Garrard 301 takes off

Hi guys,

I know Rajiv has a skeletal plinth, was wondering how you level it? How do others who have the box plinth level theirs? Some sort of screwed feet?

I've got three feet with screws that fit into a sort of holder. The holder has sharp points that get hammered into the underside of the plinth or a block of wood holding the squash balls and the feet with the screws can then be adjusted.

Aiming to get some plywood blocks done for squash balls this weekend. Will be interesting to see what that adds to the sound, along with siting the turntable on a proper table instead of the floor.

Regards
 
Hi,

If the box plinth has been correctly fabricated, the platter, once installed, should be perfectly parallel to the bottom plate of the box. You then need to make sure your supporting surface is also flat by using a good spirit level. If the feet you then install beneath the box are similarly sized, then you're all set to go.

Still, you do need to confirm that the platter is uniformly flat once again after all of the above have been completed. Also check azimuth of the headshell. There's no gainsaying the criticality of a perfectly flat playing surface.

regards,
 
Stevieboy,

I managed to get the cudappa slate cut to the original plinth size. I have get some one to drill holes. The guys who cut the slate did not have drilling machine nor drill bit for that work. I am anxiously waiting to finish the project.
kuruvilajacob
 
Ah, G401fan, then feet will be necessary given I will not be able to ensure so many surfaces being level.

Kuruvilajacob, will be interesting to hear how it sounds! I wonder how the tonearm bedplate screws will fit in stone. Will they screw in tight? Or will one have to put those wooden pluggy thingies one does for screws in walls... hmmmm

regards
 
Stevieboy,
Still struggling with the cudappa plinth. Not easy to get it fixed as planned. Tonearm bed plates may have to be glued . My concern is whether the original springs will be able to hold the weight of the stone or should I go for heavier sprigs
kuruvilajacob
 
Kuruvilajacob,

The bedplate screws are an issue even in wood. Nuts and bolt fixing might be better. An ebay seller I know was exploring the bolt option I can let you know if he finds the right type. That's one reason I'm not getting the stone plinth yet.

What you could also do is make a slightly bigger hole in the stone and insert the wood plugs normally used for attaching screws to a wall. The bedplate screws will then take hold in this.

Regards

Edit: reread your post and it seems you're using springs under the stone. In which case simply switch to stone footers or some other material that will support the weight or cones perhaps...

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Stevie, wouldn't woodplugs have tonearm aligning problem if drill holes are not pricise. Also am just little bit worried to put too much pressure while tightening screws in wood plugs in stone plinths.
Stevie & kuruvilajacob
Copy pasting a pic link of something like this which will help
screw.jpg

They are easily available in various lengths as they are used in Pic albums and agreement collating. You can glue the bottom part to plinth. Also see if you can put in thin rubber washer.
Regards
 
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Stevieboy and Hiten,

I managed to fix the cudappah plinth today. I used Fevicol SR rubber paste to fix the bed plates and used the original springs successfully. I just tested the use of the player with the new plinth. It sounded awesome ! I will be able to give you a proper report after a few days as I am changing the cartridge to Goldring 1006 from Shure 97 XE. Also I will have to do a complete realignment. I only hope the original springs will hold the extra weight. I have given an additional washer and check nut to give the plinth extra support.
kuruvilajacob
 
Stevieboy,

I fixed the goldring 1006 on the SME shell and initially I noticed the stylus was skating over the first one or two groves. would you know why that is so? I removed the anti skate weight, but it still continues. Anyway, I tested the set up using HI FI News Test record and all other parameters all ok. I felt the deep bass to be lower than the original plinth. I cannot be certain since I am using a new cartridge. Otherwise, the sound stage and overall sound appears to be more neutral than earlier. I suppose I will have to get used to it. Also the cartridge will need to break-in.
kuruvilajacob
 
Hiten,

That seems like a good idea. I'm assuming one would get those screws in a stationary shop? As far as screws in wood plugs goes I'm thinking as long as the bedplate is flat it should not cause issues...

Kuruvilajacob,

Not too sure why the arm skates over the first two grooves. More antiskating being applied? Less downforce? The table is level and not angled away from the point the stylus touches the outer groove? Can't think of any other thing to check for...

Regards




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Stevie regular hardware stores may have them. If they dont have it request some photostudio guys to procure them.
regards
 
Stevie, I think one of the issue was that I was using the Shure SFG -2 Stylusforce gauge. A friend of mine first set the lateral balancing manually by adjusting the two piece counter weight at the back and then using the stylus gauge. There was also slight play on the SME shell. After correcting these, the skating is perfect. The over hang as well as effective length are correct. I am not sure if I need to readjust
vta and SRA . It is not easy on SME 3012 as the allen bolts are not user friendly to adjust the height.
kuruvilajacob
 
Stevieboy,

I fixed the goldring 1006 on the SME shell and initially I noticed the stylus was skating over the first one or two groves. would you know why that is so? I removed the anti skate weight, but it still continues.
Kuruvillajacob,
see if the turntable is level. Even a very minor tilt on backside can cause this.
Regards
 
Yup Kuruvilajacob,

Those allen nuts are tough to manage, luckily I had the Project which has a similar system so kind of used to it now. Just hold the tonearm from the top in your left hand while loosening the allen bolt with your right and lower the tonearm with your left hand letting the tonearm slide down very slowly or raise it slowly. A marking on the pillar helps to establish a reference point, even two three marking if you want.

regards
 
Stevie,
I am planning to get a Denon DL-103 cartridge for my 301. There appears to be number of models including 103 R. Which would you suggest?
kuruvilajacob
 
Hi Kuruvilajacob,

Personally I'm going with the standard 103 and after some use would send it to zu audio for their mod. The r is supposed to be more detailed though whether it moves away from the appeal of the original I do not know. The pro is supposed to have everything the standard does not have in terms of detail I guess though I haven't read much bout the pro vs a zu 103. My bet would be with the zu.

Regards


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Dear Stieve,
Thanks for the useful information. What would be the price of a 103. I think it is sub $200 according to a friend of mine. What mod will zu audio do to make it sound better?
regds
kuruvilajacob
 
Hi Kuruvilajacob,

Yes I think it's sub or around $200 on ebay from authorized dealers. The zu guys denude the cart put it in an aluminium shell with special epoxy. The cart then weighs more. With the mod the bottom and top end clear up and it sounds more extended without losing the essential musical character of the original. There was a review dine by fremer I think in stereophile. There are also wooden bodies you can get and denude and fix the cart yourself.

Regards


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