What stabilizer

sgd177

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Hello all,

I have a Panny PV8 plasma purchased recently. I want to know what stabilizer to go for.

I have a v-tech stabilizer for my refrigerator which is 450L (larger than avg frdige) When I went to the store, they mentioned that for a TV, I need a digital stabilizer, the one like for the fridge won't do. I'm not sure what that means.

I live in Pune where loadshedding is a part of life so I want to protect the TV against any daily power surges/variance. The v-tech for the fridge I have has a 5-min delayed startup (won't power the appliance for 5 mins until after the main power has come back up -- the assumption being the power supply will have stabilized by then) which is a feature i like.

I don't have any inverter/ups for the home - i'm renting.

Finally, recently I saw a APC UPS for rs2500 at Big Bazaar. Assuming the power specs match, is the UPS also a valid candidate in this area?
 
You will need a digital stabilizer. Check out Unistab. They have 1KVA and above, prices from around 2K. I got one for my PV8 and another for the LX80.
 
Any reason you went for Unistab and a not VGuard which is a better known brand?

VGuard: Products

I could only locate Unistab and Voltas on that day. Voltas had up to 3KVA but for ACs and not for TVs so that only left Unistab for me. If you can get V-Guard then great.
 
I could only locate Unistab and Voltas on that day. Voltas had up to 3KVA but for ACs and not for TVs so that only left Unistab for me. If you can get V-Guard then great.

Okay, I got a quote of 1.5k for Guardian and VGuard from JD Electronics. Still not decided.
 
V-guard is the best may be a little expensive viz-uni-stab but go for v-guard they a new model :VG-CRYSTAL it supports two gadgets unlike the old one which had only one socket:)
 
V-guard is the best may be a little expensive viz-uni-stab but go for v-guard they a new model :VG-CRYSTAL it supports two gadgets unlike the old one which had only one socket:)

Hmm. The Unistab comes with 3 sockets supporting 3 gadgets.
 
Just a wild thought, cant I connect a spike guard to the stabilizer so that it gives me more socket. As long as I connect devices within the limit of the Stabilizer this should work right?
 
If your equipment has a switched mode power supply, then check what voltage range it operates over. My power supplies for instance operate between 90V to 260V, and I quite a few electronic equipment use switched mode power supplies these days. It is mainly amplifiers that I can think of that still use a linear power supply. And those then need stabilizing.
when selecting a stabilizer, consider the total load of the equipment plugged into it, versus the load ability of the stabilizer. I tend to factor in a 50% overload margin in order to take into account any burst requirements on the load.

The best stabilizers I know of are UPS (uninterrupted power supplies) as used on computer network systems. They tend to have lighting protection as well, which can save you a lot of money of there is a thunder storm.
 
Just a wild thought, cant I connect a spike guard to the stabilizer so that it gives me more socket. As long as I connect devices within the limit of the Stabilizer this should work right?

that's what i thought as well. infact why do you even need spike guard.. even plain extension plug (that provides more sockets by plugging into one) should do, right? as long as it is within the capacity of the stabilizer.
 
that's what i thought as well. infact why do you even need spike guard.. even plain extension plug (that provides more sockets by plugging into one) should do, right? as long as it is within the capacity of the stabilizer.

I wont do that bcos Spike Guard ones have better wires which can take that load and also has a fuse for extra protection. Your extension cords come with very think flimsy wires and I wont trust my equipment with them.

ANother thing would be to get our electrician make one with good quality finolex wires and anchor switches which will provide peace of mind :)
 
i must confess that i haven't really ever been comfortable with terms like watts, amps, v-a, and the relationship between them. often when purchasing electronic equipment, i rely on the knowledge of the salesperson with regard to the power consumption aspects.

it doesn't help that some of the stabilizers in the market (for fridges esp) state capabilities in liters (e.g. med size fridge - 300l, large - 400l etc) i guess it is for people like me.

upon googling i found a decent article which clarifies some things for me (not everything). posting here in case someone else also finds it enlightening (no pun intended).

Re: US has Electricity at 110V/60Hz, India has it at 230V/50Hz. Why?
 
I wont do that bcos Spike Guard ones have better wires which can take that load and also has a fuse for extra protection. Your extension cords come with very think flimsy wires and I wont trust my equipment with them.

right but the extension cord will be plugged into the stabilizer so if the stabilizer is doing its job then there won't be an extra load on the extension and no need for a fuse as well. my $0.02
 
I purchased this Product yesterday. it is 3A capacity and comes with 3 year warranty. purchased it for rs2900.
the cord is not as long as i would like it to be but it is ok. the entire unit is a bit heavy.

i still don't understand what's the 'digital' part of this, but it costs more than the fridge stabilzer (also from v-guard).
 
Last edited:
Hi,
Just browsing through, came across this post.
I have a spare Argo Servo 1KVA stabilizer, which I have not been using for sometime now, since I bought a UPS.
I can sell this if anyone is interested. I live in Mumbai, so the person will have to come and pick it up.
 
Well, my Panasonic PV8 plasma will take a few days to reach home.
Was wondering if I will need a 15Amp. power terminal for it. And also a stabilizer? I don't have power cuts though.
 
Well, my Panasonic PV8 plasma will take a few days to reach home. Was wondering if I will need a 15Amp. power terminal for it. And also a stabilizer? I don't have power cuts though.

You don't need a 15 amp plug. A 5 amp plug is enough., Just get a good quality plug that fits tightly into the socket leaving no room for sparking.

TVs generally do not need a stabiliser unless you have huge variation in voltages on a continuous basis. A better option is a spike buster and a RFI/EMI filter. That will enable the R=TV to give you clean images. I have been using my Akai LCD without a stabiliser for the last one year. I just replaced the stock plug with an MK plug as all my sockets are MK.

Cheers
 
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