Willsenton R8 - Much needed Glow in Life

amrutmhatre90

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Just when I decided I am done with my stereo setup I ended up buying a Willsenton R8!

To give some background, few months back I wanted a All in one unit to go with my Lintons which were paired with Audiolab 6000a.

I just wanted to see what would more power do to my Lintons, (I absolutely love them) I replaced 6000a with 7000a, I was happy the way they opened up. It was not a night and day difference but a good one.

Fast forward to week back, I got a nice deal on Willsenton R8 and I went for it. This was on my list since long and wanted to own them, I have seen what kind magic @yogibear does with Tubes. But wanted to try R8 before going SET.

There were not much reviews or ownership experiences on our forum, so decided to pin one.

Bought it in stock form, I know people will say stock tubes are schiit, but I needed a benchmark or how big differences does tube rolling make. I am new to tube world you see.
IMG_3150_jpg.jpeg
This thing is heavy, very heavy as most of the weight is in those massive transformers and its difficult to lift due to uneven weight distribution.
Comes with a nice cover to protect the tubes.

Since 7000a as a pre is neutral’s as it can be with an excellent dac and phono, I use Audiolab 7000a as a Pre most of the time, and the Pre In on R8 just disconnects the volume pot I assume and not the pre amp section.

So chain tested are,
1) WiiM pro / Mini PC > Audiolab 7000a via Usb or Coax > R8 > Lintons
2) WiiM Pro > E30 > R8 > Linton

First listening impressions were meh, hard edges and not smooth like what was I expecting. But heard these need 50-100 hours burn in to sound best. While posting this thread, I am at 20hr mark and I can already see this getting better day by day.

Running with Audiolab as Pre makes this sound tighter and refined, bass control is better. I love to hear this in Triode mode than the Ultra Linear mode, there is nice separation, smoothness to the sound which makes it enjoyable and you crank the volume higher and higher without getting hearing fatigue. Ultra Linear mode on other hand is right in face, too forward for my liking, though the bass is better / harder, it feels too much for me at least.
With Triode mode the singer and instrument separation with depth is really good, while switching between both Triode and Ultra Linear mode its easy to pick out which is which.

Some might think this will be too warm with Lintons, Warm speakers + Warm Amp is a no no mostly.
Not with this pairing, this is exactly the sound what I was looking for, smooth, musical with good bass control and nicely detailed. Matter of taste maybe.

Waiting how this will sound after 100-200 hours of use, then maybe think of tube rolling.

IMG_3148.jpeg
 
Hi @yogibear they use their own make Willsenton that is what I think, I am using KT88 variant one.

Some Specs:
Rated output power:
25W+25W (RMS triode working state) (KT88, 6550EH or EL34)
45W+45W (RMS ultra-linear working state) (KT88, 6550EH)
40W+40W (RMS ultra-linear working state) (EL34)
Preamp stage power supply filtering Tube: 6SN7*1
Voltage amplifier stage Tube: 6SL7*2
Driver stage Tube: 6SN7*2
Power vacuum tube: KT88*4 or 6550EH*4 or EL34*4 (only 1 kind of power tube come, you need to choose)

Right tube amps are never warm sounding and the non-believers use this term to “brand” them as un-resolving and lacking details.
You are absolutely right.

Rather, they sound just right, linear from top to down to bottom. Details, soundstage, imaging, all are given. And the magic is never about watts. The first very watt tells you everything and is fully capable of moving the largest, multi-way speakers despite their sensitivity.

Sounds too good to be true ??? Try one and experience yourself.
I am going to experience them and you will be my go to person, will be giving you a call soon.
 
Just when I decided I am done with my stereo setup I ended up buying a Willsenton R8!

To give some background, few months back I wanted a All in one unit to go with my Lintons which were paired with Audiolab 6000a.

I just wanted to see what would more power do to my Lintons, (I absolutely love them) I replaced 6000a with 7000a, I was happy the way they opened up. It was not a night and day difference but a good one.

Fast forward to week back, I got a nice deal on Willsenton R8 and I went for it. This was on my list since long and wanted to own them, I have seen what kind magic @yogibear does with Tubes. But wanted to try R8 before going SET.

There were not much reviews or ownership experiences on our forum, so decided to pin one.

Bought it in stock form, I know people will say stock tubes are schiit, but I needed a benchmark or how big differences does tube rolling make. I am new to tube world you see.
View attachment 77670
This thing is heavy, very heavy as most of the weight is in those massive transformers and its difficult to lift due to uneven weight distribution.
Comes with a nice cover to protect the tubes.

Since 7000a as a pre is neutral’s as it can be with an excellent dac and phono, I use Audiolab 7000a as a Pre most of the time, and the Pre In on R8 just disconnects the volume pot I assume and not the pre amp section.

