Jean Hiraga ( Super - 30 ) Class A - New Enclosure, A Bulky Bank and little modified PCB

[Ravindra Desai]

Sadik,

You are one heck of an artist!
Or should I call you a heck of a designer?
Ok, I'll call you both: One heck of an artist and a designer!

You are lucky to be able to do what you like, and that does not happen very often, and it WILL also pay back, sooner or later.

Keep up the good work, Sir!!

Regards,

Ravindra.

 

[sadik]

For tapping, which number tap do you use? 1, 2 or 3?
I find it difficult to tap 3mm properly, so any tips would be greatly helpful. I do all that you say above (drill press, lubricant) and also use a (Diy) tapping block. Success rate still hovers at only about 50%.

Just follow the steps.
1. Proper Marking of Holes. Double check the dimensions.
2. Use punching tool prior to drilling. Check the center to center dimensions again after punching. Below is the image of punching tool.

3. Cross Check the accuracy by placing the PCB on the punched marks and check all the punches are in center of pcb mounting holes.
4. For any taping use the recommended size of drill bit. You can check the chart of drill & taps on google. For 3mm tapping use 2.5 mm drill bit.
5. During drilling use lubricant, Aluminum is sticky metal it will stick on drill bit if lubricant is not use. (kerosene or oil can be used as lubricant), if not used aluminum will stick on bit resulting in breaking of bit. (Same applicable for taping)

Taping Procedure:
There are 3 Nos of tap in each set. 1,2, & 3. and all taps should be used for each hole. First use tap 1 it will align with the hole ( Check the shapes of tap where i have done arrow marking in the below image. Then tap 2 & final tap 3. (lubricant must for all 3 passes). While tapping remember to rotate the tap in clockwise & anticlockwise direction (2 storks clockwise, 1/2 strok anticlockwise) When tap reaches half of its size completely remove the tap out from the hole clean it with toothbrush and proceed further with the same hole until you have achieved the desired depth. As aluminum is soft material i use tap 1 first then directly tap 3 for final.

Note : For drilling bigger holes than 5 mm use small drill ( say for 6 mm hole use 3 mm drill bit for first hole then use 6 mm drill bit for final).

Sadik Bhatkar

Sadik,

You are one heck of an artist!
Or should I call you a heck of a designer?
Ok, I'll call you both: One heck of an artist and a designer!

You are lucky to be able to do what you like, and that does not happen very often, and it WILL also pay back, sooner or later.

Keep up the good work, Sir!!

Regards,

Ravindra.

Thank you Sir. I too liked your work very much. You are also good contributor to our DIY community. Keep on sharing your work too. Lets expand our DIY culture all over India.

Sadik Bhatkar

 

[surfatwork]

Thanks Sadik. Much appreciated. I do do the above, with one difference only for 3mm. Instead of tap 1 + tap 3, I use just tap 2 (only for 3mm). Use all 3 for larger dia taps and those come out fine. Maybe that is where I am going wrong. Will try as above (1+3).
Hopefully this detail instruction will be of use to others too.

 

[jls001]

I also had a tough time tapping 3 mm threads on aluminium heat sink. Now only tap number 3 from the box of three taps has survived

 

[sadik]

I forgot to mention one thing. for light weight Jobs do remember to clamp it properly before drilling or taping. The TAP is very hard and very brittle too, hence one sholud take care while taping. if applied more pressure the tap will easily break, hence proper drill bit for holes and lubricant is necessary.

Sadik Bhatkar

I also had a tough time tapping 3 mm threads on aluminium heat sink. Now only tap number 3 from the box of three taps has survived

I would recommend you to get a new set of TAP, If you are using Tap-3 directly on holes, it will require more pressure and if anything goes wrong it will also easily break.

Sadik Bhatkar

 

[surfatwork]

I would recommend you to get a new set of TAP, If you are using Tap-3 directly on holes, it will require more pressure and if anything goes wrong it will also easily break.

