N2X Bookshelves

[Gijo George]

Hi Guys
Trying to assemble the N2X kit from GR Research. XO's are ready with the first one done by Borg. Cabinets will be ready by today evening for painting. Giving it to a paint shop to get the Piano black finish. Few pics given below.

View attachment 5657

Need some advise on the soldering. Is the above soldering fine or do I need to redo it.

View attachment 5658

View attachment 5659

View attachment 5660

View attachment 5661

Thanks

 

[Gijo George]

Sorry. That question for soldering applies to the last two pics. I know it looks bad. There is contact between the points required. Except that it isn't done with finesse being my first time.

 

[sachu888]

Sorry. That question for soldering applies to the last two pics. I know it looks bad. There is contact between the points required. Except that it isn't done with finesse being my first time.

Yes,soldering doesn't look good.Please follow this guide for soldering
http://www.tvbgone.com/images/mfaire/soldercomic.jpg

How to Solder : CuriousInventor Guides

Regards,
Sachin

 

[Gijo George]

One XO done by HFV member Borg came out fine as can be expected from him.
The one you see was done by me . All the other solder joints on that XO came out fine. Except this one coz it had four wires (inductor & cap leads and 2 speaker) in a cluster. Tied a small flexible copper wire around the four to hold it in place before welding it. But didn't get it right.
THanks once again for that link.
Need to search for ways to de-solder that to rework on it. If you already have some link on how to de-solder please do post it.
Thanks

 

[sachu888]

One XO done by HFV member Borg came out fine as can be expected from him.
The one you see was done by me . All the other solder joints on that XO came out fine. Except this one coz it had four wires (inductor & cap leads and 2 speaker) in a cluster. Tied a small flexible copper wire around the four to hold it in place before welding it. But didn't get it right.
THanks once again for that link.
Need to search for ways to de-solder that to rework on it. If you already have some link on how to de-solder please do post it.
Thanks

You just have to melt the solder with very hot solder gun.

Regards,
Sachin

 

[sasmit]

One XO done by HFV member Borg came out fine as can be expected from him.
The one you see was done by me . All the other solder joints on that XO came out fine. Except this one coz it had four wires (inductor & cap leads and 2 speaker) in a cluster. Tied a small flexible copper wire around the four to hold it in place before welding it. But didn't get it right.
THanks once again for that link.
Need to search for ways to de-solder that to rework on it. If you already have some link on how to de-solder please do post it.
Thanks

There is no special way to de-solder just heat and pull apart or best cut the soldered portion with a leg cutter. It's always a problem when soldering thick copper wires, the copper itself being a good conductor draws away heat from the Iron too fast resulting in dry joints. You need a 40W iron to do these joints properly. If you have a vari wattage soldering station try with a higher setting.
The solder joint picture that you have posted looks like a dry joint to me, dry joints are bad if your going to have a lot of current going through them.

1. Remove the enamel from the inductor wires using fine abrasive paper or a small triangular file.
2. Dip the enamel removed end of the wire in the flux paste.
3. take a drop of solder on the tip of your iron , move this flux coated end of the wire through this molten solder .
4. This is not required for the caps as their legs will already be tinned.
5. now braid together all the wires, dip in a bit of flux ( just enough to coat the braided portion lightly), flux is corrosive if you have too much it will eat into the joint in the long run.
6. melt a large blob of solder on the tip of the iron and and move the braided portion through this molten solder. Do no try to solder the joint by directly applying the iron and the solder to the joint as the Iron will not be able to heat all of them together very fast.

 

[grubyhalo]

Sorry for the OT, the N2X's are a very good choice! I see you have not opted for the Platinum by-pass caps for the tweeters...

 

[Gijo George]

There is no special way to de-solder just heat and pull apart or best cut the soldered portion with a leg cutter. It's always a problem when soldering thick copper wires, the copper itself being a good conductor draws away heat from the Iron too fast resulting in dry joints. You need a 40W iron to do these joints properly. If you have a vari wattage soldering station try with a higher setting.
The solder joint picture that you have posted looks like a dry joint to me, dry joints are bad if your going to have a lot of current going through them.

