New Audio-Technica AT-LP120 does not work !!!

Hi
I just got the same issue. Go the turntale. The main fuse was the Problem so I've changed it. First it worked just fine. But after a while it just stopped working. The unit was really hot. I checked and the transformator was the problem (i am guessing). Did you got to repair yours? I am not willig to just get rid ofit and rhe technical Service is gonna be really expensive. If you have any information please contact me ASAP. I would really appreciate that!

Sorry for the delay in me replying. I did manage to fix the over heating transformer issue. I’m my case the voltage regulator on the main board that is mounted on its own heat sink was faulty. I tested them both and the one labled 7812 was the faulty one for me. I replaced it and the turntable functions correctly.

It sounds like you have blown the thermal fuse in your transformer so you will either need to have the fuse replaced or you will need a new transformer before you can even look into changing voltage regulators. I got a new transformer sent from Germany for around 45 euros.
 
Sorry for the delay in me replying. I did manage to fix the over heating transformer issue. I’m my case the voltage regulator on the main board that is mounted on its own heat sink was faulty. I tested them both and the one labled 7812 was the faulty one for me. I replaced it and the turntable functions correctly.

It sounds like you have blown the thermal fuse in your transformer so you will either need to have the fuse replaced or you will need a new transformer before you can even look into changing voltage regulators. I got a new transformer sent from Germany for around 45 euros.

Thank you for your reply. I did get a new transformer and replace it. Now it is working again. But it is still getting really really hot. I am worried that I am going to blow something else if I can keep using it. I do not understand this bit from your reply: "I did manage to fix the overheating transformer issue. I’m my case the voltage regulator on the main board that is mounted on its own heat sink was faulty." Could you please explain to me a little bit more? Do you mean the two black regulators from the last photo (not on the main board)?
Thank you for your help!
Edit:
And one more question: Where did you found the voltage regulator? I just found some on Ebay (BA12T), are those the right ones?
 

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Hi, I'm from Brazil and I make minor repairs on analog equipment.
I received this Toca discs as part of a payment. I really want to fix it for myself. The initial problem would be the fuses, but after the change even then the motor rotation was wrong.
The BA6868FM CI was replaced and the disk player spun again, but it worked for a few minutes and stopped. I noticed a lot of heating on the 7818 regulator, and when the equipment is turned on, the pilot light is very weak, and the engine is trying to turn, as if it were locked. But if I take out the double blue AC cord, it will again get the strong light immediately. + - 25vac
I will do a more complete analysis of the voltages according to the scheme and I will update you any improvement in the equipment.
Best Regards,
Halisson

Edit:
I made up my mind. After downloading again BA6868FM, replace IC104,105 and IC106 (overheating and they were already resoldados many times, I put the 3 new ICs), turn perfectly!
Before replacing the IC, two broken fuses. The initial motif was connected to the 220vac voltage and selected 110vac.

Greetings,


Halisson
 

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Hello. I'm experiencing the same things. I got the LP-60 from Amazon US(115v). And I'm from Malaysia(230v). Being the electrical/voltage dumb-dumb that I am, I connected it to power source and it works for 5 seconds and shut down. I try contacting the SEA region's technical team and they still dont really provide that much help. Is the transformer is the kind that you find at electrical store or is it like specific from AT? Again, I don't know much about this things. I just know that it dont spins.
 
hello,

Im having the same problem. It turns on but its just not spinning. I called Audio Technica Customer Support, and their technicians told me that it could be just the tact switch. (He said all the lights are on, so it doesnt seem to be a motor problem. He also said that if I can have anyone who knows how to solder, that may be all i need). I m a little skeptical about buying a replacement part without knowing for sure what the problem is. Can you guys help me out? I know nothing about electronics, but my boyfriend might know some.. what should i check and how should i check it?

I would send it to AT if I can, and there is also a local shop that may fix it, but Im seeing if I can save money or time.

All help will be appreciated.
 
This whole thing pisses me off somewhat. I bought a new house in July 2017 and havent hooked my platter up until today. Lights up, doesnt spin. Found this thread and many others with similar issues, so its clearly a problem in design.

Fortunately, I remembered I purchased the extended warranty at best buy so I'll be taking it back tomorrow (it expires Jan 6 2019...)

I took one of these back already within a month of buying for a different issue. Not a fan of this machine.
 
Nevermind, the fuse is on the top side of the central PCB which has the motor on it. The surface-mount fuse itself is behind where the 2-wire blue power connector from the transformer connects to the board. It's 1.5A rated. If you're brave you can just solder a jumper in instead, or use a solder-bridge.

Not particularly difficult to desolder & remove, the hardest part is getting the board off to work on as there's a fair few screws & cables to come off it. Really best to replace it properly however, although surface-mount components tend to be hard to come by in anything less than packs of 10 or so.

Pleased that a few cents of parts and a couple of hours of time was all that was needed to fix it rather than lots of money for a service agent!

HOWTO:

Before starting - remove; The cartridge. The platter. The balance weight. The SP adapter. The hinges from the lid.

Ensure the voltage selector is set correctly (230V and not 115V), that the power switch is turned OFF and that the power cable is definitely not plugged in.

Take the lid off & lay it on a table top-down and rest the main unit on the lid.

Remove the screws from the back, there are 8 screws total, each screw has a small brass spacer on the bottom of it which will almost certainly fall into the case when you remove the back, be VERY sure you retrieve them all!

Once the screws are removed, put the unit onto its feet and life the top off from the front as the USB & phono\line switch protrude through the case. You will also need to feed the RCA cables up through the hole as you lift it off.

Put the back\base aside, and rest the unit back onto the lid.

