How do you care for the spikes?

[sachinchavan 15865]

I mean the spikes (bolts) on the speaker (BS) stands. I’ve noticed that with time they tend to get stuck as one doesn’t have to turn them every now and then. What do you do to keep them operational? Grease them? But wom’t make them slippery? We’d not want them to loosen with impact of the music. So how do you keep them smooth, yet tight? What worked for you?

 

[Nikhil]

Here in Hyderabad, I have used a few spikes made of SS but have never had them get stuck.
I would imagine the humidity in Mumbai would perhaps cause some oxidation etc.
But even so, I don't think it would be anything a little grease or WD40 would not be able to handle.

They are also an excellent way to level or tilt the speakers up as some speakers are meant to point upwards.
Spikes tend to thin out the sound IMO - I tried steel and wood buttons to tame that a little.
I now use studs in place of spikes which to me gives more solidity to the sound.


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[sachinchavan 15865]

I tried steel and wood buttons to tame that a little.
I now use studs in place of spikes which to me gives more solidity to the sound.

Thanks Nikhil. Can you share any pics of either solution?

I don't think it would be anything a little grease or WD40 would not be able to handle.

I’ve used WD40 in the past. The nasty smell is avoidable in the living room though. Haven’t tried greasing, might give it a try.

 

[drlowmu]

Be aware, when you use spikes, the omnidirectional bass waves roll into the void between the floor and the bottom of the speaker enclosure. Depending upon the speaker's design ( if there was a bass reflex port near the bottom of the enclosure ) this will create a host of unwanted and to-be-avoided problems. ( out-of-time reflections off walls, etc. )

The solution, with such speakers, is to be sure the void does not exist, AND, very very important, that the reflex port's wave path to the floor is 100% FLUSH with the front of the cabinet.

On a good system 1/32nd of an inch in flushness asymmetry, is highly audible . I have just discovered this, on my ALTEC A7/825 enclosures, over the last three months. The amount of bass waves coming out of a reflex port, its wave path, and a speaker's loading to the floor, is misunderstood and can be critical ....... in speaker designs.

Jeff

 

[sachinchavan 15865]

Be aware, when you use spikes, the omnidirectional bass waves roll into the void between the floor and the bottom of the speaker enclosure. Depending upon the speaker's design ( if there was a bass reflex port near the bottom of the enclosure ) this will create a host of unwanted and to-be-avoided problems. ( out-of-time reflections off walls, etc. )

The solution, with such speakers, is to be sure the void does not exist, AND, very very important, that the reflex port's wave path to the floor is 100% FLUSH with the front of the cabinet.

On a good system 1/32nd of an inch in flushness asymmetry, is highly audible . I have just discovered this, on my ALTEC A7/825 enclosures, over the last three months. The amount of bass waves coming out of a reflex port, its wave path, and a speaker's loading to the floor, is misunderstood and can be critical ....... in speaker designs.

Jeff

Thanks Jeff for that detailed warning. Since my speakers are standmounts, the reflex port is much (around two feet plus) above the floor. So hopefully don’t face the specific problem.

But I agree from experience that even small asymmetry (fraction of mm) makes audible impact on the sound. In my case it’s perhaps due to a tight corner in which one of the speakers has to sit. It’s one of the frustrating aspects of a home stereo system.

What do you suggest instead of spikes?

 

[arj]

Thanks Jeff for that detailed warning. Since my speakers are standmounts, the reflex port is much (around two feet plus) above the floor. So hopefully don’t face the specific problem.

But I agree from experience that even small asymmetry (fraction of mm) makes audible impact on the sound. In my case it’s perhaps due to a tight corner in which one of the speakers has to sit. It’s one of the frustrating aspects of a home stereo system.

What do you suggest instead of spikes?

Hi Sachin, coupling of speaker to stand is very critical and its intrinsic to how the speaker is designed ( I belive the damping factor). better to go by the recommendation of the speaker manufacturer. Some like Merlins are better via a small blob of blue tack, some are just placed and other spiked.

On the Spike thread itself grease is what I use to ensure it does not get jammed

 

[sachinchavan 15865]

better to go by the recommendation of the speaker manufacturer.

That’s what I’ve followed religiously al this while. Been using the stand the manufacturer made for this specific speaker. I assume they’ve done the thinking to come up with the right design.

On the Spike thread itself grease is what I use to ensure it does not get jammed

I shall give that a try now. Yes, it’s jamming, not rusting. My concern about grease was whether it might lead to the bolt loosening due to low friction. But worth trying, can always get the grease out if it doesn’t work. Any kind/brand of grease you use/suggest?

 

[chander]

A product from the automobile world, if you wouldn't mind it's non-audiophile properties is graphite aerosol lube.
It completely dries to touch in less than a minute and leaves no smell & above all "IF APPLIED Carefully" doesn't make a mess either. You can spray it on anything and it makes a black layer on top. You can always wash it off - completely which is a bonus in my books.

We use them for bolts on motorcycle bodies & non moving parts, where the only requirement is the the bolt should come out easily when required & ZERO gunk. It also provides pretty decent protection against rust too. I use it on all locks as well & If I want to make a bolt black

 

[arj]

That’s what I’ve followed religiously al this while. Been using the stand the manufacturer made for this specific speaker. I assume they’ve done the thinking to come up with the right design.


