diy center channel kit based on M130 midbass

acoustics

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hi everybody

today i have bought an excellent center channel kit based on the M130 midbass that gr-research uses but in india i got this as M13NH from peerless
This woofer has become extremly popular these days. The best thing about the kit is a very nice crossover which has been designed and built very professionally and uses very high quality Audio grade capacitors from the Indian Brand called CTR
more info about ctr : Plastic Film Capacitors, Plastic Film Capacitors Manufacturer, Capacitor Manufacturers India, Capacitors, Plastic Film
The person from whom the kit has been bought told me that these caps are customized specially for audio use.
the tweeter is also from peerless
Cost of the kit 5500 INR (parts only enclosure not included)
the enclosure plans are with the carpenter , hope the center channel comes out good and sounds awsome as i have heard a lot about this midbass 1 (300 x 225).jpg

2 (449 x 337).jpg

3 (449 x 337).jpg
 
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looks nice. Where did you buy the kit. I am aso looking for peerless drivers 8 inch diameter for my floorstanders
 
I bought this from New Delhi itself , there are more options avaliable with other peerless drivers like sko130 and a titanium driver , if you need a 8 inch driver you can ask the guy to provide you with the drivers and the crossover
 
AFAIK the M130 and M13NH are not same drivers, though are of the common origin and share some similarities. M130 comes in 8 ohm and 16 ohm flavors but M13NH is a 4 ohm driver. Their responses are also not the same as you can see from this post.

http://www.hifivision.com/diy/16612-my-mtm-stand-mount-loudspeakers-2.html#post230058

Consider modifying the title of your thread as this kit is based on M13NH which is not a GR-Research model.
 
Hi Antony
I know that these are not same but they have the same motor system same frame and a same suspension as well as a same quality paper cone the impedance is just the difference.
B4 buying this kit I spoke to a very responsible person at peerless who himself confirmed that these drivers are very much similar and if implemented correctly excellent results can be achieved.
As seen from the curves of both of the drivers the gr version has a bit more smoother at the higher end and the peerless version is very much the same up to 2khz.Now my crossover has a 2khz crossover point and the tweeter to which this midbass has been matched has a cleaner lower end so both of then blend very nicely.
Now speaking of the bit of difference at the upper end for both of these drivers not all us have at least I don't have an ear that can feel the difference of 3 to 4db in the frequency band from 2k to 5 k
Also its all about implementation and the listening enviornment.Not all of us have the same listening environments, I know a lot of people who spent lacs on their speakers and days auditioning them and ended up saying these don't sound the same as they did in the showroom.

To sum everything up these midbass really rock
And I don't care if these are called M13 or M130 cos 13cms are = 130 mm's :)
 
As seen from the curves of both of the drivers the gr version has a bit more smoother at the higher end and the peerless version is very much the same up to 2khz.Now my crossover has a 2khz crossover point and the tweeter to which this midbass has been matched has a cleaner lower end so both of then blend very nicely.
I dont see a resistor in the xo. usually thats not the case. do you have the xo diagram by any chance.
Now speaking of the bit of difference at the upper end for both of these drivers not all us have at least I don't have an ear that can feel the difference of 3 to 4db in the frequency band from 2k to 5 k
thats simply incorrect. between 1-5k, the ear is the most sensitive, it seems most of the people will be able to tell a 1db difference in this range. even an 80 year old semi deaf person will be able to tell the difference of 3-4 db. 3 db is not a joke, you need to double the power to get 3 db, its the difference that a 50w amp and 100w amp makes. 6db is perceived as 'twice as loud'.
but since you are crossing over at 2k, the tweet also comes into play. you need to take the system graph to see if their is a dip in this range.

Also its all about implementation and the listening enviornment.Not all of us have the same listening environments, I know a lot of people who spent lacs on their speakers and days auditioning them and ended up saying these don't sound the same as they did in the showroom.

To sum everything up these midbass really rock
And I don't care if these are called M13 or M130 cos 13cms are = 130 mm's :)

You can get 130mm for 2$ also and 200$ also, so you cant say 130mm is 130 mm.
 
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Dear doors
This system sounds awsome
There is a metal oxide resistor sandwiched in between the inductor and the caps of the tweeter section and because its hidden it can't be seen in the pic
Secondly there's no relevance in debating the 3 k and 4k frequencies as the crossover point is 2khz .
Third if this midbass version suffers a bit in the higher band it also is a bit better than the gr version in the lower band and this can be seen in the plots.
I don't say this is the best design in the world but I believe its value for money
U are right that there are 2$ and 200$ versions of same sized speakers but its also a fact that good implements of cheaper speakers sound better than bad implements of expensive ones
Peerless India no doubt makes some really good drivers and other drivers like sko130 and lr10dt are excellent examples
 
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Hi Accoustics
Have you finished this center channel project? If so could you post a few pics and throw some light on what you used to dampen the cabinet? I'll be starting on a center channel project soon and any info in this regard will be helpfull. I've read in the forum of tar sheets (used for water proofing roofing sheets) of 3-4mm used. I'm looking at different alternatives if any.
Thanks
 
Hi Gijo,

You may want to get in touch with GeorgeO who's used something similar to the branded 'Bison board' often quoted in the US audio forums. The Indian name slips my mind, sorry.

I remember them as cement based 5mm sheets, easy to work with. You cut them to the panel size and just glue them on.

My experience is with 'tar' sheets which I've found incredibly flexible. You keep adding layers to get the level of damping required. Easy, cheap and damn effective. Did I mention cheap...:)

regards,
sunil
 
Thanks Sunil. I think I'll try Bitumen pads (I reckon that's what they're called) this time. Since the project is for a center channel I guess using the above sheets should be fine. Have you used the normal bitumen sheets that you get in hardware stores (used to water proof roofing sheets). I've seen Bitumen pads suggested in the Troelsgravesen site.
Cabinet-damping

Do you have any idea of specialized bitumen pads for speaker cabinets?

Thanks
Gijo
 
Gijo, you're welcome. The sheets available here look something similar to the pointer at Troel's site. They don't look so neat though and does not affect their performance.

The edges are not finished well. What I do is leave 2-3cm all around the bitumen sheet and use the rest.

I had added some info here.

I've got photos somewhere, let me see if I can dig those up. Its 'Santa' season so we'll have to wait till I get back to Blr.

Regards.
 
The email id is right, but Mr. Khanna appears to be very irregular with his mail. You will get a reply ...in sometime...:eek:hyeah:
 
A beautiful, well-constructed speaker with class-leading soundstage, imaging and bass that is fast, deep, and precise.
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