking with the white and gold colors (make sure to wear high white socks to complete the look) … but extremely effective! Highly recommend.
 
The Tricker's have arrived!

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The toe boxes are a bit tight right now. But, I think they'll be fine after they break in. And, the goodies for their upkeep have arrived too...

2s.jpg

3s.jpg

While the return window of Herring Shoes is still open, someone else at home apparently decided that we are keeping them... 🤷‍♂️

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5s.jpg

@moktan, after troubling you with so many questions, finally I decided to go against your advice! I got in touch with Sandeep from Saphir, India to check whether they can exchange the neutral shoe cream that I had purchased for neutral shoe wax. After listening to my requirements, he suggested that a pigmented shoe cream is what I would be really needing. Though his recommendation was in line with what I have been reading online, I was not convinced much and I got in touch with someone from Tricker's. During the discussion over email, I realized that mine is what can be called a hard wearing style - almost everyday usage with very few other pairs to rotate with, worn as casuals, worn outdoors, etc. The shoe cream contains oils that will keep the leather conditioned, contains beeswax that will protect the leather from elements and the pigment it has will fade any scratches and scuff marks over time. Moreover, unlike the polish, the cream gives a matt finish which is to my liking. So, exchanged the neutral cream and wax for shoe cream in Cognac Brown color. By the way, thanks for introducing me to Tricker's!

Also, Sandeep from Saphir, India is highly knowledgeable and has been very patient while dealing with my constantly evolving requirements!

With regards,
Sandeep Sasi
 
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The Tricker's have arrived!

View attachment 75134

The toe boxes are a bit tight right now. But, I think they'll be fine after they break in. And, the goodies for their upkeep have arrived too...

View attachment 75135

View attachment 75136

While the return window of Herring Shoes is still open, someone else at home apparently decided that we are keeping them... 🤷‍♂️

View attachment 75137

View attachment 75138

@moktan, after troubling you with so many questions, finally I decided to go against your advice! I got in touch with Sandeep from Saphir, India to check whether they can exchange the neutral shoe cream that I had purchased for neutral shoe wax. After listening to my requirements, he suggested that a pigmented shoe cream is what I would be really needing. Though his recommendation was in line with what I have been reading online, I was not convinced much and I got in touch with someone from Tricker's. During the discussion over email, I realized that mine is what can be called a hard wearing style - almost everyday usage with very few other pairs to rotate with, worn as casuals, worn outdoors, etc. The shoe cream contains oils that will keep the leather conditioned, contains beeswax that will protect the leather from elements and the pigment it has will fade any scratches and scuff marks over time. Moreover, unlike the polish, the cream gives a matt finish which is to my liking. So, exchanged the neutral cream and wax for shoe cream in Cognac Brown color. By the way, thanks for introducing me to Tricker's!

Also, Sandeep from Saphir, India is highly knowledgeable and has been very patient while dealing with my constantly evolving requirements!

With regards,
Sandeep Sasi
The Trickers boot looks great. I am quite sure this will not be the last good boot that you will buy.
If things work out , I am probably looking to get the Alden Shell Cordovan boot in color 8, this fall. The Indy is in the wider Truebalance last whereas the Jumper boot is in the Barrie last, so I need to do a bit more research between the two since I will have to do a blind buy.
The Enzo Bonafe Shell Cordovan boot too looks stunning but it’s price hurts.
Many years ago I was advised to use Saphir mink oil for conditioning the leather by a French friend who knows his shoes and leather. I have used the Saphir shoe cream ( still have a few bottles the same friend got for me ) but between it and the mink oil , I have preferred the latter. The mink oil penetrates the leather to condition it , the wax and cream forms a coat. Since mink oil softens the leather by penetrating it, its use should be judicious. It also darkens the leather.
A good saddle soap is something that you may need to clean the coating formed by the wax and the creams that you will use . I tend to agree with assessment made here, so you have made a great choice too.
Lastly I have also interacted with Mr Sandeep from whom I bought a loafer at Bourgee. He is very helpful and when they replenish their inventory , he never fails to send me the catalog on WhatsApp. Bourgee has some very good looking TLB Mallorca and Carmina dress shoes.
 
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Okay - so I have purchased some shoes as well in the US and need to get them to Delhi - 6 pairs. What I was given to understand is that its better to send the material via Sea freight - Ocean freight rather than by Air freight.
Any ideas....or references?
sorry off topic.
 
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I couldn’t pass this historic event .. an Indian company making Shell Cordovan shoes in the country so ordered this longwing blucher..the leather is sourced from Shiniki Japan ( Horoween makes the more famous color 8 cordovan found on Alden shoes ) .. Bridlen says they have leather to make a few more pairs .. once they get the next batch of the Cordovan they plan to do loafers too ..
this shoe comes with a sure step leather sole one sees in some Japanese donkey puncher boots ..
IMG_4289.jpeg
 
I couldn’t pass this historic event .. an Indian company making Shell Cordovan shoes in the country so ordered this longwing blucher..the leather is sourced from Shiniki Japan ( Horoween makes the more famous color 8 cordovan found on Alden shoes ) .. Bridlen says they have leather to make a few more pairs .. once they get the next batch of the Cordovan they plan to do loafers too ..
this shoe comes with a sure step leather sole one sees in some Japanese donkey puncher boots ..
View attachment 77252

Beautiful pair of shoes Moktan! I went over to their website and took a long hard look. I might go and visit them on my next trip to Chennai to get a better idea of what size and last would be a good fit for me.

