Simple ICE 2 way Active on VW Vento

[balavignesh002]

Complete View of the Dash with HXD2 SE.

Few more recordings. Tamil Video 3 Hindi Video 1 Video 2

nice, simple and functional.
A good setup in a car, especially while traveling alone, is far more intimate and enriching than listening at home in my experience.

yes sir, crawling amongst the city traffic and highway journey.

 

[balavignesh002]

Few more Updates: I am not convinced on the over all cabling and termination. So decided to do some optimization.

Amp Rack: Drilled new holes for RCA and Speaker cable routing. Used the smallest Hole saw what I have.




The boot mat needs a modification so that the spare wheel and tools can be easily accessed. So cut the mat card board which will go underneath the amp rack. and pasted it with SR additive. Pasted few damping foam on the edges to keep it rattle noise free.



Now redid the power wire routing and secured it with heat shrink to avoid any leads peeping out and touching the negative and short the circuit, or catching dust on the bare wire gaps.




Not satisfied with the noise floor on the sound out put, so Found a better grounding place for amplifier power wires this is directly on the chassis.



Installed the amp rack and amplifier on the boot. Routed the wires as neat as possible to maintain lesser interferences. Secures the RCAs by tagging them, so it doesn't move or vibrate. this will ensure good contact.

 

[Kannan]

Few more Updates: I am not convinced on the over all cabling and termination. So decided to do some optimization.

Amp Rack: Drilled new holes for RCA and Speaker cable routing. Used the smallest Hole saw what I have.

View attachment 66335
View attachment 66336

The boot mat needs a modification so that the spare wheel and tools can be easily accessed. So cut the mat card board which will go underneath the amp rack. and pasted it with SR additive. Pasted few damping foam on the edges to keep it rattle noise free.

View attachment 66339

Now redid the power wire routing and secured it with heat shrink to avoid any leads peeping out and touching the negative and short the circuit, or catching dust on the bare wire gaps.
View attachment 66341
View attachment 66342
View attachment 66343

Not satisfied with the noise floor on the sound out put, so Found a better grounding place for amplifier power wires this is directly on the chassis.

View attachment 66345

Installed the amp rack and amplifier on the boot. Routed the wires as neat as possible to maintain lesser interferences. Secures the RCAs by tagging them, so it doesn't move or vibrate. this will ensure good contact.

View attachment 66348

Neat work. Grounding is very critical as the entire car body acts as ground

 

[balavignesh002]

Secondary Source: I often wish to have DAP as an additional source since Clarion HXD2 has CD as its only Source, but 2 x Analog Aux inputs. It would be good if i have a solution for playing my Ripped files from ACD and stream from online sources like Apple music and Spotify. Considering the added cost finalized on Fiio BTR5 2021.

This has a Car mode, which can detect ignition on and of and switch on / off its self automatically based on this input. Has a built in battery and can be charged by connecting to USB in car. Has a built in mic, if in case there is a need to attend phone calls, its made easy.

FIIO BTR5 2021 from HPZ. Its a COD order and HPZ made a next day delivery.







FIIO BTR5 2021 needs an interconnect cable to connect with the analog inputs of my head unit (3.5mm TRS male to RCA male). 90 degree TRS is a preferred option to have a compact install in car but I don't had much options. Finalized on Audio Quest Tower 1 meter cable based on friends suggestions.

The cable built quality is nice and there is no soldered terminals as its all company welded. This can decently give an edge on SQ by avoiding tin joints.

Audio Quest Tower 3.5mm TRS to RCA



Hooked it up in the car.



Planning to use a double side sticker and stick it to a convenient location. to conclude on the location i may need little time as i am not using this car much.

Clarion HXD2 has in put sensitivity configuration option for better optimization Low, Mid and High. After few listening concluded mid option is the suitable one. Put 60 (max) volume in BTR5 and full volume in phone for Bluetooth out. The integration is very simple just to switch on the ignition keys and play from the favorite Apps and tracks.

