Pass B1

As I quoted in my earlier post its a plain transparent liquid in which you can mix color as per your choice.
Is it varnish?

If you have seen my post in the Frugal horn thread on the polish, my carpenter had used a "Torquise" chalk powder and mixed with the sheenlac to get the matching finish as per my furniture.
OK, so now what's "Torquise"?

Are these colloquial or generic names for something? :confused:
 
Is it varnish?


OK, so now what's "Torquise"?

Are these colloquial or generic names for something? :confused:

Sheenlac is a polish and I do not think its varnish. "Torquise" is the name of the chalk powder color which matches to my furniture which is walnut finished. It could be a generic name not sure as nothing is mentioned on the powder packet other than the name of the color. This is what my carpenter got from a paint store for 5/- each and which he mixed with the sheenlac to make a paste and fills the gaps and apply on the entire surface. Then he used the plain sheenlac to get the shiny finish with multiple quotes. You get this chalk powder in all paint stores especially used for wood furniture.
 
Sheenlac is a polish and I do not think its varnish. "Torquise" is the name of the chalk powder color which matches to my furniture which is walnut finished. It could be a generic name not sure as nothing is mentioned on the powder packet other than the name of the color. This is what my carpenter got from a paint store for 5/- each and which he mixed with the sheenlac to make a paste and fills the gaps and apply on the entire surface. Then he used the plain sheenlac to get the shiny finish with multiple quotes. You get this chalk powder in all paint stores especially used for wood furniture.
Do you mean "Turquoise"? Greenish blue in color? Is your furniture and FH3 this color? If so, that's cool!!!

Edit: just re-read your post and you say that he mixed the "Torquise" powder with "sheenlac" to make a paste and he used it as a filler? Cannot be "turquoise" because the pic of your B1 faceplate looks anything but greenish blue :)
 
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Do you mean "Turquoise"? Greenish blue in color? Is your furniture and FH3 this color? If so, that's cool!!!

Thanks for correcting the spelling but the actual "Turquoise" color as you said is greenish blue but the one which my carpenter got was walnut colored chalk powder which I think was written as "Turquoise" or "Torquise" on the packet so I believe its locally made and does not exactly match to the actual color.
 
I'd already seen that and it does not help any. It's like saying "I used Nerolac".

I didn't know that you already seen it as your question was 'What is Sheenlac?'. I thought you might surf through the products and come across 'wood finishes' section.

Here in my place, I have seen people using Sheenlac polishes and thinners too often. I have used their polish and thinner too.
 
I didn't know that you already seen it as your question was 'What is Sheenlac?'. I thought you might surf through the products and come across 'wood finishes' section.

Here in my place, I have seen people using Sheenlac polishes and thinners too often. I have used their polish and thinner too.
Yes, I'd checked their wood finish products too and did not find anything that would lead me to conclude that anything in that range would be "it".
 
Hello,

While wiring up the Source Selector, I broke a LED's leg ?? meh!! As I'm currently at my hometown, I doubt I'll get a LED over here. Can anything be done??

Out of 5, I'm using only two sources , A TT and CDP.
Thanks ya'll in advance.
-Ankur
 
If you're going to stick to two sources only you can use a DPDT switch instead of an active source selector circuit. Of course you'll have to drill a hole on the front or rear panel to fix the switch. I personally prefer this and used it for B1 as well as DCB1.
 
I have a strange problem with the B1 preamp. The power supply and B1 boards and circuitry is from Om/Sachin. I have also used a reed relay based source selector bought from eBay. The volume control is a stepped dale resistor attenuator.

Everything seems to be working when it was made and tested, but wasn't used much. Now when I started using regularly I noticed that one channel (left) is sounding weak and feeble. Then sometimes after a minute or so starts working normally. I looked around for dry solders, weak joints, replaced connectors etc. but the problem persists. There is no other active circuitry in front or after the B1 preamp. Even line level signal has this problem.

What can be the cause. Straight away my suspicion is on electrolytic caps. But there are hardly any on B1. Could it be faulty JFETS?

Any suggestions and trouble shooting tips?

Regards
 
Capt. If there are two of us, then I have hopes of solving. Let's see if anyone else responds. Sachin /Om any inputs from your side?

Cheers
 
B1 grounds by one of the mounting leg on PCB itself. If you use metal spacers to mount B1 in metal cab. It will be automatically grounded.

Regards
Sachin
 
TO me it looks like something around on board power supply of B1. Please check if it has 18-24V from regulated PS. There is 10K? + 10K? voltage divider on B1 board with charges two big capacitors. Something related to charging of second 15000F cap from this divider. This divided voltage goes to jFET input terminal on both channel through 1M?.

Also if you are using inductors in 24V line of PS then please short them with wires.
 
You mean no inductors?
Yes, they are not required for Pass B1, but must for phono preamp side.
Later versions of shiny inductors are good but in first batch we put limited current 100? DCR inductors which created some charging effects.
 
Thanks Om. Will check and revert on the PS and the inductors.

Sachin, I checked my B1 board mounting. I have used Nylon bushes on both top and bottom of the PCB mounting pads, hence the board does not connect to the cabinet electrically through mounting studs.

It does not appear to be an earthing issue, as the reproduction cannot be feeble and distorted and after sometime becomes OK. There is some charging/time element or some voltage threshold issue that is at play.

Cheers
 
Another distant possibility if in case you'd use solid core internal wiring, then chances are there might be dry soldering somewhere. I have faced this issue often so now I've stopped using solid core.
 
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