Speaker Stands - What you should look for

HiFiVision

Super Moderator
Joined
Jul 23, 2006
Messages
685
Points
113
Location
Mumbai
Speaker Stands - What you should look for

Here is an interesting article on Speaker Stand that I am reproducing below:

As you all must be aware of there are loads of stands available in the market today. There are also loads of DIY options. This article helps you know your stands and some basics to lookout for when selecting.

Design
One of the most basic (& famous) DIY attempts to build a stand is the Flexi stand By TNT TNT-Stubby - A DIY Speaker Stand Project on TNT-Audio [English] .The basic construction is of a hollow pipe that is sandwiched by two plates held together by a central tie rod that extends from the top plate to the bottom and is then fastened with nuts. For the price (50$), no doubt its a good beginning ,but in no way is this tension/tie rod design the correct way to execute a stand.

First off, its inconvenient to assemble and disassemble especially when filled. Add to that the fact that all thats keeping the central column in place is "friction" between the top and bottom plates that sandwich it. In effect there can never be sufficient rigidity or coupling between the parts.

No commercial or pro stand maker uses this amateur approach. (At least I hope they dont).

One of the more popular approaches used by many budget stand makers is a system where the top and bottom plate bolts onto the central column. This is achieved by many ways .The cheap budget way is by welding a plate to the column or using a washer. This is used in most Chinese made stands that I never recommend.

Pro stand makers actually use castings or a TIG seamless welding where the column appears to be a SOLID steel pillar that is threaded at both ends. This requires some serious equipment.E.g Dynaudio Stands

Another approach is using Aluminum Extrusions for the columns wherein the extrusions themselves have the fixing holes. These just line up with the holes in the top and bottom plates. Its one of the cleanest approaches. However this requires considerable investments in extrusion dies etc. e.g. stands by B&W

Yet another approach is bracketing using connectors. Few stand makers use this since this is used to make lossy stands that are recommended to be used with speakers such are Harbeth and Spendor.e.g Harbeth and Spendor stands

Construction
Many commercial manufacturers (by commercial stand manufacturers ,Im referring to the various so called branded stands that are manufactured in the PRC by companies that are more often furniture builders than actual audio enthusiasts this includes even the famed stand&deliver brand and even some Atacama outsourced stuff) use 3mm thick steel plates for the top and base of the stand. This is basically nothing but cold rolled Sheet Metal. The column used is nothing but a pipe probably 18-16 gauge thickness (which, once again is incorrectly described as heavy gauge- whats heavy about 1.5mm?) These have to be filled to even be acceptable. A truly heavy gauge column is one that would be ring free even if unfilled. Here we are talking about 3.5-4mm.Base and top plates at least 6-8mm thick would be far better.

Another grouse I have is the use of cheap studs that are described has isolating carpet spikes. Well most often these are nothing but grub screws(bolts) or Allen screws whose heads have be pointed off.
See here: Atacama Audio Top Spikes for Speaker Stands - Top Spikes | CSN Stores.co.uk
Or: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?VISuperSize&item=390315690635
This can normally be confirmed by looking at the tech specs or user manual. Good spikes can be found by googling

Materials
This is quite a debated topic but most audiophiles agree about the ill effects of glass. Fortunately none of the pro stand makers use it. Many others who did use it have also discontinued its use. Glass is/was used only because of its low cost to machine into any shape. One could probably get a top and bottom plate for 3-4$ however its ill effects on acoustics (harsh sound signature) and its tendency to chip or break has discouraged many makers to stop using it. Most agree on the use of Metals, some use exotics like marble and some use combinations of wood and steel.

Mass & Weight
This is one of the most important aspects of a stand that is ignored by many manufacturers only to save on shipping costs. But this is what makes and breaks a stand. Always try and find out the nett weight of the stand. Under 6-7 kgs per stand and it will have stability issues. I am more comfortable with a stand that at least weighs twice or bit more than my speaker (unfilled). This provides for stability and prevents it from tipping over easily. Mass adds to weight and a feel of presence and authority in your music, light stands well, just sound hollow. The weight of the stand will also give you a hint about its construction and gauge (is it really heavy gauge construction? etc)

Features
Many stands offer different features. But these are exactly what they are-features. They are not as important as the aspects described above
Some offer spikes on the top plate and some offer affixing screws where bye you can bolt your speaker to the top plate(ofcourse the speaker must have a provision for this too)Spikes on the top plate work for some and dont in other cases. It all depends whether you are from the isolation or coupling school.

Some stands offer wire mgt.However this is a highly debated topic .Many Purists hate wire mgt. Infact they use ceramic or porcelain pucks and tweaks so that their speaker cables dont even touch the floor! Let alone allowing a cable that carries the audio signal to pass through another electrically conductive column. Even practically while switching cables; cleaning etc wire mgt becomes a headache. However Home theatre enthusiasts who are not so picky sacrifice all this for the neat clean look, hence stand makers design so as to satisfy both clubs.

Remember a good stand is something you dont upgrade and hence spending money on one is not a waste since its payback with regard to the improvement in SQ is phenomenal.

