Best ever deal for loudspeaker kits.

Friends, those of you who have taken single servo sub kits.... Are you planning to build a sealed sub or ported one? If any of the fms have started the build already it may make sense that all of us talk to each other and that way we can save time on deciding on what material to buy n the sources etc. What do you guys say? As far as my sub is concerned I have ordered a 19mm 8*4 Greenply Mdf sheet which will be delivered at dealers shop tom & I have spoken to carpenter to go with me there to get it cut into prices of required size n same carpenter will help with the sub built..

Yes i am planning for a sealed type cabin build for the sub and a floorstander type for the Encore thing.. As i got my kits delivered yesterday. I started my cabin build today. For tht i am starting a new thread with pics of the build.. So FM's plz help me with ur valuable suggestions for the build.
 
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I spoke to a FM who has built the sub cabinet and I think we can even get it done with help of a reasonably good carpenter, trying to get it done by a carpenter.
What are your plans?


Hi Naren,
Are you getting it done through the guy in Irla? Or some other workshop?
 
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is anyone trying to get it painted by an automobile paint shop? It might be cheaper that way.
In other words, instead of a carpenter, try a car-painter :)
 
is anyone trying to get it painted by an automobile paint shop? It might be cheaper that way.
In other words, instead of a carpenter, try a car-painter :)

Dont try with a car painter who hasn't done the MDF painting before else we should tell them clearly what all he should do. MDF requires a good surface sealing before applying any base coat, else the speakers will sound like a drunkard:)
 
For example, just painting of the X-MTM towers would apparently cost about 8K.

Will update the thread once I get some info.

Thanks Captain for your persistence on this. When we add the material and labour cost along with the painting, the total cost of a 5.1 kit will sky rocket :sad:
 
Thanks Captain for your persistence on this. When we add the material and labour cost along with the painting, the total cost of a 5.1 kit will sky rocket :sad:

Painting is one option. Laminate would cost much less I guess. I have a "Carpainter" who does at reasonable cost. Will check with him as well.
 
Thanks a lot captain, I got kits for me as well as Sachin. Those crossovers are quite heavy duty.
 
Hey guys... Congrats on ur successful groupbuy & import... I would really like to hear the reviews especially from those who have gotten the 5.1 setup... I am contemplating building DIY 5.1 setup with floorstanders... I chked out the X-Statik & X-Voce they sure look like beasts in their pics :) ... I would like to know has anyone ordered these... Also would like to know their approx weight of these kits... My Parents are gonna come back from the US Mid Oct & if possible they could carry these back with them... Also does any one know which AVR these speakers are best suited to? My choices are between the Yamaha 671 or the Onkyo 609 purely for a movie setup... Any feedback would be greatly apprciated :) ...
 
Also has anyone opened the sub woofer kits ? I got my servo sub kit today and It just contained woofer, amp and power cord, it did not cabinet plan or any brochure / user manual etc... neither did it have screws for sub and amp both. I am not sure if kits come with screws as i bought it for first time in my life.. But i was at least expecting it to have contained cabinet plan and user manual.

Please can you guys confirm if you have got anything additional than what my sub woofer kit contained?

Regards,
Naren

See link: http://gr-research.com/pdf/A370PEQ2_quickguide.pdf
 
One quick question - are we going to solder the wires on speaker terminals? I think this is against the philosophy that we need not solder speaker terminals rather use crimped terminals on the end of wires.
Danny, (or anybody) please elaborate?
 
One quick question - are we going to solder the wires on speaker terminals? I think this is against the philosophy that we need not solder speaker terminals rather use crimped terminals on the end of wires.
Danny, (or anybody) please elaborate?

IIRC, I've read in some thread on GRR circle on AC where soldering of wires to drivers and crossovers was talked about. Some speaker builders are against soldering, AP is one such. They say it damages the drivers. If one is not careful, (of not heating up the driver terminal too much) it actually would damage the thin strand of wire that carries the audio signal to the voice coil.

I recently replaced the faulty speaker of my vintage TV and I preferred to solder it.

1.I melted the solder and spread a drop of it quickly on the terminal and removed the excess heat away from it by touching and removing the fingers in quick succession.

2. I applied solder onto the speaker cable and heated it thoroughly to ensure that the solder remains in molten state till I place it on the speaker terminal.

3. Placed the speaker wire on the speaker terminal and then placed the solder wire on that junction and quickly touched the junction to make some more molten solder flow into it and form a good bond.

4. I then removed the excess heat the same way as explained in step one.

The speakers are working fine.:)
 
IIRC, I've read in some thread on GRR circle on AC where soldering of wires to drivers and crossovers was talked about. Some speaker builders are against soldering, AP is one such. They say it damages the drivers. If one is not careful, (of not heating up the driver terminal too much) it actually would damage the thin strand of wire that carries the audio signal to the voice coil.

I recently replaced the faulty speaker of my vintage TV and I preferred to solder it.

1.I melted the solder and spread a drop of it quickly on the terminal and removed the excess heat away from it by touching and removing the fingers in quick succession.

2. I applied solder onto the speaker cable and heated it thoroughly to ensure that the solder remains in molten state till I place it on the speaker terminal.

3. Placed the speaker wire on the speaker terminal and then placed the solder wire on that junction and quickly touched the junction to make some more molten solder flow into it and form a good bond.

4. I then removed the excess heat the same way as explained in step one.

The speakers are working fine.:)
BTW, I do same thing in different way. I touch heavy metal or tweezer to the pin to be soldered at a point between soldering end and main belly of part. That transfers extra heat flowing away from part to that extra metal.

But to the speakers which are made of some paper etc stuff do we solder or not? I am okay to electronics parts, for speakers there are two mindsets. For cheapo stuff I never bothered, here I am little hesitant.
 
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Friends,

Those of you who have bought SW-12-04 + A370PEQ Amp, What kind of enclosures are you planning? a sealed box or a sand filled sealed box?

I think the sealed box will weigh min 32 Kg ( I got the mdf sheet today and weighed approx amount of mdf that will be required for sealed box it will be around 16 kgs, and Dennys kit weighs approx the same weight) and the sand filled will weigh approx 13 kgs extra ( 5 kg of sand and 8 kgs for extra 4 panels needed ) so total weight of 45 kgs!

As per Denny Sand filled box will perform better but then I think it may be difficult to move such a heavy box considering most of us may not have dedicated theater rooms and hence sometimes we may have to move the subs so am a bit confused between these to at the moment :-(

Please can you guys share what you are planning?

Regards,
Naren
 
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