DIY :Pass F5 Turbo V2 Joshua & Ali's Documented Build

The soft start boards and momentary switches are OK from what I see. I have used a similar board on my Turbo V3 build.

Cheers.
 
The soft start boards and momentary switches are OK from what I see. I have used a similar board on my Turbo V3 build.

Cheers.

Magma, audiocraft boards are same. The advantage of soft switch, I already mentioned in last 2-3 lines of my post#73. By default amp is 'off' when powered on though it may be power resumption after interrupted.

Thanks for the confirmations. We, the two builders, are on uncharted territory here, so every advice and affirmation (and admonitions) are much appreciated.
 
There are fancy door handles of myriad shapes and sizes in Dadar West, just near the Kabutarkhana. May be we can try them.
Joshua, closer to home - get into Juhu Lane from SV Road. Inside Juhu Lane at the traffic light turn left. Keep going [a 3 min walk] till you see a shop "Jignesh...." to the left of the road. Has lots of door handles. I'm sure you will find something suitable there.
 
Jignesh is there and there are atleast 15 to 20 shops at parla station and santacruz station

But will the door handles look good on the amp?

You can try sonething out of the box specially with ali having access to all kinds of tools and machinery
 
But will the door handles look good on the amp?

That is a the million dollar question:), Rikhav.

Most door handles I have seen are made of stainless steel. When paired to the aluminium face plate, it could look incongruent and out of place. The alternative is to CNC it from solid aluminium but I think this will take up the cost substantially.
 
I used these simple ones but sturdy, polished and anodised Aluminum.

image949p.jpg
 
That is a the million dollar question:), Rikhav.

Most door handles I have seen are made of stainless steel. When paired to the aluminium face plate, it could look incongruent and out of place. The alternative is to CNC it from solid aluminium but I think this will take up the cost substantially.

The stratos I have is also close to 35 kgs. But the top part is such that it can held if one wants to lift the amp

Maybe you guys can make such changes in design which can aid in lifting and then you dont need to make or fit separate handles

Or sonething like what your arc pre has

Edit just saw the post by omishra after I posted. Its quiet a good solution and similar to arc pre I guess
 
<snip>The alternative is to CNC it from solid aluminium but I think this will take up the cost substantially.
IMO, is not worth the cost of creating it. Especially since it is not going to add anything sonically. Wait! Maybe I spoke too soon. Maybe the handles do affect the sonics. Google time! :D
 
Small progress from my side: Perfect Metal's N56 heatsink will be ordered tomorrow. Size is 9 inch per piece (each heatsink is 215 mm wide and has 75 mm fin depth, as shown in previous post # 32 on this thread). Two to a side. Cost is Rs 1862 per 9" piece, including cutting. Add packing, shipping and taxes. Total comes to Rs 7963.

The transportation cost mentioned in the invoice was a measly 100 rupees from Bangalore to Mumbai. I suspected that there would be a catch somewhere:) And it was there. In fact, two catches - one, I was asked to shell out 370 more. Two, I had to go pick it up myself from the transporter's office in Sion. Up/down rickshaw fare would have been easily 200+200. So actual transportation cost is 100 + 370 + 400 = 870. I think this is still a fair price considering what couriers have charged me for shipping similar-sized packages. It is really heavy.

Now that I have the heatsinks, it is time to draft a detailed cabinet plan.
 

I saw magma's cabinet in the flesh today and it turned out to be much smaller than what I had envisaged in my mind's eye - it is 12 inch wide (inner, heatsink to heatsink) and about 16-1/2" deep (inner, face plate to rear plate), and tad over 7 inch inner height.

For perspective, my current power amp is 16" wide and 17" deep.

So magma is planning to increase the depth substantially, by almost a third, to nearly 23-1/2". That will give it plenty of room to re-arrange the innards and plenty of room for air to circulate.
 
The transportation cost mentioned in the invoice was a measly 100 rupees from Bangalore to Mumbai. I suspected that there would be a catch somewhere:) And it was there. In fact, two catches - one, I was asked to shell out 370 more. Two, I had to go pick it up myself from the transporter's office in Sion. Up/down rickshaw fare would have been easily 200+200. So actual transportation cost is 100 + 370 + 400 = 870. I think this is still a fair price considering what couriers have charged me for shipping similar-sized packages. It is really heavy.

Now that I have the heatsinks, it is time to draft a detailed cabinet plan.

Jousha,

The 100 Rs. quoted in the invoice is for packing and forwarding it to the transporter. We have to pay the actual shipping charge while collecting the material.
You are right 370+100 is still cheap for such a heavy shipment.

Thanks,
Bibin
 
For perspective, my current power amp is 16" wide and 17" deep.

.

your power amp is 16 inch wide without the sinks ??

how wide is it with the sinks ?

with the new dimesnsions
my cab will now be 19inch wide with the sinks and a giagantic 23.5 inch deep

and ofcourse we will now be adding a 2 more pieces of heatsinks !
taking the effective heatsinks upto 23 kgs
theres no way the bias is gonna change due to excesive heat now!
 
Q for magma:

From the pics, it looks like you have used right angled strips to hold the frame/chassis in place. I'm assuming that the angles are attached to the strips of the frame using hex bolts - is that correct? How are the bolts attached to the frame?
 
Q for magma:

From the pics, it looks like you have used right angled strips to hold the frame/chassis in place. I'm assuming that the angles are attached to the strips of the frame using hex bolts - is that correct? How are the bolts attached to the frame?

It uses a cast L-angled join that fits into the groove of the frames. It is then tightened by one grub screw at each arm of the L. The grub screws are already part of the cast L joint. I think magma can post a pic or two. I can't explain it better.
 
It uses a cast L-angled join that fits into the groove of the frames. It is then tightened by one grub screw at each arm of the L. The grub screws are already part of the cast L joint. I think magma can post a pic or two. I can't explain it better.
I just took a closer look at the frame and think I got the answer to my Q. The bolt goes through the hole in the arm of the angle and is screwed into a tnut which is fitted into the groove of the frames. Am i right?
 
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