Xiaomi to launch Mi TV Q1 75" on 23rd March - QLED, 192 Zones, 120Hz

I was waiting since this TV's launch for it to be available for my location on Flipkart. Finally was able to place order for the TV this morning. The TV is still in stock on Flipkart. Please check if it's deliverable to your location.
Ohh lucky you. Where are you from?
 
I was waiting since this TV's launch for it to be available for my location on Flipkart. Finally was able to place order for the TV this morning. The TV is still in stock on Flipkart. Please check if it's deliverable to your location.
Congratulations. How much did it cost to you?
Stupid flipkart mixed it with all models. See how now we have 2000+ reviews.
 

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Congratulations. How much did it cost to you?
Stupid flipkart mixed it with all models. See how now we have 2000+ reviews.
Thank you. I paid ₹1,05,252
after all the discounts. (HDFC Credit card and no cost EMI).

I totally agree with you on Flipkart mixing reviews for this model and the 55 incher model.
 
Have questions on the Wall Bracket installation.

The TV width is 66 inches, I have space of 78 inches (so half a feet gap on each side), and the box has a depth of 12inches.
Is it difficult to wallmount it?

I was hoping to use the swivel wallmount, the MI person is discouraging even for the regular wallmount. I think to keep the tv on the base mount, I need 14inches of space, plus I will lose space to keep the soundbar.

Would 6inches on the side be sufficient to changing HDMI cabling connections?
I got my Mi Q1 75 installed on a Swivel mount fixed to Plywood paneling. I bought the mount from Amazon. But your woodwork appears to be MDF. I would not recommend wall mount if it is MDF panel.

What I usually do is get some HDMI and USB extender cables from AmazonBasics and keep them plugged into TV. I then hide the other end behind the TV and take it out when I need to connect something.
 
I got my TV installed yesterday. The first thing I noticed was how bright the display gets, almost blinding for night time watching. HDR videos from Youtube look stunning.

But Netflix HDR and DV shows look washed out and dark as usual. Also dark scenes from a Netflix 4k DV show looked quite grainy. Normal FullHD Music videos from Youtube don't look that good either, they are bright but colors look wrong and skin tones look abnormal.

I haven't explored HDR and DV shows from Amazon and AppleTV etc. I am happy with panel's brightness and PQ while playing Youtube HDR videos but concerned about the quality of Netflix HDR.
 
I got my TV installed yesterday. The first thing I noticed was how bright the display gets, almost blinding for night time watching. HDR videos from Youtube look stunning.

But Netflix HDR and DV shows look washed out and dark as usual. Also dark scenes from a Netflix 4k DV show looked quite grainy. Normal FullHD Music videos from Youtube don't look that good either, they are bright but colors look wrong and skin tones look abnormal.

I haven't explored HDR and DV shows from Amazon and AppleTV etc. I am happy with panel's brightness and PQ while playing Youtube HDR videos but concerned about the quality of Netflix HDR.
Change the color gamut in advanced settings and reduce the brightness to 47. Play around with color tuner / flesh tones.
 
Thank you. I paid ₹1,05,252
after all the discounts. (HDFC Credit card and no cost EMI).

I totally agree with you on Flipkart mixing reviews for this model and the 55 incher model.
Amazing price, lucky you with credit card. How did you get 20k discount? Considering that tv is now 1.25.
 
