Another diy project on the anvil

Brilliant, amazing that you are actually building whole amplifiers. I thought long and hard merely to switch out the OPTs in my Lyrita 2A3 to James OPTs. That along with a change to Sovtek 2A3 tubes changed the character of the amp significantly for the better. The next step is to change the interstage transformers to James. The case is ill suited to the James OPTs, i want to change the case to a metal top plate. Can you tell me how how you procured the case?

Also on the cards is an upgrade to the speaker binding posts.
 
mpw: Aerosol cans are generally confiscated by the TSA unfortunately, but I am aware that both WD 40 and Deoxit are available in SP Road.

beast of burden: chassis is a bit tricky initially, but if done right is not a daunting task. The key is to get your chassis dimensions first-a little planning helps.I plan to layout my PCBs, transformers and tubes and make a rough drawing. A friend here does his drawings using CAD, prints them out and then discusses them with the fabricator. The second part is deciding what path to follow-metal or wood/copper or brass top plate. The final bit is to locate the vendor, someone who does enclosures for UPS or similar applications will be experienced and have the capabilities. For copper/brass laser cutting and drilling one needs to do some research to find the right vendor. I have spoken to someone before leaving India, who said he could do this for me, plan to meet and talk to him once I return.

I have been very impressed with the capabilities of our domestic vendors, provided they have the time and patience to deal with one off orders from hobbyists like us. I did a Hiraga Class A ss amp a couple of years ago, and the fit and finish were top class, prices were very competitive. Unfortunately lack of regular commercial orders from his customers to him have made him shut shop and I am not sure of his future plans.

The dimension of my 300B chassis, for example, is around 15 inches deep and 18-19 inches wide-since there are two OPTs flanking the mains transformer. The trick is to have enough space to assemble all the components from below and not to have a congested and tight layout. The height of the chassis in my case is going to be around 5 inches since I have a heatsink at the rear which is around 3 1/2 inches high.

If I am going to make a wooden plate then I will adjust the size of the top plate accordingly. In your case I would suggest the best option is to ask Viren to send across a plate of the exact dimensions and get it drilled to mount your components locally. The measurements can be easily for drilling taken from your current amp.
 
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I met a supplier of brass name plates for residences. He can supply polished brass plates in custom sizes. More later

I would be interested in getting the amplifier top plate. Can he also cut out the holes to fit the tube holders? What is the thickness of the brass plate?
 
while working on my 300B I have got sidetracked by various other commitments, so work has been slower than I expected. In the meantime I have mated my Bugle to my Altecs which are around 100dB and the results are very gratifying. I use an EL 34 pp with my Tannoys now. I played around with biamping the Altecs using my Hiraga Le Monstre 20wpc Class A for the LFs and the Bugle SET for the HFs but wasnt impressed with the results so have gone back to the Bugle.
 
I'm doing grandparenting duty in the US, that's what's up! While I do check this forum occasionally, I stopped posting here since there was nothing new to post. Hopefully I will update once something happens..in the meantime, the Bugle continues to give me SET pleasure. .
Cheers
 
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