DIY audiophile rack

[suri]

I use Isonodes and Vibrapods for my equipment. I have a feeling that cork would also work to some extent.
-------------

I would be concerned about the stability of the above spring design. It would swing too much and topple the equipment at the top. The shelf hanging via springs from a stable frame would be better. I think you are going a bit too far with the springs, the shelf platforms in the rack should be allowed to move just a bit and not really swing. Check out the kind of movement allowed in spring loaded treadmills.

Thanks,
Sharad

Hi Sharad,
look at post no 37 on page 4 of the thread
cheers
suri

 

[smedhavi]

Yes Suri, I saw that. That seems to be the best way for using springs if they have to be used.

Thanks,
Sharad

 

[suri]

Interesting. I wonder if metallic springs will ring at higher frequencies. Do take a close-up shot of the actual spring assembly between the shelves if possible.

Hi Shahrukh,

here are the pictures of the spring assembly between the shelves

 

[Asit]

Hi the DIY gurus,

I need some help. Right now I have a huge cabinet (mostly made of solid teak wood) where I keep my audio gear along with a DVDP and also 37" LCD TV.
Because of lack of space, of late I have been facing difficulty to accomodate all my stuff.

I am not at all gifted as you people are with the DIY stuff. So I have decided to get a shelf made by a carpenter, but I need some help from you guys.

Initially what I have decided is the following:

1. It will all be made of solid teak wood.

2. It will have 5 shelves and 4 corner legs running all the way from the top to the bottom. It will be open from all 4 sides.

3. Each shelf will have the size 24"x20" and will be 1" thick.

4. The cross-section of each corner leg will be a square of 1.75" sides.

5. The 5 shelves will allow for 4 gaps between them. The bottom-most gap, i.e., the gap between the bottom shelf and the next one will be 12" and one of the other three gaps will be 12" as well. The other 2 gaps will be each 8". On top the turntable will be kept.

6. Distance from the floor level to the bottom of the first shelf would be 4" to enable us to clean the floor underneath regularly.

7. The above means that the total height of the rack would be 49" (=12"+12"+8"+8"+4"+5x1").

8. The shelves will be rigidly fixed to the corner legs and should be made to hold at least 30kg each. I will not be able to manage all the fancy stuff being discussed here. Sorry folks to be so naive in a thread like this. But I have been successful with heavy structures before, and that is primarily the idea here to build something solid and heavy.

9. The 4 resting feet should have some solid metal cones (spikes) or something. This is where I am most confused. Where do I find these cones? Can anybody suggest what sort of stores may keep these? My carpenter was suggesting some metal feet with a bit of rubber in between two metal pieces, and his argument is that it is difficult to get absolutely flat floor surface, so if we want to ensure no vibrations at all, the rack has to seat firmly on the floor and the rubber will help in that.

With his best polish, the carpenter has quoted a price of Rs 8500-9000.

What do you guys think. I especially need your input on the point 9 above, and perhaps also point 8. In general I am looking any help from experts like you and whether you like the general idea I have presented above.

 

[anm]

Will springs not add to more vibrations, rather than dampening them? The springs will get lot of shaking at low frequency.

regards
Anant

Hi Shahrukh,

here are the pictures of the spring assembly between the shelves

 

[dichkaun]

Asit where are you located?
I am looking to get something similar made. Perhaps we can get together and compare notes?

~dich

 

[anm]

Hi,
May be you can look at this - DIY: HiFi racks, tables, stands, isolation platforms
This talks about a sand based isolation platform as well.
regards

 

[Asit]

Asit where are you located?
I am looking to get something similar made. Perhaps we can get together and compare notes?

~dich

Hi dich,

I am located in Kolkata, far away from you. But in Bangalore, there should not be any problems. There is a guy called Murthy who makes these racks with custom designs. I think Prithvi of Absolute Phase has some knowledge about this guy, if I am not totally mistaken. Also square_wave got his rack made by Murthy. I have seen the pictures of Square_wave's rack and it is very good and the cost is very reasonable.

