My third build: Swope MTM version by Mr. Paul Carmody

[Jeanpher]

Hello Everyone,

As to the next step in DIY hobby, I have decided to build 2-way bookshelf. I started searching for a proven design, most difficult thing is to get the parts used in the proven designs which is very difficult in Indian market. First I decided to go for parts express C-Note, suddenly waveguide tweeter gone out of stock in India, which put fullstop in that plan. Later after extensive searching I found Swope MTM is the design to go as my next project (parts available in India).

(Initially my plan was to go for TM version of the Swope which is simple and good for a beginner like me, After ordering and post receiving all the parts somehow I decide to go for MTM version and take the challenge. So bought another pair of drivers and its related crossover components.
I am planning to sell the unwanted unused crossover components in a separate sale thread, please look at it as well...

So now it is Swope MTM

I didn't find any thread for the same, but if someone has tried it before please give your valuable feedback...

I am attaching related documents and links for the design.

1. Direct link to designer page here
2. Build thread by Designer here

 

[sashijoseph]

Hi Jeanpher,
Carmody's voicing typically recesses the mids just a tad so you're not easily fatigued.
The bass I'm sure will be a surprise.

Good luck for your build.

 

[Mahi]

Hello Everyone,

As to the next step in DIY hobby, I have decided to build 2-way bookshelf. I started searching for a proven design, most difficult thing is to get the parts used in the proven designs which is very difficult in Indian market. First I decided to go for parts express C-Note, suddenly waveguide tweeter gone out of stock in India, which put fullstop in that plan. Later after extensive searching I found Swope MTM is the design to go as my next project (parts available in India).

(Initially my plan was to go for TM version of the Swope which is simple and good for a beginner like me, After ordering and post receiving all the parts somehow I decide to go for MTM version and take the challenge. So bought another pair of drivers and its related crossover components.
I am planning to sell the unwanted unused crossover components in a separate sale thread, please look at it as well...

So now it is Swope MTM

I didn't find any thread for the same, but if someone has tried it before please give your valuable feedback...

I am attaching related documents and links for the design.

1. Direct link to designer page here
2. Build thread by Designer here

Very nice looking speakers sir # you connect with pre & power amplifier combination or integrated amplifier??

 

[Jeanpher]

Very nice looking speakers sir # you connect with pre & power amplifier combination or integrated amplifier??

Thank you Yes indeed, but that was not made by me, I am yet to build it, parts received, yet to make the enclosure. No right now I have AVR to power it.

 

[Mahi]

Thank you for your valuable reply sir

 

[Jeanpher]

Update: I have finalized HDF material for the enclosure. Bought half sheet (4X4) of 18MM HDF. I have prepared the cut list. Will cut tomorrow..

 

[Jeanpher]

I have received the parts in good condition looks cool and HDF has been cut as per cutlist too

 

[sadik]

HDF is very hard to work with. Pre drill holes if you are going to use nails or screws. I wonder what the blade may have gone through i can see some burnt marks on the cuts. Also some cuts are not upto the standard. (The third baffle from top)

 

[Jeanpher]

HDF is very hard to work with. Pre drill holes if you are going to use nails or screws. I wonder what the blade may have gone through i can see some burnt marks on the cuts. Also some cuts are not upto the standard. (The third baffle from top)

Yes it is lesson learned. Yes I am going to use nails, bcoz I dont have clamps, Ok I will pre drill holes. Burnt marks are from the circular wood cutter, may be time to change blade.
I dont have a table saw, so to get the same width in all pieces is near to impossible with wood cutter. So I tried to route the edges with trim bit using one of the piece as template, all came good except one which slipped doing it. I may replace with another piece.

Thanks Sadik for your comments, I have difficulty finding quality (but not too expensive) router bits and blades, Could you please help me?

 

[Hiten]

I have difficulty finding quality (but not too expensive) router bits and blades, Could you please help me?

This is one expensive hobby bro. As for quality bits and blades. If you plan to be prolific DIYer invest in quality tools. Otherwise for one off job cheap chinese may do the work. When brand new, these cheap tools do work nice. you can divide the work also. I mean for finishing job new tools and for other regular stuff old tools/blades etc. Just sharing personal thoughts. As I have very little experience in actual work.

You are doing good.
Regards and all the best.

 

[sadik]

Thanks Sadik for your comments, I have difficulty finding quality (but not too expensive) router bits and blades, Could you please help me?

Quality is always expensive.

 

[Jeanpher]

Update: Last Sunday, I got some time to put together the one of the enclosure. Without clamps it was very difficult job keep it in place(square) when drilling and screwing. Somehow with my brothers help, I could put it together. Waiting for next Sunday.

 

[Jeanpher]

Update: I got some time this week, so I have put together the other enclosure too except the baffle, even I trimmed the edges using the router. it looks like only a minor sanding necessary later.



I have decided to use a double-layer baffle, done the cutout too.



Just the speaker holes to be routed, experts tips to do so are most welcome. The dry fit looks perfect.


There is so much sawdust in my house, So I need to complete this soon before being kicked out of the house.
Using a router without proper workplace and gears was a bad idea, should have taken it to a carpenter.

There is heavy continuous rain in our place(Kanyakumari) so there is often power failure, which again slows down my progress. Hope it will be better tomorrow.

