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New Audio-Technica AT-LP120 does not work !!!

KnightNZ

New Member
Joined
May 15, 2014
Messages
3
Points
3
Location
New Zealand
Same problem here, pretty angry with myself! If someone could email me the circuit diagram, I'd be very appreciative!

steve at steve dot net dot nz

Failing that, anyone know the component number of the problem microfuse (printed beside it on the PCB) and which of the boards it's on? Hope it's not on the top of the central board as that doesn't look like much fun to remove.

I'm taking photos as I'm doing this so can provide a guide given that this looks to be a not entirely uncommon people for those such as myself who were too impatient to follow the instructions properly during the initial setup.


Thanks guys.

Steve.
 
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KnightNZ

New Member
Joined
May 15, 2014
Messages
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Location
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Nevermind, the fuse is on the top side of the central PCB which has the motor on it. The surface-mount fuse itself is behind where the 2-wire blue power connector from the transformer connects to the board. It's 1.5A rated. If you're brave you can just solder a jumper in instead, or use a solder-bridge.

Not particularly difficult to desolder & remove, the hardest part is getting the board off to work on as there's a fair few screws & cables to come off it. Really best to replace it properly however, although surface-mount components tend to be hard to come by in anything less than packs of 10 or so.

Pleased that a few cents of parts and a couple of hours of time was all that was needed to fix it rather than lots of money for a service agent!

HOWTO:

Before starting - remove; The cartridge. The platter. The balance weight. The SP adapter. The hinges from the lid.

Ensure the voltage selector is set correctly (230V and not 115V), that the power switch is turned OFF and that the power cable is definitely not plugged in.

Take the lid off & lay it on a table top-down and rest the main unit on the lid.

Remove the screws from the back, there are 8 screws total, each screw has a small brass spacer on the bottom of it which will almost certainly fall into the case when you remove the back, be VERY sure you retrieve them all!

Once the screws are removed, put the unit onto its feet and life the top off from the front as the USB & phono\line switch protrude through the case. You will also need to feed the RCA cables up through the hole as you lift it off.

Put the back\base aside, and rest the unit back onto the lid.

The main fuse is easily visible on a small circuit board by the main transformer. Mine had a rubber sleeve over it which lifts off, then you can remove the fuse by either hooking a fingernail under it, or gently prying it out from the sides with a small screwdriver. Don't lever against the glass part of the fuse!

If it is blown, you will probably be able to easily see a break in the wire inside it and/or burn marks inside the glass. You can also check with a multimeter that there is no continuity (infinite resistance) between the 2 metal caps.

Replace the fuse with another 240V or 250V 500mA slow-blow fuse. If you replace it with a fast-blow fuse then it'll probably blow every time you have a small power spike. Refit the rubber protective sleeve.

Put the turntable back onto the base, being careful with the RCA cables and feeding in the USB & phono/line switch, plug it in and power it on. If you get lights then you're in business. Put the platter onto the spindle and press "Start". If it spins then you are lucky and you have ONLY blown the primary fuse and can now reassemble the turntable!

Take the platter back off or it'll fall off during assembly.

The only parts to pay attention to while reassembling is that you may have to have the unit on its side while putting the base screws back in due to the little brass sleeves on them trying to fall off, tweezers can make this a little easier.

If the motor isn't working at this stage, then you've probably blown the secondary fuse on the central circuit board. Any wires that can be unplugged from it will need to be, you need to undo all the screws on the metal plate underneath where the platter sits - NOTE: Support the central board while doing this as it's fairly heavy and will fall off and may damage things further otherwise.

Once you have the board off, look on the spindle-side of it opposite where the 2 wire connector goes in and you should clearly see a labelled fuse, if you check it with a multimeter or continuity tester, you should get no signal which means the fuse has popped and will need to be replaced or bypassed. Do this as you wish then reassemble being careful to re-route the cables correctly.