Alternatively what you can do is: you can discuss the design here in this forum and see what the experts say here and then take it to your carpenter and get them done.

 

[dinyaar]

Hi Asit,
What u are proposing to get made is what i had made 10 years ago and am still using it. I dont scoff at all the audiophile mumbo jumbo regarding racks and will someday make an ' audiophile' rack but IMO a solid teak wood rack is a good base for your system to perform. I dont like glass near my HIFI though a wood/glass combo looks elegant.

My rack is not as high as you are intending. 30 Kgs load per shelf is not a problem if the rack is made well and even collective load is a non issue if u use thick teak vertical sections. ( mine are 2 inches thick X 4 inches)

For the bottom i had "SOLID STEEL CONES" made which are welded onto a 4 X 2 steel plate (same size of my vertical supports) and the plate is screwed onto the base of the vertical sections. This is easily done and i just blunted the points a bit to preserve the marble floor.

I also tried using thick PVC pipes at the rear as cable management but finally got fed up with the constant swapping of ICS and just removed all that. I do have hooks on one side at the rear and all the power cords are routed together and go to the wall outlets. The long hooks ensure the power cords stay away from ICS and speaker cables.

I too have my base shelf about 4 inches above the ground for obvious house keeping reasons plus the need to accomodate a power strip in case i choose one. Long power cords were visible under the rack from a distance and hence i went and got a 3 inch teak "moulding patti" and affixed it to the bottom shelf. Now the cluster of wires is not visible too.

The entire rack was polished by me (not too well though) but after many modifications to it with constant change of components it started looking patchy and i finally just spray painted it satin black.

Basically this rack of yours will work well.

Rgds

PS ; U can see my rack on page 14 of anils thread 'showcase your audio video set up'. I will post some pics of the Accuphase amplifier soon enough and at that time i will make sure that i get a good enough shot of the rack too.

 

[Asit]

Hi dinyaar,
I have no idea where to get such spikes made here or buy them. What do you think about the other idea put forward by my carpenter, namely that of metal additions to the leg, but something that has vertically two sections separated by some rubber, so that the level is adjusted. He was also mentioning something for the legs where you can screw adjust the leveling like my Dual CS5000 TT legs. I did not pay much attention to this idea by him, is it also something worth exploring?

PS: I see that your corner pillars are much thicker than mine. But my carpenter was planning on some added support from the two sides to hold the shelves and the weights. So from the sides the shelves would look 2" inches thick because of this added support while the shelves are actually just 1" thick and would look 1" thick from the front.

 

[dinyaar]

Asit,
I have no clue on availability of such spikes/cones in Cal but here in bbay i have even seen similar in our hardware/ furniture accessories stores. I got it made which should not be a problem for you too. Basically go to the metal market and then a welder/cutter will do the needfull.
What ur carpenter is suggesting too might work. I agree that the floor surface may not be 100 % flat and hence the rubber can compensate but all u have to assert to him is that the rack MUST be absolutely planted and cannot sway/rock at all.
Yes my vertical sections are thick. Actually i went and bought a Teak Wood door from timber mart for about 2K if i remember correctly. Then i went and borrowed a powered wood cutting/shaping tool from a cousin who makes office furniture as a business and built this over a week. I was happy with the result.
Incidently i am once again going to make a rack sometime in May/June for myself. This time i intend to make it an A/V rack with storage for my cds. The reason for this is that i am shifting my music set up to another room and have to accomodate the existing TV/DVD/SET TOP BOX too. I will make it on similar priniples but the width will be 4 ft and the height of the rack will only be about 2 ft. The additional two peices of furniture ( on either side of the unit for cds) will not to attached to this unit at all but will share similar aesthetics. I even went and saw some wood but was quoted 15K and hence did not buy on the spot:indifferent14: Basically i love this kind of DIY and i have lots of pics/info on good AV furniture and i try making it the best i can.

