it is a voltage dependent resistor, (Metal Oxide Varistor)
Stabilizer & Transformer for Home Theater System
- Thread starter premchanth
- Start date
it is a voltage dependent resistor, (Metal Oxide Varistor)
I am looking for a step-down transformer for my Denon AVR791 that I have purchased from the US.
Can anyone suggest me what would be the rating required. Will a 1.5 Kva one be suitable. I will do a 5.1 starting with Wharfedale 9.2.
I am based out of Guagaon, any dealer from NCR region where I can get these.
Thanks
Vinoo
Can anyone suggest me what would be the rating required. Will a 1.5 Kva one be suitable. I will do a 5.1 starting with Wharfedale 9.2.
I am based out of Guagaon, any dealer from NCR region where I can get these.
Thanks
Vinoo
harisv339
New Member
Hi All,
I am yet another proud R2I, and am looking for a clean power protection solution for my A/V equipments brought from the US. Here is my rig -
* Samsung LN46C650 46" LCD TV -- 110/220V 50/60Hz
* Pioneer VSX-1020-K AVR 770W RMS -- 110V 60Hz
* Klipsch Energy Micro 5.1 100W HT speakers -- 110V 60Hz
* Samsung BDP1500 Blu-Ray Player -- 110V 60Hz
* Xbox 360 -- 110V 60Hz
* Nintendo Wii - 110V 60Hz
As I reckon, I may need at least a 2KVA stabilizer unit. I checked out the V-Guard Digi 200 but seems the power rating is 6A max current .. which is just about 1.3KVA (for 220V input). Also their personnel recommended to go for two, which doesnt sound like an elegant solution - especially considering the space and total price.
REQUIREMENTS -
----------------
* HQ Voltage stablizer with 2KVA rating at least.
* Must have EMI / RFI filters in-built to avoid Harmonic distortions in AVR (receiver / amplifier)
* A separate or combo step down transformer (if separate, brand?, model?, rating?, price?)
* Fast and seamless switching / voltage response for powering AV equipments (zero lag)
* Wide operating range and auto cut-off with delay function
* Must be locally available in Bangalore or Chennai.
What brand options or custom options do I have?
Your inputs are highly valuable! Thanks in advance !
I am yet another proud R2I, and am looking for a clean power protection solution for my A/V equipments brought from the US. Here is my rig -
* Samsung LN46C650 46" LCD TV -- 110/220V 50/60Hz
* Pioneer VSX-1020-K AVR 770W RMS -- 110V 60Hz
* Klipsch Energy Micro 5.1 100W HT speakers -- 110V 60Hz
* Samsung BDP1500 Blu-Ray Player -- 110V 60Hz
* Xbox 360 -- 110V 60Hz
* Nintendo Wii - 110V 60Hz
As I reckon, I may need at least a 2KVA stabilizer unit. I checked out the V-Guard Digi 200 but seems the power rating is 6A max current .. which is just about 1.3KVA (for 220V input). Also their personnel recommended to go for two, which doesnt sound like an elegant solution - especially considering the space and total price.
REQUIREMENTS -
----------------
* HQ Voltage stablizer with 2KVA rating at least.
* Must have EMI / RFI filters in-built to avoid Harmonic distortions in AVR (receiver / amplifier)
* A separate or combo step down transformer (if separate, brand?, model?, rating?, price?)
* Fast and seamless switching / voltage response for powering AV equipments (zero lag)
* Wide operating range and auto cut-off with delay function
* Must be locally available in Bangalore or Chennai.
What brand options or custom options do I have?
Your inputs are highly valuable! Thanks in advance !
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Check this thread..
http://www.hifivision.com/audio-vid...r-conditioner-halcyon-voltage-stabilizer.html
You can even go for Servo or Vertex branded ones..
http://www.hifivision.com/audio-vid...r-conditioner-halcyon-voltage-stabilizer.html
You can even go for Servo or Vertex branded ones..
