The 'Dark' Art Of Room Acoustics!

speaking of books..you may perhaps want to read Master Handbook of Acoustics by F Alton Everest especially chapter 18 (pages 329 to 342 in the fifth edition)...some topics covered in this chapter are:
peculiarities of small room acoustics
room size and proportion
reverberation time
modal anomalies
control of modal resonance
bass traps for listening rooms
identification and treatment of reflection points
lateral reflection and control of spaciousness
loudspeaker placement.......

many of the suggestions may not be practicable but it is definitely good to have some idea about the issues involved and make an approximate attempt at rectifying things...
 
Until the 90's my books/tapes/cds were residing in open shelves.They gradually acquired a dull and dusty appearance.Now my books/cds are in glass fronted cupboards in the living room.These cupboards are part of the wall which faces the speakers.The wall behind the speakers,covered with moderately thick curtains,is almost entirely made of glass and wood.Speakers are at a distance of 5 feet from the back wall and 20 feet from the facing wall.I will post pictures after the flooring work has been completed and the system is back in it's place.

The glass is essential for aesthetic reasons and for preserving the books/cds in pristine condition.I have just finished an extended discussion with my wife and architect cousin,during which removing even an inch of all that glass was ruled out:sad:
 
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hi Captrajesh. the job of furniture is primarily as an absorber. it will not really "break propogation" effectively as that needs a lot more high furniture and is better done by On the wall hangings. apparently Coir+Cardboard in a wooden frame does that well..egg cartons do a better job but look very ungainly.

Arjun, with due regards to your post, I have to counter it I guess. In My Humble Opinion, when you "absorb" sound, you are definitely "breaking propagation" How it is done is pure science; comes not just with theoretical knowledge but with a lot of experience.
 
Arjun, with due regards to your post, I have to counter it I guess. In My Humble Opinion, when you "absorb" sound, you are definitely "breaking propagation" How it is done is pure science; comes not just with theoretical knowledge but with a lot of experience.

:)
to some extent yes and will not dispute that...but since the height of the furniture is limited, the direct and first reflection points from the side walls and ceiling for directional frequencies are not impacted. Non directional.. yes those are the lower frequencies which are "Absorbed" which reduce SPL
 
since the height of the furniture is limited, the direct and first reflection points from the side walls and ceiling for directional frequencies are not impacted. Non directional.. yes those are the lower frequencies which are "Absorbed" which reduce SPL

Yes, I'm getting what you are saying. Sounds very convincing, theoretically speaking.

What I'm saying was out of pure experience of listening to normal conversations, which may not have any low frequencies, (I don't know for sure) in both the living rooms; The echo is so obvious that even a half deaf person would clearly perceive. What is your take on this?
 
identification and treatment of reflection points
Easiest and rough way to identify reflection points is while sitting in listening position ask someone to hold a mirror along side the walls at different points and see if speakers are visible.
 
Hi Ajay,

I came across this interesting software called REW which does an acoustic mapping of your room. I was planning to do the same for my room too.

Its a free software however, it requires registration into the hometheathershack forum.

REW - Room EQ Wizard Home Page

Let me know your views on this.

I think it should be a good first step for anyone. It requires a SPL meter with a line out but I guess even a iphone should do. It also does the callibration of the SPL meter and has sound tones to do a sweep of your room.

If this works it will be a good and unbiased starting point for room acoustics.
 
You may want to check this as well

Home

We hope to have it in the next 2 weeks. I believe for higher end systems, this approach (or similar) will end up being a necessity rather than a nice to have. The improvement for the money should exceed any improvement that can be had by spending the same on any component or speaker.

cheers
Sridhar
 
CARA is also a very good package..it can interface to a computer as well.

if you model your room, it can optimise speakers/listener placement as well...well worth it for the price
 
Thanks! sud98, sridhar, arj

I will check out your recommendations. For the moment I am tied up with the renovation work. Hopefully,in a few days I can get down to 'rediscovering' my system in the 'new' room.

