Amp enclosures/chasis cabinets
- Thread starter magma
- Start date
hi all
you must understand that it will cost more than what the cabinet retails on the website since this would be a 1 off or maybe a 2 off job compared to the mass production that the original manufacturers do
estimate given in PM
you must understand that it will cost more than what the cabinet retails on the website since this would be a 1 off or maybe a 2 off job compared to the mass production that the original manufacturers do
estimate given in PM
I will be interested in this too. I will need two units. Let me know the price please.
Cheers.
crisscross
Member
Hi Magma,
Sure I'm interested. I suggest you gauge the demand though this thread and work out your pricing and post it on the thread.
Rgds
Rajesh
Sure I'm interested. I suggest you gauge the demand though this thread and work out your pricing and post it on the thread.
Rgds
Rajesh
PM'ed you
Looks like you will have at least 6 orders on hand ... not much I know but still ...
but please finish the GC prototype first as I would like to go for a cheaper one AFAP
Cheers
GeorgeO
Well-Known Member
Im also interested in one or two + depending on pricing, possibly a larger one for a 5 channel amp
hmm
there is some intrest
maybe ill make one all ALU cab and put it up fpr sale after all
prices wee'll see later
However the steel MODU cab will be first
This i thought long and hard.did a few tests too
whatever most diyers use and post; im of the opinion that nut bolting cab sides is NOT the best idea.
The best is rivetting which will never keep going loose over time
Hence ive thought to have best of both worlds and make a cabinet with all riveted sides EXCEPT for the front plate,rear plate and top plate
Basically 3 sides rivetted to form a single piece and the other 3 sides screw ON
this will prove to be rigid and will also give flexibility for soldering etc
there is yet another option suggested by a fellow audiophile
who asked me to consider the cheapest option
Buy a ready made ( albeit ) shitty cab from the market
Mod it strenthen it - change front and back plate completely
this would probably be the most economical
there is some intrest
maybe ill make one all ALU cab and put it up fpr sale after all
prices wee'll see later
However the steel MODU cab will be first
This i thought long and hard.did a few tests too
whatever most diyers use and post; im of the opinion that nut bolting cab sides is NOT the best idea.
The best is rivetting which will never keep going loose over time
Hence ive thought to have best of both worlds and make a cabinet with all riveted sides EXCEPT for the front plate,rear plate and top plate
Basically 3 sides rivetted to form a single piece and the other 3 sides screw ON
this will prove to be rigid and will also give flexibility for soldering etc
there is yet another option suggested by a fellow audiophile
who asked me to consider the cheapest option
Buy a ready made ( albeit ) shitty cab from the market
Mod it strenthen it - change front and back plate completely
this would probably be the most economical
This sounds good. Go for it!!
hyeah:I think front plate can be same thickness as rear with holes for attaching custom wood panel? Else we can go for thicker 6mm front, but cost will go up. Or maybe you can provide option of thick and thin for those that want wood.
-G
Looks greattttttttttttttttGeorgeO
Well-Known Member
Here's a few more: Brian's Gallery :: Finished Gainclones using my boards
front panel can be 8 mm thick
but rear panel cannot be thicker than 4 mm
if made thicker portions of it (where rca and speaker binding posts and power inlet are)will have to be milled to 4mm anyway since most of you probably know that rca and speaker binding posts have threads for only 8mm lenght - this means a 4 mm thick wall will leave only 4 mm for tightening which is just enough
such blind ( blind meaning not thru - i thought id clarify before gobble pounces) milling unnecesarily jacks up cab mfg costs
but rear panel cannot be thicker than 4 mm
if made thicker portions of it (where rca and speaker binding posts and power inlet are)will have to be milled to 4mm anyway since most of you probably know that rca and speaker binding posts have threads for only 8mm lenght - this means a 4 mm thick wall will leave only 4 mm for tightening which is just enough
such blind ( blind meaning not thru - i thought id clarify before gobble pounces) milling unnecesarily jacks up cab mfg costs
Gimme a chance to say something man!!
hyeah:Yes the rear panel can be 2mm actually, 2mm is quite good.
Cheers
This looks very low cost Brian's Gallery :: Walter Geeraerts' Gainclone :: GainClone_01
This is easiest with local carpenter Brian's Gallery :: Ultrachrome's Gainclone :: woody1
Not bad idea, using heatsink for one panel Brian's Gallery :: Chip's Gainclone :: P4150013
Cheers
How about spot welding. Rivets are ugly.
yes but nut bolts are uglier
spot welding is good but for that i would require a correct machine and proper jig.an incorrect weld cannot be rectified.
Furhtermore withoout a jig spot welding will be skill dependent on the operater.
i rarely trust the skill of operaters i dont know
A beautiful, well-constructed speaker with class-leading soundstage, imaging and bass that is fast, deep, and precise.
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