hemanth.hg
Active Member
I would like to buy a single enclosure.
Mauro's "Myreference Rev.C" building queries and guide.
- Thread starter Hiten
- Start date
stereorules
Active Member
I understand captain. So another solution would be ~ major number of enclosure made would be fully finished and few numbers would have plain rear panel. Best of both the world
You beat me to it...Was just about to suggest the same
I understand captain. So another solution would be ~ major number of enclosure made would be fully finished and few numbers would have plain rear panel. Best of both the world
You beat me to it...Was just about to suggest the same
That is a good idea.
Round holes and threading for 3mm holes with 0.5 pitch are easy enough, for about 7 to 10 rupees per hole. This is from practical experience I had recently.
It is the square or rectangular holes that would need to be pre-cut for things like IEC socket.
A standard enclosure could come with a minimalist rear panel - one pair of holes for RCA in and one for RCA/speaker-terminal out at a slight distance from each other to accommodate further drilling in between, and at a "safe" distance from the IEC socket hole. Another 12mm hole for a fuse holder next to the IEC socket is also always required.
The front panel could contain 3 9.8mm holes - two for volume + selector and one for a SPDT/DPDT switch as a standard. Dimension may differ for the switch. Add an additional 3 to 5mm hole for a 3mm led above or nearby the switch hole (need to check led holder dimensions).
Cheers
It is the square or rectangular holes that would need to be pre-cut for things like IEC socket.
A standard enclosure could come with a minimalist rear panel - one pair of holes for RCA in and one for RCA/speaker-terminal out at a slight distance from each other to accommodate further drilling in between, and at a "safe" distance from the IEC socket hole. Another 12mm hole for a fuse holder next to the IEC socket is also always required.
The front panel could contain 3 9.8mm holes - two for volume + selector and one for a SPDT/DPDT switch as a standard. Dimension may differ for the switch. Add an additional 3 to 5mm hole for a 3mm led above or nearby the switch hole (need to check led holder dimensions).
Cheers
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keith_correa
Well-Known Member
I think the myRef enclosure GB/discussion warrants a separate thread. Although I understand that the casing is also part of the build, I think we should not dilute this thread with casing posts. What do you guys think?
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i agree with keith
so heres a new thread
http://www.hifivision.com/diy/12016-amp-enclosures-chasis-cabinets.html#post165924
so heres a new thread
http://www.hifivision.com/diy/12016-amp-enclosures-chasis-cabinets.html#post165924
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There's no problem as long as it's an LM3886TF chip-amp, or an LM3886T with an insulating spacer. Grounding the heatsink is fine as long as there's no circuit node in contact with it.
linux
why can the chip not be mounted in this fashion
i dont know much about electronics but this kind of mounting seems to allow a bt of flexibility and tolerence.
seems as if the chip can adjust to the tapped hole in the heat sink
if yes this solves many problems in chasis build
Also what is that spacer kind of packing between the black thing ( im assuing the chip) and the sink?
why can the chip not be mounted in this fashion
i dont know much about electronics but this kind of mounting seems to allow a bt of flexibility and tolerence.
seems as if the chip can adjust to the tapped hole in the heat sink
if yes this solves many problems in chasis build
Also what is that spacer kind of packing between the black thing ( im assuing the chip) and the sink?
From the pic, it seems that those are power BJTs in a TO-247 or similar package. There it's possible to bend the leads in several ways (there are only 3 leads, and they're usually made of plated copper, which is easy to bend) and that allows flexibility in mounting.
The LM3886, on the other hand, has preformed leads which may break if bent excessively. It has a small amount of play, but it has to be mounted upright because that's the only way the leads will go into the PCB.
The spacer material between the LM3886TF and the heatsink is optional, but it seems to be some kind of white silicone thermal-interface material in the pic posted by Quad. One could use the gray insulating material found in SMPSes also.
Yes, you can use ganged log pots if you can get them. Alps is probably the best, but may be expensive and/or difficult to find. If you can't find logarithmic, linear will be fine.
Elna India has good stepped relays. for my next project, I would get the Vishay/Dale resistors in bulk and assemble them on my own own.
Cheers
This is from the older DIYaudio group buy (~2008), judging by the components and green solder-mask. The side-plates *are* the heatsink, just like the F5 cabinet posted by Quad, except that they don't have horizontal fins. This is entirely practical, because the LM3886 doesn't actually dissipate much heat in operation at normal volumes.
In addition, the weight & cost would also be less.
keith_correa
Well-Known Member
What are stepped relays? What would you assemble with the Vishay-Dale resistors?
I meant I would build my own stepped attenuator rather than spend $150+ on an audiophile one going forward .... a rotary switch sorry
Cheers
Something similar to the old fan controllers we used to have with 1 for slowest speed and 5 for fastest speed albeit a more refined one.
hyeah: Get the Wharfedale EVO 4.2 3-Way Standmount Speakers at a Special Offer Price.
