DIY 10 Inch Subwoofer

Instead of plate amp i will be making a separate mono-block for this sub. Below are the photos of driver. Its 10 inch driver FS is around 26Hz. "Iwai" make.
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Sadik[/QUOTE
How about these bombshells ?
]
FB_IMG_1521987252152.jpgFB_IMG_1521987266168.jpg
 
Update.

Testing Done... The Results are as expected as per the design.. so the enclosure is QC Passed with respect to the Performance ;). Tight and Clean Bass, No Port Noise from the port even at High Volume (May be 75 to 80% of Full Volume, I have not tested it at full volume)

Below are Photos.
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This is Plate Amp through which i am driving this Sub-woofer. Its 200 Watts RMS @ 4 Ohms class AB Amplifier. I will be converting it to a Mono Block dedicated Amplifier. On the Amplifier plate at the right side you see is the cross over circuit. It has Frequency range selector from 40 to 150 Hz, a phase change switch, & a volume control.

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Now the Finishing work will start. It will take time to finish the enclosure for the proper looks.

Sadik
 
They look Heavy & Sturdy, Built quality is very good. Whats the Size of this Driver... Are TS Parameters Available...?
Hi,
These are 12 inchers. A 10 inch of the same type is also there. These are capable of handling upto 500W. These are custom made subs built around American parts used in Rockford Fosgate drivers. The frame used is a heavy duty vented cast aluminium type.
The motor structure is a beefy optimized dual stack magnet assembly made in house here in India.
The cone is a heavy duty but light weight kevlar composite paper type wirh a large roll santroprene rubber suspension driven by a 3 inch / 4 layer copper coil wound on Kapton former with a wind height of 2 inch. A flat Conex progressive roll spider is used for linear high excursion.
Vivek
 
Update.
This is Plate Amp through which i am driving this Sub-woofer. Its 200 Watts RMS @ 4 Ohms class AB Amplifier. I will be converting it to a Mono Block dedicated Amplifier. On the Amplifier plate at the right side you see is the cross over circuit. It has Frequency range selector from 40 to 150 Hz, a phase change switch, & a volume control.

Sadik

Hey sadik, where did you get the plate amplifier from ?
 
Hey sadik, where did you get the plate amplifier from ?

It's a DIY. I have made it. I could have made it even more better by using alluminium plate with Laser cutting and CNC machined. This one i made in hurry for testing purpose. You can see I have not even drilled the mounting holes on plate.

Sadik
 
Hi Friends,

Back with a new Project again. It's an 10 Inch Sub having internal volume of 69.5 ltrs tuned to 35Hz. Vent size is 106mm internal diameter x 200mm length. A cad model drawing is below. I will be using 18mm Plywood. Since its a Ported Enclosure, I have not provided heavy bracing inside but the bracing provided will be good enough to absorb the vibrations. External Dimensions are 650mm H x 350mm W x 432mm Deep. Base will be made by Joining 2 baffles of same size. Total thickness of Base will be 36mm.







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Cutting of all Baffles is done on CNC router. Below are the Photos of same.




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Sadik Bhatkar

Hello Sadik,
Keep up the good work! Cab and engraving looks fabulous.
The two pieces with the semi circular shape( shown in above photo) are those for cosmetic reasons or are they to provide a flush surface with the edge of the driver, port etc?
 
They are just for the aesthetics. This Project is on hold at present, because i am right now after my new amplifier project. Once it is completed i will start this project and keep on updating.
 
Update.

Testing Done... The Results are as expected as per the design.. so the enclosure is QC Passed with respect to the Performance ;). Tight and Clean Bass, No Port Noise from the port even at High Volume (May be 75 to 80% of Full Volume, I have not tested it at full volume)

Below are Photos.
QHTkAc4w_7Na6BuoLEjYqPxq4p6gkTpDKv0rFmz0u3_PGa13of76d6qBJoFN2-YVhq0PIzSMJrDGy4OqyEF29n_4mhoLYI0Ox7S5zfno23uDod6whyR1Akf8qPr_z9BYZ9KaDJfLDk3SCiqyrgFF5mNDZGeWFoNXoqa-1NXGOjnC4qxQ6dFi8sm8rufZmf-XJ6pTCxpmZE9xAuBcz6ch9FRVQPaGDXSAMcT7cSLAUwRm7BPmvdJXWHRnSuwjb5lZwl-ghs79m87_KUK_fdeGJmcoxI8DeWq24ON9mo1WnggoRIA0AYhdSMLxI-IcEPj4zqPw5qIozb0TqtdIKUMlTcG9jYxc6ZqI7O55fGQRa6U4ND5xa9ifLK8kqufgx8z57IOxk3GOe5aZOYfGUE4N1X6nb75FeaMeQGW0ElJvHJQLX45h-H0fRdk0dbWsR52ECUdEUQm1WncmIxSimSyBzO5qJgoYWeasTCQhzhMgYD0gOqkrBsBY4MM2WJeuZblxBThPRojU71J5OdX401rThPftH31t8zLRKHkBJtnBDp4hFLzc680fk7P5slgu-s1g7gnFFSHdz3Q4fvxQdje4oAP9y9RzwTmXqpN0_ds=w693-h923-no


