What cables to use inside preamp?

Cables;
I would use any reasonably quality shielded cable for all the positions you mention except for ground where I would use solid copper wire of about 22 gauge.

Safety
The schematic as displayed seem to represents the PCB wiring scheme. The 200V AC is post the power transformer.

Delay:
I would much rather has a power on delay for the main HT. Tubes are said to be happiest when the HT is applied after the heaters have been on for about 10 seconds. A tube rectifier has a built in delay feature whereas a solid state rectifier will present the full HT the moment power is applied.

However, if you are determined to add a delay then consider a scheme that normally shunts the output to the ground and opens it with a delay of about 5~10 seconds after power on restoring the out put to the amplifier. And no, shorting the output to ground wont normally damage your line stage. This way you avoid passing your precious audio throu a metallic relay contact.

I have seen this schematic earlier in vt4c forum where Chinese members reversed engineered the original GG design. However, I also have a schematic of the real thing (courtesy GeorgeO) and there are differences. I had built a proto and it cost me nothing as all parts were available, but a reasonable guesstimate will put it at about Rs. 1,000 using ok parts available in India.

The original has separate PSU for the + and HT rails. This clone doesnt have that and that is a big compromise. Do consider incorporating that at a later stage. Ultimately a shunt regulated PSU will improve things considerably. There are several good designs available if you Google.

The GG line stage is an excellent design and you shall not be disappointed. Happy building !
 
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Cables;
I would use any reasonably quality shielded cable for all the positions you mention except for ground where I would use solid copper wire of about 22 gauge.

Safety
The schematic as displayed seem to represents the PCB wiring scheme. The 200V AC is post the power transformer.

Delay:
I would much rather has a power on delay for the main HT. Tubes are said to be happiest when the HT is applied after the heaters have been on for about 10 seconds. A tube rectifier has a built in delay feature whereas a solid state rectifier will present the full HT the moment power is applied.

However, if you are determined to add a delay then consider a scheme that normally shunts the output to the ground and opens it with a delay of about 5~10 seconds after power on restoring the out put to the amplifier. And no, shorting the output to ground wont normally damage your line stage. This way you avoid passing your precious audio throu a metallic relay contact.

I have seen this schematic earlier in vt4c forum where Chinese members reversed engineered the original GG design. However, I also have a schematic of the real thing (courtesy GeorgeO) and there are differences. I had built a proto and it cost me nothing as all parts were available, but a reasonable guesstimate will put it at about Rs. 1,000 using ok parts available in India.

The original has separate PSU for the + and HT rails. This clone doesnt have that and that is a big compromise. Do consider incorporating that at a later stage. Ultimately a shunt regulated PSU will improve things considerably. There are several good designs available if you Google.

The GG line stage is an excellent design and you shall not be disappointed. Happy building !

AKS

The GG was already built, auditioned and unassembled now awaiting a new chassis. It sounds great!! Pitch black background, has the capacity that can be described as "plumbing the depths" of the music, and has transformed by budget NAD 325 into a hulking powerhouse capable of threateningly deep authority at low to moderate volumes. I would certainly like to consider your mods - however building the DIY chassis is such a pain, I will not be able to modify the chassis later without great inconvenience and a weeks lag. There is a BJT voltage regulation kit for this available fir the GG - Will it work equally well? Right now the output delay circuit is part of the the kit as well.

Now If only you had advised thus earlier :) Are you in Bangalore? I would love it if you come over one day and check it out. I would not trust modding my GG (for PSU and output delay) with anybody else except you and George's friend (can't recall his name).
But modding it is only a lazy thought for now unless you inspire me with a personal check-up and CBM!! :D

Cheers
 
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As it happens the most difficult and expensive parts are the hardware, chassis etc. I usually loose the battle to make that perfect chassis and make do with whatever can be had.

Sadly I dont live in BLR but do have plans to visit.

I would not trust modding my GG (for PSU and output delay) with anybody else
Dont worry, a none tube guy has more chances of screwing up himself rather than your cherished gear ;)

A regulated PSU may make a big difference. However, I would recommend that you use the linestage in the stock form till you know its sonic signature instinctively. Modding can come later.

BTW I like the way to describe the colour and physical dimensions of the sonics of this linestage ;)
 
As it happens the most difficult and expensive parts are the hardware, chassis etc. I usually loose the battle to make that perfect chassis and make do with whatever can be had.

Sadly I dont live in BLR but do have plans to visit.


Dont worry, a none tube guy has more chances of screwing up himself rather than your cherished gear ;)

A regulated PSU may make a big difference. However, I would recommend that you use the linestage in the stock form till you know its sonic signature instinctively. Modding can come later.

BTW I like the way to describe the colour and physical dimensions of the sonics of this linestage ;)

Yeah, mods can wait - why mod when the SQ is good? Then only to increase life of tubes and eliminate extra components like output mute delay circuit.

Hee hee maybe I was ensuring the readers felt too threatened to challenge my claims that the GG clone was good :D.

Let me tone it down and say differently - it synergies-es a little too well with my power amp :) More than I bargained for ... Now I can postpone my power section upgrade by a few years until serendipity convinces me :)

Cheers and Thanks.
 
about the kannada - "YAK RI BOLIMAGA - SUMNE MATHADBEDI! - TINDU SINGUL WIRE HEYLIDRE GOTH HAGUDILWA? - YELLI SIKKATE? - NINDE THANDEGE WODSBIDTHENI! - BYE!" - you are guaranteed hookup with tinned copper wire by a mob of shopkeepers!