The main fuse is easily visible on a small circuit board by the main transformer. Mine had a rubber sleeve over it which lifts off, then you can remove the fuse by either hooking a fingernail under it, or gently prying it out from the sides with a small screwdriver. Don't lever against the glass part of the fuse!

If it is blown, you will probably be able to easily see a break in the wire inside it and/or burn marks inside the glass. You can also check with a multimeter that there is no continuity (infinite resistance) between the 2 metal caps.

Replace the fuse with another 240V or 250V 500mA slow-blow fuse. If you replace it with a fast-blow fuse then it'll probably blow every time you have a small power spike. Refit the rubber protective sleeve.

Put the turntable back onto the base, being careful with the RCA cables and feeding in the USB & phono/line switch, plug it in and power it on. If you get lights then you're in business. Put the platter onto the spindle and press "Start". If it spins then you are lucky and you have ONLY blown the primary fuse and can now reassemble the turntable!

Take the platter back off or it'll fall off during assembly.

The only parts to pay attention to while reassembling is that you may have to have the unit on its side while putting the base screws back in due to the little brass sleeves on them trying to fall off, tweezers can make this a little easier.

If the motor isn't working at this stage, then you've probably blown the secondary fuse on the central circuit board. Any wires that can be unplugged from it will need to be, you need to undo all the screws on the metal plate underneath where the platter sits - NOTE: Support the central board while doing this as it's fairly heavy and will fall off and may damage things further otherwise.

Once you have the board off, look on the spindle-side of it opposite where the 2 wire connector goes in and you should clearly see a labelled fuse, if you check it with a multimeter or continuity tester, you should get no signal which means the fuse has popped and will need to be replaced or bypassed. Do this as you wish then reassemble being careful to re-route the cables correctly.

All in all, not a particularly difficult job, just time consuming, and of course, given that you are dealing with mains voltage, if you're not confident with this, take it to either a proper AT repair agent or anyone certified to fix electronic audio devices.

Enjoy!
This is awesome and very helpful! The secondary fuse is not that easy to replace but it is easy to bypass it if you have a soldering iron. The here denominated central circuit board is called "motor board" on the documentation posted below. It is the drawing 11. You need to unscrew two screws on the bottomside of the board (facing the floor on normal turntable operation) and the four central-ish screws from the top side of the turntable (top side during normal turntable operation). I hope that helps because it was the thing I have been struggling a bit with.

Well, I tried to bypass the fuse and as other folks report, smoke came out of another spot on the motor board. I guess the fuse has a further function than just conducting the current. I guess I give up at this point. If only the primary fuse is blown, that one is relatively easy to solve. But if the secondary fuse is blown as well (the lights go up but the motor does not spin), then I cannot say how to replace that micro-fuse. Overbridging it didnt work for me. Since I am not skilled at soldering, maybe I overheated some of the neighboring diodes and killed them, leading to the current-overload further down the circuit and the subsequent smoke.
 
I have the same problem. Replaced glass fuse and bridged the other.
Lights work but no spin.

Anyone know where I can get a replacement transformer ?
 
I have been having this issue on and off as well. Pulled apart the turntable and tested the main fuse - was fine. Checked all connections to PC boards. No evidence of problems. Put it all back together and it seems to be working fine for now. Where is the second fuse mentioned located?
 
Same deal here, platter won’t spin. Bypassed smd fuse. It spun for 5 sec then lost power and smoke.
Replaced power fuse again, and fuse blew again.
At LP120 is in excellent condition otherwise.
 
Same deal here, platter won’t spin. Bypassed smd fuse. It spun for 5 sec then lost power and smoke.
Replaced power fuse again, and fuse blew again.
At LP120 is in excellent condition otherwise.
check the other components also
 
Same deal here, platter won’t spin. Bypassed smd fuse. It spun for 5 sec then lost power and smoke.
Replaced power fuse again, and fuse blew again.
At LP120 is in excellent condition otherwise.
if you are facing repeated fuse blow out, then check if power rating (under the platter) is set of 120 V.
Also check if any other circuit is short !
 
Well, I guess I will add that I am the latest with this issue. I last used my ATLP120 about a year ago. It hasn't been moved at all. I turn it on....everything lights up fine. So...I pull the bottom cover off...and the first fuse seems to be fine. Now I'm debating if I have the guts to remove/check the transformer....or go on a witch hunt for this 'k' fuse (which i believe to be on the top side of the board under the platter).

Before I start this...does anyone know of an actual repair shop in the Toronto, Ontario area that fixes these? It seems incredible to me that such an expensive record player leaves you to a DIY solution. I'm happy to take a call from anyone who wants to walk me through it. I have a multimeter (but have no idea how to use it). My number is 4.1.6.9.0.4.5.3.4.5.
 
Just an FYI for those following. Apparently I've come across people that tell me the 'start/stop' micro switch can intermittently fail. When pressed...it's supposed to sound/feel an audible click. Just thought I'd let others know. I'm going to go troubleshoot it; will report back if I have a eureka moment.
 
Okay, eureka! All my fuses were fine....it was the start/stop button. Apparently not using it for a while makes the button not ‘click’ when pressed. Pressing it up and down about 50 times did the trick. It’s all good again, listening to Pearl Jam on vinyl again.
 
Okay, eureka! All my fuses were fine....it was the start/stop button. Apparently not using it for a while makes the button not ‘click’ when pressed. Pressing it up and down about 50 times did the trick. It’s all good again, listening to Pearl Jam on vinyl again.
Mine just stopped.... While playing Pearl Jam "No Jeremy"..haha... It literally stopped in the middle of the song.. Has power and lights, hitting power button numerous times doesn't work ( has sound/feel an audible click). Took underside off to check first fuse.. fuse looks fine. Any photos around of the fuse that needs to be bypassed?

Thanks in a advance..

What a pain.....
 
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