Amp enclosures/chasis cabinets

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Also FYI the PCBs are mounted EXACTLY like your computer motherboard. All you need is 3mm threaded holes at the precise locations. The mounting legs are available everywhere.

Magma's point, in the context of the F5 cabinet with the large side-mounted heatsinks, is that there has to be some way of adjusting the position of the PCB on the baseplate, such that the LM3886 can be made to sit flush against heatsink (there are bound to be small variations in the position of the LM3886 on the PCB due to assembly tolerances, etc.)

The only way I can think off to allow adjusting the position of the PCB is to use elongated cutouts (not round drill holes) for the standoffs on the base-plate. This probably needlessly complicates the base-plate manufacturing.

Related query: Do we have a consensus on the kind of cabinet? The F5-type cabinet with side-mounted heatsinks looks nice, but is likely to be expensive.

I would still suggest looking at the Dexa cabinet (or similar) and making just a 10mm-thick laser-cut aluminium faceplate for it, like the Modu cabinet for the T-amp shown in the link posted by Magma. The Dexa cabinet includes a black powder-coated top cover. Cutouts are already there in the chassis for standard connectors. The only operations required are drilling round holes in the base of the chassis for the trafo, PCB standoffs and maybe to fasten the (small) heatsink. Most of those drilling locations can be standardized if the trafo and heat-sink choices are limited to a small set.
 
Magma's point, in the context of the F5 cabinet with the large side-mounted heatsinks, is that there has to be some way of adjusting the position of the PCB on the baseplate, such that the LM3886 can be made to sit flush against heatsink (there are bound to be small variations in the position of the LM3886 on the PCB due to assembly tolerances, etc.)

The only way I can think off to allow adjusting the position of the PCB is to use elongated cutouts (not round drill holes) for the standoffs on the base-plate. This probably needlessly complicates the base-plate manufacturing.

Related query: Do we have a consensus on the kind of cabinet? The F5-type cabinet with side-mounted heatsinks looks nice, but is likely to be expensive.

I would still suggest looking at the Dexa cabinet (or similar) and making just a 10mm-thick laser-cut aluminium faceplate for it, like the Modu cabinet for the T-amp shown in the link posted by Magma. The Dexa cabinet includes a black powder-coated top cover. Cutouts are already there in the chassis for standard connectors. The only operations required are drilling round holes in the base of the chassis for the trafo, PCB standoffs and maybe to fasten the (small) heatsink. Most of those drilling locations can be standardized if the trafo and heat-sink choices are limited to a small set.

Does the Dexa have detachable side and rear plates? Needed for tinkering and fixing when things go wrong ... etc

The prefab rails used in 19" I.T racks can be used in place of cutouts perhaps? They come in 2U and 3U height/length if used horizontally.

-G
 
Dear all

i have dont belive in estimates and i love building stuff
so as i said earlier i am going to build 2 cabinets

One will be the Modu cabinet (pesante model)-Outer size 16inch (width) *13inch (depth) *4inch (height)
All sides 14-16gauge steel Plus a 6mm Aluminium front faceplate
This will probably be a budget cabinet
I will probably RIVET the sides and bottom-only the top will be removable
This greatly reduces labor costs of tapping.-
i have thought of rivetting since i dont like the screw nut look

For this cabinet i have procured small heatsinks that will be housed inside the cabinet and screwed onto the base
Size of sink is 98mm(along the lenght of PCB) by 75mm(height of sink)
The fins are 32mm long


The other cabinet will be very similar to the PASS LABS FIRST watt cabinet or similar to the F5 cabinet/cabinet that quad posted
Outer dimesnsions - you guys can advice ( but i was thinking the same as above)
Aluminium front and back faceplate
two lateral sides will offcourse be the large heatsinks

only after i actually make these cabinets can i put a price to them ( since as i said earlier i dont belive in estimates)

i just hope someone buys them (however cheap or expensive they turn out and however good or shabby they look) so i can cover by costs

To All : please confirm if the internal ht approx 3.75 -3.8 inch is fine - im guessing it should suffice
 
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Magma

Looks aside, if you make all sides removable with screw, it will be more convenient. Many a times we need to reach inside with soldering iron, with unit assembled and a rivet box will impede the DIYer.

Thanks
 
hmmm
i thought of that - but on just a 4 inch depth would you find it difficult to do your tweaking and soldering?

if yes then i will consider the screw nut option ( hmmrrff ! )
i may have to use aluminium L angles for extra rigidity and to ensure proper tightening (hmmrff hmmrfff!)
 
One will be the Modu cabinet (pesante model)-Outer size 16inch (width) *13inch (depth) *4inch (height)

Perfect - exactly what I'm looking for. Actually, bigger than needed, but will do fine for fitting additional stuff like a preamp or attenuator.

To All : please confirm if the internal ht approx 3.75 -3.8 inch is fine - im guessing it should suffice

Perhaps making it 4" will allow for greater flexibility, including the possibility of mounting the PCBs vertically on their edge - which may allow cramming a 6 or 8-channel HT amp within the same cabinet.
 
hmmm
i thought of that - but on just a 4 inch depth would you find it difficult to do your tweaking and soldering?

if yes then i will consider the screw nut option ( hmmrrff ! )
i may have to use aluminium L angles for extra rigidity and to ensure proper tightening (hmmrff hmmrfff!)

