DIY :Pass F5 Turbo V2 Joshua & Ali's Documented Build

Keeping the trafo on one side would result in disproportionate distribution of the weight. Keeping the cap bank and the rectifier boards on either side would be a better option IMO.

Most power amps are disproportionally weighted
the conrad johnsons, the gryphons , the parasounds
etc

but the trafo kept furthest away from the Ips and Ops and caps is more important
also this config allows for the shortest wiring

trafo to rectifier to cap boards

and each cap board is closest to its respective mosfet board that it is feeding
 



Joshua's dropped of the boards today so i can tap the spreader and baseplate

Stunningly neat and accurate job i must say
im sure this took a lot of work

New cab shows 6 heatsinks and and extended size
the trafo is one really heavy boy

Wiring in that constrained space will be a big challenge. I am sure you have some ideas to overcome this.


Cheers.
 
constrained space?

are you sure ?

the cab measures 20 inches wide and 24 inches deep

free space inside is 12 inches by 22 inches ( without the sinks )

you have a bigger cab ??
i would be surprised !!!

infact i have not come across a cab as big as mine yet
 
constrained space?

are you sure ?

the cab measures 20 inches wide and 24 inches deep

free space inside is 12 inches by 22 inches ( without the sinks )

you have a bigger cab ??
i would be surprised !!!

infact i have not come across a cab as big as mine yet

Magma chill! Don't fly away. I know you have a BIG cabinet, but I cannot see the space to do wiring, because you have so many cross members obstructing. Anyway, if you have space to do the wiring, I have no problem at all....go ahead.
 
it did

i was just too lazy to click another photo
you cant see it cause its smaller in diameter by a couple mm
 
a wee bit more progress made
test fit
below

a
small issue encountered
no place to put a mini (1.5 inch by 1.5inch ) adapter for running my fan
need to figure that out

thanks to joshua for the nylon moulded brass spacersthey were invaluable!!
and i broke my head trying to find them

also advice for other guys

try having a layout where you can keep the rectifier board between the two capacitor bank boards

that way you dont need to go deep
and still have minimal wiring and a neat layout

try and have the softstart mounted on the rear of the rear plate as well as per oms advice

Also if you are building - HEAVY
the framework i have done in my cab also should not be overlooked
the framework really supports the amp parts well and adds a lot of flexibility and ease of fitting

keep enough gaps for air intake
it is essential

rmemebr heatsinks radiate inside the cabinet as well

hence cabinet should not be too congested
keep enough space above the cab banks
(i have about 5 inches clear space )

running the mosfets and caps as cool as possible should be priority


now some pics







 
Rectifier board is mounted on some sort of black/greyish plate. Is that aluminium or copper? Also, is that plate mated to the bottom plate?

And the footers - is that SS with felt bottom? Permanently fitted?

BTW, the anodizing has made it look quite pro
 
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Warning again: Capacitor Boards: The screws /spacers around copper clad on both sides need some mica washers. Please use one each on top and bottom of Capacitor board's mounting holes. There are near +v, and -V around holes. Must not be shorting into its mounting screws.
 
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Rectifier board is mounted on some sort of black/greyish plate. Is that aluminium or copper? Also, is that plate mated to the bottom plate?

And the footers - is that SS with felt bottom? Permanently fitted?

BTW, the anodizing has made it look quite pro

thats an aluminium plate

i was gonna mate it to the main base plate below
but i spoke to OM and sangram
and both were OK with it being on spacers ( i.e not mated )(
both felt the 10 inch by 4 inch aluminium was enough of a sink for the rectifier

footers are currently Stainless steel
with a felt base
they will probably be replaced by the cerabase after full completeion

What metal that central mounting bolt is made of? Looks like, its a steel/Fe..

Would that interfere with the magnetic field effect of the transformer? If so, how about using nylon/PP bolts to an extend aluminium..

nope
the bolt does not interfere with the fileds
it is parallet to the field and not perpendicular nor does it intersect


OM
yes i have added the mica washers below the pcbs
(between the spacer and the bottom of the pcb)

i forgot to add them on the top side

thanks for the heads up

JOshua please make a note of this when you remove the boards for resoldering
 
Mr Joshua
too swamped with work

if Mr Mishra is upto it
i dont mind lugging the amp to PUNE for him to finish it

im in pune soon
 
Magma, I am struggling with time. But it would nicer after couple of months more.

Anyway I promised you that I could be able to set quotient current of it.
 
Joshua

i dont think you should be too concerned if you choose to use 9 inch sinks

I can lay money that your amp will not require forced cooling

heres the cranky monster with 10 inch sinks





its cool for a 5 yr old to touch as reported from the owner
He is was running it full biased in the Delhi ( now Kolkatta ) summer

if he can run this fully biased using the MG75 at 10 inches
You can surely run with the MG98 with 9 inches

Hi Magma, I was just wondering do you know who made the MG75 heatsink or have the technical info for it, I just also ordered 4 of them they are over 10" tall. so im hoping to build an F5 Turbo V2 :)
 
yeh
BIg HOT spider

My 6 yrs old actually drilled two holes in the heatsink though when we were in office on sunday

Cool, I bet his was better than my drilling, I think ill get a machine to do mine lol
Now I need a good place for those 4 sinks to go and a good chassis.
 
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