Here are some examples of stands that make it to my list

RWS-708

Dynaudio - Authentic Fidelity

K.Tajir
 
read a post today that assumes that only NON magnetic SS should be used for speaker stands because otherwise all other steel rusts and more importantly causes magnetic interference! and harms/damages the speaker!

wow what a novel concept
especially when SoundAnchors, Focal, the Partington super Dreadnoughts and almost ALL use regular steel (and make no mistake these guys are the pioneers of stand design)

hmm and maybe one should technically explain magnetic shielding and how it damages speakers or affects accoustics from over 3-4 inches away ( ahh ill do it later..)
maybe the above companies dont know of this

the truth is
grades of steel do not affect anything
in fact why dont you look at the insides of many speaker drivers
they use a cast iron baskets (cages) or a pressed mild steel cages ( well the expensive ones use aluminium but thats just for weight reasons)

now if the very cages that house the speaker are regular steel i dont know what more to say

By extension one should not have any steel other than" non magnetic" lying around anywhere near the speakers
say bye bye to your racks and even wrought iron furniture! etc

superb!
 
Last edited:
wow - both are awesome looking and are living room material.

I am searching for an stand sometime back due to my present speaker size is bit(more) larger than earlier and need less height stands. While searching i landed in this page that time and marked for my future purchase:cool:
 
What difference would I perceive sonically if I use a granite or plexi glass slab jutting out from the wall as a speaker stand vis-a-vis the floor standing design? Thanks!
 
What difference would I perceive sonically if I use a granite or plexi glass slab jutting out from the wall as a speaker stand vis-a-vis the floor standing design? Thanks!

Lots of interfering waves (since its close to wall) and reflections (due to granite or glass), ultimately reducing the clarity of the sound reproduction. The glass may even cause additional vibrations.
 
Speaker Stands - What you should look for

...

Target (not the US retailer) brand makes some very good speaker stands. Also many speaker manufacturers make excellent stands as well for the bookshelves. Worthwhile to look at their specs if anyone is into DIY.

The article also does not talk about the fillings - things from sand to straw to lead shots are being used.
 
i use a variety of sands- i find filling the columns 3/4th is sufficient for me

the following is white river sand


the other is "Circa" sand which is very similar to the "attabites" sold by atacama.

will take a pic and post later
 
i use a variety of sands- i find filling the columns 3/4th is sufficient for me

the following is white river sand


the other is "Circa" sand which is very similar to the "attabites" sold by atacama.

will take a pic and post later

Till such time the sand does not absorb moisture, it should be OK. Also not sure what you mean by 3/4 is OK. The heavier the stand the better it will be at minimising mid and high frequency resonances. Don't you see a difference in sound between 100% and 75% full volumes?
 
Noob question. In the beaches of East coast, you find sand with fine grain. Can this be washed to get rid of salt content and used instead of river sand?
 
Till such time the sand does not absorb moisture, it should be OK. Also not sure what you mean by 3/4 is OK. The heavier the stand the better it will be at minimising mid and high frequency resonances. Don't you see a difference in sound between 100% and 75% full volumes?

nope , personally i dont notice any difference
hence i leave it 3/4th full
helps me lower the CG and makes it less top heavy

Noob question. In the beaches of East coast, you find sand with fine grain. Can this be washed to get rid of salt content and used instead of river sand?

ofcourse you can use ANY sand- of course different audiophile shave different preferences
Atacama infact uses attabites that are NOT as fine as sand
they are more like granite chips.
 
hi,
Is lead shots the best option? What is the cost? I am bit skeptical about sand because of moisture.
 
magma - do u have any adjustable design?

Nope i dont have such a design... not because i cant make it - its just i dont belive in moving parts!- (in fact an ideal speaker stand INMO would be the WELDED kind- there are some enthusiasts who actaully have got some stands made like this. The stands are filled and then welded sealed permanently)

But i guess i can have a workaround where stands can be adjusted by a couple inches!


lead is a poison - does using lead shots require some extra precautions?

hmm other than the fact that lead is too expensive this ^^ is also one of the reasons i dont use it.Nt that lead in shots would be poisonous- just in powdered form it will become an issue

Sand is not hydrophilic. Hence, IMHO If it is dried sufficiently under the sun, moisture may not be an issue.

this is correct.
jaudere - make a note

otherwise just use Circa ( similar to attatbites )
 
noted !
What about using very small ball bearing balls? In fact in school days, We used to call them lead balls. I dont think they are made up of lead. Are easily available in bicycle shops .
Just exploring possibilities. Got ample time for thinking till i get my stands.
 
you get lead shots in the form of balls too
Youll need a whole load though - will get expensive

Steel balls like the ones used in bicycles are not only too large but will also turn out to be expensive if you use ONLY steel balls
Most guys used steel balls MIXED with sand etc

just used Circa if you dont wanna bother with SAND

rgds
ALi
 
Join WhatsApp group to get HiFiMART.com Offers & Deals delivered to your smartphone!
Back
Top