I shall give that a try now. Yes, it’s jamming, not rusting. My concern about grease was whether it might lead to the bolt loosening due to low friction. But worth trying, can always get the grease out if it doesn’t work. Any kind/brand of grease you use/suggest?

Any Chain grease should be ok ! maybe Pidilite.

 

[jls001]

White petroleum jelly (the type one applies to the lip). Apply a thin film. Prevents rust, too.

 

[General_sound]

Re' spikes I had a very interesting problem. Due to space constraints the audio rack is in a corner and the two speakers are at a distance of less than 18"(45cm) from the turntable, and in line. Initially the rack and speakers were spiked, and I found that there was feedback ( howling) from the speakers when tt was playing. Removing the spikes and placing rubber pads solved the problem and as Nikhil said, the sound did become more 'solid', as I perceived. However, the uppermids and treble may be lesser.

 

[drlowmu]

Thanks Jeff for that detailed warning. Since my speakers are standmounts, the reflex port is much (around two feet plus) above the floor. So hopefully don’t face the specific problem.

But I agree from experience that even small asymmetry (fraction of mm) makes audible impact on the sound. In my case it’s perhaps due to a tight corner in which one of the speakers has to sit. It’s one of the frustrating aspects of a home stereo system.

What do you suggest instead of spikes?

Gee, I have no suggestions for that kind of bookshelf speaker configuration. Design something wonderful for it !!

My recent experience was with a speaker that had a 30 inch by 24 inch footprint, and was 4 .75 inches off the floor. Loaded with a 16 inch driver at 104.5 dB efficiency and a large 210 inch bass reflex port between the driver and the bottom of the enclosure.

Adjusting the enclosure to a NO-VOID and FLUSH to a new floor- base I'd fabricated, ( so the reflex port energy was ideally preserved, and so the 16 inch cone was ideally-loaded ), proved to be ultra-critical .

I am amazed at the sensitivity. In December 2022 I learned a large - valuable set-up lesson, with said speaker-to-floor interfacing. ( an Altec Voice of the Theatre, 825 braced enclosure with both a 515B and a 515G-8HP driver ).

To varying degrees, this should apply to all speakers. You have gotten some good suggestions in this thread, from others.

Jeff

 

[sachinchavan 15865]

However, the uppermids and treble may be lesser.

I’ve experienced the same when I experimented with removing the spikes, but I hadn’t placed any pads below then, the plate just rested on the floor. I’ve also tried with spike cups under the spikes. But the best sound is always obtained with the intact stand designed by the speaker manufacturer (Castle) as it is.

White petroleum jelly (the type one applies to the lip). Apply a thin film. Prevents rust, too.

Thanks. I’d try this first. I’ve tried coconut oil in the past, but was messy and slippery. Jelly being viscous could be better.

Any Chain grease should be ok ! maybe Pidilite.

They do have a lube spray. Wonder if it might make the spikes too slick - don’t want them to loosen in place.

A product from the automobile world, if you wouldn't mind it's non-audiophile properties is graphite aerosol lube.
It completely dries to touch in less than a minute and leaves no smell & above all "IF APPLIED Carefully" doesn't make a mess either. You can spray it on anything and it makes a black layer on top. You can always wash it off - completely which is a bonus in my books.

Never been a biker. This sounds interesting, and daring (black). Shall try if the petroleum jelly doesn’t work out.

Thanks all for the suggestions!

 

[arj]

They do have a lube spray. Wonder if it might make the spikes too slick - don’t want them to loosen in place.

It will not, the weight of the speaker will ensure that. jsut make sure that the speaker is levelled and all spikes are equally (approx) loaded. Coconut oil is too thin and you need something more viscous. Bike chain lubes are the best..i used the one I use on my cycle chain

Petroleum jelly is also a great option.

 

[chander]

Hey @arj - won't the chain lube absorb all the dirt/dust that comes in contact with it? When the day comes to clean em up - how do you care for the bolt socket/nut in the speaker - do they ever get squeaky clean again?

 

[amit11]

I mean the spikes (bolts) on the speaker (BS) stands. I’ve noticed that with time they tend to get stuck as one doesn’t have to turn them every now and then. What do you do to keep them operational? Grease them? But wom’t make them slippery? We’d not want them to loosen with impact of the music. So how do you keep them smooth, yet tight? What worked for you?

In my case i removed the original spikes.
And replaced them with white colored hard plastic bottoms, which is available at hardware shop, which is normally kept at bottom of legs of table for example, or some kind of furniture. I know many may disapprove of this, but that's ok...

 

[arj]

Hey @arj - won't the chain lube absorb all the dirt/dust that comes in contact with it? When the day comes to clean em up - how do you care for the bolt socket/nut in the speaker - do they ever get squeaky clean again?

not really, you need very little and its inside the threaded socket. Never had an issue so far. last i removed was to put another spike in and did not really have any issue.
Very unlike a cycle chain

 

[Naturelover]

I have SS bolts fitted in threaded holes through bottom MS plate in DIY stands.
Never had an issue.

 

[elaramvani]

Honestly IMO simple Rust Smash spray, which is often used in auto garage will serve the purpose. Its Odourless, Non-toxic spread as thin film over matting threads. I am using in my Oberon 9 towers with 6mm threaded spikes.

 

[Nikhil]

Thanks Nikhil. Can you share any pics of either solution?

Took me a while to find pictures of what I used some years ago.





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