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Jean Hiraga ( Super - 30 ) Class A - New Enclosure, A Bulky Bank and little modified PCB

sadik

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#1
There is already my thread on this amplifier but this time i am improving it hence i am starting a new thread. As a First Post of this thread i will add some Photos of my new DIY enclosure ( A little Teaser )

Enclosure Dimensions (Complete Aluminum)
Outside : 515 mm Width x 308 mm Deep x 240 mm Height
Inside : 350 mm Width x 290 mm Deep x 234 mm Height
Face Plate Dimension : 515 mm Width x 250 mm Height x 12 mm thick

Photo of a bottom plate 4 mm thick aluminum, cut on laser cnc except the drill holes.


Top plate 2 mm thick aluminum, cut on laser cnc except the drill holes.


Semi assembled top and bottom plate with heat sinks.


Back plate 6 mm thick aluminum, cut on laser cnc except the drill holes.










Face plate 12 mm thick aluminum, machined on manual milling.






Complete rough assembly


The Gap which is seen between the face plate and rest enclosure will not be there once the screws are fitted in the middle of face plate.


Finishing is yet to be done. This Enclosure had made a big hole on my pocket and the Power bank has made it even wider...... lol

More is yet to come as the progress goes on.

Sadik
 
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tuff

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#2
Looking good. You are one mean leanDIY machine. Keep it up.
 

arunkvivek

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Lovely! You have a special finesse on the finishes, Sadik! I am looking forward to how you etch your ASB signature..(probably laser etch your kids' face like Sach logo?)
 

sadik

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Looking good. You are one mean leanDIY machine. Keep it up.
Thank You Tuff, I am trying my best for this Project, I am in no hurry to complete the project with any kind of compromise.

Lovely! You have a special finesse on the finishes, Sadik! I am looking forward to how you etch your ASB signature..(probably laser etch your kids' face like Sach logo?)
It will be very simple no fancy or overloaded fonts on face plates.

Wow that's an amazing cut. Really clean. Looking forward to seeing how it all comes together.

MaSh
This will be one on my best project so far.
 

surfatwork

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Very nice, Sadik. Looking forward to more work in progress posts and pics.
Also check out water jet cutting

Is the face plate going to be mirror or brushed finish?
 

sadik

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Very nice, Sadik. Looking forward to more work in progress posts and pics.
Also check out water jet cutting

Is the face plate going to be mirror or brushed finish?
Water jet was more costly hence i went for laser cut. the finish will be brush finish. the face plate will be first sanded to remove all the light markings of the cuts and then it will be shot blasted. After this process it will be Anodized

Sadik
 

manniraj

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#8
Looks awesome sadik, a true DIY hats off :)

Keep the front panel in silver itself rather than anodizing in black, it will look much better after sand blasting ;)
 

sadik

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Looks awesome sadik, a true DIY hats off :)

Keep the front panel in silver itself rather than anodizing in black, it will look much better after sand blasting ;)
Heat Sinks will be silver rest all black, as i have to engrave the text on front and back panels. (laser engrave), laser engraving is a process which removes the anodized portion as per the text. Hence for a visible text the Anodizing should be black.
 
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jls001

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#12
Heat Sinks will be silver rest all black, as i have to engrave the text on front and back panels. (laser engrave), laser engraving is a process which removes the anodized portion as per the text. Hence for a visible text the Anodizing should be black.
There are other dye colours too, including bright coloured ones (assuming you like brighter colours).
 

sadik

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Die Anodizing is not good. It will leave its colour when it comes in contact with water. I have experienced this problem.
 

surfatwork

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I thought it is possible to use clear chemical agents to first coat bare aluminum and then laser engrave so it leaves a black mark? Have only my heard of it, haven't tried.
I have had good success transferring laser prints onto bare aluminum (the iron on method). Couple of pics of my DIY amp below (bit of finishing left to complete, so please excuse any rough edges)




I also feel that silver panels will look great - if I were you, i would keep the heatsink black and the rest silver. But that's my preference :)
 
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sadik

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Very Nice Built. Is the top cover chrome plated? Tone transfer is good option but i may not get sharp edges while doing so. Hence i will stick to my plan at present, if i get another good option then later may shift over to it.
 

surfatwork

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Top is stainless steel sheet. Front/back Panels are aluminum, sanded down by hand for the brushed effect. Initial rough sanding with flap wheel on hand grinder, then 150grit sand paper by hand to get the basic effect, then few strokes with 400grit and final brush with scotch Brite pad to smooth it out. Clear acrylic Coat on top.
 

sadik

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Today's update.

I had sanded the front panel, drilling and tapping done. Now fitted the Front panel properly with screws. As i had mentioned in my earlier post the gap in middle will not be visible once the screwing is done. below are the photos of today's work.

Front Panel Sanding and screwing those allen bolts are M4x15 CSK Stainless Steel i will change them to M4 x 25mm because the Front panel itself is 12 mm thick


Close up of sanding.


The middle gap is no more after screwing the Front Plate.






Sadik
 

sadik

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Today's Update.

Drilling and tapping of Heat Sinks where PCB and Transistors are to be mounted. For 3mm tapping use drill size 2.5 mm. I have this small pillar drill machine to drill the holes straight. With Hand drill it is not possible to get straight holes.


The TAP used is M3


Its good to use some lubricant while drilling and tapping work done on aluminum. I am using this Oil (used as lubricant in sewing machine) as a lubricant. This will prevent aluminum from getting stuck on drill bit or the tap.


Below are the results of perfectly done marking and drilled holes. (Check twice cut once)


Regards,
Sadik Bhatkar
 

surfatwork

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For tapping, which number tap do you use? 1, 2 or 3?
I find it difficult to tap 3mm properly, so any tips would be greatly helpful. I do all that you say above (drill press, lubricant) and also use a (Diy) tapping block. Success rate still hovers at only about 50%.
 
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