For a long time I had been itching to move the dining table and seal the side wall exit. Now that it's been achieved,I feel the former may have been a good absorber and the latter a good diffuser of indirect sound :sad:

My new 'reflective chamber' with a solitary exit,semi glossy vitrified tiles,less furniture and glass panes on the book/cd shelves will be a 'mystery' I am looking forward to solving :)
 
After four days of forced abstinence,because the flooring of my music/living room was undergoing a change,there is once again music in the air.What bliss!I have become absolutely addicted to late nineteenth and early twentieth century classical music.I can't get through the day without a daily dose of,several hours of my newly acquired music from Amazon.

Right now the music room is bare,except for gleaming tiles with a cool Italian marble feel,my five year old daughter lying asleep on the floor,and the music system playing the wonderful music of Alexander Borodin.

The 'dark god' of room acoustics has chosen to shed some 'light'.I am pleased to report that even in an empty room,sans rugs and furniture,the sound is very pleasing to the ear.The reason for this may be,that the floor is now 'dead level'.The earlier marble floor used to slope towards the corners.Even the individual marble tiles were not at one level.Every time I changed the placement of the speakers,I had to wrestle with the spikes,loosening some,tightening others,to make the speakers stable and secure.But now the speakers are rock steady on the floor and all the spikes are screwed tight.
I believe the flat and stable floor has vastly improved the performance of the speakers.In the coming days,as I furnish the room and attempt a few speaker placements and other tweaks,I expect the SQ to regain,and hopefully surpass it's former glory :)
 
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I have been reading a fairly comprehensive and sensible article on room acoustics.This article from Linkwitz Lab is divided into several sections.Rather than trying to digest all the information at one go,can we take it up one section at a time,and discuss the views expressed by the author?

Room Acoustics

INTRODUCTION

The best rooms ...

The best rooms are at least 15 feet wide, 20 feet long and have a ceiling height of 8 feet or more. This allows the two loudspeakers of a stereo system to be placed symmetrically and with their tweeters at least 3 feet from side and rear walls. With the loudspeaker tweeters 8 feet apart the sweet spot is located on the room symmetry line and at 8 feet from left and right loudspeakers. This leaves more than 9 feet behind the listeners for the sound to travel before it is reflected back. It is very important for balanced phantom image creation that the immediate vicinity around the two loudspeakers is symmetrical.

Rooms can, of course, be much larger than 15 x 20 x 8 feet and with the loudspeakers much further than 3 feet from the walls, but the optimum listening distance for phantom imaging remains equal to the loudspeaker left-right separation or up to 1.5 times that value.

Room construction can vary widely, which tends to affect low frequency reproduction and sound transmission to and from the neighbors. You take what you get and try to correct one or two frequencies if necessary. But, if the room is pleasing to live in, to have a conversation or to relax, is neither a dungeon nor a stuffed pillow, then it is also suited for accurate sound playback. The room should be furnished, have irregular hard surfaces, books and shelves for sound diffusion, rugs, pillows and soft surfaces for sound absorption at higher frequencies. Just keep it lively. The best loudspeakers will make you forget the room, if the room talks back from all directions in the same familiar voice.

Actually, the loudspeaker is the problem

The room is usually considered to be the problem when a loudspeaker does not sound right. Actually, the loudspeaker is the problem, because it illuminates the room unevenly with sound at different frequencies. The room merely talks back and the listener's brain cannot withdraw attention from it. Room correction will make the loudspeaker sound different but it cannot fix its off-axis frequency response, which is heard via the room.

