DIY - Bookshelf Speakers With Peerless Tymphany Drivers

After drying of araldite and removing the clamps.

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Today I have assembled the braces of second enclosure. With limited clamps i have to wait for another step.


Awesome bro.... !!!
And yes ..... Clamps, clamps, clamps,....we need a whole lot of them !!!:D
 
Between any two grooves, there will be a flat face. So if the distance between grooves is larger, we will have larger flat surface. These flat surfaces may not hug the curved profile of the braces. So....closer the grooves, better the contact area. ..... Somewhere we have to strike a balance. My basic understanding...

Makes sense. Will try Sadik's method in that case. Thanks.

what are the advantages of curved sides.. will it be different if we have a regular rectangular box with the same volume?

For a slim front baffle like this there would be almost no perciveble difference I think. Curved sides look sexy
 
Todays Update

Assembled Top and Bottom Sheet
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Also started to fill the grooves with Mixture of Araldite and Saw Dust.
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Sadik

Super Bro... I thought the too & bottom are going to sit above and below the side panels. :)

And by the way...where did you buy those band clamps???

I bought them in local market, but they are flimsy and are nearly useless
 
I will glue another top and bottom panel of 12 mm thickness after gluing the Front and Back panels and flush trim its border with respect to Sides, Front & Back panels so that it wont look messy and cover up all the grooves of side panels.

& those Band Clamps i Purchased them locally. They are really good for clamping purpose on curved surfaces.
 
Very slow progress going on as I am busy with my office work. Today sanded both the enclosures. Secondly filling the grooves with mixture of Araldite and saw dust didn't work out good. I will now try mixture fevicol SH and saw dust.

Below are photos of today's work done.
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Sadik
 
what are the advantages of curved sides.. will it be different if we have a regular rectangular box with the same volume?

For a slim front baffle like this there would be almost no perciveble difference I think. Curved sides look sexy
Curved cabinets have a greater purpose; to minimise internal resonances. Parallel walls give rise to resonances of sound frequencies that have full/ half/ quarter wavelength between those surfaces.


I used to wonder if curved surfaces could be made by making 'V' shaped grooves of appropriate angle so that the both surfaces join together after the bending which could be made permanent by applying fevicol/ araldite and clamped till it dries. Since you were using CNC machines, it was QED. Have you considered that option?
 
Curved cabinets have a greater purpose; to minimise internal resonances. Parallel walls give rise to resonances of sound frequencies that have full/ half/ quarter wavelength between those surfaces.



I used to wonder if curved surfaces could be made by making 'V' shaped grooves of appropriate angle so that the both surfaces join together after the bending which could be made permanent by applying fevicol/ araldite and clamped till it dries. Since you were using CNC machines, it was QED. Have you considered that option?
Theorically it should work. But not easy I'm guessing. The resulting curvature will be a function of groove angle, number of grooves, distance between grooves. Hard to estimate all these accurately.

Secondly, sharp v grooves are easy to make in a metal piece by using a shaper machine. But I dout if a sharp v shaped drill bit is available at cnc guys. That too, with an angle we need.

And another point is, bend at each groove may look a bit sharp (like a line) on the outer surface, instead of a gradual bend.

Just my taughts and some are guess work.
 
V shaped grooves can be made using a good quality table saw with adjustable high precision blade angle. This will require time and patience.

I believe without cnc that can be achieved
For this method, CNC not needed. We have to slide the workpiece against the blade multiple times, and each time, we have to slide it sidewards to the excat distance.

Basically captrajesh idea is good if we can practically impliment. I think the groove angle should be very less. May be around 4 to 5 degrees. Even a circular blade may not come with a very sharp edge. It will have atleast 1 or 2 mm thickness.
 
For this method, CNC not needed. We have to slide the workpiece against the blade multiple times, and each time, we have to slide it sidewards to the excat distance.
Not worth the effort IMO, it would be much easier to fill the gaps with saw dust and fevicol which will act as reinforcement as well.
 
It's not an easy task to bend the MDF into a curve surface, even after making this grooves it was still hard to bend, at some point I felt that it will break apart.

Even if i would have opted for "V" grooves then still the problem will be the availability of right shape & size tool with such a small angle and a long tip. The cutting deep should be at least 12 mm long when using with 18mm thick MDF. The Tip should be pointed and at 12 mm height it should be 3mm thick. I guess there is no such tool available.

I also guess that @Naveenbnc may be right "Bend at each groove may look a bit sharp (like a line) on the outer surface, instead of a gradual bend."

Today's update is that, I had filled the grooves of one enclosure with mixture of Fevicol SH & saw dust it worked out very well. Tomorrow i will complete the second one too.
 
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