DIY - Sealed Subwoofer's (External powered)..

Thank you so much @danielnaveen2003 .. One of the specification of the sub had 1.25 cuft for sealed enclosure.. So i assumed, it will work in an enclosure.. But, open baffle subwoofer is interesting.. Does this also mean this driver would mean more power required if used in open baffle?..
It's the other way around. Open baffle woofers can't handle too much power. To do an OB sub you will need 2 of them wired up in opposite polarity otherwise they will end up cancelling each other. OB is the most complex route out for you. Try to find a woofer that will work in a ported box Qts < .4

Thanks for the explanation. Didn't try winisd though I found an android app "speaker box lite" which was quite helpful with graphs and all. Will try winisd too.
The image did open but was barely readable. The one you posted in recent post was easy to read.

What is your final objective? To prove that a car sub can be used at home. Or to build a DIY sub? It'll help figure out what you need to be looking for.
 
What is your final objective? To prove that a car sub can be used at home. Or to build a DIY sub? It'll help figure out what you need to be looking for.
My final objective is using my car sub and amp in my room as I don't use the car often now. And if need be it can transferred back to the car easily. Also if I like it I might keep it as primary sub for home. But I wouldn't have much time for a diy for another two months. So it's just the thinking process right now.
 
If size doesn't matters you then 176 ltr internal volume of sealed enclosure will be very good for this Pioneer Woofer. If you want to make it Cube then go for 600 x 600 x 600 mm outer dimensions with 18 mm ply. The enclosure should have proper & heavy bracing or else there will be vibrations which can create resonance. What ever the volume is occupied by bracing, should be covered by changing the external sizes. Suppose your bracing is consuming approx 5 ltrs of internal volume then the outer dimensions to be adjusted accordingly to cover up the loss of 5 ltrs used by braces.

Damping should be Heavy.

Below is the graph i got with a design software.
wwA1JQEHGpw-ZYqveKQvG4nMYDW0w5q9ZB6EVEVxCheIyPmUvmAfTPPz5Sekt-bEvxswbxMCH7_WDq-PyCnatZ86I3-IyBw5EPX43SCsLkvrFCjRM6kJnTN4Fu7Sn4YpP4kfGaAcJqJe1CXVksXemkK_HqVLu1NmUVg56hpRQsegPlDNZ3TUOyxZVasQmvVytBHZy7MjYbJ60gcSrOsMJfBREigpwdRcg1gIXxbHb0JwJENXSB2261c-w3MsreP4SNKvxjNXA7MUik9d9GW1yNp_U_sui2GD7nf_JedHrQtr4rBJKIcq0IkBCBXyKGgdM57pE4t1s2x3kvTBF5om298LnWxUVUAAWE0ZhRMrVZCD6UcrX_6JwVUCHgfHtynhLR_6dOo1603bWJAhttGMLYFffzQc_YeErOoXtXXn8Iq1xM4VWPdNj7Wvq9BDzjHzmbw7rBHfjiFuGZVVJt2vPX_5gUlUEp492yoLt4iaehBJNf1k83lntNnc9kGNsADVBGZxJWkPXjvyiztFHnq3bY8U0FaexNFMPse0JyMHDPGhU1Gt5VbeuTIEvOTYDqefptX7OWtEgIdHoMhrTJ3Ro-xQIAu11fihWOf6Htc=w1609-h805-no

Sadik
 
It's the other way around. Open baffle woofers can't handle too much power. To do an OB sub you will need 2 of them wired up in opposite polarity otherwise they will end up cancelling each other. OB is the most complex route out for you. Try to find a woofer that will work in a ported box Qts < .4

Would 100 Watts of power be sufficient for OB subwoofer?.. When you say 2 of them reqd for opposite polarity, i assume that the first should be connected the normal way & the 2nd sub should be connected with reverse polarity..Plz correct me if my understanding is wrong..

I will also check for other alternate subwoofer driver..