So chain tested are,
1) WiiM pro / Mini PC > Audiolab 7000a via Usb or Coax > R8 > Lintons
2) WiiM Pro > E30 > R8 > Linton

First listening impressions were meh, hard edges and not smooth like what was I expecting. But heard these need 50-100 hours burn in to sound best. While posting this thread, I am at 20hr mark and I can already see this getting better day by day.

Running with Audiolab as Pre makes this sound tighter and refined, bass control is better. I love to hear this in Triode mode than the Ultra Linear mode, there is nice separation, smoothness to the sound which makes it enjoyable and you crank the volume higher and higher without getting hearing fatigue. Ultra Linear mode on other hand is right in face, too forward for my liking, though the bass is better / harder, it feels too much for me at least.
With Triode mode the singer and instrument separation with depth is really good, while switching between both Triode and Ultra Linear mode its easy to pick out which is which.

Some might think this will be too warm with Lintons, Warm speakers + Warm Amp is a no no mostly.
Not with this pairing, this is exactly the sound what I was looking for, smooth, musical with good bass control and nicely detailed. Matter of taste maybe.

Waiting how this will sound after 100-200 hours of use, then maybe think of tube rolling.

View attachment 77669

Congrats Amrut on the r8, the vibe the lighting brings to your setup is droolworthy :)
 
That is a great amp and speaker combo, even without burn-in. I got the same this month and was using it with my Lintons. Just that one of my KT88 power tubes acted up after a couple of days. Seller is helping replace that.
 
Try EL34, Sovtek or Svetlana, winged C or if it accepts, the coke bottle 6L6 Sylvania or RCA or similar.
Sure, after few months will be upgrading, Thanks for suggestions

Great move, @amrutmhatre90 !
I’ve paired my Lintons with a tube amp, as well; for some reason, they seem to make a terrific combo.
And, as I’m sure you already know, you’re in safe hands with @yogibear to guide you with tube rolling.
Happy listening!

PS: awesome pix :)
Thank you sir, you are absolutely right.

Congrats Amrut on the r8, the vibe the lighting brings to your setup is droolworthy :)
Thank you sir, I do wish the Tubes had slightly more glow to them.

Will we ever "be done" with our stereo setup ? LoL !!
Enjoy your new gadget and keep posting the impressions !!
So true!
Enjoying the break-in period.

That is a great amp and speaker combo, even without burn-in. I got the same this month and was using it with my Lintons. Just that one of my KT88 power tubes acted up after a couple of days. Seller is helping replace that.
Awesome, darn the tube got kaput.
How one knows it is not working ? Congrats on your setup too.
 
Awesome, darn the tube got kaput.
How one knows it is not working ? Congrats on your setup too.
Thanks! The tube just stopped turning on. The first day, after changing the position, it would work, but now that one tube stopped working in any slot..so just waiting for the replacement to arrive for now. Am also thinking of going with Sylvania EL34 and PSVane KT88 for future upgrades.
 
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Excuse me for joining late in this discussion.

I have used a 300B tube amplifier for over 7+ years and IME they are very very average sounding no matter how much you try to do tube rolling or change capacitors or resistors to exotic ones. Only change that would probably work is a WE 300B and a Audionote or Tango OPT. That would be out of reach for lot of us.

300b could sound ok if a AC heating is used instead of DC heating and if it's a 2 stage design. Most of the dry sounding of this tube is because of the DC heating. I have couple of AC heating schematic for the 300B but am not finding the right motivation to built for 3 reasons,
- I already have am amplifier and not looking for one myself
- I don't have an inquiry to built one
- I don't have space to built and stock them at home either
So the entire kit is in my attic gathering dust.

YMMV.
 
@amrutmhatre90 So, What are your impressions after burn in?

loving it, its smooth and nice highs and I love the way it sounds are low volume. Lots and lots of low end grunt.
Late night listening's are a bliss.

Infact I sold my Audiolab 7000a due to the R8, most of my music listening is done on the R8 now.
7000a was just getting used for TV viewing and it was injustice.

I added a SMSL VMV A1 for casual listening and TV use. Adobe_20231018_192139.jpg
 
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loving it, its smooth and nice highs and I love the way it sounds are low volume. Lots and lots of low end grunt.
Late night listening's are a bliss.

Infact I sold my Audiolab 7000a due to the R8, most of my music listening is done on the R8 now.
7000a was just getting used for TV viewing and it was injustice.

I added a SMSL VMV A1 for casual listening and TV use. View attachment 80899
Did you replace the tubes? Why I'm asking is that I have a tube amp, Cadence VA1 with JJ El34 tube. It is a Push Pull with some kind of automatic bias adjustment. Somehow I find listening more pleasureable on my dirt cheap allo class D. I paid a lot for that amp and now I'm thinking if anything can be done by replacing the valves. I have already tried replacing that with golden lion KT77 which gives a bit more HF, but still not the clarity as the allo. As per your earlier post it seems that you were going to replace the tubes. Did you? and Did you find a big difference?
 