Below you will find a lot of theory that you can safely ignore, because your room is most likely not one of those ideal cases that can be described mathematically. No one can tell you the right room proportions, though many have and are trying. Listening rooms in the home are much more difficult to understand and describe than concert halls, because their acoustic size varies from being small compared to a 56 foot wavelength at 20 Hz, to being very large at 10 kHz with 1.3 inch wavelength. Concert halls are acoustically large even at the lowest frequencies and thus easier to analyze and they have been studied extensively. Even so, concert hall design is still a blend of art and science. For your listening/living room design and layout follow the simple guidelines above and forget what you read about 1/3rd rules, costly room treatment products, magic wood blocks, etc. and use appropriate loudspeakers.

Much has been written in the popular and professional audio press about the acoustic treatment of rooms. The purpose of such treatment is to allow us to hear more of the loudspeaker and less of the room. I am convinced that a properly designed sound system can perform well in a great variety of rooms and requires only a minimum of room treatment if any at all.

To understand this claim let's look at the typical acoustic behavior of domestic size listening rooms, which have linear dimensions that are small compared to the 17 m wavelength of a 20 Hz bass tone, but are acoustically large when compared to a 200 Hz or 1.7 m wavelength midrange tone (G1 on the piano keyboard).

Below 200 Hz the acoustics of different locations in the room are dominated by discrete resonances. Above 200 Hz these resonances become so tightly packed in frequency and space that the room behaves quite uniformly and is best described by its reverberation time RT60 (Ref. 1).

Room treatment can be very effective above 200 Hz, but the same result may be obtained more aesthetically with ordinary furnishings, wall decoration, rugs on the floor and the variety of stuff we like to surround ourselves with. How much treatment is needed, or how short the reverberation time should be, depends on the polar radiation characteristics of the loudspeaker. For my open baffle speaker designs a room becomes too dead when its RT60 falls below 500 ms.

We can think of sound as propagating like a light ray. Thus, we can use a mirror to find the region on the side wall or ceiling where sound from the speaker might be reflected towards the preferred listening location. It depends on driver, crossover and baffle design, i.e. the polar radiation pattern, whether the region so found is illuminated by sound to any significant degree. If so, then a variety of commercial surface coverings are available to scatter and/or absorb the offending reflection.

The acoustically most problematic frequency range is below 200 Hz, because of the spatially and frequency wise irregular distribution of room resonances. Many computer programs have been written that calculate the resonant modes of a given room and recommend optimum loudspeaker and listener placements. Usually, real rooms are much more complex than the calculated models. Walls are not infinitely stiff, rooms have windows, doors, openings, suspended floors or ceilings, etc. In addition, it is the polar pattern and the acoustic source impedance of the given loudspeaker that determines which of the potential room modes are actually excited and to which degree. The usefulness of such programs is marginal at best. Likewise, recommended proportions for room length, width and height should not be taken more seriously than other proportions that may be based on visual aesthetics.

The conventional closed or vented box design, that is used for the majority of loudspeakers on the market, contributes significantly to the room problems below 200 Hz. These designs are omni-directional radiators and they tend to excite a maximum number of room resonances, particularly when located in room corners. While this adds to the perceived bass output at certain frequencies, it can lead to a falsification of the recorded material, namely when the room resonance decays more slowly than the original sound. In general, the low frequency response of omni-directional speakers in small rooms is quite non-uniform. Attempts to treat the room with absorbers will make only marginal differences unless very many absorbers or large absorbing surfaces are used. It is best to attenuate peaks in the bass response with parametric equalization. Holes in the response cannot be filled in (Ref. 1).

By far the perceptually most uniform response in the range below 200 Hz is obtained with an open-baffle, dipole or figure-of-eight radiating source. Because of its directionality, the dipole excites far fewer room resonances than an omni-directional source. The measured room response is not necessarily any smoother than that for an omni-directional source. But the perceived difference in bass reproduction is startling at first, because we are so used to hearing the irregular and booming bass of the typical box speaker in acoustically small rooms. Quickly one learns to recognize the distortion of this combination and it becomes intolerable.