If size doesn't matters you then 176 ltr internal volume of sealed enclosure will be very good for this Pioneer Woofer. If you want to make it Cube then go for 600 x 600 x 600 mm outer dimensions with 18 mm ply. The enclosure should have proper & heavy bracing or else there will be vibrations which can create resonance. What ever the volume is occupied by bracing, should be covered by changing the external sizes. Suppose your bracing is consuming approx 5 ltrs of internal volume then the outer dimensions to be adjusted accordingly to cover up the loss of 5 ltrs used by braces.

Damping should be Heavy.

Below is the graph i got with a design software.

Sadik

Thank you @sadik for the details..Size shouldn't be a problem as the room size is 22 x 11.. Am new to subwoofer build.. What material would you suggest for internal bracing of subs?.. I will check on its availability locally in my town.. Would an adhesive sealant work for sealing the joints & corners.. (the ones used by carpenters)..

The stereo power amplifier that i have, has no physical gain control function.. Which means i need to live with AVR's subwoofer trim level.. ( -12 dB to + 12 dB).. My understanding is that if a normal speakers trim can be adjusted using power amplifier, so should the (passive) subwoofer too..

Would this be a cause of concern?..
 
Would 100 Watts of power be sufficient for OB subwoofer?.. When you say 2 of them reqd for opposite polarity, i assume that the first should be connected the normal way & the 2nd sub should be connected with reverse polarity..Plz correct me if my understanding is wrong..

I will also check for other alternate subwoofer driver..

Yes that is correct on the polarity. I think you need to finalize on sealed vs ported based on the merits of each system and your typical usage, then zero in on the subwoofer.

If going sealed i would recommend something like a dayton ultimax or a similar woofer with an xmax of 18mm or more and a powerful amp to go with it. Only then will you be able to reap the benefit of a sealed sub without sacrificing the bottom end response down to 20 hz which will be needed for movies.
 
Just from my personal experience, car subwoofer drivers are not good for home theatres. Im planning to buy a home subwoofer driver.
 
Yes that is correct on the polarity. I think you need to finalize on sealed vs ported based on the merits of each system and your typical usage, then zero in on the subwoofer.

If going sealed i would recommend something like a dayton ultimax or a similar woofer with an xmax of 18mm or more and a powerful amp to go with it. Only then will you be able to reap the benefit of a sealed sub without sacrificing the bottom end response down to 20 hz which will be needed for movies.

Are there any other drivers from other brands that are locally aval in India for say 5K?..

Just from my personal experience, car subwoofer drivers are not good for home theatres. Im planning to buy a home subwoofer driver.

Sure.. Am only evaluating inexpensive options..
 
Thank you @sadik for the details..Size shouldn't be a problem as the room size is 22 x 11.. Am new to subwoofer build.. What material would you suggest for internal bracing of subs?.. I will check on its availability locally in my town.. Would an adhesive sealant work for sealing the joints & corners.. (the ones used by carpenters)..

The stereo power amplifier that i have, has no physical gain control function.. Which means i need to live with AVR's subwoofer trim level.. ( -12 dB to + 12 dB).. My understanding is that if a normal speakers trim can be adjusted using power amplifier, so should the (passive) subwoofer too..

Would this be a cause of concern?..

You can use Plywood for internal Bracing. Search on google how Bracing is done in enclosures to have a proper idea. You can use "Fevicol SH" or Araldite for gluing the plywood. Do not use MDF for Sub woofer Enclosure it is not recommended.
 
Are there any other drivers from other brands that are locally aval in India for say 5K?..

5k is a tough budget for a sub that will perform in a sealed box. But since this is your first diy sub project you should also have a bit of fun doing it. So get two of those pioneers and build a open baffle sub, bridge the sonodyne and power it up. See how it performs.
 
