Anyone using 2.35:1 screen setup with the Anamorphic lens?

When I dig I get treasure out of you....simply kidding!

Thats fabulous man!!!

I will surely try this method first, how does tha Matt White paint gives in terms of gain. Are you able to differentiate vs your pulldown screen?

srinisundar said:
Why screen fabric, i mentioned only plain white wall painted with Asian paints matt white.This will give a very good finish.

Frame is very easily available in all wood shops or if you need some artistic frame you can go for wholesale frame shop fixtures and you can get very easily less than Rs.500 to 650( 4 pieces).... I just bought four pieces to the required sizes and cut in the corner to suit and brought to my house and fixed with my carpenter help.

Regards
Click to expand...
 
eummagic said:
When I dig I get treasure out of you....simply kidding!

Thats fabulous man!!!

I will surely try this method first, how does tha Matt White paint gives in terms of gain. Are you able to differentiate vs your pulldown screen?
Click to expand...

Actualy the screen i shown beow is my earlier screen "Liberty-Matt white" which i returned back to them since it was wrongly delivered instead of 16:9. I could not feel any( much) massive difference between two. I compared playing lot of movies.. Visual Effect of using screen is '0".

Later I was replaced by liberty with "Silver Grey" and could see lot of difference between matt white and my wall.. The difference is grey is eating the bright colours atleast by 20% and silver is slightly helping to enhance the brightness out of grey. But overall the viewing pleasure is absolutely good and i have not felt fatigue of watching more than 6 /7 hours continuos.
I have returned the screen becaue there are visible shrink on the screen.

However now that i am using now "Snow white" brand bought from china and have glass bead(gain1.2) and Matt white(1.0),,, but i could see fantastic difference between Liberty brand and Snowwhite. Mattwhite and Glassbead has been slightly mixed wih grey combination and it is giving fatigue free view and absorbs the reflection from screen( to an extent). I could see some colours are vibrant slightly from my wall( not great which can be found in normal viewing).

So on my view if wall is pukka putty finished and later applied with paint which is available localy( i have used asian paints interior emulsion-mattwhite)solve the pupose and meet the gain 1.0 and obsolutely it will do justice to your projector. High gain screen can be used only for the low end projectors with less lumens.

The above is only for the guys who are intended to do fixed frame screens ///
 
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Thats a great way to experiment, Thanks a lot Srini. I will definitely try your method first.

srinisundar said:
Actualy the screen i shown beow is my earlier screen "Liberty-Matt white" which i returned back to them since it was wrongly delivered instead of 16:9. I could not feel any( much) massive difference between two. I compared playing lot of movies.. Visual Effect of using screen is '0".

Later I was replaced by liberty with "Silver Grey" and could see lot of difference between matt white and my wall.. The difference is grey is eating the bright colours atleast by 20% and silver is slightly helping to enhance the brightness out of grey. But overall the viewing pleasure is absolutely good and i have not felt fatigue of watching more than 6 /7 hours continuos.
I have returned the screen becaue there are visible shrink on the screen.

However now that i am using now "Snow white" brand bought from china and have glass bead(gain1.2) and Matt white(1.0),,, but i could see fantastic difference between Liberty brand and Snowwhite. Mattwhite and Glassbead has been slightly mixed wih grey combination and it is giving fatigue free view and absorbs the reflection from screen( to an extent). I could see some colours are vibrant slightly from my wall( not great which can be found in normal viewing).

So on my view if wall is pukka putty finished and later applied with paint which is available localy( i have used asian paints interior emulsion-mattwhite)solve the pupose and meet the gain 1.0 and obsolutely it will do justice to your projector. High gain screen can be used only for the low end projectors with less lumens.

The above is only for the guys who are intended to do fixed frame screens ///
Click to expand...
 
Hi all,

Iam not able to convince myself by setting an anamorphic emulation instead of the real anamorphic lens along with the projector even though Iam impressed with the Pana4000 reviews floating in the Net.

Has any member in this forum have a Anamorphic lens fitted to his/her projector? If yes, what is the cost involved?

I found from one of the forum DIY Anamorphic Lens.

NB: There is also one more thread from other forum, but I don't know whether Iam supposed to link the same here as per our forum rules.

Are anamorphic lens available in our country, at reasonable rates?

If it is mission possible, then I would like to go in for the curved 2.35:1 screen just like we see in our theatres.
 
eummagic said:
I have got quote for Rs.3,35,000/- for Anamorphic lens. Whew!:eek: Thats a big hole in my pocket. Iam also trying with other vendors and will update in the forum.
Click to expand...

triple the cost of the Pana4000!!!

instead u cud invest on a solid proseccor /power blocks and great spkrs to go along with the Pana
 
eummagic said:
You are right, I have also enquired with the Panamorph dealer in India Electronics and should be getting the quote by tommorow.
Click to expand...

Try the CAVX lens which is one of the best in the lot for VFM (I think 1500GBP some for MKIII, not sure about MKIV). But you need to import it through some of your friend by dismantling it so that the customs will consider it as just a 2 glass pieces.
 
Thanks! BTW, from where can I get this lens.

cmsajith said:
Try the CAVX lens which is one of the best in the lot for VFM (I think 1500GBP some for MKIII, not sure about MKIV). But you need to import it through some of your friend by dismantling it so that the customs will consider it as just a 2 glass pieces.
Click to expand...
 