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This is Plate Amp through which i am driving this Sub-woofer. Its 200 Watts RMS @ 4 Ohms class AB Amplifier. I will be converting it to a Mono Block dedicated Amplifier. On the Amplifier plate at the right side you see is the cross over circuit. It has Frequency range selector from 40 to 150 Hz, a phase change switch, & a volume control.

cvKUvln2cYu8i_W25xsIY8dRG3dERGPM28beBEwOXOCbumN9hWzcbxsqV-vcNnUmJzPTECZv9Q0dGM1-XlvM2CwajyKhMYbmLx4zfkoJ8-GNeqCGvwkoIOxyt-0_TmibM5HbgbTipK8LjdzYeYSps4d8QhVvdbedpuqzg-izFiPW_urg_T2HD24j8VI1N23T0XRB4UlvOTcq_jtxgQyGY_mLcMPHGo_NvljIQeF5uYjjU2CnM3d_v1GhrYJw6GT7PYihchkeKLx0eDs-ps-09JZOeJY-wt-PkMnZjK4VUHd__CnJx0QNY6HWcYSolnvgFO3Dh-5g23WMhccgk67d_fEy7lJQToSxKM4kUmrUTtEufgpBecVrsiFEA3BFfKBpExpwQO799-W6G6LIZUmdnvjpV4DZm8V3BsJs_7-jQhfzl0cbtLmgBWHQUXsS-SXGsPGyX16q6TdB51OKLXLB5UKnpvKeQeqkjqricH4FzgsrGPGbL7p0an_f_bDwkVJCwj25e2aGCfRE-vB2rtUrbVWqBgMz2NbvE5kU3TTVXdTP2PEQx6xsgzESr8V-BWcAr8F_aV0u1MoBEdJrkIY1xfTm6N_lYeO9FNg-eTE=w693-h923-no


Now the Finishing work will start. It will take time to finish the enclosure for the proper looks.

Sadik
BTW why use plywood?
Could have opted for MDF for better acoustic damping
Plywood will create sort of reverb effect due to it's stiff character right?
Is there any specific purpose for using ply in this build..
And please use speaker delay and protection kit for FET based class A amps
It will remove those annoying pop sound on turn on.
 
BTW why use plywood?
Could have opted for MDF for better acoustic damping
Plywood will create sort of reverb effect due to it's stiff character right?
Is there any specific purpose for using ply in this build..
And please use speaker delay and protection kit for FET based class A amps
It will remove those annoying pop sound on turn on.

Plywood is more stronger and durable than MDF. Plywood is hard then MDF hence it will not resonate easily, I have had also added Braces for extra support to prevent the resonance. If i would have used MDF then the enclosure would have been very heavy because i would have to use 1" thick MDF for this size of enclosure, plus MDF resonate easily so i have to use more braces to prevent the resonance hence making the box heavier, Secondly MDF is very soft and could get damaged very easily.

I am not concern about the damping factor, I had already covered the internal walls with foam which is good damping material. The plate Amp is class AB it already has a delay and speaker protection itself on Amp Board.
 
Hi sadiq.
Nice build,great diy effort,post some pic of the finished sub ..have you sold it..??

Thank You Rajesh. This project is on hold because i am on my new project of building class A amplifier again. Basically i am improving my earlier built Jean Hiraga 30 Watt Amplifier with New Proper Enclosure and Heavy Power Supply Bank. I hope you may have already checked my recent thread about the built.
 
Plywood is more stronger and durable than MDF. Plywood is hard then MDF hence it will not resonate easily, I have had also added Braces for extra support to prevent the resonance. If i would have used MDF then the enclosure would have been very heavy because i would have to use 1" thick MDF for this size of enclosure, plus MDF resonate easily so i have to use more braces to prevent the resonance hence making the box heavier, Secondly MDF is very soft and could get damaged very easily.

I am not concern about the damping factor, I had already covered the internal walls with foam which is good damping material. The plate Amp is class AB it already has a delay and speaker protection itself on Amp Board.
Ohh..
I thought MDF won't resonate as it's dense than plywood.
Anyhow if strength is needed then plywood is best. MDF is not weather resistant and structurally strong either.
If the amp has delay and spk. Protection then it's good.
I tried to make some class A amps in past ( may be like 3-4yrs ago) it would easily blow off a speaker when turned on by those large caps causing voltage drop across rails, due to in rush current..
 
That looks like a good driver, if it has sufficient excursion, you can go lower than 35Hz, maybe 30Hz
 
I had already covered the internal walls with foam which is good damping material.

hi sadiq,
what type (quality) of foam are you using for damping??? from
where did you buy from,thickness,its damping factors etc.,
as it will be an useful information to me for my diy box.
 
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