Kind of agree. Lots of kinks on arc and the software front. My 3rd tv (2nd) replacement is coming tomorrow. Tv number 1 had intransit damage, tv number 2 has two hdmi ports conked out (hdmi 2 and 3) and arc isn't working with my Yamaha Rxv475. On arc, i suspect the reason is that the tv is fed the hdmi signal from the avr using a hdmi splitter. But when i connect hdmi out from my avr directly, i don't get a picture at all. I am using a new blue rigger 8k cable. Its perplexing to note that the tv is displaying only 1080p 60 hz through the splitter after the cable upgrade. I suppose this is an after effect of the software "upgrade" performed my Mi technicians at my home to rectify the hdmi port issues. I have tested this with two new 8k cables now. If you can make peace with it, best to use it only as a dumb display. Software and QA are big letdowns for a great value for money product. The only bright spot has been rock solid customer service support from Mi throughout these episodes.
Tv number 3 arrived today, completing my second replacement. Some points and clarifications that i wanted to bring up:
1. The issue of only 1080p 60 hz display mentioned by me yesterday was resolved in the old detective tv itself. I had to refresh the EDID switch in my Orei splitter
2. While ARC implementation seems to be dodgy, others have had success with Marantz and other AVRs. I am inclined to provide the benefit of doubt to Xiaomi as it could be a handshake issue with my Yamaha. Besides, i was overlooking the fact that there was a splitter in the whole chain of components
3. I am observing lot of pixellation in sd content and archival footage in services like discovery+. Is this normal due to the upscaling process?
4. I see motion judder in certain slow panning shots. Is this something we have to live with? Are any of you using the motion smoothing options different?

I just need a crisp, vibrant and big display. I'd much rather leave the heavy lifting to any one of the streaming/gaming devices attached to my AVR. Hope to put the replacements behind and start enjoying the tv!
Cheers
 
3. I am observing lot of pixellation in sd content and archival footage in services like discovery+. Is this normal due to the upscaling process?
Even Netflix DV shows appear heavily pixelated during dark scenes, appear to be worse than 720p videos. But that observation is from short viewing time, will explore content other streaming services and play around with Picture settings.
 
I got my Mi Q1 75 installed on a Swivel mount fixed to Plywood paneling. I bought the mount from Amazon. But your woodwork appears to be MDF. I would not recommend wall mount if it is MDF panel.

What I usually do is get some HDMI and USB extender cables from AmazonBasics and keep them plugged into TV. I then hide the other end behind the TV and take it out when I need to connect something.
Can you please share the amazon product link to the wall mount?
 
How were you able to get this price. Though not buying currently but final price I am seeing in13999 on selecting HDFC CC EMI option.
I've posted a screen shot of all the offers I got. You can compare it with the offers you are getting. Flipkart keeps on changing the offers.
 
ok. got it. missed your last post earlier. 8747 is EMI discount which i think is discount given on EMI interest charged. but EMI amount mentioned is 9500x12. which translates to 1,14,000
 
Tv number 3 arrived today, completing my second replacement. Some points and clarifications that i wanted to bring up:
1. The issue of only 1080p 60 hz display mentioned by me yesterday was resolved in the old detective tv itself. I had to refresh the EDID switch in my Orei splitter
2. While ARC implementation seems to be dodgy, others have had success with Marantz and other AVRs. I am inclined to provide the benefit of doubt to Xiaomi as it could be a handshake issue with my Yamaha. Besides, i was overlooking the fact that there was a splitter in the whole chain of components
3. I am observing lot of pixellation in sd content and archival footage in services like discovery+. Is this normal due to the upscaling process?
4. I see motion judder in certain slow panning shots. Is this something we have to live with? Are any of you using the motion smoothing options different?

I just need a crisp, vibrant and big display. I'd much rather leave the heavy lifting to any one of the streaming/gaming devices attached to my AVR. Hope to put the replacements behind and start enjoying the tv!
Cheers
I have mentioned this a few times earlier. If you can, borrow a HDMI 2.0 or 2.1 cable and check for reliability with ARC. Even the cheapest cable will do. Just a reputed manufacturer or make. I use a legacy receiver too which goes up to HDMI 1.4 only and its connected to a HDMI 2.0 TV. I could not get ARC to work at all. Some have said it works and the audio stutters. In my case, no audio at all. All I did was buy a new HDMI 2.0 cable and the problem vanished as soon as I plugged it in. I did not do anything else. Like some others who reported, I did not know what HDMI cable version I was using earlier. It was just some cable that I had and was using for the last 4 years, reliably with my Samsung htib. Arc worked without a hitch.

