GR Research Wharfedale Linton 85 upgrade

[balavignesh002]

Why his speaker design is so poor in measurement in ASR? If he elevate or improve any branded speaker to next level…

GR Research LGK 2.0 Speaker Review (A Joke)

This is a review and detailed measurements of the GR Research "Little Giant Killer" (LGK) 2.0 bookshelf speaker. It comes in various forms from a kit ($313) to fully finished pair ($1,038). Our DIY expert @Rick Sykora built my sample using the flatpack ($100): Rick had to do the round over on...

audiosciencereview.com

Well, you should ask this to GR Research and ASR about this.

I recomend you to think, Why ASR couldn't measure the emotions ?

Thats right…

Quality parts are not cheap.

 

[balavignesh002]

Whether the amount spent on the upgrades is worth or value addition, is purely an individual perception as far as audio or any other passion is concerned.

Any modification in my chain, needs an additional expense. If I have to use a software DSP, I need a PC or laptop, a good intel would be 50K plus. A hardware DSP should justify the existing setup, and to use a low cost DSP along with flagship CDP and AMP of Denon is not a compelling option for me.

The change is driven by the need, if people keep on exploring possibilities based on thinking if its "worth or not" they stand where they are.

Though he started as a car audio enthusiast, his past 2-year journey with the Lintons and his attempts at improving its sound quality based on some outside researches and suggestions have been quite interesting.

My objective is to get best out of what I have, and gain knowledge with all the experience what I get through.

That said he has accumulated some fantastic car audio gears over the years and has a lovely 4-way active set-up in his car, though I have not heard his last iteration after he moved out of Chennai.

Will catchup with you some day in Chennai, this L4 SE on Jetta is crossed at 250 Hz now. Its been long time since we met.

I am sure this journey of his will continue.

Yes, If there is a need; there is a journey.

 

[coaltrain]

Below Is a quote from Linton designer Peter Comeau, who posted his thoughts on designing (and modifying) the Linton crossover in a FB Group:

"I thought would put my official reply into this thread because there’s a lot of misinformation out there and it is worrying owners who, otherwise, would probably be quite happy with their speakers. I don’t want to get into arguments with people who have strong opinions on this subject, but you all deserve to know the difference between fact and BS. So here goes …

Resistors: as is typical in the hi-fi manufacturing industry, we use Cermet resistors. These are wirewound resistors encased in a ceramic housing. Generally they do their job very well and have minimal effect on dynamics. You can replace them with Mundorf Supreme and possibly get some benefit. I suspect that is probably the biggest audible difference in the HEADquarter Audio mod.

Capacitors: the majority of caps in the standard crossover are polypropylene. There are some high value electrolytics but they are bypassed with PP caps to reduce any distortion. So is there any reason to replace them? You could replace the electrolytics with a load of PP types but you’ll have trouble fitting them on the PCB.

I don’t really understand why HEADquarter Audio think that the really superb quality PP cap in the HF section can be improved by a Jantzen type? But I will get hold of some Jantzen caps and do some tests and report back on what I hear, probably after Christmas.

Coils: we use silicon iron layered core inductors in the bass and midrange in order to keep DC resistance low. These types of cores have a good hysteresis loop and, in general, I prefer to keep DC resistance low especially for high value inductors in the bass. There would be an audible difference if you replace the midrange coil with an air core but make sure you keep the DC resistance low. Which means a big coil! So you need to Mount it off the PCB and keep it well away and at right angles to the other coils.

What is often not appreciated about air core coils is that they are much more prone to electromagnetic interference than cored coils. So, if you’re going to use them, you need to space them well apart. Usually I use two PCBs if I’m going to do this.

Terminals: all our terminals are plated copper. Why people want to replace terminals like these I don’t understand. There might be a benefit in using a low metal content terminal like the special ones from WBT. Keeping the metal content low is supposed to reduce eddy current effects. But then you have all the wires and coils inside the speaker, which also contribute these effects, so what are you going to do?

Cables: we use good quality connecting cables internally. Some people like exotic cables. You could play around here but IMO the benefits, if any, are minimal. But maybe worth it to some people.

Solder connections to drive units: The reason we use push on connectors is to enable easy servicing. I have seen lots of drive units ruined by overheating the terminals when poorly soldered by hasty service mechanics. Years ago I held a blind listening test on soldered vs push on terminals. The results were inconclusive. Here’s why I think that is …

We crimp push on terminals onto the cables using high pressure machines. This makes an excellent metal to metal, air free joint. The push on terminals then slide tightly onto the drive unit terminal blades. This wiping action again makes a good metal to metal contact and our terminals are the locking type which means that contact stays stable. With soldered joints the current passes from the cable through solder to the blade. Most solder is an amalgam of different metals which lower its melting point, has a chemical action on the metal to wet it, and is oxidised when it melts and cools. If you’re going to use solder make sure it has a high percentage of silver and solder at the manufacturer’s recommended temperature.

Frequency response: Frequency response in axis at 1m doesn’t give you any clue as to how a speaker sounds. The ear/brain system is much more critical of temporal performance and whether the harmonic structure of an impulse is correct/realistic than it is of 3dB changes in frequency level. Also, how you make these measurements is critical. Making a gated response in-room, like GR Research, is prone to huge errors. Compare its results to the Stereophile and Erin’s Audio Corner reviews. Erin and Stereophile accord to the measurements I make as a designer.

Nuff said."