I have a home theater system with a Epson 1080P projector, a AMD780G based system with built in amp driving a KEF 5.1 HT Sat/Sub system, a AMD780G based low power server, a daily use AMD690G based system with a 46" Samsung LED backlit monitor, as well as a wireless router and a bridge. The full power draw by the setup was about 400W (about 650VA or so) & I initially protected these with a home grade Su-Kam 800VA sine-wave inverter but the computers would randomly reboot whenever there was a switchover. I tried putting it behind a stabilizer and still no go. Finally I bought a APC Smart-UPS XL 1000VA with two 150AH tubular batteries to protect everything and I have zero problems now. In fact, the BESCOM transformer that supplies power to our street tends to have spectacular blow-ups due to branches falling on the power lines etc. but I just don't notice anything. Heartily recommended. They have a 2200VA external battery based system that should meet your needs.
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peterson35
New Member
Hi I have LG 42" LF20FR LCD which is running on Guardian electronic stabilizer (1250 mA). My WD TV Live is on UPS power. Now I am going to get Onkyo HT-S3300 tomorrow. What kind of stabilizer would be best suited for home theater like Ht-S3300. I need stabilizer for only the home theater. I don't think electronic stabilizers are out of question as current demand varies significantly. Please advise me the make or model and company. Thanks.
Peter
Peter
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Hey Hey Hey Hey
I have seen a lot of cross comments floating around on the topic of stabilizers.
Most of them are mainly comments akin to "shooting from the hip".
If you really want to protect your system, which you should, you should be connecting the entire house, except the kitchen equipment and the geysers on the Stabilizer. The stabilizer should be servo controlled stabilizer with a range from 150 to 300 volts. It should also be equipped with a high/low voltage circuit breaker trip. It is preferable to get one with an ammeter in addition. The stabilizer should be around 3kVA ( I have a 4.2kVA stabilizer) as the starting loads of most of the audio is about twice that of the normal running amperage.
Once you have this kind of "extra capacity" on the stabilizer, you could then choose which kind of equipment to selectively put on the UPS. A 1.5 kVA UPS is recommended. For a 1.5kVA UPS, you would be requiring two batteries in series delivering 24 volts to the UPS.
The size of the batteries, or the Battery rack, would determine the amount of time that the UPS would run without input power.
The above system is quite foolproof and would ensure years of service life. Cutting short any of these, or running any electrical equipment near its rated capacity is not recommended as there would be excessive wear and tear due to the heat generated. You should not run electrical gadgets above 60% of their rated capacity, in order to ensure a long and trouble-free service life.
In summation:
Raw power - geysers, fridges, micros etc
Stabilized power - entire house except the above
UPS Power - sensitive equipment - Audio/video equipment and the like
The rated capacity should be about twice the calculated capacity.
Never start all the equipment at once. Put them on one after another.
Thassit
I have seen a lot of cross comments floating around on the topic of stabilizers.
Most of them are mainly comments akin to "shooting from the hip".
If you really want to protect your system, which you should, you should be connecting the entire house, except the kitchen equipment and the geysers on the Stabilizer. The stabilizer should be servo controlled stabilizer with a range from 150 to 300 volts. It should also be equipped with a high/low voltage circuit breaker trip. It is preferable to get one with an ammeter in addition. The stabilizer should be around 3kVA ( I have a 4.2kVA stabilizer) as the starting loads of most of the audio is about twice that of the normal running amperage.
Once you have this kind of "extra capacity" on the stabilizer, you could then choose which kind of equipment to selectively put on the UPS. A 1.5 kVA UPS is recommended. For a 1.5kVA UPS, you would be requiring two batteries in series delivering 24 volts to the UPS.
The size of the batteries, or the Battery rack, would determine the amount of time that the UPS would run without input power.
The above system is quite foolproof and would ensure years of service life. Cutting short any of these, or running any electrical equipment near its rated capacity is not recommended as there would be excessive wear and tear due to the heat generated. You should not run electrical gadgets above 60% of their rated capacity, in order to ensure a long and trouble-free service life.
In summation:
Raw power - geysers, fridges, micros etc
Stabilized power - entire house except the above
UPS Power - sensitive equipment - Audio/video equipment and the like
The rated capacity should be about twice the calculated capacity.
Never start all the equipment at once. Put them on one after another.
