Stands for Harbeth C7es3

Sushant Sharma

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Hello all,
Perhaps I should have started this thread seeking advice a little earlier. I have commissioned pinewood stands from a local carpenter and the stands have been cut to size already.
My concern is they arent very heavy. I am using spikes underneath for decoupling. These stands are the open variety. Attaching a photo from the internet for reference. The stands are 18 inches tall and add to that the height of the spikes and a slate cut out I will place under the spikes. My listening chair is low/ish.
Any tips for anything else I can do or account for. will appreciate all inputs and advice. thanks Screenshot_20201119-211005_Facebook.jpg
 

jai1611

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Place feet below the spikes. Help with stability a bit. The light weight is not an issue for stability. The worry would be more about the speakers getting knocked off the stand by a wayward child
 

oldmonk

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I spy a Naim CD player in the background and lots of nice music!

Also spy the speakers on metal stands in the background. Are the pillars of those hollow ?

Does Harbeth recommend lossy stands ?

If so then the pillars are to be hollow.

But I guess that doesn't answer your question
 

Sushant Sharma

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Place feet below the spikes. Help with stability a bit. The light weight is not an issue for stability. The worry would be more about the speakers getting knocked off the stand by a wayward child
@jai1611 thanks. glad to know the weight of the stands is not an issue and only stability and them getting knocked off, the only concern. may I ask, what you mean when you say, "place feet below spikes". I was thinking of only the spikes being attached to the bottom of the stands.
 

Sushant Sharma

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I spy a Naim CD player in the background and lots of nice music!

Also spy the speakers on metal stands in the background. Are the pillars of those hollow ?

Does Harbeth recommend lossy stands ?

If so then the pillars are to be hollow.

But I guess that doesn't answer your question
@oldmonk thanks for your reply. that photo is from the internet and for reference only since the stands I am getting made are almost identical.
Great observations though and yes looks like some great music there.
Yes, Harbeth does recommend lossy stands. good to know hollow/lightweight pillars will work well.
 

jai1611

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@jai1611 thanks. glad to know the weight of the stands is not an issue and only stability and them getting knocked off, the only concern. may I ask, what you mean when you say, "place feet below spikes". I was thinking of only the spikes being attached to the bottom of the stands.
Spike mounted below the stand. You get feet which go between the spike and the floor

Some pictures here
 

panditji

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@jai1611 thanks. glad to know the weight of the stands is not an issue and only stability and them getting knocked off, the only concern. may I ask, what you mean when you say, "place feet below spikes". I was thinking of only the spikes being attached to the bottom of the stands.

I think he meant the plates on which the spikes rest and not directly placed on the floor..
 

himadri

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I'm using Soundfoundations hollow metallic stands with spikes with the harbeth P3esr placed on four small soft pads which stick to the top plate of the stands.
I think the soft stickable pads and spikes can be ordered separately from sound foundations.
 

oldmonk

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@oldmonk thanks for your reply. that photo is from the internet and for reference only since the stands I am getting made are almost identical.
Great observations though and yes looks like some great music there.
Yes, Harbeth does recommend lossy stands. good to know hollow/lightweight pillars will work well.
Just be reminded that hollow and light weight need not be the same thing.
 

arj

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OPen
Hello all,
Perhaps I should have started this thread seeking advice a little earlier. I have commissioned pinewood stands from a local carpenter and the stands have been cut to size already.
My concern is they arent very heavy. I am using spikes underneath for decoupling. These stands are the open variety. Attaching a photo from the internet for reference. The stands are 18 inches tall and add to that the height of the spikes and a slate cut out I will place under the spikes. My listening chair is low/ish.
Any tips for anything else I can do or account for. will appreciate all inputs and advice. thanks
Hi,
Many speakers like harbeth prefer open stands due to them being Lossy and hence weight should not be a factor. But from what limited understanding I have, the material of the stand does play a role in this since literally a stand needs to be considered as an extension of the speaker. I have seen some folks Preferring Maple stands, and those are pretty light. No Idea of Pine though.

Am sure you would have considered the ear level of the tweeters as well as the height of the drivers from the ground during the design ?
 

Nitin K

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Hello all,
Perhaps I should have started this thread seeking advice a little earlier. I have commissioned pinewood stands from a local carpenter and the stands have been cut to size already.
My concern is they arent very heavy. I am using spikes underneath for decoupling. These stands are the open variety. Attaching a photo from the internet for reference. The stands are 18 inches tall and add to that the height of the spikes and a slate cut out I will place under the spikes. My listening chair is low/ish.
Any tips for anything else I can do or account for. will appreciate all inputs and advice. thanks View attachment 52782
Skylan stands are used a lot with the Harbeths. Although your stands are almost done but pls do take a look at the design in the image with the Harbeth.
 

raghupb

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Try this:
Sand down using 80-150-220 on bare wood
Apply generous coat of boiled linseed oil (BLO).

Pine wood will soak it up nicely. Will also get a reddish hue.
Let it sun dry (as much as possible) for a few days.
Reapply BLO one or two more times. Then seal and apply varnish
The entire process may take a couple of weeks at least

Try on a sample piece of wood to see if you like the result before committing on the actual stands

Cheers,
Raghu
 

raghupb

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@raghupb thanks for the brilliant idea of linseed oil. I have used it before but escaped my mind to use it this time. Will definitely use it and I have a bottle lying around.
@Naturelover thanks. I am aware but just wanted to do some DIY.
Make sure it is Boiled Linseed Oil. Raw Linseed Oil, the one used to season willow of cricket bats takes forever to dry out.
Cheers,
Raghu
 
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