HDMI as is, has been dodgy from day one. Its a combination of all the software and hardware version and releases that complicates things. Not to forget, all the licensing agreements one has to pay for it to work.

Ignore the pixelation for SD content. That is how it will be. No TV can magically correct that. You may actually see pixellation with HD content too owing to the size of the screen. I can see grain and pixellation even on a 55" TV with streaming content. Even the best of TV's have this and can be corrected only with external software processing. Yes; poor upscaling can cause that problem. I tend not to bother upscaling as it only ruins the image.

Your TV is rated at 120 Mhz, artificially enhanced refresh rate. Its basically frame insertion. The manufacturer does not publish the native refresh rate and I doubt if its higher than 60hz considering the cost of the TV. Depending on what you are watching, you will experience some or very poor motion handling. The only way to know the true capability of the TV's motion handling is to feed a Blu Ray disc. I don't use motion smoothing even on my Sony, which is pretty well implemented. Its weird looking and that film motion looks artificial. Some folks like it, more for bragging rights on making the TV look good. In my view, its all marketing nonsense. Very few TV's get this right and if you want the ultimate, the TV must do 100 or 120hz native refresh rate (Not via software).

For the misinformed, folks who make their judgement on a product based on theoretical benchmarks such as nit rating, dxomark, etc and all that nonsense, you need to take all of that with a grain of salt. To clear the air, I work in visual effects. We use nothing less than the best cameras, lenses, projectors and TV's. For us, none of these ratings matter. It is a mere guide for a product. All we care about is if a display is color accurate and if it can be calibrated. In this space, there are only 6 names that come up. Eizo, LG, Panasonic, JVC, HP Dreamcolor and Sony. We used Pioneer Kuro's back in the day as they were the best. Then we moved to Panasonic and now we are on LG C1's. The LG's are the best to date and have been consistent in their panels for the last 4 years. By the way, we can't reliably calibrate even a TV like this. Its a hit or miss. Once we do calibrate, they stay on and are never switched off as if you do, you lose the calibration settings. They are left on always, even if no content is playing on them. At the most, if we care lucky, we may get 26,000 hours of reliable screen life. That is about 3 years of not turning of the TV post which the panel just burns out and we get washed colors. This is no good for us. For someone to tell me that the TV being discussed here is the best of its kind, you must be joking. If that's what you can afford, I can understand. We all have our budgets. Personally; I cannot buy a TV like this. One that is unproven in the field. That too from a manufacturer who's is relatively unknown in the space of building TV's. If the product was so good, the whole world will be buying it. What I see here is a purchase primarily for its low price and screen real estate. It means nothing to me. I will be content and happy with a smaller screen that is proven to perform better. Not a blind buy or based on some random internet review. You don't buy a TV for the short term. You buy one that will be consistent in its performance and you want some kind of manufacturer support well beyond the warranty. I can guarantee that will be non existent with this brand. If 75" is the TV you want and this is the only TV you can afford, go ahead and buy one. All I ask is look at what else you can buy for similar money and lesser screen real estate from some of the known names in TV. You won't regret it. Its your hard earned money. Don't throw it away like that.
 
I have mentioned this a few times earlier. If you can, borrow a HDMI 2.0 or 2.1 cable and check for reliability with ARC. Even the cheapest cable will do. Just a reputed manufacturer or make. I use a legacy receiver too which goes up to HDMI 1.4 only and its connected to a HDMI 2.0 TV. I could not get ARC to work at all. Some have said it works and the audio stutters. In my case, no audio at all. All I did was buy a new HDMI 2.0 cable and the problem vanished as soon as I plugged it in. I did not do anything else. Like some others who reported, I did not know what HDMI cable version I was using earlier. It was just some cable that I had and was using for the last 4 years, reliably with my Samsung htib. Arc worked without a hitch.

