Amp enclosures/chasis cabinets

[Audiodoc]

The three legged cabinet will be stable as long as the toroid is mounted in the centre. This limits the various configurations that mishraji may have planned of isolating the power supply to a corner.

 

[omishra]

The three legged cabinet will be stable as long as the toroid is mounted in the centre. This limits the various configurations that mishraji may have planned of isolating the power supply to a corner.

hyeah: I am planning MyRef from LinuxGuru. The kit and toroid is waiting here since a year now. All part are on the table. Now thinking different strategies.

 

[doors666]

hyeah: I am planning MyRef from LinuxGuru. The kit and toroid is waiting here since a year now. All part are on the table. Now thinking different strategies.

While thinking, could you please take a pic of that table and post here

 

[magma]

4 legs will HAVE to be levelled

when you deal with spikes ( point contact) you always notice and experince the level difference that is bound to exist as no table will be flat - unless its a high end audiophile platform - or its glass - that too you will have to check that is the glass level or not (as in , the points where the glass is supported are level or not)

when you use flat feet as all budget amp makers use
this level differnce gets hidden because of the large flat diameter of the feet
the mostly neoprene feet self adjust

Hence though 4 spikes can be given i will have to make the extra effort of ensuring they are level adjustable

the PASS group buy was too much on a tight budget for me to put the extra effort

p.S amp will also be stable if toroid is loaded on front corners ( doesnt have to be in the centre ) - just not in the rear corners

OM : your volume knob is still with me

 

[omishra]

4 legs will HAVE to be levelled

.....
p.S amp will also be stable if toroid is loaded on front corners ( doesnt have to be in the centre ) - just not in the rear corners

OM : your volume knob is still with me

magma, Thanks for the clarification. I will think my plan over this suggestion. Also wait for the volume knob. That means I have to wait till that arrives. No drilling to the cab till then.

 

[captrajesh]

about the extra long scews
im pretty sure that 4 nos were included inside the pass labs cab
were they not there? - the allen key type ones ?
you can use them on the front plate at least

Yeah there are 4 longer screws available bit I thought they are given for fixing the volume and selector knobs aren't they. If not, how do we fix the volume knobs?

BTW, what about the exchange of knobs?

I got 2 knobs, one beveled and one plain. Prefer both plain.

@Magma, I tried to fix the longer screws which require the Allen key to tighten. Since the threading in the side panels were apparently made only for the short screws, the longer ones were not turning at safe torque levels which I didn't want to exceed fearing that I may break the one (the Allen key) that is supplied.

I may have to go to the market and source a screw of similar diameter which can be turned with a screwdriver or still better, one with a hexagonal head.

The easier way out would be to use the wooden side panels that you made for the power amp cabinet. Buddy could you please make one pair for the B1 box too? I'd be much obliged.

I'm also sending you a mail listing out the requirements for holes and partition in the power amp cabinet. Kindly oblige

Another thing, what about the knob

 

[magma]

threading was NEVER done on the side panel
the screws made their own threads as i screwed them in
the side panel is meant for self tapping screws
and this was the reason i kept saying in my mails and posts- DONT detatch the panels AS far as possible

the extra long screws given are of the same spec i.e M4 as the phillips head screws. Only the heads are differnt for aesthetics

the screws i have given are Stainless Steel
the allen key is hardened steel

please go ahead and tighten

obvioulsy the screw will go in tight
It has to make its OWN threads
thats the whole point ( the extrsuion is meant for self taping screws)

Sir wood panels are far more costly than the aluminium extrsuions
they require sanding
then polish
then melamine
and lastly fitting in the inserts

whats more
the wood panels wont work in the B1 cab
the wood panels are 19mm thick
they will eat into the space of the baseplate- the core, PS supply , phonostage PCBs wont fit
Not only that since i dont have the front and rear plates now - allignemnt issues will be serious


knobs
im sorry
you guys will have to cross maill yourselves if you do not like the combination

or capt mail me the beveled knob back
ill add a knob in your power amp
same dimsns only NO bevel

i dont have knobs in stock currently
but may produce a couple next week

 

[captrajesh]

threading was NEVER done on the side panel
the screws made their own threads as i screwed them in
the side panel is meant for self tapping screws
and this was the reason i kept saying in my mails and posts- DONT detatch the panels AS far as possible

