Best ever deal for loudspeaker kits.

[exljp]

Just "pretty decent" eh?

What are your current speakers?

The current ones are Polkaudio Monitor 5 series which is around 20+ years old and still going strong.

 

[omishra]

We had a stand that sound foundations make - however, we did not use it.
The Build Quality of that stand was really nice - I was impressed.
We did not use it, just was too lazy to move my current stand, so we moved the TAD out & installed the PSB to start;
Report will be given by Magma.
Later we installed the DIY Speaker.
There were some x-over issues - as Mr. KJ pointed out.
So the Speaker was opened - things were changed - few things - Magma will give the details.
It was closed & we 're-heard' it.
That was done & speakers were changed & positions 'adjusted'
It was a good morning / afternoon that was well spent...


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It seems very long wires are used inside the box. That's why it required extra wires (red+yellow). I measured all lengths from cross-over to drivers and banana cup. It seems supplied wires are more than enough.

 

[jls001]

It seems supplied wires are more than enough.

Supplied wires (solid core, and teflon insulated - I think) is definitely sufficient. And very good.

 

[denom]

It seems very long wires are used inside the box. That's why it required extra wires (red+yellow). I measured all lengths from cross-over to drivers and banana cup. It seems supplied wires are more than enough.

Extra long wires used in this case for 'voicing' the speakers

 

[naveenkumar]

Still cabinet build is in progress, was interested to test SUB and Plate amp, I connected Sub-out of DVD player to LEF input on plate amp and played it for around 15 mins approx. I think with in 10 mins I felt the heat in the AMP.

Is it normal or am I doing something wrong with the connection.

 

[naren2512]

My sub ( GR servo sub) was on for last two hours when i read your post, right away i went to touch the amp ( from outside as my sub built is over ) and it is not hot at all.

Did you touch its outside or inside? also are you sure you have connected the right pair of wires to servo coil and speaker coil ?

For now i would suggest not to connect your sub again, i have an email from Denny explaining which pair of wires goes in servo coil and which one to speaker coil..

I should be able to pull that email in next half and hour and post the details here.

Regards,
Naren

Still cabinet build is in progress, was interested to test SUB and Plate amp, I connected Sub-out of DVD player to LEF input on plate amp and played it for around 15 mins approx. I think with in 10 mins I felt the heat in the AMP.

Is it normal or am I doing something wrong with the connection.

 

[naveenkumar]

Naren,

Thanks, mine is SW-12 and SA-1 combo. I touched outside and I was able to feel the hot.

 

[naren2512]

Hi,

I have Servo plate amp and it had two pair of wires coming out of it and below is what Denny had advised on which one should be connected to which coil of sub.

"The thin wires go to the sensing coil and the thicker wires go to the driver coil. "


My SW-12-04 had two connections for wires, one had word something like "Servo coil" written on it and other connection had something like " Speaker coil " written on it and I connected the wires as advised by Denny.

For you I think you may only have one pair of wires coming out of your amp but since you have same sub, you should make sure you are connecting wires to the Speaker coil and not servo coil and you should also connect red wire with connection marked with red color of speaker coil and black with connection of speaker coil marked with black color.

If you have already done the above then I would suggest you should wait to hear from other FMs as to if their amps are also heating up, also in the meanwhile you can drop and email to Denny he should reply back by tomorrow morning ..

Regards,
Naren

Naren,

Thanks, mine is SW-12 and SA-1 combo. I touched outside and I was able to feel the hot.

 

[captrajesh]

I connected Sub-out of DVD player to LEF input on plate amp and played it for around 15 mins approx. I think with in 10 mins I felt the heat in the AMP.

Is it normal or am I doing something wrong with the connection.

How hot is this? Were you able to place your hand and hold it or was it so hot that you had to remove your hand? If so, it is not normal and your amp is being loaded unduly. Check for the shorting of wires from the amp to the driver and also check the impedance across the driver terminals.

For you I think you may only have one pair of wires coming out of your amp but since you have same sub, you should make sure you are connecting wires to the Speaker coil and not servo coil and you should also connect red wire with connection marked with red color of speaker coil and black with connection of speaker coil marked with black color.

It is not the same sub Naren. Yours is A370PEQ Amp and driver is SW-12-04 whereas his sub is SA-1 and SW12B

 

[Danny Richie]

Hey guys,

I need a little more info on the amp heating issue. Please keep me in the loop on that stuff.

As for the Red speakers with racing stripes. Great looking speakers by the way. I want to note several things.

1) Before trying to tune the speakers with poly fill please allow them a good 100 hours of time to burn in or you may wind up going through the same process all over again.

2) Adding a resistor is going to alter more than the tweeter level. It will cause a shift in the crossover area as well. You will be altering the response in a very adverse way. They are already producing a flat frequency response.

3) If you want to reduce the energy in the upper range then move them away from the wall that they are right up against. The wall will cause a early reflection that will couple (add output) in the lower tweeter range making a peak, and it will cause cancellation in the upper tweeter range making a dip.

 

[Danny Richie]

And guys when you get your speakers completed please start a new thread on your build so that it will be easier to follow. And send me an e-mail for anything that needs my attention.

 

[Danny Richie]

On the SA-1 amp.

The LFE input will completely by-pass the crossover controls and shaping circuit. So by using it you will loose low frequency extension that you get from the transform circuit that is built in that amp. So I recommend you use the left or right input.

 

[magma]

@ Danny

yes we will have to re tune in a month - we do realise that

Also we about the resistors - you are spot on
we will be changing the out put and altering the slope
we are going to try and keep impedence same by wring in series and parallel and probably using a .2 cap
We do know we are doing this at the wrong end too
But thats DIY!