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Meanwhile, I got searching thro' a forum (just pasting the contents)


Q. How do I make a DIY Anamorphic Projection set up?

A. In reality, there are only three aspects to the DIY approach..The Lens..The lens Mount and the Screen..

LENSES:

You have two choices.
1. Buy a lens in kit form or partially assembled.
2. Buy the individual prisms, and make a box to hold them in position..

Lets start with the first option..

There are at least 2 individuals (no names given here) in the US and possibly more, and 1 in Australia, who will sell either a lens kit or a partially assembled lens..
They usually come with information on how to align the prisms and or the assembly of the unit..
The price you pay for this type of lens system, is far les than buying a commercial anamorphic lens..

The second option (and many have done this) is to buy your own prisms, make a box to hold them, and align the prisms yourself..

These prisms can be readily bought from Trophy Shops, sometimes online, or from individuals who will sell you a pair ready for mounting, but make sure that they are large enough..5"x7" being ideal..and that they don't have any engraving or other markings on them..

This is how easy it can be to set them up...

Several people have just placed their projector on a table or shelf, and just stand the prisms in front of the projector and angled them until they fill the 2.37:1 screen!..It's that easy..

Whilst they do get a Scope projected image, it's far from ideal, because the prisms will reflect light to the back and side walls..Also there is nothing to contain stray light fields, which will have a detrimental effect on the contrast of the projected image..

Like all lens systems, it's best to contain the optics in an enclosure that has a totally black, non reflective surface.

LENS MOUNTS:

There are numerous designs that have been made to hold the lens in place..
There are two types..FIXED and SLIDING..The latter may also be motorised with remote control..

Some have found (as I have) that they don't need a slide mount, and just rigidly mount the lens in front of the projector..
This means that all the aspect ratio's (with the exception of 1.33:1) are projected through the lens, and remain at virtually the same height for each..
On 1.78 and 1.85:1 images, you do lose a little definition, but barely noticeable, than if you had removed the lens and set the projector to the required format..But when you convert to an Anamorphic system, one tends to try and avoid these aspect ratio's as much as possible..
The other aspect of this is that if you watch all AR through the lens, you never have to reposition the lens..

If you do watch 1.33:1 movies, then a slide will be necessary to move the lens away..You may even have to re-position or use a higher screen with masking for the narrower AR's..which kind of defeats the purpose of CIH.. if your zoom control won't give you enough adjustment to reduce the height of the 1.33 image..

I actually have a slide mount, but I don't use it for the purpose it was intended..I have found it very useful for when I want to clean the lens..It's easier to clean it on a bench than up in the air, so I just slide it off the mount when cleaning is needed..

SCREENS:

Well I won't be going into all the various types of DIY screens that are out there...That's an individual choice..
Suffice to say that the screen aspect ratio should be 2.37- 2.40:1 for anamorphic projection..
The most common is 2.37, but some prefer to get the full width image when projecting 2.40:1 DVD's , but they generally are using some side masking for 2.35:1 movies..
Obviously, when you project 1.85 or 1.78 images, there are going to be black bars at the sides of the screen, but none top or bottom, so some prefer to have those bars masked anyway..

One very popular method of masking with CIH is the motorised, remote controlled curtain system, where you can stop the opening curtains at any point..
Others don't mind the black side bars, so they don't bother with any masking..

What you guys say about this?
 
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Hi Guys,

I have got quote for Schneider Anamorphic lens from R & S Electronics (R & S Electronics). I forgot the name of the person (he is a mallu settled in Mumbai) to whom I spoke because of the anxiety in the product. He told it ranges from 1.5L to 1.8L from fixed to sliding type.

He also told that Schneider will be launching a less expensive anamorphic lens within 4 months and he hopes that it should suit the Pana4000. Meanwhile, he told that by monday he will send a detail mail on the Anamorphic lens with different models. I will share the same as soon as I receive the mail.
 
eummagic said:
To be frank, once I heard the cost, I didn't mind asking for the model.
Click to expand...

I think its better you start with out the anamorphic lens for the time being, but with all the necessary arrangements for the anamorphic viewing. Once you are settled with 16:9 (for the time being you can also use mask for the screen), try searching for the lenses. Either you can try DIY route (a lot of people are doing it either by using fluid filled (water/oil) prisms or glass (from trophy manufacturers)) else go for a Cavx (as i told you earlier) or a branded one when your budget allows.
 
cmsajith said:
I think its better you start with out the anamorphic lens for the time being, but with all the necessary arrangements for the anamorphic viewing. Once you are settled with 16:9 (for the time being you can also use mask for the screen), try searching for the lenses. Either you can try DIY route (a lot of people are doing it either by using fluid filled (water/oil) prisms or glass (from trophy manufacturers)) else go for a Cavx (as i told you earlier) or a branded one when your budget allows.
Click to expand...

I am also going to try the DIY lenses first...
 
cmsajith said:
I think its better you start with out the anamorphic lens for the time being, but with all the necessary arrangements for the anamorphic viewing. Once you are settled with 16:9 (for the time being you can also use mask for the screen), try searching for the lenses. Either you can try DIY route (a lot of people are doing it either by using fluid filled (water/oil) prisms or glass (from trophy manufacturers)) else go for a Cavx (as i told you earlier) or a branded one when your budget allows.
Click to expand...

Thanks, I do have that in my mind and later going for lens option. Just waiting for the new model of Schneider optics 1.33x Cine Digitar LE to be launched by Aug and will decide accordingly.
 
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