Sadik Bhatkar

Yes, discovered that

 

[jls001]

I would recommend you to get a new set of TAP, If you are using Tap-3 directly on holes, it will require more pressure and if anything goes wrong it will also easily break.

Sadik Bhatkar

You are right. Tap #3 is essentially useless without 1 and 2.

 

[keith_correa]

Use a cutting fluid or make an emulsion of oil and water with a few drops of liquid detergent/soap. Way back, in another life, we used this. Worked wonderfully! Oil was never used.

 

[sadik]

Use a cutting fluid or make an emulsion of oil and water with a few drops of liquid detergent/soap. Way back, in another life, we used this. Worked wonderfully! Oil was never used.

For Aluminum Kerosene is the best by my practical experience. You can use oil too, I am fine with using Oil.

 

[Sumanta]

Uffff....my eyes are drooling Sadik.

 

[sathish.m.be04]

Today's Update.

Drilling and tapping of Heat Sinks where PCB and Transistors are to be mounted. For 3mm tapping use drill size 2.5 mm. I have this small pillar drill machine to drill the holes straight. With Hand drill it is not possible to get straight holes.

The TAP used is M3

Its good to use some lubricant while drilling and tapping work done on aluminum. I am using this Oil (used as lubricant in sewing machine) as a lubricant. This will prevent aluminum from getting stuck on drill bit or the tap.

Below are the results of perfectly done marking and drilled holes. (Check twice cut once)

Regards,
Sadik Bhatkar

Sadik, the photographs are awesome giving us very clear details... wow...

I am still working on my requirements i will call u in a week.

 

[Professori]

Keep up the great work...your artistry is second to none...

Do share some details about the PCB from ASB Audio. Still available? I would be interested in a set.

Waiting to see the finished work. The very best to your efforts!

--UKP

Today's Update.
Below are the results of perfectly done marking and drilled holes. (Check twice cut once)

Regards,
Sadik Bhatkar

 

[sadik]

Keep up the great work...your artistry is second to none...

Do share some details about the PCB from ASB Audio. Still available? I would be interested in a set.

Waiting to see the finished work. The very best to your efforts!

--UKP

Thank You Sir, The Testing is yet to be done on new PCB's. Will keep you updated.

Today's Update.

Power Supply Bank [C-R-C]. The caps are Junzl Make. I have used them in my earlier projects and they are doing their job very well. They are also used in PA Amplifiers. For per channel 22000uf/63V x 20 Nos. Total Capacitance 4,40,000 uf for per channel.

Below are the Photos.

Sadik Bhatkar

 

[manniraj]

Good going Sadik, thats a lot of capacitance

By the way where did you procure those caps?

What is the cost and looks like they are Chinese caps, how about the quality as fakes will be available I think?

 

[sadik]

Good going Sadik, thats a lot of capacitance

By the way where did you procure those caps?

From Local Market at my place.

Yes They are Chinese but are very good Caps. Many people use them here in their P A Amplifiers. Their built quality is also good. I got them for Rs. 375/- Each. I have got them through a well known dealer here so possibility of Fake is negligible.

I have weighted the Power Supply Module and each module weight is 2.3 Kg

Sadik

 

[manniraj]

Hmm at that price I think you can get the United Chemi-Con or Cornier Dubilier ones but at a lower voltage rating of 35-50v on in.element14.com. I thought if its Chinese ones they should be costing lesser price. As I am also looking at getting around 8 of the 22000uf caps with minimum 35v rated which is more than sufficient for 20W class A amplifier build.

http://in.element14.com/w/c/passive...lectrolytic-capacitors/prl/results?st=22000uf

 

[Professori]

Sadik, please share some details about your new pcb.
Are they available now?
I am interested in getting a pair for testing.

 

[sadik]

Today's Update

Anodizing Done. Below are some Photos.

I may need to re-anodize the Face & top plate because it is not upto my quality. After this the laser engraving work is pending.

Sadik Bhatkar

 

[Professori]

Sadik ought to have been in the National Institute of Design...
;-)

 

[surfatwork]

I got samwha 15000uf, 50v for Rs.150 in kochi. Working fine