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Full Range Standmount using Boston HQ48414P driver

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greenhorn

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Pair it with a warm amp. I'm using mine with an nad 3020 with a tube buffer. Makes shitty digital sources sound wonderful.
Would you believe that i didn't find mine bright enough and ended up adding a pair of Peerless tweeters!
 
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arunkvivek

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Reading this thread gave me a DIY itch. Reading through a couple of comments which mentioned that FAST set ups sound really well, I ended up buying the HQ4814P drivers and Dainty Subwoofers SUB200SPP (200W/8 ohms) from SP Road (two each). At that point of time, I did not know that Dainty's subwoofers were not published. Google baba helped out with a thread in DIYaudio which had Dainty's parameters. Unfortunately, this model was not listed. 250W model of Dainty was just 86db in sensitivity. So, I am assuming a gross mismatch in sensitivity between full ranger and SW. This is just start of the challenges. I would like to let everyone know that I am an average Joe working as an accountant, with little knowledge about slopes, curves and attenuations that you guys discuss. Nevertheless, I do not want to drop this project.

Here is my Exit route: Put the subwoofer drivers on sale and finish up with the ported box that has been done in this thread. I would be trying this only if it is impossible to go through the FAST route (albeit with compromises on sub-woofer section).

Goal: To have a two way speaker system which sounds reasonably okay considering the blunders due to my ignorance (first of the many to come). Do not have any aims for sonic bliss.

Structural vision: To build a FS, and have full ranger and subwoofer in a single cabinet in isolated compartments. If possible to have subwoofer downfiring.

Design: To have a passive cross-over built to split less than 120Hz (just a random number) to SW and anything higher to FR.I want to add a SW amplifier to feed the LF from passive cross over to the SW.(Would the impedence mismatch between speaker-in feed and tolerance level of amp be a deterrent?)

It is sacrilege to mention (inviting big time troll here considering my credentials). But, I want to do something similar to what is there in Rethm Bhaava where there is an active sub-woofer system.

I would like to do all of these with ready made parts from DIYAudiocart, EightAudio or Audiocrafts.

Do you think that this project would fly? I am ready for challenges. Exit route is also quite easy. However, I do not want to settle for the easier route unless you guys tell me that I am likely to get electrecuted:lol:

Thoughts, Suggestions, Feedback??
 

greenhorn

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easiest way (but not entirely FAST) would be to buy a decent 2.1 speaker setup (F&D A 510?) and swap out the satellites with the hiq drivers in some boxes

alternately, given the drivers that you have, you can still make something, but you will need some hefty amps (100W+ for the dainty subs)
1. active crossover : Choose from https://diyaudiocart.com/kits/Crossover-Networks/Active-Crossovers
2. amplifiers - something low power (TPA3116) for the hiq and something very powerful for the subs (the sub amps you may need to source locally, as there isnt anything that great available online in indian sites. ebay.com options are there though)
 

arunkvivek

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Thanks for taking time to reply!
easiest way (but not entirely FAST) would be to buy a decent 2.1 speaker setup (F&D A 510?) and swap out the satellites with the hiq drivers in some boxes

Thanks for the suggestion! I already have mercury 5.1 setup sitting idle. If I am not able to come up with anything good, i shall be building box for HiQ and use the tiny subwoofer.

Please pardon my ignorance. Why should it be active crossover and not passive crossover? Can active crossover be applied to speaker level inputs?

2. amplifiers - something low power (TPA3116) for the hiq and something very powerful for the subs (the sub amps you may need to source locally, as there isnt anything that great available online in indian sites. ebay.com options are there though)
Are you suggesting a completely active system here? Can't I let HiQ be passive and SW be active?
 
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greenhorn

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I already have mercury 5.1 setup sitting idle
how big is the mercury woofer & how much power is it rated ?
Why should it be active crossover and not passive crossover?
full active because of the massive difference in speaker sensitivity. a 86dB sensitive speaker will need about 5X the power to sound as loud as a 93dB one.

Also, if you plan on filtering passively at ~120 hz, you will need huge $$$$ inductors

Can active crossover be applied to speaker level inputs?
yes but its too complicated

