sachi
Active Member
So we get three wires.
Red is negative
black is Positive.
blue-green is earth wire ??
Am i right ?
No the earth wire goes from the earth pin to star/chassis ground of your circuit.
So we get three wires.
Red is negative
black is Positive.
blue-green is earth wire ??
Am i right ?
so what to do with blue -green combi wire ?
Are you sure you haven't fried it?
You have to troubleshoot things one step at a time. I am not responsible for any damage - you should ideally take it to somebody in your city who's done this before. However, if you accept the risks, you can read on and see if you would like to attempt some basic troubleshooting steps.
Do you have a coaxial/optical source to test with? I'd like to know if the silence is because of the USB board and some connection issues, or the entire DAC is silent. Some tube circuits take time to power up. SMD chips are easy to short out, and re-check that you've soldered everything the right way around. check it six times.
Assuming you have checked everything seven times...
Obviously the board has power, so you need to work out if there is any analog output at all, and where it terminates.
The first step is to check if the PCM1798 has a valid analog signal at the output. Disconnect the tube with the DAC switched off. It is not necessary to reset the jumpers just yet.
Keep the amp volume very, very low. I would not venture past two clicks from the zero position. Amplifier should be in power off position at this time. Power up your sources. Preferably have two sources playing, one connected to optical/coax and the other to USB. Keep them powered up.
Now, disconnect the 'live' output wire from the output RCAs at the board. This will give you an RCA socket with two wires, one connected to ground and the other hanging in free air. Don't worry about the other channel just yet.
Trace the output path from the PCM1798 (look at the datasheet - there will be four such pins - L+, L-, R+ and R-). Solder the hanging wire from our previous step to one of the outputs (does not matter which, but don't solder on the chip itself, trace it to the next available pad and solder it there...) and power up the DAC. At this time, put your two sources in 'Play' mode, and after two minutes, power up the amp.
If there is still no output - the output here may be very faint and distorted, but it does not matter - your DAC chip is fried, or may be missing some critical setting, usually jumpers are used in standalone mode to 'program' the DACs. Look at the datasheets. There are three blank jumpers in front of one of the chips. They may be used for mode control and user settings. Look at the chip documentation and the papers that come with your DAC.
The PCM 27xx has an analog output, test that next - but you will also have to connect the ground wire to it as the analog ground may not be shared between the two boards. The PCM27xx is not doing analog duty in this application, some creativity may be required to hear whether it will work (I strongly suspect it will be working).
Good luck. Eventually the best course of action is to work with the seller as they know what it takes to get it working. Post on the Head-Fi site (or wherever you saw the references) and post for follow-up help - people who've built this earlier will know of familiar pitfalls. Doing more by remote will be very very difficult for me, as I can't diagnose something sitting so far away.
I guess your brother fixed things right up for youReally good to have a short-circuit proof regulator (most are, not all though).
Just for information, was the bad soldering done by you, or was it on the chips the seller soldered?