All in all, not a particularly difficult job, just time consuming, and of course, given that you are dealing with mains voltage, if you're not confident with this, take it to either a proper AT repair agent or anyone certified to fix electronic audio devices.

Enjoy!
 
Last edited:

flazer

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Joined
Sep 3, 2014
Messages
1
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Location
Houston TX
Gents - I really appreciate this post.

I picked one up for my daughter and the receipt is dated 8/31/2013.
And of course, she tells me on 8/31/2014 that the platter no longer spins :(

So yup, out of warranty and in the same boat.

No issues here with a soldering iron - would appreciate that schematic jimmy_tulip !! :)
 

aayushk

New Member
Joined
Dec 11, 2014
Messages
1
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Location
Mumabi, India
Got myself an New Audio-Technica AT-LP120 . Got it real cheap, since my friend got it from US for me (210 USD @ Amazon)

Now here is where the problem starts, Forgot to change the switch to from 110 V to 230 V ..!!! and plugged the turntable.

Opened the back and saw that the fuse was burnt .......The rating on the fuse was 250 V 500mA. Went to a local shop and for fuse...(250 V 600mA)

Now there is a different problem,
1. The Power light is ON (Working Fine)
2. The Placement light is ON (Working Fine)
3. All other lights work (The Pitch, Direction,Speed Selector )
4. However the Motor does not RUN .


Is there a quick fix for this. Can someone help me repair this in Bangalore ?
I am not too familiar with electronic gadgets

Hi Jimmy,

I did something similar, and started my ATLP120 without changing the voltage from 115 to 230. My power transformer blew up :(. Can you please tell me what you did?
 

jimmy_tulip

Member
Joined
May 14, 2008
Messages
75
Points
8
Location
Bangalore
Sorry guys, Had not visited this thread in a long time. Please drop a PM to me with your email Id. I will try and send the diagrams by end of this week.
 

jimmy_tulip

Member
Joined
May 14, 2008
Messages
75
Points
8
Location
Bangalore
Forwarded the circuit diagrams to quad****** & ***prateek******.
I see two more requests from FM flazer & aayushk. However I did not get email ID's for you guys.

PM me your Email Id's, I should be able to send it .
 

sippakornp

New Member
Joined
Jan 3, 2015
Messages
1
Points
0
Location
bangkok thailand
Hi,

I'm Mickey from Thailand. I think I might have experienced the same problem recently with my AT-LP60. I got it as a gift for my father. Can anyone give me some pointers on how I can get it fixed?

Thank you
 

MikeMcf

New Member
Joined
Oct 24, 2015
Messages
1
Points
0
Location
Durban
PLEASE HELP!

I know this is an old post, but I desperately need some guidance.
I have done exactly the same thing, i.e. plugging in the turntable and turned it on without switching to 230v first. So I assume I've blown the fuse.
I have unscrewed the TT plate and when I lift it up, I cannot see any fuse. I know what a glass fuse looks like, but I can't see one.
Can someone please be more specific about where the fuse can be found.

Thanks
 

pappu

New Member
Joined
Sep 14, 2015
Messages
25
Points
3
Location
India Kolkata
Got myself an New Audio-Technica AT-LP120 . Got it real cheap, since my friend got it from US for me (210 USD @ Amazon)

Now here is where the problem starts, Forgot to change the switch to from 110 V to 230 V ..!!! and plugged the turntable.

Opened the back and saw that the fuse was burnt .......The rating on the fuse was 250 V 500mA. Went to a local shop and for fuse...(250 V 600mA)

Now there is a different problem,
1. The Power light is ON (Working Fine)
2. The Placement light is ON (Working Fine)
3. All other lights work (The Pitch, Direction,Speed Selector )
4. However the Motor does not RUN .


Is there a quick fix for this. Can someone help me repair this in Bangalore ?
I am not too familiar with electronic gadgets




I don't think that the new fuse is improper, the problem is not in the fuse, need to know that what type of motor it has. DC or AC. In DC Motors there is a circuit that supplies proper voltage and current to the motor. In case of AC it runs by the mains AC voltage You don't need to change the fuse it is ok. need to check the motor.
 
