Anatomy of Norge 1000 GOLD Stereo Integrated Amplifier

Thanks for the Excellent Review of Norge 1000 Gold & Norge 2060

I am looking for the budget system, my budget is 20K. Do you know what is today Price for Norge 1000 & Norge 2060 (both are with remote), Please let me know which speaker will go best with these Amp.

Thanks
Chinmaya
 
Norge MKII works very well with Norge 1000 Gold. I have recently purchased it and enjoying without any regret.

MKII = 14500 + shipping
1000 Gold = 12500 + shipping
 
Norge MKII works very well with Norge 1000 Gold. I have recently purchased it and enjoying without any regret.

MKII = 14500 + shipping
1000 Gold = 12500 + shipping

I am also in delhi. if I buy norge who would service it if required, in delhi?
what about norge ultimo speakers as they have better specs? do u know the rate of this speaker?
pl post a review of the performance. pl also indicate how a sub woofer can be connected? what is your source for music?
 
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Norge MKII works very well with Norge 1000 Gold. I have recently purchased it and enjoying without any regret.

MKII = 14500 + shipping
1000 Gold = 12500 + shipping

I also want to know what is the rate of ultimo speakers as these have better specs. I think the height has been wrongly given as 880 mm in the norge site. pl indicate the height in inches of mkII. as the stated measurement appears to be incorrect.

can u post ur opinion on the performance ? do we need a sub woofer and if si how to connect it?
what is ur audio source
 
Magnificent review!!! came across the review when I was looking for comparison between Norge 1000Gold and Sonodyne SIA320, Dear Rishiguru please if possible post your views on Sonodyne too; how would you rate SIA320?
 
someone please compare the Norge 1000 and the Sonodyne SiA 320??

i am buying a new stereo system and i'd like to know as much as possible before going in for the buy..
 
Having owned Sonodynes for two decades, and coming from the same city where they are manufactured, I have dropped Sonodyne from my list permanently owing to their sloppy service and not-so-helpful demonstrators. I have found them not customer friendly. Their "I am doing you a favour by selling an amplifier" attitude simply does not work any more. There are lot of options and the world has become smaller. In the 90s people in Kolkata felt absolutely blessed to own a Sonodyne. Times have changed since. For good.

The SiA320 has a pnp-npn transistor push pull configuration which has a proven track record and is used in top of the range amplifiers like Onkyo M-5000R (with an inverted 3 stage darlington configuration). It SHOULD be a good amp.


The SiA320 has better aesthetics than the Norge 1000 Gold.

But still yet, if I were you I would have bought the Norge as Mr Bajaj provides a top-line customer support and at 82, still replies to emails and takes calls himself.

The only issue I see with Norge is they can really improve on the aesthetics of their amplifiers. I believe we all are ready to pay some extras for that. Like an brushed aluminium front panel, a digital display and gold plated banana plugs.
 
Having owned Sonodynes for two decades, and coming from the same city where they are manufactured, I have dropped Sonodyne from my list permanently owing to their sloppy service and not-so-helpful demonstrators. I have found them not customer friendly. Their "I am doing you a favour by selling an amplifier" attitude simply does not work any more. There are lot of options and the world has become smaller. In the 90s people in Kolkata felt absolutely blessed to own a Sonodyne. Times have changed since. For good.

The SiA320 has a pnp-npn transistor push pull configuration which has a proven track record and is used in top of the range amplifiers like Onkyo M-5000R (with an inverted 3 stage darlington configuration). It SHOULD be a good amp.


The SiA320 has better aesthetics than the Norge 1000 Gold.

But still yet, if I were you I would have bought the Norge as Mr Bajaj provides a top-line customer support and at 82, still replies to emails and takes calls himself.

The only issue I see with Norge is they can really improve on the aesthetics of their amplifiers. I believe we all are ready to pay some extras for that. Like an brushed aluminium front panel, a digital display and gold plated banana plugs.
 
I was just going through the review of Norge 1000 and 2060. It's all very nice. I also use Norge 1000. It's a good amp, but there is one minor problem of mild current leakage to the body of the amp. Since it has a two pin plug, I reversed position, but the leakage persists. In one position there is leakage when the amp is powered off, but leakage stops when the amp is powered on. In the other position there is leakage only when the amp is powered on. Is it normal ? If not normal, what would be the solution to this ?

Thanks in advance.
 
I was just going through the review of Norge 1000 and 2060. It's all very nice. I also use Norge 1000. It's a good amp, but there is one minor problem of mild current leakage to the body of the amp. Since it has a two pin plug, I reversed position, but the leakage persists. In one position there is leakage when the amp is powered off, but leakage stops when the amp is powered on. In the other position there is leakage only when the amp is powered on. Is it normal ? If not normal, what would be the solution to this ?

Thanks in advance.

One way to solve the issue is to use 3 pin AC cord and earth it but better solution would be to change the existing Power On switch to a DPDT switch.
 