Since we are on this topic i must mention my old friend Jim Marker once again. He has a super unit(if i can call it that)
Basically he has got made large bricks of solid wood. They are rectangular and vary in height. In old homes u had beams of teak wood and these are used to make the bricks. They are beautifully finished/polished. He just puts them on the floor in all four corners plus in the centre as additional supports and puts thick (2 inch thick) acrylic sheets and then adds more bricks and another acrylic sheet. The unit is 12 feet wide, 2 feet high and 2 feet deep. He uses cork/rubber as absorbers and this unit looks lovely and takes the load of 8 heavy amps, cdps,DAC, tapedecks, Preamp, AVR, DVD player. Initailly i though the acrylic would look cheap but when i saw the sheets they looked nice. He prefers the use of acrylic to glass.

Rgds

Rgds

 

[suri]

Will springs not add to more vibrations, rather than dampening them? The springs will get lot of shaking at low frequency.

regards
Anant

Hi Ananth,
have a look at this article - it cautions against using solid pucks and cones for protecting audio equipment from degrading incidental vibrational energy

the article follows- (and a comment from me at the end)

Extreme Performance Solutions

Intro

With more than 15 years of experience in optimizing high end audio reference systems, we have developed and designed an audio support system that is not merely a carrier or holder of equipment, but rather an important component in the system.

By implementing highly efficient isolation and resonance control system, we allow the audio system to unhindered reproduce all the emotional and expressional qualities of the music, combined, this makes listening a truly High-End experience.

Nowadays, most audiophiles are aware of the supporting materials influence (and the coupling to it) on the musical reproduction. Reason for that is the resonance response that all gear such as amplifiers, CD players as well as D/A converters are permitted to generate, causing coloration and masking of the musical reproduction in the frequency spectrum where the material and the coupling resonance appear.

Many are those who have tried some form of rubber puck or a cone, just to discover that no major improvement occurs pertaining to low level information, improved soundstage, increased separation of instruments, more detailed overtone spectrum or a better transient response. All that happens is a tonal shift, with accentuation of a specific frequency area.[/B]
[/U]
This might affect the tonal balance of the system, and in some situations it might be beneficial, however our view on high end audio is that two wrongs do not make a right. Our belief is that only by offering optimal working environment without a tone or signature of its own, can we compose a musical system, that allows us to hear what is there - no more no less, for better or worse.

Q: What are the prerequisites for effective isolation and for accomplishing unadulterated musical reproduction within the audible range?

A: The resonance frequency of the isolator is of utmost importance, since it determines when the isolation actually becomes effective. The audio isolator should have a resonance frequency bellow 5 Hz. This will assure an effective isolation, avoiding tonal highlighting, even at the lowest audio frequencies. Unlike most isolation devices, our technology will produce a repeatable and predictable improvement irrespective of working environment.

As an example, the resonance frequency of a loaded rubber puck falls into the most critical area of the bass, resulting in all the frequencies below going unhindered through the puck, besides when the frequency of the vibration coincides with the natural resonance frequency of the puck, the modal activity is amplified. This unavoidably leads to a darkened and veiled reproduction.

Regarding cones, we would not even like to talk about functioning isolation what so ever.

It is rather a question of vibration transmitting. It is not a coincidence that this type of technique does not exist as vibration isolator in the industry (see the vibration analysis of one of the leading high tech cone done by an independent company).

Naturally, a firm and solid cone cannot reduce the bending, twisting and flexing motion (vibration) forced upon it by the foundation, rather it will unavoidably transmit the motion. The foundation of the cone, its placement, choice of material determines what resonance signature will be transmitted, thus coloring the reproduction. Since most of the cones are made of hard material, with a high resonance frequency signature (basically with no isolation) they will cause the apparatus to highlight the upper frequencies.

What has been accomplished is not a better working environment for the apparatus, but rather just different, resulting in tuning the added resonance to a higher frequency with its corresponding resonance response.

What is then an isolator? As the name implies, it is a device that prevents one object from affecting another. With a Solid Tech isolation-system, one of the objects is allowed to vibrate without transmitting the energy of that vibration to the other object.

What are the demands on an isolator to accomplish above mentioned criterias?