Thassit
The Onkyo which, you bought in the USA runs on 110 V, I suppose.
The Yamaha I bought in the USA also runs only on 110 V.
First you need a 2:1 step-down transformer or converter to convert the standard 230 V supply to the required 110 V (115 V is also okay ). A 100 watt per channel set uses around 1 to 1.3 amps of current ( at peak load ), so a 500 VA transformer is ok. Please also remember that in most Indian houses one can never play the amplifier above 25% on its capacity. So, you could, actually do with a much smaller converter, none the less, I have a 500 VA transformer ( the cost is marginally higher ).
If your Onkyo has a switch-selectable input voltage arrangement, then you should set the input voltage to 230 Volts. and there is no need for an input transformer.
Then you go into the loop I have mentioned above.
Get the geysers and the kitchen equipment ( mixer etc, not the fridge ) and separate the power line for raw-power supply.
Calculate the load of the house and get a servo stabilizer.
Calculate the load of the sensitive equipment, and get a UPS.
Calculate the time of the power outages and get your battery pack.
you entire
computer system,
Hifi system, and television/projector should be on the UPS.
Calculate your house load ( and future load ), and
The Yamaha I bought in the USA also runs only on 110 V.
First you need a 2:1 step-down transformer or converter to convert the standard 230 V supply to the required 110 V (115 V is also okay ). A 100 watt per channel set uses around 1 to 1.3 amps of current ( at peak load ), so a 500 VA transformer is ok. Please also remember that in most Indian houses one can never play the amplifier above 25% on its capacity. So, you could, actually do with a much smaller converter, none the less, I have a 500 VA transformer ( the cost is marginally higher ).
If your Onkyo has a switch-selectable input voltage arrangement, then you should set the input voltage to 230 Volts. and there is no need for an input transformer.
Then you go into the loop I have mentioned above.
Get the geysers and the kitchen equipment ( mixer etc, not the fridge ) and separate the power line for raw-power supply.
Calculate the load of the house and get a servo stabilizer.
Calculate the load of the sensitive equipment, and get a UPS.
Calculate the time of the power outages and get your battery pack.
you entire
computer system,
Hifi system, and television/projector should be on the UPS.
Calculate your house load ( and future load ), and
How do inverters fit in these discussions? I have a large capacity sinewave inverter for home and entire house is connected to it except for geysers, fridge and like. For computer I additionally have a UPS to prevent reboots. Whenever power goes, my AV equipment continue functioning without glitch, sometimes I don't even realize that power is gone. On very few occasions AV receiver turns off and then on. I have had this setup for almost 3-4 years now. I don't think there has been any damage to my equipment and hence don't understand the need for servo stabilizers and UPS for AV.
Sorry for pointing this, but adjectives have no place in calculations.
either the capacity of the inverter is not "large" enough, or the response time ( to switch to the inverter ) is slower than required.
If the inverter is okay, then, the AV equipment should never switch on an off.
BTW, what is the capacity of the inverter, and, what is the input voltage ( one battery, or two batteries).
Inverter is 1400VA Sinewave with two 150AH tubular batteries. My point is that even if your AV equipment turns on & off on rare occasions its nothing to worry about. My setup is still going strong after 4 years. For projectors, turning on and off shortens bulb life, therefore IF inverter is unable to prevent on and off then all you need is a small UPS directly connected to it to keep it up for 1-2 seconds till inverter takes over (as is presently setup for my computer).
BTW, there is a "UPS setting" in my inverter that I have never tried to let my inverter remain power-efficient. Turning on that may even stop the rare flip on AV receiver. But I don't think I need to since I don't think my AV receiver is getting "damaged" because of the flip.
You would have to look into the response time of the UPS. There are UPSs available, about nearly the same cost, with a much faster response time, specifically meant for electronic equipment. Then, you could dispense with the computer specific UPS.
The response time is specified in milliseconds, and there are two specific categories of inverters in the market.
the 1400 kVA inverter that you have appears to be sufficient for all the load that you have.
A 1400 kVA inverter can take about 6 amps of current load, and no house would have that kind of a load for home equipment. You seem to be pretty safe on that count. There is a simple PCB in the inverter that has to be changed ( by any inverter wallah ) to give you the required response time.