Last edited:

PGY

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Jun 15, 2014
Messages
210
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0
Location
Hyderabad
Hi Jimmy,

I was also in the same plan to get an Audio Technica AT-LP120 from USA. Could you please share your experience.

FM's Could you please suggest me is it Value for money or can i go with some used players.

Thanks
 
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navinsinha

Active Member
Joined
Aug 15, 2013
Messages
463
Points
43
Location
Mumbai
Hi Jimmy,

I was also in the same plan to get an Audio Technica AT-LP120 from USA. Could you please share your experience.

FM's Could you please suggest me is it Value for money or can i go with some used players.

Thanks
Used vintage players are any day better than these toys, if you compare dollar to dollar VFM.......my views.
 

navinsinha

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Aug 15, 2013
Messages
463
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Location
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Between Rs. 25,000 to 35,000 you can get an excellent condition Thorens TD 160, a superb TT........
 

juanbelvi

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Joined
Apr 11, 2016
Messages
1
Points
0
Location
Colombia
Hi jimmy, Unfortunately i have the same problem, can you send me the circuit diagram so I can fix my TT? thank you
 

bhaskard

New Member
Joined
Dec 25, 2016
Messages
1
Points
0
Location
New Delhi
Hello
I have the same problem on my turntable AT LP120 - brought by my son. It burnt out today when I plugged it in without switching on the AC transformer. Finding the fuse is the first hurdle: 250v 500mA. Can you please let me know if this fuse is available on the market in Delhi (India)? Also, did others encounter the problem with the micro fuse when replacing this?

Thanks
Arin
 

JkstrHmstr

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Joined
Feb 23, 2017
Messages
2
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Location
China
Man, this post just lives and lives!

First of all, thanks to everyone who has contributed so far. This is an entertaining and encouraging read.

So, I'm in China, and like all of you, I had a blown fuse in my AT-LP120. It was actually blown out when it arrived to my apartment. No idea how this could happen. I was pretty bummed out by this. But in the end, I had planned to mod the TT anyway, so I guess it's fine. I'm happy I got to look at the guts a little bit in preparation for my modding in a month or two... Anyway, thanks to this thread, I was easily able replace the fuse. Predictably, now my lights work but the platter still doesn't spin. Extra info: Though the lights work, the buttons to not seem to be responsive. For example, the pitch +/- doesn't switch over and the 33/45 speed selector is the same. The lights work, but it looks like the 'stylus aiming light' is really dim... Though I'm not sure about that, because I've never seen it running properly. *shrug*

So, may I too request the circuit diagram and some minimal instructions? My background in electrical engineering is nil, but I read in this thread you don't even need a solder iron for this fix, so that's promising. Please?

Thanks!
 

JkstrHmstr

New Member
Joined
Feb 23, 2017
Messages
2
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Location
China
Can anyone send me some instructions + the circuit diagram? Almost the same thing happened to me. Thanks!
 

subbubrd

New Member
Joined
Apr 22, 2017
Messages
2
Points
1
Location
India
Let me tell you upfront, my knowledge of electronics is very basic. I did my engineering in Mechanical and repaired my TT in the same spirit. :)

Yes, you have to open the TT and you can easily identify the fuse. Its a small glass tube, close to 1 cm long. You can get this in many local electronics shop. (You can also try Automobile spares shop, since cars also use this).
But in my case, in addition to this fuse, there was a micro fuse which was damaged. I was interacting with Audio Technica folks and they send me the circuit diagram. Unfortunately, I could not find a way to replace this fuse since this was mounted on the circuit board. All I did was bypass this fuse the TT started working fine.