So far so good thank you for looking.

Regards
Jean

 

[arunkvivek]

Update: I got some time this week, so I have put together the other enclosure too except the baffle, even I trimmed the edges using the router. it looks like only a minor sanding necessary later.
I have decided to use a double-layer baffle, done the cutout too.
Just the speaker holes to be routed, experts tips to do so are most welcome. The dry fit looks perfect.
There is so much sawdust in my house, So I need to complete this soon before being kicked out of the house.
Using a router without proper workplace and gears was a bad idea, should have taken it to a carpenter.
There is heavy continuous rain in our place(Kanyakumari) so there is often power failure, which again slows down my progress. Hope it will be better tomorrow.
So far so good thank you for looking.
Regards
Jean

Looks lovely.

1. Double-layer baffle - chamfering on the rear is imporant for woofer to breath is what I have read on many forums.
2. Sawdust - I know MDF is pathetic when it comes to sawdust. how about HDF? any better? I have an XKI build in the radar. I have some rubberwood fingerjoint sheets available. But, unable to decide whether it would be HDF or these processed wood. Would love to learn from your experience.
3. If you have a router, cutting holes should be breeze as long as you nail down the center of the circle correctly and workpiece is firmly held in place. I did a pilot hole on front baffle edges, screwed it to the box and the cut the circles. I did screw up by using screw for the locking the center instead of a nail. The jig started to wobble after a couple of passes and the circle became slightly elliptical . Going to rely on gasket tapes to reduce the wobble.Thankfully all the speakers that I doing now are surrounds and atmos (on 12mm ply sheets).. so not much of a worry about achieving a square or exact same volume on identical speakers. But, for serious builds, I would consider using dowels to get the square alignment in the absence of clamps.

 

[Jeanpher]

Looks lovely.

1. Double-layer baffle - chamfering on the rear is imporant for woofer to breath is what I have read on many forums.
2. Sawdust - I know MDF is pathetic when it comes to sawdust. how about HDF? any better? I have an XKI build in the radar. I have some rubberwood fingerjoint sheets available. But, unable to decide whether it would be HDF or these processed wood. Would love to learn from your experience.
3. If you have a router, cutting holes should be breeze as long as you nail down the center of the circle correctly and workpiece is firmly held in place. I did a pilot hole on front baffle edges, screwed it to the box and the cut the circles. I did screw up by using screw for the locking the center instead of a nail. The jig started to wobble after a couple of passes and the circle became slightly elliptical . Going to rely on gasket tapes to reduce the wobble.Thankfully all the speakers that I doing now are surrounds and atmos (on 12mm ply sheets).. so not much of a worry about achieving a square or exact same volume on identical speakers. But, for serious builds, I would consider using dowels to get the square alignment in the absence of clamps.

Chamfering- Yes I have read too, will do it. Thank you.

HDF is the same when comes to sawdust plus it is very hard to work with, my bits and blades have almost worn out. My suggestion would be MDF. Good luck with the XKI build.

Yes, I have made the holes with the router, I have a circle jig that comes with the tool, but again so much sawdust and I have to take 5 to 6 passes to cut through double-layer HDF. I have made some mistakes too like forgot to lock the depth couple of times, Will fix it with wood filler or putty.



Do you have any thread on your surround and atmos build? I would be happy to know the detail of your design.

Thanks
Jean

 

[sadik]

Going good Bro... This experience will teach you a lot of things. Your next built will be better than this.

 

[Hiten]

Looking good Jean. After finish it will look lovely.

Chamfering- Yes I have read too, will do it. Thank you.

I guess chamfering will probably have very negligible effect. I am not sure but it depends on driver placement and specific driver.

Here is rounded edge and straight edge measurements. Almost no difference.
https://www.audiosciencereview.com/...gby-mandolin-speaker.16107/page-3#post-782242
Regards

 

[Bizi05]

Chamfering- Yes I have read too, will do it. Thank you.

HDF is the same when comes to sawdust plus it is very hard to work with, my bits and blades have almost worn out. My suggestion would be MDF. Good luck with the XKI build.

Yes, I have made the holes with the router, I have a circle jig that comes with the tool, but again so much sawdust and I have to take 5 to 6 passes to cut through double-layer HDF. I have made some mistakes too like forgot to lock the depth couple of times, Will fix it with wood filler or putty.

View attachment 57101

Do you have any thread on your surround and atmos build? I would be happy to know the detail of your design.

Thanks
Jean

Looking good so far. What is the finish you have planned for ? Paint or Veneer finish

 

[Jeanpher]

Looking good so far. What is the finish you have planned for ? Paint or Veneer finish

Thank you, Haven't decided yet, most probably paint.

Looking good Jean. After finish it will look lovely.

I guess chamfering will probably have very negligible effect. I am not sure but it depends on driver placement and specific driver.

Here is rounded edge and straight edge measurements. Almost no difference.
https://www.audiosciencereview.com/...gby-mandolin-speaker.16107/page-3#post-782242
Regards

Thank you,

Maybe, but for this design, it is necessary because first, the driver doesn't fit due to terminals protruding out, and second, there is no space for the woofer to breathe.

 

[Jeanpher]

I have done chamfering and lined the wall with acoustic felt