Simply switch position of live and neutral in prong plug by rotating it by 180 deg and plug it again.
 
One way to solve the issue is to use 3 pin AC cord and earth it but better solution would be to change the existing Power On switch to a DPDT switch.
Thanks Sarith.

I have checked that connecting a wire from the body of the amp to the earth point in wall socket certainly takes away the leakage. Here another question comes up. As I had mentioned that the current leakage takes place in either way the two pin plug is used, one is when the amp switch is off and the other is when the switch is on. So if I change to 3 pin, or I simply add an earth wire, to which position should I plug the 2 pin, i.e. leakage in off position or on position, or any will do ?

Thanks again.
 
Guys, let us discuss why it happens?
You have toroidal transformer in power supply. It has primary coil wound inside over heavy core. That winding is multilayer. So one end is near core and other end is at outer layer. Now if you connect live wire from inside end then outer end is neutral and outer layer is nearing to low voltage. If you interchange live and neutral then outer primary winding layer will be at higher alternating voltage of mains.
Now over this same primary coil, you add either shield layer which could be optionally grounded or wind secondary coil. Now you have two copper conductors overlapping and creating capacitor which could couple mains frequency and 250V. Though it may not carry large current but voltage is enough to lit the tester. It is worst when live is upper layer of primary and neutral inside near core. And vice verse.
Solutions:
Either you ground internal shield layer if any or correct wire positions. Otherwise you may be having switch wrongly put on neutral wire. So in absence of ground it may couple mains to secondary side which generally 0 reference connected to chassis.
 
Thanks Sarith.

I have checked that connecting a wire from the body of the amp to the earth point in wall socket certainly takes away the leakage. Here another question comes up. As I had mentioned that the current leakage takes place in either way the two pin plug is used, one is when the amp switch is off and the other is when the switch is on. So if I change to 3 pin, or I simply add an earth wire, to which position should I plug the 2 pin, i.e. leakage in off position or on position, or any will do ?

Thanks again.

Once a earth wire is connected, any will do
 
Guys, let us discuss why it happens?
You have toroidal transformer in power supply. It has primary coil wound inside over heavy core. That winding is multilayer. So one end is near core and other end is at outer layer. Now if you connect live wire from inside end then outer end is neutral and outer layer is nearing to low voltage. If you interchange live and neutral then outer primary winding layer will be at higher alternating voltage of mains.
Now over this same primary coil, you add either shield layer which could be optionally grounded or wind secondary coil. Now you have two copper conductors overlapping and creating capacitor which could couple mains frequency and 250V. Though it may not carry large current but voltage is enough to lit the tester. It is worst when live is upper layer of primary and neutral inside near core. And vice verse.
Solutions:
Either you ground internal shield layer if any or correct wire positions. Otherwise you may be having switch wrongly put on neutral wire. So in absence of ground it may couple mains to secondary side which generally 0 reference connected to chassis.
Thanks for the detailed explaination.
After reading I opened the amp's cover yesterday night to check which wire is connected to the switch. The red wire of the power cord is connected to the switch and if the two pin plug is so used that the phase comes through the red wire and switch, then leakage takes place when amp switch is switched on. But if I reverse the two pin connection and the black wire takes on the phase directly to the transformer, then leakage takes place when amp switch is off, but stops when the amp is switched on. This is the exact position. So if you suggest grounding the internal shield, then I will take the help of some electronics technician to do it if he can or send it to the Norge factory again for the needful. Or else if you suggest just putting an earth wire to the body of the chassis, then that I can do.

Thanks.
 
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So if you suggest grounding the internal shield, then I will take the help of some electronics technician to do it if he can or send it to the Norge factory again for the needful.

If you intend on seeking help of a technician, I would suggest a easy 'hack' of swapping the default power on/off switch with a 'DPDT' switch that will shut off both the phase and neutral supply at the same time.

DPDT image:
SW-TG-SPDT-DPDT-1.JPG
 
Providing ground is easy and worth solution. It will add safety and quietness too, will take away some noise from PS.
 
Hi, I have a pair of Sonodyne Sonus 2504 speakers powered by a Denon avr 1312. I recently bought a pair of Yamaha ns 8390 floor standing speakers. Looking for a capable amp/avr for it within 20-25k maximum. Will Norge 1000 do justice to it? The yamaha site says power range of 70-270 rms for the speakers. I like my music loud and heavy on bass. Rock and Edm are my favorite genres
 
If you intend on seeking help of a technician, I would suggest a easy 'hack' of swapping the default power on/off switch with a 'DPDT' switch that will shut off both the phase and neutral supply at the same time.

DPDT image:
SW-TG-SPDT-DPDT-1.JPG
Thanks Sarith,

I will first check out with a technician if a DPDT switch can be accomodated or not, if not then I will use a DPDT switch outside the amp, leaving the amp's switch on, and perhaps also provide a grounding. Peculiarity is that the Norge guys say slight current is induced to the body because of the high power torroidal tranformer, but their service center in kolkata says that is not normal.
 
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