I have the circuit diagram , however the filesize is 6 MB. If you can drop me a PM with your mail-id, I will be glad to share the same with you.
Hi Jimmy I have done the same mistake. Replaced the fuse. But motor doesn't work. Can you please send me the diagrams on mail I'd subbubrd@gmail.com. Thanks
 

subbubrd

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Joined
Apr 22, 2017
Messages
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Location
India
Nevermind, the fuse is on the top side of the central PCB which has the motor on it. The surface-mount fuse itself is behind where the 2-wire blue power connector from the transformer connects to the board. It's 1.5A rated. If you're brave you can just solder a jumper in instead, or use a solder-bridge.

Not particularly difficult to desolder & remove, the hardest part is getting the board off to work on as there's a fair few screws & cables to come off it. Really best to replace it properly however, although surface-mount components tend to be hard to come by in anything less than packs of 10 or so.

Pleased that a few cents of parts and a couple of hours of time was all that was needed to fix it rather than lots of money for a service agent!

HOWTO:

Before starting - remove; The cartridge. The platter. The balance weight. The SP adapter. The hinges from the lid.

Ensure the voltage selector is set correctly (230V and not 115V), that the power switch is turned OFF and that the power cable is definitely not plugged in.

Take the lid off & lay it on a table top-down and rest the main unit on the lid.

Remove the screws from the back, there are 8 screws total, each screw has a small brass spacer on the bottom of it which will almost certainly fall into the case when you remove the back, be VERY sure you retrieve them all!

Once the screws are removed, put the unit onto its feet and life the top off from the front as the USB & phono\line switch protrude through the case. You will also need to feed the RCA cables up through the hole as you lift it off.

Put the back\base aside, and rest the unit back onto the lid.

The main fuse is easily visible on a small circuit board by the main transformer. Mine had a rubber sleeve over it which lifts off, then you can remove the fuse by either hooking a fingernail under it, or gently prying it out from the sides with a small screwdriver. Don't lever against the glass part of the fuse!

If it is blown, you will probably be able to easily see a break in the wire inside it and/or burn marks inside the glass. You can also check with a multimeter that there is no continuity (infinite resistance) between the 2 metal caps.

Replace the fuse with another 240V or 250V 500mA slow-blow fuse. If you replace it with a fast-blow fuse then it'll probably blow every time you have a small power spike. Refit the rubber protective sleeve.

Put the turntable back onto the base, being careful with the RCA cables and feeding in the USB & phono/line switch, plug it in and power it on. If you get lights then you're in business. Put the platter onto the spindle and press "Start". If it spins then you are lucky and you have ONLY blown the primary fuse and can now reassemble the turntable!

Take the platter back off or it'll fall off during assembly.

The only parts to pay attention to while reassembling is that you may have to have the unit on its side while putting the base screws back in due to the little brass sleeves on them trying to fall off, tweezers can make this a little easier.

If the motor isn't working at this stage, then you've probably blown the secondary fuse on the central circuit board. Any wires that can be unplugged from it will need to be, you need to undo all the screws on the metal plate underneath where the platter sits - NOTE: Support the central board while doing this as it's fairly heavy and will fall off and may damage things further otherwise.

Once you have the board off, look on the spindle-side of it opposite where the 2 wire connector goes in and you should clearly see a labelled fuse, if you check it with a multimeter or continuity tester, you should get no signal which means the fuse has popped and will need to be replaced or bypassed. Do this as you wish then reassemble being careful to re-route the cables correctly.

All in all, not a particularly difficult job, just time consuming, and of course, given that you are dealing with mains voltage, if you're not confident with this, take it to either a proper AT repair agent or anyone certified to fix electronic audio devices.

Enjoy!
Hi, Thanks to your detailed explanation, I was able to identify the blown secondary fuse. I managed to bypass the fuse by connecting other two terminals with 3 strands of wire. The motor is spinning and the turntable is working fine. However after an hour of use I could sense some burning kind of a smell and the transformer seem to be heated up. The turntable is still working. What could be the reason.
 
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