However all that is pending - as you advice
we will try later


yes moving the speaker off the rear wall has helped a whole load
thanks ( however my soundstage has got a little undone - i will work on that )

actaully even the toe in angle change is changing who we hear the tweeter


Danny what else do you have in kits ( bookshelves only )
as in the next level up ?
i have have liked the result with this one

 

[Danny Richie]

magma,

As the speakers burn in the top end will smooth out. So I would let it finish burning in and settle good before making changes.

And the room is part of the system. Changes in room treatment and speaker placement can drastically alter the sound stage, imaging, and tonal balance.

The speakers are very neutral. So after they have settled in I would turn your attention to the room and placement to tweak the sound rather than altering the speakers output to account for the rooms interaction.

And I do have mini-monitor kits that take things to another level. Here is one of them: N2X

 

[bhagwan]

Hey guys,

As for the Red speakers with racing stripes. Great looking speakers by the way. I want to note several things.

1) Before trying to tune the speakers with poly fill please allow them a good 100 hours of time to burn in or you may wind up going through the same process all over again.

2) Adding a resistor is going to alter more than the tweeter level. It will cause a shift in the crossover area as well. You will be altering the response in a very adverse way. They are already producing a flat frequency response.

3) If you want to reduce the energy in the upper range then move them away from the wall that they are right up against. The wall will cause a early reflection that will couple (add output) in the lower tweeter range making a peak, and it will cause cancellation in the upper tweeter range making a dip.

Perfect;

I would tend to agree with what ever DR has mentioned;
@ Magma - if you recall, I was never in concurrence with Jilla on the resistor idea;

a]
Burn the speaker in - pink noise - sweep for 200 ++ hours at least.

b]
Recron / Sheep Wool & Horse Hair - in pillows to be used as a stuffing - small packets in muslin fabric

c]
Place the speakers front baffle at least 24 to 36 inches from the rear wall.

d]
Toe - In etc. we will work on after the speaker is 100 % burnt in - we can always 'tame' this T26 [Peerless] tweeter - it is a fine tweeter & image height & 'density' etc. will be adjusted by us in final set up.

p.s. Are we to meet today ?

 

[navin advani]

1) Before trying to tune the speakers with poly fill please allow them a good 100 hours of time to burn in or you may wind up going through the same process all over again.

2) Adding a resistor is going to alter more than the tweeter level. It will cause a shift in the crossover area as well. You will be altering the response in a very adverse way. They are already producing a flat frequency response.

3) If you want to reduce the energy in the upper range then move them away from the wall that they are right up against. The wall will cause a early reflection that will couple (add output) in the lower tweeter range making a peak, and it will cause cancellation in the upper tweeter range making a dip.

1. Danny is right. Woofers and cone mids should be broken in a minimum of 50 hours (normally a low level warble tone can do this) before measurement and use.

2. If you want to pad the tweeter level do it between amp and crossover not between crossover and tweeter.

Toe - In etc. we will work on after the speaker is 100 % burnt in - we can always 'tame' this T26 [Peerless] tweeter - it is a fine tweeter & image height & 'density' etc. will be adjusted by us in final set up.

3. 3-4mm foam or felt strips around the tweeter can also help. Another material I like is the rougher nylon part of a velcro strip. Velcro has a 2 parts one that is softer and feels like carpet and one that is tougher and feels like nylon. Felt however is the easiest and has the best WAF esecially if you cut it like a doughnut.

 

[magma]

Perfect;

I would tend to agree with what ever DR has mentioned;
@ Magma - if you recall, I was never in concurrence with Jilla on the resistor idea;

a]
Burn the speaker in - pink noise - sweep for 200 ++ hours at least.

b]
Recron / Sheep Wool & Horse Hair - in pillows to be used as a stuffing - small packets in muslin fabric

c]
Place the speakers front baffle at least 24 to 36 inches from the rear wall.

d]
Toe - In etc. we will work on after the speaker is 100 % burnt in - we can always 'tame' this T26 [Peerless] tweeter - it is a fine tweeter & image height & 'density' etc. will be adjusted by us in final set up.

p.s. Are we to meet today ?

speakers are currently setup like this

7.25 feet apart

toed in to the shoulders

front baffle is 28 inches off the rear wall in one speaker but only 22 inchs off the rear wall for the other
(cant bring them out further)

theyve currently been soldered direct - no resistors or caps
ive got 50hrs on them
tweeter has smoothened out

seperation needs to be worked on - but that is the fault of my amp not the speaker
i know this since the accuphase had decent seperation

 

[jls001]

seperation needs to be worked on - but that is the fault of my amp not the speaker

Physical separation of speakers? Or separation of voices coming out of the speakers?

 

[Hari Iyer]

speakers are currently setup like this

7.25 feet apart

toed in to the shoulders

front baffle is 28 inches off the rear wall in one speaker but only 22 inchs off the rear wall for the other
(cant bring them out further)

theyve currently been soldered direct - no resistors or caps
ive got 50hrs on them
tweeter has smoothened out

seperation needs to be worked on - but that is the fault of my amp not the speaker
i know this since the accuphase had decent seperation

i am keen for an audition of these speakers when they are completed. Pls. let me know when i can walk in.
Cheers,

 

[jls001]

My XL-S Encore seems to be through the "trough" in its burn-in process. Everything I played last night seemed to sound like rubbish. The upper mids and highs are sounding metallic. Hope this phase doesn't last too long. At first I thought it was the songs I was playing. But the same songs on another format (was playing from PC of a Japanese pressing of an album --> changed to CD player playing an European release of the same album) sounded equally rubbish.

PS: after reading Danny's post on waiting for the mandatory 100-200 hours, I refrained from the pre-planned tweak which I was planning with magma last Saturday.