I understood your POV; I have not removed but they have come loose because of the rough handling by the courier guys.

the allen key is hardened steel

please go ahead and tighten

That is precisely the reason why I didn't want to put extra torque force to tighten them lest i may break it. Don't worry, I'll handle this part; with or without the alllen key.

wood panels are far more costly than the aluminium extrsuions
they require sanding
then polish
then melamine
and lastly fitting in the inserts

whats more
the wood panels wont work in the B1 cab
the wood panels are 19mm thick
they will eat into the space of the baseplate- the core, PS supply , phonostage PCBs wont fit
Not only that since i dont have the front and rear plates now - allignemnt issues will be serious

No problem, send me the wooden panels in raw form and inserts separately without doing any processing. I want them for grain matching as the wooden pieces sent are not to my liking. I'll take care or the rest. I'll shave off 4mm and ensure mirror polishing.

knobs
im sorry
you guys will have to cross maill yourselves if you do not like the combination

or capt mail me the beveled knob back
ill add a knob in your power amp
same dimsns only NO bevel

i dont have knobs in stock currently
but may produce a couple next week

No one has responded to my suggestion which is surprising. One smaller plain knob and one larger beveled knob cannot be fitted onto one box due to aesthetic reasons. Though i prefer the smaller plain knob, since you do not have more of it, I'll send you the plain knob which you may substitute with a beveled knob. I'd also need similar additional knob for the power amp also.

 

[magma]

Cab

Pass Labs F5 Turbo 100W/channel class A
Heatsink 16 inches wide 12 inches tall - 3.2 inches high
Heatsink base 12mm thick Fins extend for 3 inches

overengineered for cities in India - to work even in a Non AC room and run cool

Edit : cab below is a monoblock

2 such cabs will be done for a stereo setup





still incomplete

 

[keith_correa]

Cab

Pass Labs F5 Turbo 100W/channel class A
Heatsink 16 inches wide 12 inches tall - 3.2 inches high
Heatsink base 12mm thick Fins extend for 3 inches

overengineered for cities in India - to work even in a Non AC room and run cool





still incomplete

What a brute!!! :clapping:

 

[magma]

ohh i forgot to add
the above cab is ONLY for 1 channel

2 such cabs are being done

its the F5 turbo MONOBLOCK

 

[magma]

crankys f5 turbo monos

 

[anilva]

Magma,

Very good from heatsinking and build perspective. Symmetry seems to have gone awry....

Cheers.

 

[magma]

Magma,

Symmetry seems to have gone awry....

Cheers.

umm why ?
they are symmetrical monoblocks arent they?

this is how they look
ImageShack

 

[anilva]

umm why ?
they are symmetrical monoblocks arent they?

this is how they look
ImageShack

I did not mean between two monoblocs. The monobloc is not symmetrical with two big heatsinks struck on the front side and huge step after that for the cabinet.

My view is that one heatsink on either side of the cabinet would make more evenly dimensioned cabinet.

The other option is, you could have just raised the cabinet height to suit the heatsink height or cut the heatsink to the cabinet height which ever way.

The shape in current form looks quite odd. My two cents.

Cheers.

 

[magma]

I did not mean between two monoblocs. The monobloc is not symmetrical with two big heatsinks struck on the front side and huge step after that for the cabinet.

My view is that one heatsink on either side of the cabinet would make more evenly dimensioned cabinet.

The other option is, you could have just raised the cabinet height to suit the heatsink height or cut the heatsink to the cabinet height which ever way.

The shape in current form looks quite odd. My two cents.

Cheers.

ahhh ok now i get what you mean

hmm the cabinets are custom made for the raksang rack

once they are loaded onto the rack they will fit it- thats where the overhang will make sense

maybe the buyer will post his pics loaded onto the rack later

 

[anilva]

ahhh ok now i get what you mean

hmm the cabinets are custom made for the raksang rack

once they are loaded onto the rack they will fit it- thats where the overhang will make sense

maybe the buyer will post his pics loaded onto the rack later

I get it. If is being mounted in a rack, does not matter with the overhang, as long it is the face.

Cheers.