The response time is specified in milliseconds, and there are two specific categories of inverters in the market.
the 1400 kVA inverter that you have appears to be sufficient for all the load that you have.
A 1400 kVA inverter can take about 6 amps of current load, and no house would have that kind of a load for home equipment. You seem to be pretty safe on that count. There is a simple PCB in the inverter that has to be changed ( by any inverter wallah ) to give you the required response time.
Sridhar, Thats what I am telling you - Inverter already has a UPS "switch" which can be turned on/off to decreases response time. Instructions are to turn it on, if a computer is connected, otherwise leave it off.. Its currently 'Off' because I use a separate small UPS for PC. I gather from your response that I should turn it 'On' to prevent the occasional flip in AV receiver (or to protect projector, if connected).
Apart from this, do I need to get a stabilizer? Or does inverter will do the required voltage regulation? Is a new Videocon model.
peterson35
New Member
Inverters supply the input voltage as such as output and doesn't regulate or suppress surges. It's main purpose is to takeover when the power fails. On battery it may give constant voltage, but ob mains it will not provide constant voltage, the input voltage fluctuations will be ther in the output also. So Your costly AV equipments are not protected by using inverter. Using Stabiliser for Audio Video gear and 500VA UPS for projector with builtin battery of 7AH will be sufficient for your projector to cool down in case of power failure.
I think I'm right.
I think I'm right.
I do use powerstrips with surge protection for my AV gear. Do I still need stabilizer along with inverter?
peterson35
New Member
Some high end enverters have builtin stabilizer functionality. If yours have one such then it is ok. Else you need good stabilizer. Consult your inverter manual or spec sheet.
abhifusion
New Member
I have recently installed Luminous Sine Wave Home UPS (1400VA , 24V) to take care of my LCD , Comp n Onkyo 3300 ... But is it recommended to run HT on UPS ?? Or should I connect it to 16A High Power plug (Only light load plugs are backed up by UPS)
Also I have 2KVA Servo Stabilizer , I'm confused about its usability . If I connect it before Home UPS then HT system wont be secured from power fluctuations ... Can I use it just for the Onkyo 3300 on high load line ?? It wont be backup up by UPS ...
Also I have 2KVA Servo Stabilizer , I'm confused about its usability . If I connect it before Home UPS then HT system wont be secured from power fluctuations ... Can I use it just for the Onkyo 3300 on high load line ?? It wont be backup up by UPS ...
Leave the TV and cable to the UPS and let the system run only by Raw power. If possible have 2 plugs 15a/5a ..... That way you can run HT setup on power and watch TV alone during power cuts...You can buy a good powerstrip or a small sep stabilizer for LCD... And connect your 2kva one to 15a or 16a high power plug and connect HT/Computer etc.,
Experts please add more points here..
MOM Please !!!!
The Inverter already has an-built stabilizer in it.
When there is an availability of input power, stabilized voltage is supplied to the equipment connected to the UPS circuit.
A surge/spike supressor is a relatively small piece of equipment compared to an inverter. The surge supressor, in the form of a power-strip, is the best option.
That is really no big deal.
What you should be doing is to set the response time of the inverter to, I think, 50 milliseconds, and the problems would have gone.
I cannot think of any harm being done to any part of the inverter system, because of a
smaller response time setting.
My inverter has a very small response time, and it has been operating okay for many years.
Don't bother, just set the inverter to an as small response time as the circuitry will accept, and get rid of your problems.
The Inverter already has an-built stabilizer in it.
When there is an availability of input power, stabilized voltage is supplied to the equipment connected to the UPS circuit.
A surge/spike supressor is a relatively small piece of equipment compared to an inverter. The surge supressor, in the form of a power-strip, is the best option.
That is really no big deal.
What you should be doing is to set the response time of the inverter to, I think, 50 milliseconds, and the problems would have gone.
I cannot think of any harm being done to any part of the inverter system, because of a
smaller response time setting.
My inverter has a very small response time, and it has been operating okay for many years.
Don't bother, just set the inverter to an as small response time as the circuitry will accept, and get rid of your problems.
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