Hi fellas.
Approaching the finishing of a year-long experimental project, a 100% sealed 2.2 speaker system.
Here is a snap showing the thing(s) along with my ever-so-naked-never-inside-a-cabinet amplifier channels (two V4s for the fullranges and two V4Hs for subwoofers) driven from my old and faithful diy 24dB/octave 2.1 active crossover (crossed at 150Hz). For the time being, both sub channels are fed the same 'point-one' mixed LF signal from the xover. A 2.2 crossover with linkwitz transform for LF is cooking so this handicap is not meant for long.
It consists of two 8" FR drivers bought from diyaudiocart in August last year (Boston Acoustics HiQ, 8ohm, 93dB) and two 10" LF drivers ordered and made locally about 7 years ago (no brand, 4ohm, sensitivity unknown). That's right the LF drivers were sleeping for almost a decade. FR power 25WRMS each and Subs 200WRMS each.
Cabinet material is 3/4" marine ply for all four boxes. All boxes braced internally and stuffed with polyfill (IME trickiest parts of the whole project). FR box walls internally lined with coir fiber on rubber base. Subwoofers have no internal wall lining. All walls are joined by 2" galvanized nails (3 per edge) with sawdust+fevicol paste as seal. After walls were fixed, all inside edges and corners were manually re-sealed with the aformentioned paste and left to dry for a couple days. Drivers are mounted using typical t-nuts and bolts. A week ago the FR cabinets received steel feet from diyaudiocart, subs will get the same in late June after they have been coated with black matte-finish sunmica as the FRs. The FR drivers are also scheduled to get a pair of phase plugs soon (probably wooden) as I realized they benefit greatly from it. The grill frames will be made in mid-June as I plan to get a router by then; a little more close to perfect circles cannot be achieved by a jigsaw.
All the drivers had those ugly looking rubber gaskets in front of them. I carefully cut and removed all of those abominations; now they all look "imported".
The FR boxes weigh ~24Kg each and the sub boxes ~28Kg each, with driver installed. The bracing inside the sub uses the same ply but the ones inside the FRs are teak beams with 2 square-inch cross section, making them almlost as heavy as the subwoofer cabinets. There are some excess length of front wall in the sub cabinets protruding in all four directions, guess the router will help trim those properly.
This is it so far... more will follow soon.
FAQ- (you can skip this section)
q. Does it sing already?
a. Yes, after some modification done in the low-pass section of the crossover to make it compensate for subwoofer frequency response. Sealed subs, you know, are weird despite their apparent simplicity.
q. How does it sound?
a. GRAND! 25Hz to 18KHz no problem. Has touch, has power.
q. Wow! What is your next project?
a. Reinforcing the doors and windows.
t.b.c.
cheers
shaan
Approaching the finishing of a year-long experimental project, a 100% sealed 2.2 speaker system.
Here is a snap showing the thing(s) along with my ever-so-naked-never-inside-a-cabinet amplifier channels (two V4s for the fullranges and two V4Hs for subwoofers) driven from my old and faithful diy 24dB/octave 2.1 active crossover (crossed at 150Hz). For the time being, both sub channels are fed the same 'point-one' mixed LF signal from the xover. A 2.2 crossover with linkwitz transform for LF is cooking so this handicap is not meant for long.
It consists of two 8" FR drivers bought from diyaudiocart in August last year (Boston Acoustics HiQ, 8ohm, 93dB) and two 10" LF drivers ordered and made locally about 7 years ago (no brand, 4ohm, sensitivity unknown). That's right the LF drivers were sleeping for almost a decade. FR power 25WRMS each and Subs 200WRMS each.
Cabinet material is 3/4" marine ply for all four boxes. All boxes braced internally and stuffed with polyfill (IME trickiest parts of the whole project). FR box walls internally lined with coir fiber on rubber base. Subwoofers have no internal wall lining. All walls are joined by 2" galvanized nails (3 per edge) with sawdust+fevicol paste as seal. After walls were fixed, all inside edges and corners were manually re-sealed with the aformentioned paste and left to dry for a couple days. Drivers are mounted using typical t-nuts and bolts. A week ago the FR cabinets received steel feet from diyaudiocart, subs will get the same in late June after they have been coated with black matte-finish sunmica as the FRs. The FR drivers are also scheduled to get a pair of phase plugs soon (probably wooden) as I realized they benefit greatly from it. The grill frames will be made in mid-June as I plan to get a router by then; a little more close to perfect circles cannot be achieved by a jigsaw.
All the drivers had those ugly looking rubber gaskets in front of them. I carefully cut and removed all of those abominations; now they all look "imported".
The FR boxes weigh ~24Kg each and the sub boxes ~28Kg each, with driver installed. The bracing inside the sub uses the same ply but the ones inside the FRs are teak beams with 2 square-inch cross section, making them almlost as heavy as the subwoofer cabinets. There are some excess length of front wall in the sub cabinets protruding in all four directions, guess the router will help trim those properly.
This is it so far... more will follow soon.
FAQ- (you can skip this section)
q. Does it sing already?
a. Yes, after some modification done in the low-pass section of the crossover to make it compensate for subwoofer frequency response. Sealed subs, you know, are weird despite their apparent simplicity.
q. How does it sound?
a. GRAND! 25Hz to 18KHz no problem. Has touch, has power.
q. Wow! What is your next project?
a. Reinforcing the doors and windows.
t.b.c.
cheers
shaan