You dont need a PhD degree in physics to realise that a firm and solid body has no option but to transmit the bending, twisting and flexing motions (vibrations) to the isolated object. Since the vibrations and resonances have undesirable quality of acting in all planes, there is a need for a freedom of movement in all planes between the two objects in order for to accomplish effective isolation. By using spring and O-ring suspension, with high degree of freedom of movement (with low resonance frequency and transmitting characteristics) in all planes, we effectively avoid the bending, twisting and flexing motions (vibrations) to be transmitted to the system.

One of the fundamental rules of physics is that energy cannot be destroyed, but that it rather transforms into another form. The energy, (the movement) is transformed into heat by the extracting and contracting spring a harmless energy form for the audio system.

In order to be able to accomplish this in an effective manner, especially with a wide load span, all our isolation systems consist of adaptable amount of O-rings and springs a necessity for optimal isolation at various weight loads.

It should be mentioned that no isolation system in the world ever will be 100% effective.Even if only one of our isolation systems offer great improvements, the Solid Tech rack system facilitates implementation of multiple isolation stages, in order to achieve close to 100% isolation.

Like some other audio support manufacturers, we could of course fill this space with more or less suspicious theories and claims. However we do not need to hide behind smoke screens, but rather with pride we would like to show you a complete analysis performed by an independent company ( Jor AB Hem - JoR AB).

This thorough analysis is performed with the most degrading low frequencies that a rack system can be exposed for, and the comparing measurements are done on the foundation (the floor) and the rack.

Nothing has been left to the chance, nor has anything been swept under the rug. The analysis comprise of measurements in all planes (x, y, and z).

Please note that we do not hesitate to show the performance of the isolation system, even at the resonance frequency of the floor, the frequency where the vibration amplitude is at its highest.

The question remains; why the majority of the serious audio support manufacturers do not show thorough vibration analysis performed by independent companies who could attest their clamed performance?

This is generally mandatory within the isolation industry, and a necessity in order to enable a correct choice of isolator for a specific application.

The sad truth is that the claimed performance nowhere near lives up to the measurements.

We are offering an opportunity and space for other serious audio support manufacturers to contact us for adding a link to their vibration analysis.

Fixed & Suspended shelf

The equally safe as ingenious and highly effective Radius isolation device for the shelves is easily integrated into the corner pillar. Assembly of the device is simple, fast and does not require any tools.

Adapting and level adjustment for various weights (as well as unevenly distributed weight) can be easily accomplished at the point of assembly, by increasing or decreasing the amount of springs. If later on, there is a change in equipment used, just add or subtract amount of springs no tools required.

The suspension kit for top or extension shelves contain all required parts needed for the isolation of the shelf plane. By using appropriate number of the 12 included springs, one can accomplish highly effective isolation for weights ranging 5-20 kg (11-44 lb).

The springs are made of high-grade SS1774-04 steel, an industrial quality chosen for its superior reliability and non fatigue characteristics. Naturally, one can increase amount of springs to isolate weights up to 60 kg (132 lb), which is the maximum recommended shelf load.

Radius Base Corner pillar + Disc of Silence

The corner legs of Rack of Silence and Radius can be equipped with permanently mounted Discs of Silence. We consider this to be the optimal solution for Mono amplifier stands. This is a highly cost effective isolation that benefits the entire system, provided one can accept a certain amount of lateral movement. We highly recommend this solution since it reduces the floor borne resonances by more than 90% before it reaches the rack.

This is recommended for rack systems with a maximal height of 600mm ( 24) and with total weight of maximum 90kg (200lb). The center of gravity should be bellow the mid section of the rack. We only recommend this setup for dedicated listening rooms, and environments without small children and pet animals.

Radius Solo Suspended Ext. Shelf.

Extension shelves as well as top shelf can be equipped with suspension. This ingenious suspension can effectively isolate gear weighing between 5-60kg (11-132pounds) and even handle gear with uneven weight distribution, by simply adding or subtracting springs in the corners. The distance between the corner-pillars is 520mm ( 20,5 inches).