I had time to listen few tracks from Rhythm sound track on Spotify premium and compared it with CD. Its BTR5 Bluetooth streaming almost close to CD outcome on SQ and details, but depth and staging was slightly better in CD may be some fine tuning on can help.

 

[sajeet]

Few more Updates: I am not convinced on the over all cabling and termination. So decided to do some optimization.

Amp Rack: Drilled new holes for RCA and Speaker cable routing. Used the smallest Hole saw what I have.
View attachment 66335
View attachment 66336

The boot mat needs a modification so that the spare wheel and tools can be easily accessed. So cut the mat card board which will go underneath the amp rack. and pasted it with SR additive. Pasted few damping foam on the edges to keep it rattle noise free.

View attachment 66339

Now redid the power wire routing and secured it with heat shrink to avoid any leads peeping out and touching the negative and short the circuit, or catching dust on the bare wire gaps.
View attachment 66341
View attachment 66342
View attachment 66343

Not satisfied with the noise floor on the sound out put, so Found a better grounding place for amplifier power wires this is directly on the chassis.

View attachment 66345

Installed the amp rack and amplifier on the boot. Routed the wires as neat as possible to maintain lesser interferences. Secures the RCAs by tagging them, so it doesn't move or vibrate. this will ensure good contact.

View attachment 66348Neat & clean install

Have you used ferrules for amp cables?

 

[balavignesh002]

Have you used ferrules for amp cables?

Yes, I have used them on Jetta with McIntosh amps. Both power and speaker wires. I prefer heat shrinks over ferrules as the cables are tinned ofc.

 

[balavignesh002]

Update:

Wanted to try McIntosh Amps in this setup, So traded the existing Brian B4 amps for money few days ago to one of a known friend.




Just put the McIntosh amps to see if they can be inserted with out any hurdle. Found some adequate space, These are 2 x 2 channel amps, May need to drill additional holes on the rack for wires to accommodate another amp and re-route the cables. will keep posted.

 

[yugaaa]

Now redid the power wire routing and secured it with heat shrink to avoid any leads peeping out and touching the negative and short the circuit, or catching dust on the bare wire gaps.

please use a copper lug soldered to the wire and heat shrink . Bare wire does not offer full contact . Another advantage with copper lugs is that the screw in nuts do not get loose due to vibration .

With regard to the earth point , the best place is the negative terminal of the battery and if possible connect all the devices in the chain to the same power supply cables . The power supply for the HU to be sourced from the amp supply cables to avoid ground loops . Lastly , a cap of at least 5,000 mfd. 50v with min 105 C temp rating to be connected to the HU power supply . You will find that the music gets much sweeter .

Instead of plywood try to use HYLAM sheet . They are a bit costlier than plywood ,but advantage is that they can withstand heat , humidity and you can use a 10mm instead of 18mm plywood .

 

[balavignesh002]

please use a copper lug

I am using anodized brass terminals from knukoncept. I have used these in my previous install, for 5 years no problem. Copper lugs need to be soldered, i don't want tin in between.

With regard to the earth point , the best place is the negative terminal of the battery

The head unit comes with 10 AWG power wire kit for both positive and negative terminal and I put them to battery +& -. For Amplifier it's 4awg wire from battery, but the ground is close to the place where Amplifier is mounted that's the best way of grounding.

Lastly , a cap of at least 5,000 mfd. 50v with min 105 C temp rating to be connected to the HU power supply .

It's Clarion HXD2, has DC to DC converter with capacitor and noise filter in it.

Instead of plywood

I am using 10mm MDF.

 

[Kannan]

but the ground is close to the place where Amplifier is mounted that's the best way of grounding.

True, it should be the shortest path.
@balavignesh002 So how has the music presentation changed after switching over to the Mcintosh. Did you have to retune or only play with the gains?

 

[balavignesh002]

True, it should be the shortest path.
@balavignesh002 So how has the music presentation changed after switching over to the Mcintosh. Did you have to retune or only play with the gains?

Yet to connect the wires.. no much of time. No good installers around near by.