For evaluating a given room and loudspeaker combination a CD is available. It contains unique sound tracks to identify room resonances and their effect upon the clarity of sound reproduction. Many of the tests require no instrumentation other than your ears.
 
Thanks for that ajay, i was wondering where i had read about the ideal room size (non golden ratio) before.
the decware site also has some good reads although more on treatments.

A nice primer here


while i am still rediscovering power..have discovered another significant variable ie the material the equipment sits on :sad:. while the cdp was sounding a bit listless only in MDF..experimented with a vitrified tile between two MDF boards and the sound signature changed to slightly more lively. only 1 MDF or only 1 tile makes the sound very different.

So when is your Esoteric landing ?
 
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arj

The arrival of the Esoteric is completely dependent on a relative bringing it to India.I am going to wait until mid June before exploring the Fed-Ex option.

The construction and material of the audio rack seems to be another 'dark art' :) I intend to take Magma's help/advise for that.My present rack is fashioned from thin planks of light weight wood with 8 mm glass 'floors' for resting the equipment.

Currently the flooring of our house is being redone with 8mm vitrified tiles from RAK (after several days of 'research' I came to the conclusion,that RAK's vitrified tiles are superior to those of rival brands like Kajaria and Nitco).I have asked the mason to cut to size three vitrified tiles,for placing under the cdp,pre and power amp.The vitrified tiles may give you better results than the ceramic ones.'Fully' Vitrified tiles are non porous and undergo a more refined manufacturing process than ceramic tiles.Raw material used is Silica and Clay.Ceramic tiles are made from natural biodegradable and recyclable material.They are porous and hollow sounding.
 
You are right about vitrified..thats what i have used (corrected my post) had redone my apartment a few years back and had a 2x2 left.

I read up on the concept of CLD ie constrained layer damping which in a watered down way means using combination of materials to achieve wider resonance control. hence a combination of Steel/wood etc etc will be better than 1 material. you should be able to work out a good combination with magma. My current setup is 1"MDF+Vitrified+MDF with thin cork footers.

as an OT try going thru this... although it is about turntable plinths, am sure it can be used for equipment shelves as well.
 
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You are right about vitrified..thats what i have used (corrected my post) had redone my apartment a few years back and had a 2x2 left.

I read up on the concept of CLD ie constrained layer damping which in a watered down way means using combination of materials to achieve wider resonance control. hence a combination of Steel/wood etc etc will be better than 1 material. you should be able to work out a good combination with magma. My current setup is 1"MDF+Vitrified+MDF with thin cork footers.

as an OT try going thru this... although it is about turntable plinths, am sure it can be used for equipment shelves as well.
arj
I ventured into Audioqualia's plinthbuilding terrain but got 'lost' on the way. :sad: Much too high tech for my non techie brain.
 
arj
I ventured into Audioqualia's plinthbuilding terrain but got 'lost' on the way. :sad: Much too high tech for my non techie brain.

:lol: I was hoping you would do all the hard work of understanding it and then explain it to me !
 
Paintings on the walls, cloth wall hangings, curtains and plants are good cheap ways of achieving diffusion & absorbtion in a listening room. Carpets and rugs help with the floor. For ceiling, getting a false ceiling is a good thing. Open bookshelves are also great as sound diffusers and absorbers, especially if you ensure that books of different sizes are placed together, but dust in most north indian cities makes this a very high maintainence option :(

But whatever method you use, be aware of fire safety. A lot of good sounding and cheap solutions like thermocol, foam, cardboard & egg cartons are very cheap and also highly flamable. Fire is a real hazard and be very careful with fire safety. Avoid use of synthetic materials in any fabric/carpet.

I would also suggest looking at getting custom diffuser panels made and then position them along various wall sections of the room to see which places help. You can make one by using a wodden frame filled with glass wool and covered with a decorative cloth. These are relatively cheap to make and they give you a good level of flexiblity with mounting position.

-- no1lives4ever
 
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