Radius Solo & 6 shelves 4 suspended

This design graphically shows how the structural rigidity of the rack can be maintained despite use of 4 suspended shelves. Use of multiple suspended shelves demand strategically placed fixed shelves in order to assure rigidity. As seen on the image, the first shelf from the bottom is fixed, followed by two suspended shelves. Next follows a fixed shelf that assures rigidity. After this shelf, there is rigidity for another two suspended shelves. Despite use of our longest leg kit (319mm) between the first and the second shelf, the total height does not exceed 1120mm (44 inches).

This combination offers effective isolation against ground borne vibrations and resonances, simultaneously isolating the individual components from affecting each other, working with the components to bring the best out in them and in their relationship to one another as a system.

This combination consists of following components, from bottom to top:

4 base corner pillars 65,5mm with included spikes (delivered in pairs)
1 Solo base & extension shelf
4 Corner pillars 65,5 mm (delivered in pairs)
1 Suspension-kit for ext. shelf
1 Solo base & extension shelf
4 Corner pillars 319mm (delivered in pairs)
1 Suspension-kit for ext. shelf
1 Solo base & extension shelf
4 Corner pillars 234.5mm long (delivered in pairs)
1 Solo base & extension shelf
4 Corner pillars 65,5 mm (delivered in pairs)
1 Suspension-kit for ext. shelf
1 Solo base & extension shelf
4 Corner pillars 150mm long (delivered in pairs)
1 Suspension-kit for top shelf
1 Solo top shelf



Rack of Silence Isolation system



The Rack of Silence Basic shelf is also available prepared for suspension. The suspension kit is an excellent isolation system, permitting free movement in all planes.

Free movement in all planes is a prerequisite for achieving extremely effective isolation from bending, twisting and flexing forces that the ground borne vibrations impose on the corner pillars. Optimal level adjustment is easily achieved, since the spring holders are infinitely adjustable along the corner pillars.

The suspension kit contains all parts for isolation of one shelf. There are two versions available that cover weights between 5-15kg (11-33 lb) respectively 15-40kg (33-88 lb).

The difference between them is the thread diameter of the springs (1mm respectively 1,2mm)

Optimal isolation is achieved by choosing the correct weight class, and by implementing the amount of springs in relation to the load.

For safety precautions, the kit is delivered with a security screw that is mounted in the corner pillar groove, directly bellow the suspended shelf. Should the shelf for any reason be accidentally overloaded, the security screw will prevent the spring to be extracted beyond its recommended maximum extracted length. .

RoS Designers Reference 3 shelves Black

This setup includes all isolation systems combined. The Disc of Silence mounted on the corner pillars isolates the Rack of Silence from ground propagated vibrations and resonances. The suspended shelfs combined with Feet of Silence and Disc of Silence isolates the individual apparatus from each other, and takes care of the eventual remaining resonances. Remember that no isolation system in the world is 100% effective, but with a combination of various isolation systems used in this setup, it is very close to total isolation.



Solid Tech 2002 Produced by Audioprophile


Ananth, I have made many audio racks over the years, have bought some expensive isolation stands. they have included solid wood and acrylic shelves

of all those, this seems to work the best.

regards
suri

 

[gobble]

For the bottom i had "SOLID STEEL CONES" made which are welded onto a 4 X 2 steel plate (same size of my vertical supports) and the plate is screwed onto the base of the vertical sections. This is easily done and i just blunted the points a bit to preserve the marble floor.

An alternative is to weld a steel ball bearing at the tip.

Regards

 

[venkatcr]

Asit:

For what it is worth, I am showing below an image of the rack I got a while ago. I apologise for the cardboard sheet on the top. Just protecting my rack from scratches.

On the left the rack has a base that is 2 inches wide and 20 inches deep. On the right side, the rack has a base that is 1 inch wide and again 20 inches deep. There are small extensions on the right outside the rack to make another rack with a mirror image. When needed that will be kept on the right and I will be able to stack a total of 8 units including the top.

I am using thin rubber sheets of 6 inches length on all four corners to compensate for unevenness of the floor, so that the rack sits steady. This seems to work for me.