HDMI as is, has been dodgy from day one. Its a combination of all the software and hardware version and releases that complicates things. Not to forget, all the licensing agreements one has to pay for it to work.

Ignore the pixelation for SD content. That is how it will be. No TV can magically correct that. You may actually see pixellation with HD content too owing to the size of the screen. I can see grain and pixellation even on a 55" TV with streaming content. Even the best of TV's have this and can be corrected only with external software processing. Yes; poor upscaling can cause that problem. I tend not to bother upscaling as it only ruins the image.

Your TV is rated at 120 Mhz, artificially enhanced refresh rate. Its basically frame insertion. The manufacturer does not publish the native refresh rate and I doubt if its higher than 60hz considering the cost of the TV. Depending on what you are watching, you will experience some or very poor motion handling. The only way to know the true capability of the TV's motion handling is to feed a Blu Ray disc. I don't use motion smoothing even on my Sony, which is pretty well implemented. Its weird looking and that film motion looks artificial. Some folks like it, more for bragging rights on making the TV look good. In my view, its all marketing nonsense. Very few TV's get this right and if you want the ultimate, the TV must do 100 or 120hz native refresh rate (Not via software).

For the misinformed, folks who make their judgement on a product based on theoretical benchmarks such as nit rating, dxomark, etc and all that nonsense, you need to take all of that with a grain of salt. To clear the air, I work in visual effects. We use nothing less than the best cameras, lenses, projectors and TV's. For us, none of these ratings matter. It is a mere guide for a product. All we care about is if a display is color accurate and if it can be calibrated. In this space, there are only 6 names that come up. Eizo, LG, Panasonic, JVC, HP Dreamcolor and Sony. We used Pioneer Kuro's back in the day as they were the best. Then we moved to Panasonic and now we are on LG C1's. The LG's are the best to date and have been consistent in their panels for the last 4 years. By the way, we can't reliably calibrate even a TV like this. Its a hit or miss. Once we do calibrate, they stay on and are never switched off as if you do, you lose the calibration settings. They are left on always, even if no content is playing on them. At the most, if we care lucky, we may get 26,000 hours of reliable screen life. That is about 3 years of not turning of the TV post which the panel just burns out and we get washed colors. This is no good for us. For someone to tell me that the TV being discussed here is the best of its kind, you must be joking. If that's what you can afford, I can understand. We all have our budgets. Personally; I cannot buy a TV like this. One that is unproven in the field. That too from a manufacturer who's is relatively unknown in the space of building TV's. If the product was so good, the whole world will be buying it. What I see here is a purchase primarily for its low price and screen real estate. It means nothing to me. I will be content and happy with a smaller screen that is proven to perform better. Not a blind buy or based on some random internet review. You don't buy a TV for the short term. You buy one that will be consistent in its performance and you want some kind of manufacturer support well beyond the warranty. I can guarantee that will be non existent with this brand. If 75" is the TV you want and this is the only TV you can afford, go ahead and buy one. All I ask is look at what else you can buy for similar money and lesser screen real estate from some of the known names in TV. You won't regret it. Its your hard earned money. Don't throw it away like that.
Your TV is rated at 120 Mhz, artificially enhanced refresh rate. Its basically frame insertion. The manufacturer does not publish the native refresh rate and I doubt if its higher than 60hz considering the cost of the TV. Depending on what you are watching, you will experience some or very poor motion handling. The only way to know the true capability of the TV's motion handling is to feed a Blu Ray disc. I don't use motion smoothing even on my Sony, which is pretty well implemented. Its weird looking and that film motion looks artificial. Some folks like it, more for bragging rights on making the TV look good. In my view, its all marketing nonsense. Very few TV's get this right and if you want the ultimate, the TV must do 100 or 120hz native refresh rate (Not via software). @lightgamer you must read this lol.