Did you replace the tubes? Why I'm asking is that I have a tube amp, Cadence VA1 with JJ El34 tube. It is a Push Pull with some kind of automatic bias adjustment. Somehow I find listening more pleasureable on my dirt cheap allo class D. I paid a lot for that amp and now I'm thinking if anything can be done by replacing the valves. I have already tried replacing that with golden lion KT77 which gives a bit more HF, but still not the clarity as the allo. As per your earlier post it seems that you were going to replace the tubes. Did you? and Did you find a big difference?
Hi...good evening :)

I would suggest to hunt a manual for the amp and check out the biasing scheme thoroughly. The biasing pots also drift over time and will need replacement once in a while. My KT88 / EL34 manual bias amps are of the manual bias type. And previously, once I set the bias, it used to stay near abouts for around 6 months. Then last year the drift was more frequent. So I had sent them to chennai for a routine service, and indeed the bias pots were the culprit and promptly replaced. Hence. my suggestion to check out the biasing arrangement in your particular amp too. All the best :)
 
Did you replace the tubes? Why I'm asking is that I have a tube amp, Cadence VA1 with JJ El34 tube. It is a Push Pull with some kind of automatic bias adjustment. Somehow I find listening more pleasureable on my dirt cheap allo class D. I paid a lot for that amp and now I'm thinking if anything can be done by replacing the valves. I have already tried replacing that with golden lion KT77 which gives a bit more HF, but still not the clarity as the allo. As per your earlier post it seems that you were going to replace the tubes. Did you? and Did you find a big difference?
Hi...good evening :)

I would suggest to hunt a manual for the amp and check out the biasing scheme thoroughly. The biasing pots also drift over time and will need replacement once in a while. My KT88 / EL34 manual bias amps are of the manual bias type. And previously, once I set the bias, it used to stay near abouts for around 6 months. Then last year the drift was more frequent. So I had sent them to chennai for a routine service, and indeed the bias pots were the culprit and promptly replaced. Hence. my suggestion to check out the biasing arrangement in your particular amp too. All the best :)
 
Hi...good evening :)

I would suggest to hunt a manual for the amp and check out the biasing scheme thoroughly. The biasing pots also drift over time and will need replacement once in a while. My KT88 / EL34 manual bias amps are of the manual bias type. And previously, once I set the bias, it used to stay near abouts for around 6 months. Then last year the drift was more frequent. So I had sent them to chennai for a routine service, and indeed the bias pots were the culprit and promptly replaced. Hence. my suggestion to check out the biasing arrangement in your particular amp too. All the best :)
Thanks Manohar Ji. Mine has automatic bias thingy. Don't know how it works. One of these days I'm going to open it and take help from Yogi to make it sound better. Worst case, I can still use the chasis and the valve sockets, etc. The wiring inside is attrocious. I don't think it contributes to degradation, but still it will be good if it looks neat inside. Never got my hands dirty with tubes. Good thing to try out in old age. The AMP is anyhow out of production and if I'm successful, it could help other va1 owners to resurrect their amps. Right now the tubes are just gathering dust
1697645829122.png
 
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Thanks Manohar Ji. Mine has automatic bias thingy. Don't know how it works. One of these days I'm going to open it and take help from Yogi to make it sound better. Worst case, I can still use the chasis and the valve sockets, etc. The wiring inside is attrocious. I don't think it contributes to degradation, but still it will be good if it looks neat inside. Never got my hands dirty with tubes. Good thing to try out in old age. The AMP is anyhow out of production and if I'm successful, it could help other va1 owners to resurrect their amps. Right now the tubes are just gathering dust
View attachment 80902
Most welcome sir :)

Should make for a nice weekend project. And with your electrical knowledge, a breeze too :)

Nice stash of tubes. And a simple thing to try before opening the amp up, is to try Deoxit in the tube sockets and then place and remove the tubes a few times. Sometimes oxidation and dirt gets into the tube socket and around the tube pins, and leads to sound degradation and hum in extreme cases.
 
Santa came in early this year, got me tubes from thetubestore
Mullard el34
Tungsol 6sn7 and 6sl7

R8 is sounding smooth and refined out of the box without burn in. The midrange and vocals are much more enjoyable now.
Ofcourse the crazy low end bass from KT88 is missing but this upgrade has made R8 much more enjoyable.

A recent picture of my setup, wouldn't want to change an inch now.
IMG_0523.jpg
 
The Marantz PM7000N offers big, spacious and insightful sound, class-leading clarity and a solid streaming platform in a award winning package.
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