Are you suggesting a completely active system here?
if you make the system full active, you reduce a lot of load off the amp running the hiq and use a low power high quality (TPA 3116/Class A/Tube etc) amp depending on your budget. if you want to run the hiq in passive, you still need an amp, and the bass you send it will create IMD (interfere with the mids)
 

greenhorn

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which is why I am saying,
if you want quick and cheap, buy a decent 2.1 and swap the sats with the HiQ ( I am using them with a logitech Z2300 right now) i this approach, all the design & implementation is already done,

if you want something better, then prepare to invest some time and effort designing crossovers, enclosures etc , not sure you have the required skills
 

arunkvivek

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which is why I am saying,
if you want quick and cheap, buy a decent 2.1 and swap the sats with the HiQ ( I am using them with a logitech Z2300 right now) i this approach, all the design & implementation is already done,

if you want something better, then prepare to invest some time and effort designing crossovers, enclosures etc , not sure you have the required skills
I love your practical and pragmatic approach. I am ready to take time and think through all the parts of design. I have all the time to decide about the project. Until I am fully convinced that it would not blow up the drivers and my two-in-one (which is going to be the amp for testing), I would not start the process. If conceptually my approach is flawed, I would definitely be taking the simpler route. As mentioned earlier, I am not intending a sonic nirvana. I would settle for anything lesser as long as it sounds better than my two-in-one national panasonic.

I want to understand if the passive crossover for SW is possible or not. And if yes, would I be able to amplify it with SW amplifier kit like this and get the SW working. Thoughts?
 

greenhorn

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I want to understand if the passive crossover for SW is possible or not. And if yes, would I be able to amplify it with SW amplifier kit like this and get the SW working. Thoughts?
I am not sure you understand active and passive crossovers. at least the above line kinda contradicts itself. do you mind explaining active and passive crossovers as you understand them?
 
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arunkvivek

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I am not sure you understand active and passive crossovers. at least the above line kinda contradicts itself. do you mind explaining active and passive crossovers as you understand them?
I hope I am not testing your patience too much. It does sound contradicting for me too. I hope that I pass this test:
Active Crossovers - put in place at line level input - before the signals are amplified. They need to have power source to provide the service.

Passive crossovers - put in place on speaker level inputs (post amplification). They do not need a separate power source by themselves.

If you read this page, there is a mention that "since we take our bass amp signal from the speaker terminals, not a line level input." and this signal is pushed into the Active bass system. I want to do the same as well. The mismatch in driver sensitivity is definitely a show stopper (and I would have to find a solution for it) but the question that I would come back to is: "How to get the SW signal split from speaker level feed and push into the active bass system?"
 

greenhorn

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I hope I am not testing your patience too much. It does sound contradicting for me too. I hope that I pass this test:
Active Crossovers - put in place at line level input - before the signals are amplified. They need to have power source to provide the service.

Passive crossovers - put in place on speaker level inputs (post amplification). They do not need a separate power source by themselves.
You are correct
If you read this page, there is a mention that "since we take our bass amp signal from the speaker terminals, not a line level input." and this signal is pushed into the Active bass system. I want to do the same as well. The mismatch in driver sensitivity is definitely a show stopper (and I would have to find a solution for it) but the question that I would come back to is: "How to get the SW signal split from speaker level feed and push into the active bass system?"
The bhaava is bit of a hybrid. the full rangers are active, and the bass section is active ( note that they say the same thing). This is a bit of a hack/workaround for when you cant do active bi amping. a typical bhaava setup would have the main amp amplifying the full frequency signal to speaker level. this speaker level signal is filtered (i am assuming - the hiq frequency response is enough to approximate a gentle HPF). the signal is also taken, stepped down back to line level, then LPF'ed and fed to the internal bass module which drives the internal speakers.

If you are designing the full system yourself, its easier to build an active XO that splits your signal into 2 stereo sets - HPF & LPF output, and send it to the respective amplifiers with the gains adjusted to ensure a flat frequency response - this is a much better approach as
1 the amp driving the full ranger is not stressed as much as most of the bass has been removed already
2 the amp driving the sub gets a high quality line level input, not one that has passed through a power and then stepped down back to line level and then filtered
 

auriga2001

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Hi,
Can someone provide the baffle cut out diameter for the "Boston Acoustics - HQ48414P - 8" Hi-Q Fullrange Driver - 8 Ohms" ?
Thanks
 

SanjeevM

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I am soooo happy to read this thread!!

My old time favourite speakers are still alive and kicking. And being appreciated!!

I had made my first amplifier and used these HiQ speakers way back in 1977, when I was in 1st year B Tech. The cabinet was a 24x12x12 cuboid, lined on the inside with an old blanket, non-ported. I had mounted a small tweeter which made up for the lack of highs.

This sound from these speakers was just too good, and I miss the warmth of the vocals sung by Jagjit & Ghulam Ali. The bass was lacking but my amp too did not have much of it!!

My first amp was a double-triode + EL84, after that came TBA810 then TDA2020, the power and sound improving with each change.

Finally I connected the Yamaha HT to it. They ran fine from 1977 to 2009, till my nephew raised the volume too much !!

I have Paradigms now, but I do miss the vocals of the HiQ.

Best of luck guys, and happy listening to your HiQ s.

Sent from my ASUS_Z00AD using Tapatalk
 
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