DIY THT LP SubWoofer Build using 15" Dayton Reference

Good work Sajith, it's coming out really nice. Are you planning to commission it on the new year party.... :thumbsup: ?

Thanks..
Lets see...
I will be driving it for a few days with one side panel without applying glue (only on screws) for testing. Once everything is properly tested, I will close that one also permanently because a simple fault will make the entire build void and no way to reach the inner folds for rectifying it.
 
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Silicone sealant works well for sealing the joints. You *must* seal the cabinet or it will perform poorly. I recently built another sub and used both fevicol marine and silicone sealant for glue/sealant and it worked very well. PL is excellent but must be imported and is rather nasty, gloves and masks required in my experience. The disclaimer on the tube is not very comforting.

Remember to add some form of DSP for EQ, crossovers and delay/phase. Horn subs perform best with it. The low power amp should do well to not damage the driver though with a bit more power you could get a bit more output out of it. If your listening levels are indeed just 90-95db at LP I think you will be satisfied with the output for moderate rooms. The THT is a great choice for good performance on a budget and I would like to hear your impressions and see measurements if you could take some.

Nice to see people building horn subs in India.
 
Takeoff? I would venture to say "Blast off"! BTW, I know there are some CDs available commercially with some really nice LF audio content for subs-like planes, rockets taking off etc..

Anyone know about some of these?
 
Silicone sealant works well for sealing the joints. You *must* seal the cabinet or it will perform poorly. I recently built another sub and used both fevicol marine and silicone sealant for glue/sealant and it worked very well. PL is excellent but must be imported and is rather nasty, gloves and masks required in my experience. The disclaimer on the tube is not very comforting.

Remember to add some form of DSP for EQ, crossovers and delay/phase. Horn subs perform best with it. The low power amp should do well to not damage the driver though with a bit more power you could get a bit more output out of it. If your listening levels are indeed just 90-95db at LP I think you will be satisfied with the output for moderate rooms. The THT is a great choice for good performance on a budget and I would like to hear your impressions and see measurements if you could take some.

Nice to see people building horn subs in India.

I tried the silicon from Dr Fixit, but i was not satisfied with that as it can be easily removed by scratching it with nail. So I tried with fevicol and it works.
 
Takeoff? I would venture to say "Blast off"! BTW, I know there are some CDs available commercially with some really nice LF audio content for subs-like planes, rockets taking off etc..

Anyone know about some of these?

There are recordings available of the space shuttle though I don't have the link right now.

I tried the silicon from Dr Fixit, but i was not satisfied with that as it can be easily removed by scratching it with nail. So I tried with fevicol and it works.

That is the best way to remove silicone sealant and usually the only effective way short of strong commercial solvents. Rest assured it works very well if you use a thick generous layer. Fevicol is the same in that it becomes rubber like but it is not as thick as silicone sealant, it is also more of an adhesive but in liberal doses can be used as a sealant. I prefer to use both since it adds two layers.

You can also try using a paste of sawdust and fevicol. I used that to seal the
inner joints on my Sachiko.

In my experience sawdust with fevicol does not work as well as sealant/fevicol. This method is most often used by local carpenters/speaker builders because it is cheaper than using lots of fevicol or a combination of fevicol and sealant.
 
You can also try using a paste of sawdust and fevicol. I used that to seal the
inner joints on my Sachiko.

Yes, sawdust+fevicol or a metal paste + hardener can also be used as an alternative, but I dont recommend them as sealants as it becomes harder liker araldite\mseal and there are chances of breaking at the joints if there is any slight warping due to any reasons (since it is an mdf). Its better always use a rubbery kind of material for sealants. The sawdust method is a common way of rectifying the faults in carpentry and is very effective also (dont under estimate it), once sanded, it will be similar to mdf. I have used it to fill some screw holes.
 
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Finally its the party time.:yahoo::yahoo::yahoo:

Tried Sheryl Crow live album DVD, WTF :eek::eek::eek: (sorry, couldn't control myself), am I sitting right at the middle of the concert??? It was literally shaking my apartment (DONT EVEN TELL ME TO CORNER LOAD IT). I think I need to replace the false ceiling and the screen housing box (needs reinforcement as some of the cross section pieces were vibrating). Another main issue is that there are some metal frames at the roof of the apartment and they are also vibrating like hell, probably i will be asked to fix all the loose joints in my apartment block.:mad::mad::mad:

Final stages photos (more photos to come)

Driver (THT back side)
Did a few changes to the original plan for adding more strength and stiffness to the cabinet.
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Horn Mouth:
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Placement experiments:
- Below the screen as a dummy AV cabinet.
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Woah! Awesome :clapping:

Insane build Sajith...am feeling sorry for the neighbours already :D

Will drop by this weekend if you are around...
 
Real Industrial Class build!!!! Hopefully your apartment is also one !!!!

Nice build Sajith and I think teh results are there for you to hear !:clapping:
 
Sajith, quick note. The cover of the compression chamber (where the driver sits), if you can at this stage please use a rubber gasket and seal. Even ordinary cycle rubber tube (used) will work very well, just cut to the shape of the panel ~ 1-2cm width.

Fixing air leaks plays a big part in getting it 'horny' . Enjoy !
 
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