Convert a car subwoofer to home use

I would suggest you give it a try for the sake of giving it a try, I use car subs in an isobaric configuration in dual cabs and they sound good.The sub has no idea where it is being played,its specs will remain the same ,idea is to use the specs and mate the driver to a properly designed and constructed enclosure appropriate to your application.If you are worried about incabin gain ,place the sub in the corner.-3 db at 35 hertz anechoic should give you +3 db in room at the same freq, thats 6 db .Corner placement would give you more.
Using a car amp is a bit of a problem,I am not sure if the outputs of the Receiver is hot enough to power a car amp which usually runs +4dbu and up in terms of input sensitivity.
Give it a shot ,nothing ventured ,nothing gained.
Also the damned thing wants 500 watts atleast! a good plate amp and a good enclosure would diy would probably kick seven shades of snot out of anything you could buy for the same amount of dough.
I have heard this driver in a car before ,it is pretty damn good. If you are looking at it for music application then Sealed would be a good idea,but you would need to give it a substantial amount of power.Ported would do better and deeper for HT.

Remember tho ,its the enclosure design that matters ,as far as build quality is concerned ,car subwoofer drivers tend to be better built ,home drivers dont have to take the kind of regular abuse our potholes impart on the poor subs magnet couplings.I have a blaupunkt Velocity Reference Series 12 inch DVC sub that I am using for the last 10 years with no problems.I dont think my Klipschs RW12 driver would last 3 days considering its aluminium cone can be dented by a hand lightly pressing it.
Further ,drivers are optimised to be used in sealed or ported designs.Enclosure size and tuning makes the difference.Some drivers do well sealed ,some can do ported some can do both well.The enclosure they have given with the driver is a compromise, size is priority in most designs.Same with the designs of most home subs,I have seen drivers used that would be much better suited to larger enclosures.But shipping 150 litre boxes is not everyones cup of tea,hence compromise on the design ,deviate from the ideal.that is why we have SBB4 ,Quasi Butterworth and Extended bass shelf as alignments in ported designs ,allowing you to get low frequency response from smaller boxes at the compromise of excursion and subsequently power handling ,but hey you get a smaller box ;)


Also you could have a look at Crown Professional Power amps by the Harman group,the Crown XLS1000 bridged mono will be perfect as it has RCA inputs and inbuilt DSP! all for about 18k.And you get 1100 watts bridged mono at 4 ohms. Which is more than enough power to set your couch crawling across the room.
 
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Which is more than enough power to set your couch crawling across the room.

wrong advice - adhiraj.

bass and sub-bass has nothing to do with knocking the listener's socks off -

for that - kicker subs are available -

No-

for the (complete) home audio experience -

bass and sub-bass have everything to do with delicacy, subtlety, absolutely no overhang -

you talk with forked tongue-

i cannot believe that you believe your (said) post:)
 
@ Suri

Are you suggesting that 60 watts will provide enough dynamic headroom for a Sub or for that matter enough for a woofer? I find that quite ludicrous .Especially when listening at realistic volume levels.

As far as "Delicacy" and "Subtlety" goes,I do not think you will get any of those when you are clipping your poor 60 watt amp on transients. Headroom ,especially in the bass region is extremely important. Unless you listen to music at less than realistic volume levels, you will get the added "Delicacy" and "Subtlety" of clipped transients. A kick drum needs to sound and FEEL like a kick drum ,which I am afraid will not happen magically, you need headroom to effectively reproduce the complete waveform.

Suri , in audio especially Bass and in Sex ,let no women or person tell you otherwise, SIZE matters. So does power.

Besides , its all about the application , a 3000 dollar Aurasound 18inch will sound quite nasty if you have not designed the enclosure correctly or are feeding something that deserves 1000 Watts off a 6 watt SET.

Are we trying to achieve audio nirvana? No ,we are trying to do the best we can with what we have , not noble enough a quest ?
 
@ Suri

Are you suggesting that 60 watts will provide enough dynamic headroom for a Sub or for that matter enough for a woofer? I find that quite ludicrous .Especially when listening at realistic volume levels.

As far as "Delicacy" and "Subtlety" goes,I do not think you will get any of those when you are clipping your poor 60 watt amp on transients. Headroom ,especially in the bass region is extremely important. Unless you listen to music at less than realistic volume levels, you will get the added "Delicacy" and "Subtlety" of clipped transients. A kick drum needs to sound and FEEL like a kick drum ,which I am afraid will not happen magically, you need headroom to effectively reproduce the complete waveform.

Suri , in audio especially Bass and in Sex ,let no women or person tell you otherwise, SIZE matters. So does power.

Besides , its all about the application , a 3000 dollar Aurasound 18inch will sound quite nasty if you have not designed the enclosure correctly or are feeding something that deserves 1000 Watts off a 6 watt SET.

Are we trying to achieve audio nirvana? No ,we are trying to do the best we can with what we have , not noble enough a quest ?

Adhiraj -

60 watts? - no, that will not do -

for a (home-audio) sub-woofer----

for absolute control, delicacy and thrust (in a 20 by 10 BOX - aka room) - 500 watts (at 8 ohms) of ICE power is warm - 1000 watts is hot -

what is power without control?-

and when you have the POWER and the SIZE, is it your aim to make the woman crawl to the intensive care unit - bruised and defeated?

about "doing-our-best" with (car) subwoofers for the home - well, -- useless quest - and misguided - forget about noble-

perhaps- like leading a group of (mis-guided) noble lemmings off a cliff?

perhaps your aim is to make the kick drum in an ensemble resemble a 20 foot one - and a 9 foot giant with massive legs (weighing 200 kg/leg) using it? - eh?

audio nirvana? - No

more like audio wandering in search of nothing.

and strange that you now want to marry car audio to professional audio (crown) for use at home? - your belief is that there are not enough products which have been developed for home audio - that one has to go looking elsewhere?
 
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about "doing-our-best" with (car) subwoofers for the home - well, -- useless quest - and misguided - forget about noble-

Any evidence to support this ? T/s parameters of "car" sub drivers Vs. "Home" sub drivers or maybe perhaps a response analysis any hard facts from a reliable source at all?

Live music has dynamic range in excess of 120 db ,I want to make a kick drum sound like a kick drum ,not a dumroo.

And as far as marrying "Pro" Audio to "Car" Audio for "Home" use ,please give me one good reason why It cant be done.My belief is that there are not enough products in home audio that can come close to offering the Price to Performance ratio Pro Audio gives. Rs.18000 for XLS1000 which is 215 watts at 8 ohms per chanel and 1000 into 4 bridged also featuring inbuilt DSP .Oh also you can throw it out the back of a truck and expect it to still run.

"for absolute control, delicacy and thrust (in a 20 by 10 BOX - aka room) - 500 watts (at 8 ohms) of ICE power is warm - 1000 watts is hot -

what is power without control?-"

Again ,power output of an amplifier is purely a function of the input signal.500 watts to a woofer that is capable of using 500 watts nominal is ok. ideal would be 1000 watts to take care of transient peaks.

Here is a little note with regards to the above.

How much amplifier power do I need?

And ICE power? Do you mean Class D topology ,ICE power is patented Bang & Olufsen,similar to Tripath and Hypex, and not interchangeably used with Class D which is an amplifier topology.

When you mention Control what are you talking about exactly ,Damping factor, transient response , cone excursion , distortion?
 
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