 

[balavignesh002]

Installed McIntosh AMPs Finally. Its wonderful to listen music in car now with the warmth of McIntosh.

So how has the music presentation changed after switching over to the Mcintosh.

Sir, I can hear more details and the presentation warm now. The harshness on certain high frequency notes gone now. can feel the depth better.

Did you have to retune or only play with the gains?

Only i have to match the gain, rest all remain same. Dayton RS180P-4 is rated 60W RMS with peak of 90W, but the amp is 40W RMS only. Bass notes are not as punchy as the previous amp which is rated 90W RMS.

Some time want to try a midbass which is rated 30W or 40W RMS. what is your take on Dayton RS150P-4A 6" Reference Paper 4 Ohm Woofer?

​

 

[balavignesh002]

Decided to change the woofer to a less power consuming one, so that i can reduce the load on amp which is 40W RMS. Short listed the below. Please suggest me a 4 ohm driver which is rated 30W - 40W RMS.

1. Dayton Audio RS150P-4A 6" Reference Paper Woofer 4 Ohm
2. SB Acoustics SB16PFCR25-4 6" Paper Cone Woofer - 4 ohm

Any other options out there, please suggest me.

 

[balavignesh002]

2. SB Acoustics SB16PFCR25-4 6" Paper Cone Woofer - 4 ohm

Got these for 5500 INR a pair from DIYAUDIOCART.COM, and it's delivered today. Dayton reference 6 inch woofer is 15000 INR, last year got it for 9.5k and didn’t like the price hike as its still sold in the same price on other countries.

Post after my purchase i noticed even this driver price is increased by 1200 INR. Can sense the tough situations for business people. And even more tougher economic situations for people like me.

6″ SB16PFCR25-4 / Paper Cone Woofer.











Will try to install next week, and keep posting the result.

 

[balavignesh002]

Update:

Yesterday had some time to install these drivers. its a simple and easy replacement as the spacers can accommodate this driver basket.

It’s an easy plug and play wiring. can notice the outgoing Daytons reference speaker lying on the driver seat.



4 Screw mounting on Spacer damped with rex to resist moisture.



Now the small amp can comfortably drive the speaker and the cone is kicking better, can hear the bass slam of McIntosh Amp.

 

[balavignesh002]

Tuning Update:

Since tweeter and woofer are driver by separate amplifier and both has different input sensitivity gain setting (McIntosh MC 432 is 2 volt and MCC 82 is 3 volt). I can notice tweeter pronouncing more on high notes, Especially female vocals. So tried matching the gain settings on amp and set 2.5 db attenuation on tweeter level out of DSP (Headunit), this worked.

Post trying few settings, Fine tuned the crossover to HPF 2000 Hz with 18db slope on tweeter, LPF 2000 Hz with 18db slope and HPF 63 Hz with 18db slope on woofer.

Earlier had a 180 degree phase change in woofer due to 12db slope, now changed it 0 degree as it worked well.

Left the time alignment as its as there is no change in location of the drivers and staging is spot on the car dash.

 

[balavignesh002]

Upgrades:

Got a chance to grab hold a 100W RMS x 2 Channel McIntosh MC427 Power amp for Kick bass. Will plan the install next week.

 

[balavignesh002]

Made a speaker cable for this setup, planing to install this along with amp next week.
Hookup wire for tweeter

 

[balavignesh002]

Ran out of solid core hookup wire, as I need 1 meter pairs for Midbass on the door.

So made hook up cables form the leftover OCC wire.

Striped 3 wires pair for - and + and straighten them.


Soldered to the female bullet plug.

Twisted the trio and put a heat shrink to hold them


Solder finished the speaker side end.


Applied transparent heat shrinks to the full length to cover and hold the cable.

Added this nylon sleeve to keep it noise free from vibration and can insulate the bullet pin joints.


Full set of cable ready to install

 

[sajeet]

Nice install Balavignesh, may I know the position of staging, is it over the dash or at ear level?