REGARDS

Hey Suri,
Would you mind translating those kannada lines? I am already laughing just anticipating what funny things you might have written there :eek:hyeah:
 
gobble..Why not just go with a wooden enclosure for the 4 sides and a simple perforated bottom plate and top plate.. or you could go with plain aluminum as well.

I forget the name of the place where you can get some amazing raw aluminum for DIY use. Of course you will have to cut it, mill and finish it.
I will try to remember this place. I bought my heatsinks and al related metal stuff to build my 7 channel gainclone amp.
Its a DIY delight to go there especially if you have the resources to get the metal work done after the purchase.

But yeah, a wooden enclosure ought to work great and cheap too.
 
gobble..Why not just go with a wooden enclosure for the 4 sides and a simple perforated bottom plate and top plate.. or you could go with plain aluminum as well.

I forget the name of the place where you can get some amazing raw aluminum for DIY use. Of course you will have to cut it, mill and finish it.
I will try to remember this place. I bought my heatsinks and al related metal stuff to build my 7 channel gainclone amp.
Its a DIY delight to go there especially if you have the resources to get the metal work done after the purchase.

But yeah, a wooden enclosure ought to work great and cheap too.

The sample front plate made of wood turned out to be a disaster with the local workman skills. I am now going for Aluminum front and rear plates. Only I could not get Aircarft grade T6061 Alu only commercial grade 4mm. Actually I will switch to brass 4mm sheet after the Alu is done. I have a fancy idea for the top - wooden with large holes cut covered by a ready made powder coated grills I found.

Will post pics in a weeks time :)

Let me know where to get good Alu from in Bangalore and I will consider.
Already checked JC road

Cheers
 
aks07-Looking forward to have you over and sample some choice stuff made by Khodays..

George

>Sadly I dont live in BLR but do have plans to visit.
 
Sweet..am having some big plans for my Aikido Preamp as well. Look forward to a brass front anel on yours..that'll be :cool:

Sounds nice! What flavor are you going with? Are you planning on documenting the build? I for one would be extremely interested. Thanks!
 
Re: Now what to use for star grounding?

OK, My preamp is singing now - on a temporary chassis once again!! (I've been sleeping late and waking late like 10am since last 3 months and this has resulted in my chassis building project being postponed!)

Now I want to plan the wiring runs and layout inside the new chassis so the final work does not look so grotesque. I've got two places with star grounding.

One is chassis ground with tranny, L+R rca-in signal ground, pcb grounding from the circuit and mains earth. The other star is signal grounds of rca-in L+R to L+R grounds of volume-pot, all of which go into pcb totalling 5 wires! Needless to say its one big messy looking layout! But the hum is completely taken care of - even the one that existed in my earlier build. ( Very faint buzz from RF/mains exists though!)

I need some metal fitting into which I can run 5 wires in cleanly without struggling to solder them all in one tiny place. It should lend itself to neatness and prevent having to solder multiple wires in one place.

Any suggestions? I am thinking tiny spades or earth lugs per wire all going into one screw into a 6mm thick copper strip 1" wide and long (assuming a wooden chassis)? This way I can solder each wire to a spade or lug individually instead of struggling to solder one wire on top of another and watching them come off with the heat applied for the next round of soldering!! (took me %#@$%%%@ 30 mins to solder 5 wires together onto one earthing lug!!)

But if you folks know of any popular trick or mechanical fastener used in electronics let me know. I also need to figure out how I will "staple" the wires to run neatly along a perimeter of the chassis. Any tips?

Regards
 
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Gobble will this help ...
Star-Ground-Rectifier-Bridge-Snubbers.jpg

To arrange wires neatly you need ZipTie.
zip-ties.jpg

or...
CAQFLX.jpg

both available at computerwallah or electronics Shop.
 
Gobble will this help ...
Star-Ground-Rectifier-Bridge-Snubbers.jpg

To arrange wires neatly you need ZipTie.
zip-ties.jpg

or...
CAQFLX.jpg

both available at computerwallah or electronics Shop.

Great stuff Hiten!!

Do you know what to call these connectors? I like the last one as it is flexible - cables can be removed and added, the cable ties are one time use only.

Regards
 
Dont know the name (Probably are called wall mounting plugs / hardware store may have them). My friend who runs electronic shop sells them, it is in white colour has one side open and instead of screw it has nails. If you want I can inquire.
 
Dont know the name (Probably are called wall mounting plugs / hardware store may have them). My friend who runs electronic shop sells them, it is in white colour has one side open and instead of screw it has nails. If you want I can inquire.

Wall mount? Nails? No I want to screw it into a 3mm dia 0.5mm pitch hole.
I will check on SP road this week. Thanks!

Cheers
 
Wall mount? Nails? No I want to screw it into a 3mm dia 0.5mm pitch hole.
I will check on SP road this week. Thanks!

Cheers
No Gobble its not what you think. nail can be replaced with screw.
ZipTies are cheap (I think 60/70 Rs. per 100) you can cut and bind with new one.
 
Here is a look inside my assembled Pre :)

The two tubes in the front are JJ/Tesla from former Checz republic. The one in the back is a Shugang. All 12AU7s.

Cheers
 

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It may be the placebo effect, but I am hearing things when I don't put a metal lid on top of the temp chassis, and the SQ appears to have a quieter quality with more accuracy to it - with the lid in place. This is making me reconsider - should i go ahead and make a wooden chassis or should I order an all metal chassis?

What is the effect of RF ? Hum and buzz or less quietude and accuracy in SQ?

Is Aluminum a good shield against RF or should I go for a M.S frame?

Regards
 
What fun DIY is if you cant make things your way ? :)
Why not use best of the both the world. You can make inner lining of metal foil inside wooden case.
 
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