I had been reading encouraging reviews on Dayton audio drivers and they were quite economical as well.
So I took the first plunge with Dayton reference series alluminium cone drivers in my car audio setup where I went completely DIY except for the fibreglass fabrication for midrange and tweeters in the dashboard.
It was quite successful and I managed to get a 4-way quasi active setup which sounds quite nice.
The pictures of my car audio DIY setup.....
Midrange and tweeters in a custom fiberglass enclosure in the dashboard
Midbass in the front door:
The Eclipse CD7200 MKII head unit
Two old school Pioneer GM-X944 amps in the boot with MX reference signal cables
Not in picture is a Infinity Kappa 10 inch subwoofer placed in the boot.
Then I decided to take the plunge with home audio. I already had a custom designed 3-way passive towers with peerless drivers (10 inch midbass, 5 inch Bolton midrange and Peerless tweeters). They were quite decent but the midrange and tweeters blew.
I then decided to go the Dayton way there too, I could not afford the Dayton
reference 10 inch drivers and decided to settle for the following.
All are nominal 8 ohm impedance drivers.
Dayton Audio Classic series DC250-8, 10 inch treated paper cone 8 midbass
Dayton Audio DC250-8 10" Classic Woofer 8 Ohm
Dayton Audio Reference series RS150P-8, 6 inch paper cone midbass
Dayton Audio RS150-8 6" Reference Woofer 8 Ohm
Rexy Onkyo TW-30 silk dome tweeters
I caught hold of a regular carpenter who was carrying out some major carpentry work in my uncle's house. It was the first time he was building speaker boxes but was generally good in his work.
To keep the cost low, I decided to go for a simple box design without too much contouring and mica finish instead of polish and other methods.
I could not flush mount as the carpenter is not having the necessary tool or skill for it.
I used couple of softwares to work out the enclosure sizes, tuning frequency and port design. Since I do not have any measuring tools, I just went by the driver specs provided by the manufacturer.
The softwares I used were WinISD, Bandbox pro and a few more.
I decided to have separate enclosures for each driver.
Material used: 18mm MDF board, matt finish mica.
for midbass it is a behemoth, roughly 30 / 19 / 12, 85 liters with a port frequency of 26.47 hz. The 70mm port will be flared at both ends.
The enclosure is sufficiently braced.
The midrange is a sealed enclosure, the size a little larger than the recommended one but I will be using minimum damping.
The tweeter is also in a separate enclosure.
The midrange and tweeters are not exactly cuboid but angled a little in the rear just for some appearance.
I will be using hex bolts and t nuts for mounting the drivers. Also getting heavy duty feet for the midbass enclosure.
Heavy guage terminals from MX.
All port, mounting hardware and the speaker feet/spikes will be supplied by Aminder of theaudiocrafts.com
There will be no crossovers sitting inside the enclosures as the drivers will be driven actively from by DBX crossover and 6 channel power amp.
These may not be the best looking or the professional ones by some other qualified members. But this is more of an attempt by an enthusiast.
Criticisms and suggestions are most welcome
I am hoping the speakers to be ready for listening in another 10/15 days.
Hoping they sound good.
Here are some pictures
So I took the first plunge with Dayton reference series alluminium cone drivers in my car audio setup where I went completely DIY except for the fibreglass fabrication for midrange and tweeters in the dashboard.
It was quite successful and I managed to get a 4-way quasi active setup which sounds quite nice.
The pictures of my car audio DIY setup.....
Midrange and tweeters in a custom fiberglass enclosure in the dashboard
Midbass in the front door:
The Eclipse CD7200 MKII head unit
Two old school Pioneer GM-X944 amps in the boot with MX reference signal cables
Not in picture is a Infinity Kappa 10 inch subwoofer placed in the boot.
Then I decided to take the plunge with home audio. I already had a custom designed 3-way passive towers with peerless drivers (10 inch midbass, 5 inch Bolton midrange and Peerless tweeters). They were quite decent but the midrange and tweeters blew.
I then decided to go the Dayton way there too, I could not afford the Dayton
reference 10 inch drivers and decided to settle for the following.
All are nominal 8 ohm impedance drivers.
Dayton Audio Classic series DC250-8, 10 inch treated paper cone 8 midbass
Dayton Audio DC250-8 10" Classic Woofer 8 Ohm
Dayton Audio Reference series RS150P-8, 6 inch paper cone midbass
Dayton Audio RS150-8 6" Reference Woofer 8 Ohm
Rexy Onkyo TW-30 silk dome tweeters
I caught hold of a regular carpenter who was carrying out some major carpentry work in my uncle's house. It was the first time he was building speaker boxes but was generally good in his work.
To keep the cost low, I decided to go for a simple box design without too much contouring and mica finish instead of polish and other methods.
I could not flush mount as the carpenter is not having the necessary tool or skill for it.
I used couple of softwares to work out the enclosure sizes, tuning frequency and port design. Since I do not have any measuring tools, I just went by the driver specs provided by the manufacturer.
The softwares I used were WinISD, Bandbox pro and a few more.
I decided to have separate enclosures for each driver.
Material used: 18mm MDF board, matt finish mica.
for midbass it is a behemoth, roughly 30 / 19 / 12, 85 liters with a port frequency of 26.47 hz. The 70mm port will be flared at both ends.
The enclosure is sufficiently braced.
The midrange is a sealed enclosure, the size a little larger than the recommended one but I will be using minimum damping.
The tweeter is also in a separate enclosure.
The midrange and tweeters are not exactly cuboid but angled a little in the rear just for some appearance.
I will be using hex bolts and t nuts for mounting the drivers. Also getting heavy duty feet for the midbass enclosure.
Heavy guage terminals from MX.
All port, mounting hardware and the speaker feet/spikes will be supplied by Aminder of theaudiocrafts.com
There will be no crossovers sitting inside the enclosures as the drivers will be driven actively from by DBX crossover and 6 channel power amp.
These may not be the best looking or the professional ones by some other qualified members. But this is more of an attempt by an enthusiast.
Criticisms and suggestions are most welcome
I am hoping the speakers to be ready for listening in another 10/15 days.
Hoping they sound good.
Here are some pictures
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