Let me tell you for the final time on this forum, the native refresh rate of this panel is 120hz. You should have atleast checked previous posts.
And why are you adding 26,000 hours figure, when it's already told than even Samsung uses same panels. Life will be same for all. I have also calibrated this display long time ago and about other TVs I own Sony OLED myself in bedroom. Plus I am tired of saying bruhhh, atleast see the TV before commenting on PQ.
You don't buy this TV bro. No one is forcing you but your post is absolutely false with facts.
 
For the misinformed, folks who make their judgement on a product based on theoretical benchmarks such as nit rating, dxomark, etc and all that nonsense, you need to take all of that with a grain of salt. To clear the air, I work in visual effects. We use nothing less than the best cameras, lenses, projectors and TV's. For us, none of these ratings matter. It is a mere guide for a product. All we care about is if a display is color accurate and if it can be calibrated. In this space, there are only 6 names that come up. Eizo, LG, Panasonic, JVC, HP Dreamcolor and Sony. We used Pioneer Kuro's back in the day as they were the best. Then we moved to Panasonic and now we are on LG C1's. The LG's are the best to date and have been consistent in their panels for the last 4 years. By the way, we can't reliably calibrate even a TV like this. Its a hit or miss. Once we do calibrate, they stay on and are never switched off as if you do, you lose the calibration settings. They are left on always, even if no content is playing on them. At the most, if we care lucky, we may get 26,000 hours of reliable screen life. That is about 3 years of not turning of the TV post which the panel just burns out and we get washed colors. This is no good for us. For someone to tell me that the TV being discussed here is the best of its kind, you must be joking. If that's what you can afford, I can understand. We all have our budgets. Personally; I cannot buy a TV like this. One that is unproven in the field. That too from a manufacturer who's is relatively unknown in the space of building TV's. If the product was so good, the whole world will be buying it. What I see here is a purchase primarily for its low price and screen real estate. It means nothing to me. I will be content and happy with a smaller screen that is proven to perform better. Not a blind buy or based on some random internet review. You don't buy a TV for the short term. You buy one that will be consistent in its performance and you want some kind of manufacturer support well beyond the warranty. I can guarantee that will be non existent with this brand. If 75" is the TV you want and this is the only TV you can afford, go ahead and buy one. All I ask is look at what else you can buy for similar money and lesser screen real estate from some of the known names in TV. You won't regret it. Its your hard earned money. Don't throw it away like that
Bro Relax!!! No one is saying that mi q1 is the best tv ever made. We r saying this is the best 75 inch tv under 2 lakhs in India. If I have the money then I will go and buy 75 inch OLED.
Dont ever think Xiaomi is a cheap brand . Xiaomi started in India on 2012 and in q3 2017 they overtook Samsung to be no 1 smartphone brand in India. In the same time big brands like Sony and LG are trying very hard but not succeeding in mobile business. So don’t talk about manufacturers history and support and all. Yes they r new to TV business but they can become success like smartphone business.
Do not blindly hate the brand. At least go and see the demo once and talk about the tv. We r here to help the fellow members.
 
Did further set of experiment and lot of forum digging & research. The problem is with Dolby Digital plus over ARC, and is not limited to any particular AVR brand. Even Denon has its fair share of problem:

https://www.avforums.com/threads/cannot-get-dd-or-dts-audio-any-suggestions.2286940/

https://www.avforums.com/threads/dd-over-arc-denon-1913.2311093/

There seems to be ARC handshaking issue that happens between TV and Receiver when its DD+. In this case of MI TV the handshake happens for DD+, however, moment you play/pause/play the connection breaks and one has to toggle between the source. That's why even in some cases when firestick is configured to provide DD+ the problem occurs, with DD there is no problem at all.

From various threads, it seems like that certain TVs who haven't properly implemented backward compatibility have this issue. A properly baked TV shouldn't have such glaring problems.

What MI could do is that for HDMI (ARC) provide DD output as well along with PCM and passthrough. They have provided this for SPDIF BTW.
 
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