1. Remove the enamel from the inductor wires using fine abrasive paper or a small triangular file.
2. Dip the enamel removed end of the wire in the flux paste.
3. take a drop of solder on the tip of your iron , move this flux coated end of the wire through this molten solder .
4. This is not required for the caps as their legs will already be tinned.
5. now braid together all the wires, dip in a bit of flux ( just enough to coat the braided portion lightly), flux is corrosive if you have too much it will eat into the joint in the long run.
6. melt a large blob of solder on the tip of the iron and and move the braided portion through this molten solder. Do no try to solder the joint by directly applying the iron and the solder to the joint as the Iron will not be able to heat all of them together very fast.

Wow thanks mate. Thats a detailed explanation. Will definitely take it step by step tomorrow.

Sorry for the OT, the N2X's are a very good choice! I see you have not opted for the Platinum by-pass caps for the tweeters...

Yeah I'm hoping it is hyeah:
Didn't think too deep into the platinum bypass thingy. Or else would have opted for that. Anyways next time for the N3's maybe.

 

[baswamin]

A little OT, can you explain how you procured this kit in India and the cost / custom duty you paid?

Thanks

 

[Gijo George]

A little OT, can you explain how you procured this kit in India and the cost / custom duty you paid?

Thanks

Through Borderlinx

Cost of Kit: $505
Borderlinx: Rs.12000

 

[Gijo George]

A few pics of the cabinet. The driver holes have been cut out by the carpenter. Not bad for a hand job.

 

[sachu888]

Hi Gijo,
Looks very good.

Regards,
Sachin

 

[josedandrew]

A few pics of the cabinet. The driver holes have been cut out by the carpenter. Not bad for a hand job.

jijo,
the box looks really nice.
the tweeter hole is unsually big, which reduces the strength of the baffle.
would have been wiser to get the front baffle done from solid wood, than 3/4" MDF since you are spending on a good kit.
anyway give some additional bracing for the baffle.
my two cents..

 

[iaudio]

Jose andrew, the '75 inch mdf was as per Danny so instruction, so hopefully it should do the job.
Gijo, cabinets turned out pretty well for a "hand" job!

 

[borg]

very good Gijo. waiting to read about your impressions

 

[anm]

watching with interest, as I am going for N3s, the bigger bro.

 

[Gijo George]

Late realisation that a relative had a CNC wood working machine where I could have done the baffles instead of the hand work. Anyways if anyone needs a CNC cut baffle do let me know.

jijo,
the box looks really nice.
the tweeter hole is unsually big, which reduces the strength of the baffle.
would have been wiser to get the front baffle done from solid wood, than 3/4" MDF since you are spending on a good kit.
anyway give some additional bracing for the baffle.
my two cents..

Hi Jose
Thanks for the inputs mate. Being my first time I just followed the cab design by Danny and didn't bother with my own changes. I've flooded him with quiries as it is. Another one with a total change in material and thickness may just drive him over the edge.
But something I did have in mind was a 1" mdf front baffle. But I would have to buy a 8'x4' board just for two front baffles. Thought I'll take it up on my next build.

watching with interest, as I am going for N3s, the bigger bro.

Thanks for looking. You might want to check out this dude making a X-SLS.

X-SLS & X-CX Encore, AV-1RS Build

and this link for the N3's. Man those are some amazing looking speakers.

My N3 towers are complete.

Should hopefully get my speakers painted by 25th.:yahoo:

 

[quad]

Gijo, great work so far. Looking forward the finished product
and the listening impressions.

 

[hydra]

Things are looking great, Gijo! Can't wait to listen to them!

 

[Gijo George]

The bookshelves are up and singing.:yahoo:
I got them up last night and had a listen. With an hour's listening, biggest improvement I find are the vocals. Compared to the Mordaunt short 908i FS the imaging is slightly better and soundstage is much better. I haven't been able to listen further today. I've currently kept the speakers in the main hall in my apartment and there's too much of ambient noise. (Read my 3 year old son) So will get back to you on that with further impressions.


Few pics