Are 2 way FS any better than BS?

Then, you need to write a book on this. It'll sell well. In the "fiction" category! :p
As your sarcastic skills are much better than anyone here, anything I write as answer would give another chance to go on top of it. I give up. Lets move back to the thread. I want to delete the lie I typed above. Apologies...
 
As your sarcastic skills are much better than anyone here, anything I write as answer would give another chance to go on top of it. I give up. Lets move back to the thread. I want to delete the lie I typed above. Apologies...
OK, I apologise if I came across as sarcastic - that was not my intention [some things come naturally to me...], it was an attempt at humour [misplaced?!], I should have attempted to debunk this instead.

In some way what hifitoaster said was right but also majorly incorrect in the way he put it across with his examples.

Driver's have T/S parameters. These T/S parameters determine in what volume of enclosure it will play to potential. Now, one can get a 3" driver [not all but there are many out there] to also play at 25 Hz or 30 Hz but quality will suffer, power handling will suffer and a host of other things will suffer. Will it reproduce "bass"? Yes!

Based on the driver's T/S parameters a box is designed having a particular derived volume. I can have a short deep box for the desired volume or a tall shallow box [a FS?]. Tall boxes and transmission lines? Let's not go there for this thread. One can load the driver in a enclosure having LESSER volume than optimal for that driver - it is upto the designer and his design goals for the built speaker.

So, an enclosure volume is determined by the T/S parameters of the driver one intends to load it with. Period! Like there are numerous ways to skin a cat, there are numerous ways to design the box shape for THAT volume.

Baffle diffraction? That's irrelevant to this thread about FS and BS. Diffraction is a given irrespective of whether it is a BS or FS. There's not only diffraction to deal with but a multitude of other things too in an enclosure so let's not even go there.

All this about a disconnected driver producing "current" by moving the cone, amplifiers "fighting" the said "current", compensating for sounding "tight" and "energetic", level's of vibration, running into distortion faster etc is above my understanding level - maybe hifitoaster should explain this better.

And, I promise not to be sarcastic any more in this thread. :)
 
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OK, I apologise if I came across as sarcastic - that was not my intention [some things come naturally to me...], it was an attempt at humour [misplaced?!], I should have attempted to debunk this instead.

In some way what hifitoaster said was right but also majorly incorrect in the way he put it across with his examples. Sure?

Driver's have T/S parameters. These T/S parameters determine in what volume of enclosure it will play to potential. Now, one can get a 3" driver [not all but there are many out there] to also play at 25 Hz or 30 Hz but quality will suffer, power handling will suffer and a host of other things will suffer. Will it reproduce "bass"? Yes!

Based on the driver's T/S parameters a box is designed having a particular derived volume. I can have a short deep box for the desired volume or a tall shallow box [a FS?]. Tall boxes and transmission lines? Let's not go there for this thread. One can load the driver in a enclosure having LESSER volume than optimal for that driver - it is upto the designer and his design goals for the built speaker.

So, an enclosure volume is determined by the T/S parameters of the driver one intends to load it with. Period! Like there are numerous ways to skin a cat, there are numerous ways to design the box shape for THAT volume.

Baffle diffraction? That's irrelevant to this thread about FS and BS. Diffraction is a given irrespective of whether it is a BS or FS. There's not only diffraction to deal with but a multitude of other things too in an enclosure so let's not even go there.

All this about a disconnected driver producing "current" by moving the cone, amplifiers "fighting" the said "current", compensating for sounding "tight" and "energetic", level's of vibration, running into distortion faster etc is above my understanding level - maybe hifitoaster should explain this better.

And, I promise not to be sarcastic any more in this thread. :)

I had mentioned that it was wrong. So, anyway good job fixing it. Thanks.
 
Any speaker with a large cabinet volume means it is harder to get right in terms of design. It also does not necessarily mean that a floor stander has to play lower due its large cabinet volume.

There are hundreds of ultra budget, light, 2 or 3 way floor standers out there. Crank up the gain on one of these and the cabinet may dance around. It is quite likely to sound rubbish too. You'll get lots of bass. Not good bass. I know folks who like their bass bloated. Works for them, not for me.

A KEF Q900 is a good example of a massive speaker, where you'd think the speaker has the capability to shake a room. However; that isn't the case. What it does do well is deliver accurate, controlled bass.

With a book shelf, everything is reversed. You have a small cabinet volume, smaller driver and you'll have to spend a little more time with your room to get it to sound right. As with everything, the effort put into the design will matter. While we are on the subject of stand mounts, a diminutive PMC comes to mind. I can't remember the model but it looks like the current Gold series. 5" drive and Plays down to 50Hz. With the right room set up and good equipment, a blind fold test will fool you into thinking this is a large speaker.

During my quest for a stereo, I started off with listening to floor stand speaker, heard a few stand mount speakers and finally ended up buying a stand mount. It was more expensive than all the floor stand speakers I heard and the sound was better than all of them. There was no such thing as a "bad" speaker. Each speaker I heard had their distinct qualities. I made my peace with the stand mount as it delivered the sound I was after.

A lot depends on what you are after and how much you are willing to spend. Once again; work with your budget. Every price point has something to offer. Its about finding the right speaker.
 
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From my limited experience, the room size and shape plays a great role in one determining the types (FS vs BS)

Would you be able to give any thumbrules on room size and shape vs the choice of BS/FS? Thanks.
 
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