Question for you: I have moved over to rubber soles almost entirely. I just can't wear leather soles any more. They tend to slip on carpet and tile which makes it very painful to wear. What is your opinion on the question of leather soles vs rubber soles? Can these leather soles offer the grip and comfort of a rubber sole?


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Beautiful pair of shoes Moktan! I went over to their website and took a long hard look. I might go and visit them on my next trip to Chennai to get a better idea of what size and last would be a good fit for me.

Question for you: I have moved over to rubber soles almost entirely. I just can't wear leather soles any more. They tend to slip on carpet and tile which makes it very painful to wear. What is your opinion on the question of leather soles vs rubber soles? Can these leather soles offer the grip and comfort of a rubber sole?


.
The thing with Bridlen is they take time. In this case for example , the shoe is built on their Rui last which is a conservative, rounded last. The other Bridlen boots I own were built on the Saga last. Since two different types of boots of the same size and built on the same last , do not wear the same, one cannot say without trying how comfortable I would be wearing something on the Rui last. They were supposed to send me a pair to try out but didn’t have anything in their inventory. So currently they are building a similar shoe with a different leather on the Rui last. Once this is done they will ship it to me for trials. They will start building the cordovan shoes only after I try this shoe and give them my feedback. I personally do not like the shape of some of their ‘modern’ lasts in the founders line. Perhaps they will need some time to evolve into something finer. The mainline seems a much better value for money and ‘safer’ because they are more conservative.
Leather soles are supposed to be more elegant but across the world now people prefer the rubber soles for the reasons you mentioned ( grip , comfort and slip resistance ) and durability as well. This was the reason why J Rendenbach , the tannery that built the iconic oak bark tanned JR soles closed down — even premium shoes were over the years increasingly being built with rubber soles. My personal opinion is that in India with the wet weather we have, rubber soles are the way to go. Though not all rubber soles are the same.
Of course there is something else about the aesthetics of a well crafted narrow waisted bevelled or fiddleback leather sole , which even though no one will see when you are wearing it , are works of art and sometimes will cost as much as one 😊.
 
The thing with Bridlen is they take time. In this case for example , the shoe is built on their Rui last which is a conservative, rounded last. The other Bridlen boots I own were built on the Saga last. Since two different types of boots of the same size and built on the same last , do not wear the same, one cannot say without trying how comfortable I would be wearing something on the Rui last. They were supposed to send me a pair to try out but didn’t have anything in their inventory. So currently they are building a similar shoe with a different leather on the Rui last. Once this is done they will ship it to me for trials. They will start building the cordovan shoes only after I try this shoe and give them my feedback.

That's interesting! Just going by looks I think their Mod last would be a better fit for me.
The round toe and room for wide feet just seems more like my style. I find the Rui last a little narrow to my eye.

The Bowen Hockley Calf Brown on Bourgee made me pause for a ponder.

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This article was in the Mumai Times of India newspaper a few days back. Reminded me of the dapper gents on this thread.

IMG_20230714_104856129.jpg
 
I couldn’t pass this historic event .. an Indian company making Shell Cordovan shoes in the country so ordered this longwing blucher..the leather is sourced from Shiniki Japan ( Horoween makes the more famous color 8 cordovan found on Alden shoes ) .. Bridlen says they have leather to make a few more pairs .. once they get the next batch of the Cordovan they plan to do loafers too ..
this shoe comes with a sure step leather sole one sees in some Japanese donkey puncher boots ..

Moktan, when is your order due for delivery? My order for the Plain Derby is due this week.
Bridlen has been an interesting experience so far. My first interaction with a premium shoe maker.

They sent over a test pair of shoes (Punch Cap Oxfords). It wasn't a true "pair" - one was half size smaller and had a different sole design. The right shoe was a flat sole and the left had an arched fiddle back shape. I preferred the flat sole. However the main intention was to check the fit and I confirmed that the wide MOD last was a great fit for my feet. I found the leather very stiff and told them I would prefer a softer leather for my pair. I also ended up changing the size to a half size larger and the colour from black to brown.

So far they have been very prompt with their replies via email. The don't always answer the phone but they usually call back within an hour. One "issue" is that they seem to have a separate system in house than their website ordering system. My order is still showing as the original black pair on the order confirmation link. But they have assured me that they are making the pair as per changes requested by email.

Will post an update when I get my pair.


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Moktan, when is your order due for delivery? My order for the Plain Derby is due this week.
Bridlen has been an interesting experience so far. My first interaction with a premium shoe maker.

They sent over a test pair of shoes (Punch Cap Oxfords). It wasn't a true "pair" - one was half size smaller and had a different sole design. The right shoe was a flat sole and the left had an arched fiddle back shape. I preferred the flat sole. However the main intention was to check the fit and I confirmed that the wide MOD last was a great fit for my feet. I found the leather very stiff and told them I would prefer a softer leather for my pair. I also ended up changing the size to a half size larger and the colour from black to brown.

So far they have been very prompt with their replies via email. The don't always answer the phone but they usually call back within an hour. One "issue" is that they seem to have a separate system in house than their website ordering system. My order is still showing as the original black pair on the order confirmation link. But they have assured me that they are making the pair as per changes requested by email.

Will post an update when I get my pair.


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As per the latest update — after going through the same process as you — Mr Affan says the Cordovan leather has to sit on the last for a ‘considerable amount of time’. So I am looking forward to getting the delivery sometime in the first week of August.
 
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