The shelves themselves have small groves on both sides and slide on a shelf holder on the rack. This way I can add and subtract shelves as and when needed. Each shelf can take up to 25kgs of weight.

Cheers

 

[Asit]

Venkat, that's a great rack you have there. Looking at it, I have only one word: SOLID. Yes, it gives me that impression. I want to have something similar (dinyaar has something similar too). The only difference with yours would be that my rack would be open on all 4 sides.

Just to be absolutely sure, please go through my post again (where I have detailed my plan) and see if you see anything objectionable there.

I would say you remove that cardboard sheet from the top. Let it have some scratches. It would give that lived-in look . You can get it lightly polished once in a few years (That's what I do. We cannot use things so carefully because the house is left to three maids the whole day when we are at work.).

 

[venkatcr]

Asit,

Yes I will remove the cardboard. I know it looks cheapo.

I did re-read your post. The only point I would like to make is this. For the shelves give solid support an all sides. I would run beams (1.50 or even 1.75 square) on all fours sides for each shelve solidly joined to the corner legs through a bevel or dovetail joints. This will give you added strength to the whole frame. The shelves themselves, after cutting the four corners for the corner legs, can just be placed on each shelf frame.

Though the designer and the carpenter told me each shelf can hold 30 kg, I had nightmares of my amp falling on the DVD Player and destroying both. So one night I got up at 0300 hours and moved the amp to the bottom shelf. Now I am feeling much better.

Cheers

 

[Asit]

For the shelves give solid support an all sides. I would run beams (1.50 or even 1.75 square) on all fours sides for each shelve solidly joint to the corner legs through a bevel or dovetail joint. This will give you added strength to the whole frame. The shelves themselves, after cutting the four corners for the corner legs, can just be placed on each shelf frame.

Venkat, thanks, this is exactly what will be done. On my way from work I saw the carpenter this evening to give him some money to buy the wood and he explained it all to me. Except the front side, this solid supporting would be done on the other three sides. I do not want to do the front side, because that way I will lose some inches on each shelf height, although I have enough, I feel. Let's see, I will see him again around noon tomorrow to inspect the wood, I can discuss this further with him. But instead of just placing the shelf on these frames, I want them screwed into the frames for better rigidity.

He even said that once done if I feel it's not stable enough he would put in a 5th leg all the way from top to bottom right down the middle of the backside. But he thinks that wouldn't be necessary. I would not also like that because that would restrict the cabling access. On second thought, may be not, because I see so many three-legged hifi racks and the 3rd leg is right through the middle of the back side.

 

[dinyaar]

Hi guys,
Asit, this is the rack that i was referring to and alongside are the granite speaker stands.
Simple to make, sturdy and cheap. It was made with smaller components in mind and hence the distance between the shelves was only 8" and hence i have cut off the top of the rack to let the amp run cool. Have got a black wire mesh affixed in place of the top shelf as some sort of protection.

Rgds

 

[Asit]

That looks also very sturdy and solid, although a little small for me, because I have a few more components like my Kenwood graphic equalizer and the Dual TT. I cannot believe your carpentry skill. Looks very well finished and elegant.

Liked your speaker stands too. Are they also DIY? I will also have something made for my speakers in future. My speakers are quite large (classified as large bookshelf/ floorstanders in the user manual) and heavy. I need something much lower and much much heavier. At the moment they are placed in our huge cabinet (WxHxD=10 feet x 5 feet x 2 feet) mostly made of teak wood. So solidity and weight of the base is not the problem, however there is no space at all around them, although I know that my speakers do not actually need a lot of space around.

 

[dinyaar]

Hi Asit,
Well the carpentry skills is thanks to power tools!!!!!!! Yes the rack is decent but finish is average. Anyway it works fine for now.

No the stands cant be really called my DIY. I went to my site (apart from me the rest of my family are builders) and got my mason to make it to my specifications. It was very simple and is more than sturdy. It did not cost me anything but can be made for under 4K(materials & Labour)

Rgds