 

[rwnano]

I also wanted to upgrade my Focals 706 V 2 with GR research crossover. But gr research components are quite expensive. So...should I just use regular oil filled MPP capacitors of equivalent capacity but more voltage and move forward? Thank you

 

[availlyrics]

Years ago I held a blind listening test on soldered vs push on terminals. The results were inconclusive. Here’s why I think that is …

With thousands of soldered components in the signal path, few more speaker cable soldered joints won't make any audible difference , but in the longer run, properly soldered joint with a heat-shrink sleeves(anything that prevents corrosion) will provide lesser contact resistance than any type of connectors.

I have seen lots of drive units ruined by overheating the terminals when poorly soldered by hasty service mechanics.

Totally agree with all other points

 

[availlyrics]

I also wanted to upgrade my Focals 706 V 2 with GR research crossover. But gr research components are quite expensive. So...should I just use regular oil filled MPP capacitors of equivalent capacity but more voltage and move forward? Thank you

If I were you , I would stick to the original crossovers, higher capacitor voltages wont make any difference as all signals are AC. All crossovers "degrade" sound in one way or the other. Active crossovers with bi or tri-amping offers better solution

 

[balavignesh002]

I also wanted to upgrade my Focals 706 V 2 with GR research crossover.

I couldn't see upgrade kits listed for Focal 706v2 in GR Research under speaker upgrade kits. In this case you have to ship your speakers to Danny Richie for testing and arrive on upgrade kits.

 

[rwnano]

I couldn't see upgrade kits listed for Focal 706v2 in GR Research under speaker upgrade kits. In this case you have to ship your speakers to Danny Richie for testing and arrive on upgrade kits.

He just came out with a YouTube video on the same topic. Unfortunately quite expensive.

 

[rwnano]

He just came out with a YouTube video on the same topic. Unfortunately quite expensive.

 

[rwnano]

Focal Chorus 605 Upgrade Kit (Pair) | GR-Research

gr-research.com

 

[balavignesh002]

He just came out with a YouTube video on the same topic. Unfortunately quite expensive.

This upgrade kit is for Focal 605. But your speaker is Focal 706v2, how this solution will work for you?

 

[rwnano]

This upgrade kit is for Focal 605. But your speaker is Focal 706v2, how this solution will work for you?

Similar speakers?

 

[rwnano]

Frankly speaking I think that this is a waste of time...upgrading crossovers from stock for a minor benefit. Likely I won't do it

 

[balavignesh002]

Similar speakers?

Think so, perhaps may have similar problems.

I have used focals earlier and I like their bright sound signature.

Are you trying to upgrade the xovers for the similar reasons cited in that GR Research video by Danny?

Danny is talking about port noise issue causing bass notes to ring. Take a note of its remedy.

Think he has lowered the xover point for better response. If you plan to swap the existing components with hi quality ones your xover point remains the same.

Check with GR Research if this kit suits your speaker. I think you can order it with lower cost by opting out for norez and tube connector.

See if this can be carried by some one coming to India to lower the shipping cost.

Or there is one more option use a software EQ in the PC where you play music.

 

[ViktorG]

Damping the enclosure:
The speaker box is not braced as the midrange enclosure in the middle of the box doesn’t make things easy. can see only 1.5 inch gap between the sidewall and midrange enclosure. now damping the enclosure to reduce the resonance is not an easy task as every material to be taken inside the cabin through woofer and tweeter hole.

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Damping material for one wall weights 550 grams. the one made for woofer back side is 190 grams. Totalling to approximately 1300 grams per speaker weight increase.

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Just started by cutting the sheet based on the inner side wall measurement. This is not an east task with only blade and scissors. would appreciate if its pre-chopped as per the needs of specific kits what GR Research sells. Really its a pain and tedious task.

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Have to remove the tweeter to gain access to the space behind it. Used a 50MM chisel to pope the face plate then there are 3 screws to pull the tweeter out. need to be carefully and slowly done. this is a brand new chisel and needs to be sharpened, I used a sand paper to sharp it.

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One observation, the tweeter doesn't have any + or - marking for the terminals. I just pulled the speaker cable and found they used a red paint on the terminal lead to mark +ve. The inner side of terminal is not painted though, if they have painted tweeter may not have put any output. I have to remove them as I need to twist the speaker wire and solder it.

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Put one by one peaces, started from the top side by sliding the material through the gap of midrange enclosure and side wall. and my son helped to push the upper side peaces as my hand cannot get in the tweeter hole. Or else i may need a specialised tool to push them to the wall.

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Hello Bala, wonderful job, well done!

Small question, please: I have two left speakers, do you think it's possible to roll-over the tweeter for one of them, please?

From my understanding, removing the face plate of the tweeter is rather easy, but I don't know if it's possible to change the tweeter's enclosure position, is it a one piece with all the other inclosures?

Thank you in advance, regards

 

[balavignesh002]

Hello Bala, wonderful job, well done!

Small question, please: I have two left speakers, do you think it's possible to roll-over the tweeter for one of them, please?

From my understanding, removing the face plate of the tweeter is rather easy, but I don't know if it's possible to change the tweeter's enclosure position, is it a one piece with all the other inclosures?

Thank you in advance, regards

Hi Viktor,

Lintons tweeter are off centred. To convert one of your left speakers to right speaker, woodwork is needed. Even after that the Linton logo on tweeter face plate will be upside down, still the grills will cover that.

 

[ViktorG]

Hi Viktor,

Lintons tweeter are off centred. To convert one of your left speakers to right speaker, woodwork is needed. Even after that the Linton logo on tweeter face plate will be upside down, still the grills will cover that.

Thank you, I was affraid it will need woodwork, they complicated this part a bit. But I don't hear anything distorted or not right, it's just from an aesthetic point of view. I will leave them like that, thanks again for your time. Regards