My first 3 way your inputs and thoughts.

chinoy

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So I put out word that Id like to add music to my workshop and asked my club members if they had any gear they were not using. Also purchased some diy boards which I plan to build.
These are the amps I have
1. An AKAI 40 watt RMS Amp
2. TDA7293 100 watt setup.
3. a 200 watt blameless design from VASP. That's 200 watts per channel.
4. A LM3886 amp 65 watt.
Most of the DIY Boards share a power supply which is 35-0-35 dc @ 15 AMPs.

The speakers I plan to use.
For the tweeter I have 1 inch 40 watt Peerless Silk Dome. (This is already in a pair of bookshelves and it sounds amazing.). I also have a pair of Danity 1 inch silk dome tweeters All 8 ohms.
For the mid of the full range part of the 3 way I have a Boston 48414 40 watt RMS 8 inch 8 ohms.

For the woofer I have purchased Sweton SBS 10 inch double magnet.
I have all the TS for these speakers. And would like to thank Sweton for all the help provided. They really went above and beyond in answering all my questions.
I was thinking of using other brands like Doge but the Made in India bit for Sweton locked me in on putting money down. Also considered the 12 inch Pro series from Sweeton. But was told that this 10 Inch Home series would be better suited to my amps and application.

Some history on what I am using.
So one of the speakers donated to me was a bookshelf which consisted of the Same Boston 48414 with the peerless speakers.
To be honest I have never heard anything that sounds so good. Its even better than my Bose Book Shelf Series II speakers. Way better. The only problem being that these bookshelves have zero bass. Hence the idea to add a woofer to get some base.
I have two options I can build a separate box for just the 10 Inch woofer. And place the book shelf on top of it.
Or I can build a fresh 3 way setup. Where I will have the woofer, the full range and the tweeter.
I have the basic data entered up in winisd and I have been reading up.

My questions
1. What cross over points would I use for the woofer when designing the cross over. Im not going to ask for the cross over points for the Full Range and tweeter as I dont have the TS for them. So the plan will be to experiment. But if you want to throw a number out that would help.
2. When designing a box they always ask what freq you want to target. I know for subs they recommend a freq target off 30-35Hz. But this is for subs I could not find any recommendation for woofers. My TS says 43 Hz. So should I pick this value ?.

Did spend months looking thru various speaker specs before picking this woofer. It had to be something that was under 5K per pair. I am on a tight budget. I also have 4 x 4 Inch danity mids that I could use but I am convinced nothing sounds as good as the 8 inch Boston Full Range. Any help finding TS for these Boston speakers would be appreciated. I did read here that Philips used to make an identical speaker.
Have hooked up the 10 Inch Woofer 150 watt to my system without a box.
As it was 150 watt and my other channel was playing just a 40 watt bookshelf was expecting the woofer to be soft but funny thing it sounded just as loud as the 40 watt speaker in fact louder.
The other surprise was even though the Freq curve shows a shard drop off at 2000Hz it felt like I was listening to a full range speaker.
So far the best ported box size I could calculate for this woofer was 100 ltrs. Which is a bit to large for my limited. space.
 

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My questions
1. What cross over points would I use for the woofer when designing the cross over. Im not going to ask for the cross over points for the Full Range and tweeter as I dont have the TS for them. So the plan will be to experiment. But if you want to throw a number out that would help.
hi,
Since you like the sound of 2 way that you already have. adding woofer for sub duty will be good and easy solution. to crossover the sub you need to know how the low end of the 2 way rolls off (+ at what sound pressure level) and decide on the crossover point + type of roll off for subwoofer. Otherwise at low end there would be peaks or dips with addition to room influence. A basic microphone will probably do the job of knowing rolloff point of 2 way. I had done crude measurement of speakers with mic that comes attached with Computer Headphone. Various frequency sweeps and tones are available on internet. Sometimes I wonder if a Mobile phone recording can do the job since we dont want any accurate measurements.

I hope others will soon join in to give proper suggestions.
regards
 
The PDF file contains the data shows the range these speakers work best at is 42-2000Hz. Hence my question does it make sense to target a freq of 30 hz when my speakers dont even go there.
How do you pick the target freq of a box whats the logic ?. There is so much info out there on subs. But here is my catch 22 I love bass. But I hate subs. Or at least all the subs I have seen and heard. The music always sounds better with the sub turned off. Agreed my exposure is limited to a few friends setups. Nothing profesional.

I had a friend test them 10 inch and his screen shot pretty much matches the data in the PDF.
Made a typo my tweeters are peerless 1 inch silk dome and I am very happy with how they sound in the book shelf.
The plan for now is to make a single box just for the 10 Inch. So far my best curve is with 30Ltrs. I know this would sound better with a 90-100 ltr box. But space is an issue.
Plan 1 is to first build a sealed box 30 Ltrs. (Or maybe even an open baffle) See how it sounds and measures and then plan B is to add a vent to the same box and see how it sounds. Plan C would be to build a single box that would have tweeter, mid / full + the 10 inch woofer.
The wife just re-did the kitchen and the bedroom wardrobes so I have unlimited qty of old MDF and Plywood. To experiment with.
Just need to buy a wood router. Have all the other tools.
I know nothing I do is ever going to match the sound you get when you put down 200$ per driver.
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The PDF file contains the data shows the range these speakers work best at is 42-2000Hz. Hence my question does it make sense to target a freq of 30 hz when my speakers dont even go there.
How do you pick the target freq of a box whats the logic ?.
I am sorry as I cant speak with authority. Usually drivers are crossed at atleast 2 octaves above Fs. (resonant frequency) For large woofer for low end and if intended design is ported this fs is avoided and let the port do the duty of still further extending the low end. For Cabinet volume Vas Data measurement is useful.
There is a thread on DiyAudio about building speakers without measuremts. Also Elliott Sound Product website has methods to measure basic specification of speakers which are not too difficult to do since you have oscilloscope.
I would advise to not aim for extended low end. I think usually 50hz is good target. at least whatever you will get will be comparatively clean and loud.
waiting for others to join in.
regards.
 