IMO - riveted sides is fine.
 
I would still suggest looking at the Dexa cabinet (or similar) and making just a 10mm-thick laser-cut aluminium faceplate for it, like the Modu cabinet for the T-amp shown in the link posted by Magma. The Dexa cabinet includes a black powder-coated top cover. Cutouts are already there in the chassis for standard connectors. The only operations required are drilling round holes in the base of the chassis for the trafo, PCB standoffs and maybe to fasten the (small) heatsink. Most of those drilling locations can be standardized if the trafo and heat-sink choices are limited to a small set.

I am visitng SP road tomorrow to pick some arctic silver heatsink paste. will take a look at the Dexa. Do they also have 2" height chassis?

OT but do you know the price of Arctic Silver or another good paste?

Cheers
 
hi everybody

i would like to let you know that i can help you to built your very own professional looking av cabinets which are designed using CAD and the cabinets can be made to your specifications here in delhi but as everybody knows customization requires money because it involves making just one distinguished looking product
so anyone who is interested can let me know ;)
 
process of cabinet design which i use

CAD desinging of the back panel which has all the necessary holes and cutouts for av connections
designing the look of the front panel
converting the the 3D model into drawings
the drawings are then used to fabricate the cabinet on a CNC machine
the raw cabinet is then powder coated or painted
the front panel is brush finished or colour anodized
the layout of text and logos is designed and then printed on the front panel
i can also do laser cutted precise logos for you
also laser cutted customized plastic parts like see through windows for lcd displays

so anyone interested can contact me

and yes the quality is as good or may be better than done by modu itlay
 
To All : please confirm if the internal ht approx 3.75 -3.8 inch is fine - im guessing it should suffice

I dont think this height will cut it. I have read & seen pics of a build of the F5 where the guy used a 2U rack. Its a tight fit. He mentioned that a 3U rack would have been better.

3U would mean 5.25''. It might be more than required for some other projects, but i would be safe than sorry later (specially given the temperatures).
 
hi saikat

yeh for the F5 it may probably a tight fit

but i think PASS LABS themself use a 2.5U rack ( at least thats what it looks like)

i'll make one 2U rack , linux can assemble and feedback
i just thought since most integrateds like the NAD marantz are 2U it would suit us too

ALso do understand that F5 type enclosure with the huge heatsinks costs considerably more when you go from 2u to 3u
the bloody huge AL heatsink gets expensive once you go above 4 inch
 
I am visitng SP road tomorrow to pick some arctic silver heatsink paste. will take a look at the Dexa. Do they also have 2" height chassis?

OT but do you know the price of Arctic Silver or another good paste?

There was a 6-channel HT-type amp, local-manufacture, which had a low-profile case - maybe around 2.5' to 3" tall. You can ask Pooja if that cabinet is available separately.

My trusty tube of Arctic Silver dates back to 2000, with sparing usage since then. It was about $15 then, so I guess it must be in the ballpark of Rs.400 or less locally.
 
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i'll make one 2U rack , linux can assemble and feedback

ok, 2U should be fine - I'll check if the Yamaha 12,000/71V capacitors fit, those are potentially the tallest components that will go on the PCB.

Note to self: Need to check the height of the SHAM-brand EI-core transformer to see if that fits in a 2U cabinet.

I have two fully-assembled Twisted Pear Version 1.2 PCBs ready to go. These are slightly smaller than the Version 1.3 PCBs I've designed, but should be fine for checking out cabinet clearances, cabling, etc.
 
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I saw the 5.1 chassis today at poojas on SP road. Absolutely horribble! It belongs to the scrap yard not your next HiFi system. He did not show me any Dexa cabinets when I asked him, maybe he does not have any or he was trying to get rid of his scrap. I did see a small enclosure, but it was too small to fit anything and almost equally lousy.


Cheers
 
. I did see a small enclosure, but it was too small to fit anything and almost equally lousy.

That was probably the Dexa or its close cousin. BTW, it's only the front plate which is lousy on these cabinets - the chassis and top-cover are adequate. If you put a brushed-aluminium face-plate on the Dexa or even that lousy 5.1 cabinet, it will be acceptable for the price.
 
That was probably the Dexa or its close cousin. BTW, it's only the front plate which is lousy on these cabinets - the chassis and top-cover are adequate. If you put a brushed-aluminium face-plate on the Dexa or even that lousy 5.1 cabinet, it will be acceptable for the price.

Oh no that 5.1 was a real horror story with all kinds of holes for parallel ports and 5.1 speaker terminal and a 4" fan etc :lol:

Imagine inviting a fellow audiophile to show off your gear and hanging your head in shame staring at the floor while he inspects your amp enclosure ... :eek:hyeah:

:)
Cheers
 

hi rahul
i can probably replicate this exactly.Maybe even have the screws flushed
DIY Aluminium chassis made for each stereo gainclone kit.
can even top the finish!

lazer cut slots
milled AL sheets 8mm

Are you willing to pay what it costs?
Lazer cut and Milling two of the most expensive processes that dont exist in the sheet metal MODU cabinets
 
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