Cabinet Build for Gr-Research X-LS Encore kit

[navin advani]

Sure! I am also interested to see how it differs. Because so far no-rez and tar-bitumin-tar with polyfill made same impact on panel. But No-Rez saved lot of time while working and neat. Now how it reflects into sound quality, that I am curious.

For ported cabinets no-rez makes a lot of sense. It does not rob the speaker of it's dynamics as much.

For those who do not have access to No rez a simple solution is to combine the butyl rubber based damping sheets the car audio guys use (the common product is called Dynamat Extreme but there is a local product called Dampmat that seems to woerk equally well) with 25mm of OPEN CELL foam.

For sealed boxes Dacron (or Reliance Polyfil) is also good just make sure it is loosely filled and not packed tight and the area directly behind the driver is not stuffed.

 

[captrajesh]

It will be very interesting to note diff in sound between the 2 sets if any, 1 with no rez & the other with old pillow stuffing

That naughty grin say it all.

Since the damping components is from used pillow, it will sound laid back.

 

[omishra]

That naughty grin say it all.

Since the damping components is from used pillow, it will sound laid back.

I got it , these pillows were earlier used on sofa in living room. So might absorbed lot of TV music. :lol:

 

[jls001]

... and then proceed towards polish guy.

Just wanted to add that the putty to fill gaps and smoothen joints must be made to dry very well. If possible, use slightly more than strictly required as I find the joints in my cabinets where putty was applied have somehow shrunk and is not looking too good. The putty was allowed to dry completely before it was painted. The shrinkage becomes apparent after painting. So use a bit more (putty) than strictly required.

Of course the above is moot if you are going to use some sort of veneering.

 

[omishra]

Just wanted to add that the putty to fill gaps and smoothen joints must be made to dry very well. If possible, use slightly more than strictly required as I find the joints in my cabinets where putty was applied have somehow shrunk and is not looking too good. The putty was allowed to dry completely before it was painted. The shrinkage becomes apparent after painting. So use a bit more (putty) than strictly required.

Of course the above is moot if you are going to use some sort of veneering.

I am getting veneer pasted from all sides. Then wood polish over that to give dark finish. Joints will be met by carpenters expertise.

 

[denom]

That naughty grin say it all.

Since the damping components is from used pillow, it will sound laid back.

Bro, you know me too well :lol:hyeah:

I got it , these pillows were earlier used on sofa in living room. So might absorbed lot of TV music. :lol:

Just hope they cancel out all the unwanted noise that they have been subjected to in their earlier avatar :lol:

 

[denom]

Just wanted to add that the putty to fill gaps and smoothen joints must be made to dry very well. If possible, use slightly more than strictly required as I find the joints in my cabinets where putty was applied have somehow shrunk and is not looking too good. The putty was allowed to dry completely before it was painted. The shrinkage becomes apparent after painting. So use a bit more (putty) than strictly required.

Of course the above is moot if you are going to use some sort of veneering.

Too much is also not good as the result will show in 'patches'/

Experienced all of this is my past life when was doing 'Body Shop' duties in the automotive sector.

Ideally putty/filler should be avoided as much as possible & used only where absolutely necessary:indifferent14:

 

[captrajesh]

these pillows were earlier used on sofa in living room.

Uh oh, I thought they were your sleeping companions. In that case, they won't sound laid back after all. :lol:

 

[magma]

the putty shrinkage problem comes into play only when painting

also i cant see and screws

Dannys build has suggested to do the bracing and fitting using only glue NO screws
so guys who are following that method wont have the putty shrinkage issue at the screw holes

 

[harsh247]

What is your opinion of a 3m mat(the curly rubber type doormat) dampening?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

 

[omishra]

What is your opinion of a 3m mat(the curly rubber type doormat) dampening?

IMO whatever you paste if that is adding weight and damping then it is good. Even rubber sheet with resin glue could be same effect on panel. Only difference should come from polyfill and no Rez. Even I found bracing added some level of non resonant properties to panel.

 

[omishra]

Update, finishing touches -

Keep tuned.

 

[sachu888]

Hi Om,
They are looking very nice in Veneer.

Regards,
Sachin

 

[captrajesh]

Om, just spoke to Sachin and only then realised that you had affixed veneer. Theyve come out nicely. However, since you were using veneer, you could've rounded off the edges IMO.

 

[omishra]

Om, just spoke to Sachin and only then realised that you had affixed veneer. Theyve come out nicely. However, since you were using veneer, you could've rounded off the edges IMO.

Yes, I missed that V-groove thingy. So this is outcome. But its not that bad either.

 

[Rgn1]

Hi Om,

When you used Veneer (Or Laminate in my case) do you take the thickness of the Veneer layer into account when the countersink for the the tweeter and the terminal cup is drilled? I did not take that into account and went by the supplied measurements in the build plan. I am now wondering if this will cause the tweeter and the cup to be not at the same level as the face of the respective panels.

Cheers!

 

[omishra]

Hi Om,

When you used Veneer (Or Laminate in my case) do you take the thickness of the Veneer layer into account when the countersink for the the tweeter and the terminal cup is drilled? I did not take that into account and went by the supplied measurements in the build plan. I am now wondering if this will cause the tweeter and the cup to be not at the same level as the face of the respective panels.

Cheers!

Yes, It was considered. In my case veneer is 3mm + 0.5mm fevicol. Also putty will makeover 0.5mm, so effectively 3mm at last. This is okay for binding cups but less for tweeters. I carved another 2-3mm to make tweeter inside that countersink. total ~4.5mm depth for tweeter.

More is not a problem as anyway you have to fill driver mounting tape to coverup gap and make airtight fitting. I have purchased that tape for 100Rs which is 20mm wide and 2mm thick. It could be compressed further to 1/3 thickness.

 

[Rgn1]

Yes, It was considered. In my case veneer is 3mm + 0.5mm fevicol. Also putty will makeover 0.5mm, so effectively 3mm at last. This is okay for binding cups but less for tweeters. I carved another 2-3mm to make tweeter inside that countersink. total ~4.5mm depth for tweeter.

More is not a problem as anyway you have to fill driver mounting tape to coverup gap and make airtight fitting. I have purchased that tape for 100Rs which is 20mm wide and 2mm thick. It could be compressed further to 1/3 thickness.

Thanks! I need to buy the driver mounting tape. I can use layers of the tape to adjust the depth of the countersink. Could you please let me know where it is available?

Cheers!

 

[omishra]

Thanks! I need to buy the driver mounting tape. I can use layers of the tape to adjust the depth of the countersink. Could you please let me know where it is available?

Cheers!

Look at this, you should get at other end of electronics market on SP road. Or few shops towards SJP road side too beside KR market flyover.

 

[omishra]

Now boxes are ready and I am assembling my cross over for Sonicap upgrade. Sachin's box will be done next. I am planning refill of polywool after cleaning it again.

All boxes are same colored - mat finish only camera flash made some difference in color.