5k is a tough budget for a sub that will perform in a sealed box. But since this is your first diy sub project you should also have a bit of fun doing it. So get two of those pioneers and build a open baffle sub, bridge the sonodyne and power it up. See how it performs.
I would say instead of pioneer he could go with the polk one which I own. He could get it for little less than 5k after Cashback on paytm. I have heard the budget offering from pioneer in a friend's car and own polk myself and IMO polk is a better performer with less boomy noise and more punch. Also the polk as you said would be suitable for ported enclosure.
Check out this product on Paytm!
https://paytm.com/shop/p/polk-db-12...ers-720-watt-AUTPOLK-DB-1240AUTO9075346A8AAA2
 
5k is a tough budget for a sub that will perform in a sealed box. But since this is your first diy sub project you should also have a bit of fun doing it. So get two of those pioneers and build a open baffle sub, bridge the sonodyne and power it up. See how it performs.

Ok.. I have stereo power amplifier and if i bridge it, it becomes mono and can power only one sub.. But you are suggesting me to get two of the drivers.. Did i miss something ?..

Here is some image, i googled for open baffle subwoofer -
image.php


If the image is incorrect, could you share an image or link to image for understanding..

I would say instead of pioneer he could go with the polk one which I own. He could get it for little less than 5k after Cashback on paytm. I have heard the budget offering from pioneer in a friend's car and own polk myself and IMO polk is a better performer with less boomy noise and more punch. Also the polk as you said would be suitable for ported enclosure.
Check out this product on Paytm!
https://paytm.com/shop/p/polk-db-12...ers-720-watt-AUTPOLK-DB-1240AUTO9075346A8AAA2

Actually i took the Pioneer driver as an example, just to check if it is suitable for sealed enclosure.. But it turned out to be open air subwoofer.. so suggestion for open baffle subwoofer..
 
Ok.. I have stereo power amplifier and if i bridge it, it becomes mono and can power only one sub.. But you are suggesting me to get two of the drivers.. Did i miss something ?..

Here is some image, i googled for open baffle subwoofer -
image.php


If the image is incorrect, could you share an image or link to image for understanding..



Actually i took the Pioneer driver as an example, just to check if it is suitable for sealed enclosure.. But it turned out to be open air subwoofer.. so suggestion for open baffle subwoofer..

That is more of a picture a a OB speaker than a subwoofer.

An OB sub can be built either like this

http://www.linkwitzlab.com/woofer.htm

or like this

http://www.linkwitzlab.com/proto.htm

Yes the amp has to be bridged as these two sub drivers will be a part of one subwoofer, you will need 2 as you running both in reverse polarity to move most wave cancellations to the side rather than the front.

the subs will have to be wired in parallel or series in opposite polarity, or mounted in opposite directions physically as seen in the second example.
 
hi elangoas,

I Would suggest you to go for an home sub,i i have built one as in profile pic with bracing - peerless 12in powered by forti 250w RMS plate amp,you can refer my thread,They sound good (ported or sealed).

The price is around 4500, and plate amp around 7500/.

rajesh
 
if it helps, i did something similar using Infinity Reference 1260W in approx 3.7 CFT ported enclosure tuned to 23 hz, driven by a 300 W Class AB Amp.

For movies it sounds very good, with usable content starting 18hz. Only issue was boominess, which was tamed using polfill.

Thanks
Harsha
 
Now, considering Home audio subwoofer drivers from Peerless & IWAI.. Peerless has 15inch subwoofer driver.. Please share recent prices of subwoofer drivers if anyone got it recently, also contact details..

Any insights if cylindrical enclosure for a subwoofer aval locally?.. Any drawbacks of if that will be a sealed enclosure?..
 
Those 2 will be hard to find. If you want to go cylindrical then you may also consider pro audio subwoofers. They have a stiffer suspension so can be installed in down firing configuration and dont need much power for a given SPL. For cylinder, just use laminate sheets and do multiple layers. Its simple and very much DIYable. YOu only need the top and bottom flat disks from a carpenter, and of course the driver mounting hole
 
For cylinder, just use laminate sheets and do multiple layers. Its simple and very much DIYable.

Sorry.. Didn't get this.. When you said multiple layers, did you mean to roll the laminate many times so that it could be used as cylindrical enclosure..
 
For excellent sound that won't break the bank, the 5 Star Award Winning Wharfedale Diamond 12.1 Bookshelf Speakers is the one to consider!
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