Ron, have you considered active cross overs ? is that an option ?

why not use an active cross over and start from a fixed point point and work your way down ? you have many amps, so you can dedicate one for the woofers ...
 
So I put out word that Id like to add music to my workshop and asked my club members if they had any gear they were not using. Also purchased some diy boards which I plan to build.
These are the amps I have
1. An AKAI 40 watt RMS Amp
2. TDA7293 100 watt setup.
3. a 200 watt blameless design from VASP. That's 200 watts per channel.
4. A LM3886 amp 65 watt.
Most of the DIY Boards share a power supply which is 35-0-35 dc @ 15 AMPs.

The speakers I plan to use.
For the tweeter I have 1 inch 40 watt Peerless Silk Dome. (This is already in a pair of bookshelves and it sounds amazing.). I also have a pair of Danity 1 inch silk dome tweeters All 8 ohms.
For the mid of the full range part of the 3 way I have a Boston 48414 40 watt RMS 8 inch 8 ohms.

For the woofer I have purchased Sweton SBS 10 inch double magnet.
I have all the TS for these speakers. And would like to thank Sweton for all the help provided. They really went above and beyond in answering all my questions.
I was thinking of using other brands like Doge but the Made in India bit for Sweton locked me in on putting money down. Also considered the 12 inch Pro series from Sweeton. But was told that this 10 Inch Home series would be better suited to my amps and application.

Some history on what I am using.
So one of the speakers donated to me was a bookshelf which consisted of the Same Boston 48414 with the peerless speakers.
To be honest I have never heard anything that sounds so good. Its even better than my Bose Book Shelf Series II speakers. Way better. The only problem being that these bookshelves have zero bass. Hence the idea to add a woofer to get some base.
I have two options I can build a separate box for just the 10 Inch woofer. And place the book shelf on top of it.
Or I can build a fresh 3 way setup. Where I will have the woofer, the full range and the tweeter.
I have the basic data entered up in winisd and I have been reading up.

My questions
1. What cross over points would I use for the woofer when designing the cross over. Im not going to ask for the cross over points for the Full Range and tweeter as I dont have the TS for them. So the plan will be to experiment. But if you want to throw a number out that would help.
2. When designing a box they always ask what freq you want to target. I know for subs they recommend a freq target off 30-35Hz. But this is for subs I could not find any recommendation for woofers. My TS says 43 Hz. So should I pick this value ?.

Did spend months looking thru various speaker specs before picking this woofer. It had to be something that was under 5K per pair. I am on a tight budget. I also have 4 x 4 Inch danity mids that I could use but I am convinced nothing sounds as good as the 8 inch Boston Full Range. Any help finding TS for these Boston speakers would be appreciated. I did read here that Philips used to make an identical speaker.
Have hooked up the 10 Inch Woofer 150 watt to my system without a box.
As it was 150 watt and my other channel was playing just a 40 watt bookshelf was expecting the woofer to be soft but funny thing it sounded just as loud as the 40 watt speaker in fact louder.
The other surprise was even though the Freq curve shows a shard drop off at 2000Hz it felt like I was listening to a full range speaker.
So far the best ported box size I could calculate for this woofer was 100 ltrs. Which is a bit to large for my limited. space.
Hi chinoy :)

It will actually be a lot easier to just build a bass cabinet to ho beneath the existing book shelf speaker that you like. Since you are located in bangalore, iam sure you can find some minidsp users, which provide instantaneous digital crossovers to test and finalise various cross over points and slopes. Once done...then you can design analogue crossovers with the parameters.

All the best for your project :)
 
A quick update.
Since I made this post.
Ive got 15 inch Eminence Gama 15A2 woofers. In a huge scoop cabinet. They sound amazing.
Eminence PSD2002 Compression driver. With Horn. Works well from 1.6Khz to 10Khz. After 10Khz it falls flat.
10 Inch Sweeton Double Magnet. Woofer. (This has been put on the back burner). But the good news is whatver T/S sweeton provided match when tested with my own gear. )
8 Inch full range. Philips / Boston.
1 Inch Silk dome. Peerless. To handle 10K to 20K.
I may drop the idea of using the CD because the full range + Silk dome does a brilliant job. Here.

I also got a calibrated Mic Umic 1. And a Dats V3.

You can use Peace EQ on windows. To clean up everything and then build the cross over to match.
Yes the plan is to have one amp for the Woofers. And one for the Mids and Highs.
My amp options are TDA72094 for the mids and highs and Class a/b for the woofers.
Also have a STK Amp. And a woodstock amp.
For tone control I have a 10 Bang EQ that works much better than any tone control board. And I have tested more than a few boards.
 
It will be better to make separate enclosures for the woofers. Use another amplifier to power them. Add an active subwoofer/low pass filter to the amp and you shall have variable frequency control for the woofers. You will need to derive 12-0-12 supply from the existing supply of the amplifier. 7812 and 7912 regulators can be used for that.
 
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